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Intermittent thunderstorms/showers majority of the day yesterday until they cleared up ~3pm. During the showers I headed out to procure SS fasteners for the fencing. I setup a work area after 3pm and cut four 2x4 horizontal runners for the fence frames as a dry-run for fitment. More intermittent showers today. I'm planning on fastening a 4x4 to the one gate which will be the attachment point(s) for the fencing at the corner column. My preference would be to use concrete/block/brick double expansion anchors but I couldn't find any. They're available on-line but I'd prefer to have in my hand to review quality/sizing before purchase. I picked up four (5/8" X 4 1/2") Stainless Steel Wedge Anchors, instead. I'm thankful I have an excellent marine store (ACE Marine - not affiliated with ACE Hardware) just down the street which specializes in everything marine - including docks, etc. They have the best selection of SS hardware anywhere - top shelf. SS hardware is expensive but lasts forever.
Chris - Agree w/ John. I believe that brake distribution block was originally located on the frame rail and someone elected to install an aftermarket distribution block attached to the MC.
Chris, I wouldn't worry about a pint in 540 miles, or roughly a quart in 1000? Maybe a little more use than you would like but as long as engine runs good, I wouldn't worry about it. My buddy in the Navy had a 73 Cutlass that burnt so much oil it would foul the plugs, now that has to be fixed! (and it was). I remember putting "anti foulers" on the plugs of that car. But I think it used about a quart about every 100 miles and it did smoke, blue smoke... lots... My Cutlass doesn't use any oil in a 2-3000 oil change, niether does my 300 6 in the 56, but my 5.4 in the 06 Ford plow truck uses about a quart every 5-600 miles. It was a city truck and was probably abused, It would be neat to know how many hours are on that engine, It only has 60,000 miles on it but I'll bet it idled all day. Well not much going on here.. life is good. Take care guys!
Chris - Agree w/ John. I believe that brake distribution block was originally located on the frame rail and someone elected to install an aftermarket distribution block attached to the MC.
Norm - There is so much I like about what the previous owner did with the rebuild on my car, but the location of that distribution block and the routing of the brake lines, not so much! It's nice my car has front discs now, and maybe they necessitated the design/location of those components, but it seems like they could have been placed in a better location but I'm not a good enough mechanic to know.
Great idea on the cutting/re-tacking of extra length on the dipstick above the stop point. One of my son-in-laws is an iron worker and has access to every kind of metal cutting and welding tool imaginable. I'm sure he could fix me up just as you described. Gonna have to talk with him about it. Thanks!
Last edited by Dream67Olds442; July 20th, 2021 at 06:37 AM.
Chris, I wouldn't worry about a pint in 540 miles, or roughly a quart in 1000? Maybe a little more use than you would like but as long as engine runs good, I wouldn't worry about it. My buddy in the Navy had a 73 Cutlass that burnt so much oil it would foul the plugs, now that has to be fixed! (and it was). I remember putting "anti foulers" on the plugs of that car. But I think it used about a quart about every 100 miles and it did smoke, blue smoke... lots... My Cutlass doesn't use any oil in a 2-3000 oil change, niether does my 300 6 in the 56, but my 5.4 in the 06 Ford plow truck uses about a quart every 5-600 miles. It was a city truck and was probably abused, It would be neat to know how many hours are on that engine, It only has 60,000 miles on it but I'll bet it idled all day. Well not much going on here.. life is good. Take care guys!
Greg - Glad your classic vehicles don't use any oil during your normal change interval. I'm not too worried about mine right now, but it's something I'll need to keep an eye on now. Like I said, it's running great, but one of these days soon I'm gonna pull one or two plugs just to see what the potential fouling looks like. Thanks for your input!
Chris - White = Lean; Black = Rich, Sandstone = Muy Bueno, Perfecto.
EDIT: Yeah, they could/should have spent a little more time properly routing the brake lines to/from the distribution block - they probably more or less made-do with the materials they had in hand. Having a tube bending tool is the real way to go but most DIYers don't own a tube bending tool.
I accomplished what I set out to do today - anchor a 4" x 4" against the gate - nice & plumb. Since rains showers are intermittent I'm not in the mood to mix mortar and butter bricks so yesterday & today I've cut horizontal fence framing boards for a dry fit. They'll all need to come down so I can finish the columns. Additionally, I'm installing a 6" x 6" post between each column for additional strength therefore I need to pour three more small concrete pads for the 6" x 6" support posts. I'm elated my measurements are all turning out to be perfectly level, plumb & square - woo hoo!
Chris - White = Lean; Black = Rich, Sandstone = Muy Bueno, Perfecto.
EDIT: Yeah, they could/should have spent a little more time properly routing the brake lines to/from the distribution block - they probably more or less made-do with the materials they had in hand. Having a tube bending tool is the real way to go but most DIYers don't own a tube bending tool.
Norm - Thanks! What I definitely don't want to see on the plugs is an oily, crusty black, meaning considerable oil blowby. I don't think that's what I'm going to see though, with no smoke upon start-up even after sitting an extended length, and no smoke upon hard acceleration, I can't be getting too much seepage past the rings or the valve guides. Guess we'll see???
The father and son that built the car had a very impressive garage, doesn't mean they had every tool, or knew how to use what they had. The father had been an assembly line worker and body man for Oldsmobile for 40-years when he retired because of Oldsmobile's elimination. I like to think his knowledge of the car is part of the reason it's as nice as it is. However, no one's an expert on everything!
I accomplished what I set out to do today - anchor a 4" x 4" against the gate - nice & plumb. Since rains showers are intermittent I'm not in the mood to mix mortar and butter bricks so yesterday & today I've cut horizontal fence framing boards for a dry fit. They'll all need to come down so I can finish the columns. Additionally, I'm installing a 6" x 6" post between each column for additional strength therefore I need to pour three more small concrete pads for the 6" x 6" support posts. I'm elated my measurements are all turning out to be perfectly level, plumb & square - woo hoo!
Time for some shrimps!
Norm - Nice pics. That is going to be one impressive fence when you're done, great work!
Man I can hardly move. We turned 120 wheels today and I think they were all the biggest ones. My lead told us today that we needed to make sure inspection was staffed in the morning on overtime. Sorry, that isn't our responsibility. Today was day 2 of no one coming in early for inspection. He said if no one will do it he'll assign it. That will bring on a pow wow with HR.
Sun was out when I got home but downpour now. I should pay a couple bills and take them to be mailed but I'm thinking that won't happen today. I'm really beat. I gave up working when I bid for a desk job.
Chris you want to see how much smoke your car puts out, drive at night and when cars are behind you floor it and look into their headlights.
I'm thinking a nap is in order. Oh great, the rain stopped.
Norm - There is so much I like about what the previous owner did with the rebuild on my car, but the location of that distribution block and the routing of the brake lines, not so much! It's nice my car has front discs now, and maybe they necessitated the design/location of those components, but it seems like they could have been placed in a better location but I'm not a good enough mechanic to know.
Great idea on the cutting/re-tacking of extra length on the dipstick above the stop point. One of my son-in-laws is an iron worker and has access to every kind of metal cutting and welding tool imaginable. I'm sure he could fix me up just as you described. Gonna have to talk with him about it. Thanks!
DO NOT CUT THAT DIPSTICK!!!!!
Holyshit that thing is worth like $150. I'll buy it off you. Get another one and cut it. No one makes 400 dipsticks.
Holyshit that thing is worth like $150. I'll buy it off you. Get another one and cut it. No one makes 400 dipsticks.
Koda - I had no idea! I mentioned earlier in this string that my dipstick tube is a little loose and I may need to buy a new one a some point, so I had previously looked before at Summit and JEGs, and thought I saw a tube/dipstick combo at both places that was supposed to fit both the 400 and 455 blocks. Are you telling me this is incorrect? In any case, I will not destroy the existing dipstick or set-up, as I currently have an acceptable work around using that tool my wife made. So, another question, is there a sealant or glue type substance like Permatex that could be used to firm the tube up in the block, that is if it is even accessible? Thanks!
I have the best suggestion. Put the distribution block on the frame where it belongs. Done!
Norm - That very well may be the best suggestion, but I honestly don't have the skill set or tools to move/re-route those brake lines. I guess I could get a quote or two from a brake shop or even my general mechanic to see what it might cost to relocate the distribution block???
I’ll be 100% with you. It is not a big deal for any brake shop to do this work. The single most important factor is owning the simple tube bender. They sell rolls and rolls of SS brake tubing. Using a tube bender you do nothing more than make the bends. Installing the distribution block is easy. Any real brake shop can make any type flare needed to fit. Honestly it’s simple.
Koda - I had no idea! I mentioned earlier in this string that my dipstick tube is a little loose and I may need to buy a new one a some point, so I had previously looked before at Summit and JEGs, and thought I saw a tube/dipstick combo at both places that was supposed to fit both the 400 and 455 blocks. Are you telling me this is incorrect? In any case, I will not destroy the existing dipstick or set-up, as I currently have an acceptable work around using that tool my wife made. So, another question, is there a sealant or glue type substance like Permatex that could be used to firm the tube up in the block, that is if it is even accessible? Thanks!
The most evil word in the classic car hobby is "fits." All my ebay custom searches have a "-fits" in it. There's two problems here. First, it's a depth thing. Sure, it will "fit", but will 5 quarts of oil land you at full on the mark, or will it be somewhere else? Second, the 66/67 dipstick has the cork seal and flat metal seal and a flat piece of steel bent into a hook. Later ones have a round socket style seal to the tube, and round tube steel handle. So, a replacement part may look wrong and indicate wrong, but would work if you marked it right.
The tube is a press fit to a bulge. No sealant. Grab a pair of channel locks, pad the jaws, and grip right above the bulge where the tube goes into the block and tap with hammer. If no access, a squarely done rap on a 2x4 on the tube top will also make it snug again. Less is definitely more here, don't He Man that thing, and be square. A helper can stabilize the tube. Should take one light hit.
The most evil word in the classic car hobby is "fits." All my ebay custom searches have a "-fits" in it. There's two problems here. First, it's a depth thing. Sure, it will "fit", but will 5 quarts of oil land you at full on the mark, or will it be somewhere else? Second, the 66/67 dipstick has the cork seal and flat metal seal and a flat piece of steel bent into a hook. Later ones have a round socket style seal to the tube, and round tube steel handle. So, a replacement part may look wrong and indicate wrong, but would work if you marked it right.
The tube is a press fit to a bulge. No sealant. Grab a pair of channel locks, pad the jaws, and grip right above the bulge where the tube goes into the block and tap with hammer. If no access, a squarely done rap on a 2x4 on the tube top will also make it snug again. Less is definitely more here, don't He Man that thing, and be square. A helper can stabilize the tube. Should take one light hit.
John - When you say the 66/67 dipstick "has the cork seal and flat metal seal and a flat piece of steel bent into a hook", by cork seal, do you mean there's supposed to be a cork seal that fits into the tube directly below the circular flat metal stopper? If so, mine is missing the cork seal, because there is nothing below the circular flat metal stopper. I understand what you mean about the "fits" scenario.
As far as re-seating the tube into the block, I wasn't sure if once seated, and then it worked loose for whatever reason, whether it could be seated again after the seating bulges had been compressed once already. Sounds like it can. I am hoping there is access from below for a couple of reasons. One is, if you look back at the picture I posted, there hardly is any room above the tube to get a piece of 2x4 in there and a hammer to tap it with, for the same reason I can't get to the dipstick to begin with, too much crap in the way. Second, I have read several horror stories of guys trying to tap them in from above and messing the tube up. Plenty of things to check out and hopefully fix the next time I get her up on jack stands, which by the way I need a better set of. In addition to the tube issue, I want to find exactly where that pesky minor oil leak is coming from. Thanks for the help, very much appreciated.
John - When you say the 66/67 dipstick "has the cork seal and flat metal seal and a flat piece of steel bent into a hook", by cork seal, do you mean there's supposed to be a cork seal that fits into the tube directly below the circular flat metal stopper? If so, mine is missing the cork seal, because there is nothing below the circular flat metal stopper. I understand what you mean about the "fits" scenario.
As far as re-seating the tube into the block, I wasn't sure if once seated, and then it worked loose for whatever reason, whether it could be seated again after the seating bulges had been compressed once already. Sounds like it can. I am hoping there is access from below for a couple of reasons. One is, if you look back at the picture I posted, there hardly is any room above the tube to get a piece of 2x4 in there and a hammer to tap it with, for the same reason I can't get to the dipstick to begin with, too much crap in the way. Second, I have read several horror stories of guys trying to tap them in from above and messing the tube up. Plenty of things to check out and hopefully fix the next time I get her up on jack stands, which by the way I need a better set of. In addition to the tube issue, I want to find exactly where that pesky minor oil leak is coming from. Thanks for the help, very much appreciated.
This repop is no longer made. It's FELT, according to the one on my kitchen table, not cork, my bad. It doesn't seal IN the tube, or AROUND the tube (like later ones), it only butts on the top edge of the tube, like putting your palm on the end of a coke can. Access from below is best. It does not need much.
This repop is no longer made. It's FELT, according to the one on my kitchen table, not cork, my bad. It doesn't seal IN the tube, or AROUND the tube (like later ones), it only butts on the top edge of the tube, like putting your palm on the end of a coke can. Access from below is best. It does not need much.
I see, right now mine has nothing but the metal stopper disc. Would be easy enough to cut a little felt disc and slap on there though. Thanks for clarifying.
Nice out now, I think the rain is gone for awhile. I need to finish the mowing so I can start all over.
Rode around on a couple errands this afternoon and surprise of all surprises the AC in the dogmobile isn't working again. I'm torn. Do I go back to that guy a third time and see if he can finally fix it, and possibly give him the opportunity to say it's something different and charge me another hundred bucks, or do I find someplace else and let them give it a whirl since the previous guy is 0 for 2? I need AC for the dog to be able to go with me, anywhere. Without that the car is worthless to me. It's ridiculous enough that I bought the dog his own car, but now I'd have to get another one with AC that works, and then he'd have a summer and a winter car. That's borderline absurd!
Work was good. I ended up going in early, against my better judgement. I'm disappointed that I gave in so easily. The washer didn't get turned on until 530. I thought I'd be ill about it all day(pronounced eel, as the locals would say) but surprisingly my mood was light. Until...
I think the house deal is going to unravel. Remember last week when the lender wanted a huge list of stuff immediately, most of which he already had? I had a fit about it and raised the roof. But I got everything together and sent it in. Today I get another list and everything on it they already have. Well except for the reason I made 24K less last year than I did the year before. That's none of their damn business(the reason is I didn't work overtime last year, btw). Here's the kicker. They wanted a house insurance quote from the people I'm getting house insurance from. I sent it. Today they wanted to know who I'm going to get house insurance from. They didn't think to look at the top of the page? Clearly they don't want to do business with me, or they'd be able to get their $hit together. I haven't decided what I'm going to respond with, either make it happen with what you already have, or simply No. I could be buying the Taj Mahal and it wouldn't be worth this much crap.
Jamesbo hope the feast went well and everyone stayed happy. Was this the seven sisters and crew? I don't remember you ever saying you were hosting your own Cast.
Koda you are so right about "fits." The rare times I look at ebay for Amphicar parts, I get everything from rope lights to glow in the dark seat belts to replacement laser beam headlights. All things my car doesn't have. But they all say "fits Amphicar."
The shrimps look awesome as usual Norm. I've never bought shrimps, I'll have to look into it the next trip to the grocery store. I wonder if I have a sea food market around here.
I think the next Good Morning Thread get together should be at Chris's house for a brake party.
Okay it's time to settle in for the evening. I'll probably go in early tomorrow as well. No need for it, but if the company wants to pay me to do it, what the heck. Pretty sure I won't do Saturday, though. Anyway have a good evening everyone.
Good evening guys,
Pretty laid back, non-eventful day. Still waiting on the State to get my "Historic" plates to me. It's been over 40-days now since they received my application, but they cashed my check last week so I'm thinking they should get here in the next day or two. My current plates expire the end of the month.
One of my favorite dinners, Brats & Tots, the only thing that could have made it better is some good vinegar slaw, but we didn't have any shredded cabbage in the house. Later, good ol Razzleberry pie for dessert!
Chris - 40+ days to get a license plate...that's insane. Excuse me but is that what I think it is in that cup...a cup of ketchup? Is someone sharing that plate with you?
July 20th, 2021, 01:40 AM
