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Mike, I have 2 I'm not an expert [Donny is] but I think they all come with dump beds. I've towed the jeep [before new gas tank] around the dirt road going to the dock but when it got on the steep gravel drive the wheels spun. It has the torque just not the weight. I'm speaking of the four X six is what the name is Remember this is a REAL old one. I once filled the bed up with gravel and the hydraulics would lift it BUT it started to push a whole thru the bottom of the bed. A load of dirt/firewood is fine but the gravel was too much So I guess the answer is You could probably haul cars around on level dry land but not mud When not towing it will go anywhere BUT when in 4 wheel drive its a little harder to turn because it wants to push you forward I have no idea what a new one cost or even if they still make that model. If it were me and try to find a used one edit. I looked on line and you can get a new one for a little over 12 K which is twice what i paid for my 2 used ones https://www.google.com/search?q=six+...id:lE2Wnt5VQV4
Actually Jamesbo that's what I meant, a used one, like the one we rode in at the lake that one time. There's a guy on the airport that has one like that and he uses it like a golf cart. Better than driving his pickup all over the airport.
I'll have to start watching ads and see what they are like.
Here are those aforementioned pics of Dad's other modes of transportation. The Honda is a late 60's pic. My oldest sister. I didn't realize until now that this was a Honda. My older sisters. Notice the e-brake under the driver's side front tire. Dad's 78 3-on-the-tree Chevy. 78 Chevy with the horse trailer that he completely restored. Was a rusty pile before.
Left work around 2. The retriever never did start working. Plant Maintenance said they needed a part that would take a couple days to get. After 1:00 break, some guys went into the tire room and started rolling tires out to the robots. I suggested that in the morning because we'd done it before, but I guess it had to be someone else's idea to be a good one. That's what we're going to do tomorrow as well.
Nice pictures Jeff. I like that silver Chevy. What's the tractor behind the red Chevy?
Beautiful here. The thing in the car said 70 but I don't think it was warm. Sunny and blue sky, perfect.
Jeff - That looks like a Honda CL-72 (250). Can't say what year - sometime in the early 1960s. It was my first motorcycle (I think I bought it used 1967 or 1968). I think mine was a 1964.
I took advantage of the sunny, 60° day to get back out under the 4-4-2 again. I jacked the rear of the car up with both wheels off the ground by a couple of inches to give myself easier access to the area around the mufflers, and to be able to rotate the tires by hand with the tranny in neutral. I thought getting the entire rear end jacked up would be an easy task. Wrong! The heavy duty sway bar was completely in the way of just putting my large floor jack under the pumpkin and putting jackstands under the rear axle. Had to use two scissor jacks on the heavy part of the frame just in front of the rear tire to accomplish it.
Once I had it up in the air, I got underneath and yanked on the driveshaft in all directions to see if I could feel any play in it. I couldn't. Then I put the car in neutral (with wheels well chocked) and rotated the driveshaft from underneath. No real noise, but I could feel about 1/8" to 1/16" of play in the driveshaft when reversing the direction of the driveshaft from clockwise to counter-clockwise. Same when rotating the driveshaft via the tires. Is this amount of play normal when changing the rotation direction of the driveshaft?
Next I added 2 heavy duty rubber hangars to the exhaust pipe in front of the muffler. Before, the only support for the exhaust pipe after the headers were 2 heavy rubber hangars behind the rear axle.
Next I patched the tiny hole in the weld between the rear of the driver's side muffler and the exhaust pipe that goes over the rear axle. I used a JB Weld product specifically made for patching small exhaust leaks.
Finally, I checked the trunk drop-off on the driver's side. I forget now whether it was Dan or Jeff who suggested that I check them for any miscellaneous debris? Anyway, I did find some small miscellaneous parts, a small spring, and a couple of nuts and a bolt, but nothing that I would think could cause the noise I've been hearing. I could only check a small section of the passenger side because the spare tire was in the way of reaching down into the majority of the well. I didn't feel like pulling the spare to check it. I have to pull the spare in the Spring to put the vinyl trunk mats back in and I'll check it then.
That was enough fun for the day! Hope you all had a great one!
Chris - About 1/16" - 1/8" play between fwd & rev is normal.
Thanks Norm, that's positive news! At least now I think I can rule out a U-joint going bad as the culprit. I think I've done about all I can for now to find the noise until I can get it back on the road in the Spring. My 2 most knowledgeable car buddies have both volunteered to come over in the springtime to help me troubleshoot and fix it if we can find it.
Chris - I think at some point (years ago when this discussion began) you hinted the sound seemed like a thump or a clunk, rather than a rattle or a resonating sound I believe. Next time you're underneath, have a look at the distance (height) between the top of the transmission and the floor pan - the entire length from the point where the end (rear) of the transmission attaches to the cross-member forward to the point where it attaches to the engine flexplate (including that area directly below the transmission "hump" in the floor pan & bell housing area). Does it seem really, really tight? There should be adequate height. Anything get lodged between the transmission & the bottom of the floor pan? Worth having a look.
Chris - I think at some point (years ago when this discussion began) you hinted the sound seemed like a thump or a clunk, rather than a rattle or a resonating sound I believe. Next time you're underneath, have a look at the distance (height) between the top of the transmission and the floor pan - the entire length from the point where the end (rear) of the transmission attaches to the cross-member forward to the point where it attaches to the engine flexplate (including that area directly below the transmission "hump" in the floor pan & bell housing area). Does it seem really, really tight? There should be adequate height. Anything get lodged between the transmission & the bottom of the floor pan? Worth having a look.
The best way I can describe the noise is someone intermittently lightly hitting a bass drum using the foot pedal. It is a soft, low, intermittent thump. I will have the front end up in the Spring for oil/filter/lube before putting her out on the road and I'll give the tranny clearance a close look then. Thanks a bunch for the suggestion!
I think you already said you looked at the nuts/bolts of the rear shocks? You have a rear sway bar I think? Did you check attachment nuts/bolts to the lower control arms? Everything tight? Might have a look at the nuts/bolts on the rear upper control arms - tight? No sloppiness?
EDIT: It's almost impossible to determine if nuts/bolts are loose with the car on the ground, even though you should torque those items with the car on the ground. But, to determine if they're loose, the car really needs to be on jack stands to get a feel for whether they've loosened up. Again, on the ground it's really hard to tell. But, if you get it in the air and you think you've got a couple nuts/bolts loose, you can tell when it's in the air. Just be sure to torque to values with the car on the ground. Hell, just torque them all to spec while it's on the ground then you'll know they're all good.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; February 6th, 2023 at 05:52 PM.
I think you already said you looked at the nuts/bolts of the rear shocks? You have a rear sway bar I think? Did you check attachment nuts/bolts to the lower control arms? Everything tight? Might have a look at the nuts/bolts on the rear upper control arms - tight? No sloppiness?
I did check the nuts/bolts on the shocks, and on the sway bar. Checked to make sure the coil springs were seated correctly in the pockets (as best I could tell from CSM, I'm no expert). I did not check the upper/lower control arms, I'll add that to the list!
Regarding rear upper & lower controls arms at each of their attachment points. They require ample (tons) of grease. Each bolt which runs through the attachment sleeves should be soaked with grease. These attachment points are notorious for drying out and creating tell-tale little "thugs" when the frame, axle, etc. is shifting. Without sufficient grease (esp. if they're the original rubber/neoprene bushings & hardware) the bushings begin to dry-rot.
EDIT: Aftermarket modern-day replacements most generally have grease zerts to grease the bushings.
Hell, just torque them all to spec while it's on the ground then you'll know they're all good.
That's probably how I'll approach it. I'm going to need to buy or borrow a smaller torque wrench though so I can get into some tighter spots. The only one I currently own is the large breaker bar size.
That's probably how I'll approach it. I'm going to need to buy or borrow a smaller torque wrench though so I can get into some tighter spots. The only one I currently own is the large breaker bar size.
Yeah, rubber doesn't last forever and eventually dry-rots. These are the front control arm bushings I replaced. The rubber dry-rots & the metal housing can then move anywhere it pleases...and, it will.
It's not going to be the control arms unless it is ride related, as in, it does it when you hit bumps. If, on the other hand, if it is speed related, but not engine, it's rolling stock related. U joints go CLUNK when you shift from forward to reverse, or let off the gas, then hit it again.
Perhaps backing plate to drum rubbing, or a brake shoe rubbing. Recommend spinning wheels by hand in air and listening. Also, come spring, perhaps consider going for a drive, then rotating tires. If you had a flat spotted tire, the sound would move. Also, check the tread of the tires for a rock.
It's not going to be the control arms unless it is ride related, as in, it does it when you hit bumps. If, on the other hand, if it is speed related, but not engine, it's rolling stock related. U joints go CLUNK when you shift from forward to reverse, or let off the gas, then hit it again.
Perhaps backing plate to drum rubbing, or a brake shoe rubbing. Recommend spinning wheels by hand in air and listening. Also, come spring, perhaps consider going for a drive, then rotating tires. If you had a flat spotted tire, the sound would move. Also, check the tread of the tires for a rock.
John - I looked at the rear control arm bushings today and they are showing some wear, but are not severely cracked. I have never pulled the bolts and re-greased them. Since the noise is intermittent, I have not been able to isolate it to specific road conditions. With foot on the brake, going from R to N to D to N to R, absolutely no sound from the U-joints. Spun the rear wheels by hand this afternoon when I had the whole rear end off the ground, absolutely no grinding or rattle, movement was free. I will reiterate again, I seem to only hear the noise when moving, and when the engine is under light or no load (essentially coasting). I will check the tires for stones next time I'm out there. Road testing after rotating tires will have to wait until Spring. Still been debating on whether to put on the SS1's, this situation my make up my mind for me!
Last edited by Dream67Olds442; February 6th, 2023 at 07:23 PM.
It is far, far past my bedtime. I found several live feed sites & chat rooms chatting w/ others regarding the Anatolian earthquake. >4300 known dead now....some expect at least 10,000 are dead.
Well we had a new one yesterday
Opening and closing company came set up lowering device tent and chair. I rode up to help people park and at the exact time the funeral was going to start, the family called a said " the funeral directors aren't coming "( from little Rock) they said we haven't paid and we have. I placed 3 calls to the funeral home with got nothing bit crickets
So I sent the grave diggers on their way and left the grave open
I *think* that tractor was a Massey-Ferguson, but it's been so long, I don't remember. Dad wound up getting rid of that one, and we had a Ford Golden Jubilee for years afterwards. I believe it was part of the sale of the house & 20 acres when they decided to downsize and move into town.
Going on 1oclock break and things have been pretty steady all day. They got one guy running ragged getting the tires. I'm about where I'd be on a normal day anyway. My wall guy is really working hard.
I must have mentioned before that my granddad worked for International Harvester. He was some sort of foreman for Farmall Moline Works. His best friend had the same job at Farmall East Moline Works.
Another nice day out. Gonna do something outside for sure.
Jamesbo were the funeral directors bringing the body with them? Did funeral-goers already show up? You have some strange situations sometimes.
Okay gonna go get something to drink then take a break.
Jim - Sorry to hear the funeral home did that to the family, and that it's affecting you! I agree with your sentiments about the funeral home!
We got an email from out Vet's office this morning letting us know that our dogs' Vet, and the Senior partner in the practice, Dr. Bock, had passed away suddenly last Friday. The email didn't provide much info other than to say she was only survived by her husband of 55-years, no children. She was the sweetest lady, and you could just tell she loved our dogs. My wife's Mom actually used to take her dogs to her when my wife was a girl. We are just numb, she was the only Vet our dogs have ever seen, and she was such a gem!
My BIL's wife has organized a surprise luncheon at their Mexican restaurant for my BIL this Friday. The guests will be family and close friends, intended as a show of support for his upcoming medical challenges. Of course we're going, but I have mixed emotions because if I were him, I would not want a bunch of folks coming together to feel sorry for me, regardless of how well intentioned their actions were. I'm hoping it isn't depressing for him, but I think it would be for me.
Well, enough of the frickin soap opera that seems to fill my days lately. I hope you guys have a great day!
Actually, it was a Massey-Harris (likely a 30 or 33). Distinctive yellow-painted wheels, which can't be seen in the pic. The Ford he had later is actually a collectible tractor now. Probably have pics of that buried somewhere.
The 78 Chevy was a metallic silver. Definitely not a color that was seen on trucks back then.
John - I looked at the rear control arm bushings today and they are showing some wear, but are not severely cracked. I have never pulled the bolts and re-greased them. Since the noise is intermittent, I have not been able to isolate it to specific road conditions. With foot on the brake, going from R to N to D to N to R, absolutely no sound from the U-joints. Spun the rear wheels by hand this afternoon when I had the whole rear end off the ground, absolutely no grinding or rattle, movement was free. I will reiterate again, I seem to only hear the noise when moving, and when the engine is under light or no load (essentially coasting). I will check the tires for stones next time I'm out there. Road testing after rotating tires will have to wait until Spring. Still been debating on whether to put on the SS1's, this situation my make up my mind for me!
I see. Ok, I have another idea. In the spring, drive somewhere open and get the noise to occur, then put it in neutral and kill the engine while rolling at speed. If it's an exhaust noise, it should not be there anymore. If it is a rolling gear noise, it still will be there. I am under the opinion, based on your latest comment, that it is exhaust related. Also, try, when cruising, and slowing down to turn off the road, drop it into second. The engine will rev up and you will engine brake. See if the sound it makes then is a louder version of your problem noise. If so, I think you just have an exhaust artifact in that specific condition.
February 6th, 2023, 06:24 AM
