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Unlike the GM bullshit where you lower a little then go tuck it in, lower a little more tuck more. You know I had a 70 Cutlass years ago and I'd push the button and the top would go down and I'd be on my way. The 70 Cutlass I have now is the lower and tuck business. I don't know why the same car would work differently.
I'm fairly sure the Fisher manual says to do the lower and tuck process to ensure the top is folded properly and not binding at the bends - that binding can eventually stretch the material until it tears. I typically lower until slightly past vertical, do one tuck to ensure the material is folding properly, then lower the rest of the way. Maybe with a seasoned top the material has preset fold lines so it tends to auto-tuck as the top lowers.
Jim - There may be one additional board - not positive. Before I go chasing that rabbit though, let me know if either of those images are what you need first. Bot are no longer made/available from normal suspect parts places. That was how it was w/ a couple parts I needed, also. I have teh part numbers for everything for your dryer though. Just need to extend the search a little. What I've found is many of these parts can be found from independent appliance repair places sometimes repair guys themselves who are selling new parts for stuff. These guys mostly are on eBay. Don't get too discouraged too soon since there's good chances someone probably has your part(s).
Gotcha. You want the entire Control Panel itself which doesn't include the logic control board. But, again, you want the Control Panel itself I guess since that is part number 31001658. I'll look around.
Jim - I've found several listed but they're gone i.e. SOLD. I'll continue looking. FYI, so you don't lose this info which might prove useful. There may be the chance you'll find same part listed with a different number.
Part Number 31001658 (AP4039020) replaces 1033359, AH2031146, EA2031146, PS2031146
I previously posted an image of the Logic Control Board for that Control Panel (Post 55602). That Logic Control Board is the brain of the Control Panel. If you can't find the entire Control Panel, I'll give you the part number(s) for the Logic Control Board. There may be the chance only the Logic Control Board needs to be replaced (if we can find one). It's discontinued as well but you're in same boat I was with my dryer - had to beat down some doors to find the part(s).
Here's the part number(s) for the Logic Control Board >>>Logic Board (WP31001562 / AP6007607). Logic Control Board is Item #1
Is there sum way to set up your computer to automatically look for parts at say 2:00 a.,m. or do I need to type in every morning?
Jim - You will need to be extremely proficient with Windows computer technical knowledge to create an automated task - no disrespect, but it's highly unlikely you can do this. Many computer savvy technicians don't even know how to do this.
There is a method, you'll pull your hair out and scream loudly just looking at the screen trying to setup a Windows task inside the built-in Windows 'Task Scheduler', but to be straight forward it can be done only if you must absolutely know what you're doing. Hate to be telling you this, but you can't do it. Sorry.
Jim - You will need to be extremely proficient with Windows computer technical knowledge to create an automated task - no disrespect, but it's highly unlikely you can do this. Many computer savvy technicians don't even know how to do this.
There is a method, you'll pull your hair out and scream loudly just looking at the screen trying to setup a Windows task inside the built-in Windows 'Task Scheduler', but to be straight forward it can be done only if you must absolutely know what you're doing. Hate to be telling you this, but you can't do it. Sorry.
Here's a screen shot of Windows 'Task Scheduler'. Unless you know exactly what you're doing and how to navigate the complete Windows operating system, you can stop immediately and never look back. Bottom line, you'll need to perform your search manually every day.
Task Scheduler itself is not all that difficult but you absolutely must have the technical background to create an automated task. To demonstrate the very basics of what you're asking to achieve, you would first have to create/write a script and define every parameter of the script. Unless you know how to create a script using any program of your choosing, you'll be dead in the water right out of the gate. So, stop right now and never look back. Here's how you'd create a basic script using Python. You'll be six feet under before you can manage this.
Norm, here's a funny one for you. Samsung combination oven MC12J8035CT. I've had it 6.5 years. Multiple function whiz bang appliance. Microwave function is not microwaving intermittently. Lights up, fan goes, turntable runs, but magnetron does not go. If you turn it to 90%, when the computer kicks it off for 10%, it will come on then when called after that interval. Letting it sit for a min unplugged will cause it to work at 100% power fine for that cycle. Trying it again will often give no heat. I think the control board is being flaky. Magnetrons either work or they don't. Sometimes, it will work with 100% setting twice in a row, so I think it's a controls issue.
Norm, here's a funny one for you. Samsung combination oven MC12J8035CT. I've had it 6.5 years. Multiple function whiz bang appliance. Microwave function is not microwaving intermittently. Lights up, fan goes, turntable runs, but magnetron does not go. If you turn it to 90%, when the computer kicks it off for 10%, it will come on then when called after that interval. Letting it sit for a min unplugged will cause it to work at 100% power fine for that cycle. Trying it again will often give no heat. I think the control board is being flaky. Magnetrons either work or they don't. Sometimes, it will work with 100% setting twice in a row, so I think it's a controls issue.
Man, I'm the worst w/ microwaves. I know enough to be very dangerous. Yeah, a magnetron based on an LC resonate circuit where L = the inductor & C = the capacitor (LC oscillation) and together they form a cavity magnetron. That's as much as i know. I took a NMR (Nuclear Magnetic Resonance) course in grad school. Basically how an MRI works, theory of NMR, etc. I was grad assistant on TEM/SEM (Transmission Electron Microscopy/Scanning Electron Microscopy) at the time. NMR course was fascinating. I used TEM & SEM nearly daily and for my grad thesis but honestly couldn't tell you anything about how a basic microwave oven works.
I think this thing is a glorious excuse for a few things put together controlled by one circuit board. Things like a light, a fan, a magnetron, a turntable, an oven. So, I put in an offer for a pcb on ebay creatively sourced. I'll swap it out while trying to not to kill myself on it. I hear microwaves have serious caps and **** that will make you ride the lightning.
update: offer accepted on the ebay. Part on its way. I can make the thing work somewhat, and I have a very old Sharp Carousel in the basement that I never tossed after I bought this one.
This thing you have is called a convection microwave oven - I had to look it up. Evidently it's a basic microwave (cavity magnetron) but includes another circuit/device by which resulting hot air produced from the heating of the substance is then circulated via a fan inside the volume of the microwave container yielding resemblance to a convection oven but powered via a microwave (magnetron). Did I get this right?
I might be wrong about this, but I think in a normal microwave oven there is a fan, but the sole purpose of the fan is to cool the cavity magnetron itself - does that sound correct? The fan does absolutely nothing to circulate air inside the microwave container where the substance is being heated.
Now, introduce this concept of a "convection" oven to a microwave oven and you now have a fan located inside which circulates the hot air created inside the containment area of the heated substance thereby creating a convection oven whose power is sourced via a cavity magnetron (microwave). I got this right?
I guess you just picked some random pcb? After all a pcb itself does nothing until you add components to it. How you going to figure out what components/devices/controllers/resistors etc. to mount on the pcb? I like a good challenge this should be interesting.
Norm Tanks for the help. Please forgive my ignorance but What I hear you saying is every morning I need to type in Maytag dryer part #" and hope for the best
Norm Tanks for the help. Please forgive my ignorance but What I hear you saying is every morning I need to type in Maytag dryer part #" and hope for the best
I found another number which may be identical to the part you're looking for:
Part #31001660
Thing is, like most of these appliances, perhaps not each manufacturer of this dryer used the exact same part number yet remains the exact same "device". So, you have to put in the leg work on deciphering if you can find anything significant. Whirlpool owns the following brands. Maybe GE owned the same ones at some point in time. So we may find you a part number of a different brand which is identical to the Maytag number. Often times they did use the same part number, but in several instances they use a different part number for the exact same item.
Not certain exactly how yourself or anyone has determined you need the entire control panel but suffice it to say that control panel is becoming very unlikely to find, but I'll continue to look for you. You realize that control panel is actually "controlled" by either one (likely) or several control "boards". Each of the functions as you see them on the control panel are "controlled" by a control board (or several). That's where I am right now, determining if you need the entire control panel or you maybe only need the control board (which is also showing up as discontinued, no longer available, etc, etc.).
Persistence pays off (many times) if you continue to dig.
I found supposedly the control board for your dryer. I'll toss the info to you and you can make an informed decision as to whether you want to pursue another avenue of repair. If you're 100% positive you need the entire control panel, I'll stop looking for any control boards, but I'll check to see if I can find that control panel - don't hold your breath.
Here is a control board I found which thus far appears to be available. They sold 157 of these things so chances may be good it's a significant item. Obviously, this control board resides on the control panel itself. So, it should be a direct swap.
There is a relay board located in the bottom of the dryer cabinet
Part Number(s) 53-4643, 31001561
It's function most likely is (1) operates as a relay (doh) for the (2) dryer motor itself so power is isolated away from the control panel, control board and directed solely to the dryer motor. If the motor is suspect, this "might" be an item of concern for replacement. If none of the functions operate on the Control Panel itself, it's likely the Control Board located on the Control Panel has failed. I'm trying to suggest something here. It would be HIGHLY unlikely the entire Control Panel would fail - I mean it's possible, but think about this. The entire Control Panel is actually controlled by the "logic" contained in the control board and not the control panel.
You can pull up select diagrams of your dryer from various sources, some better than others. There are many websites. I've found the best one with accurate references for diagrams and part numbers is called Part Select. So, I basically use this site to lookup part numbers for appliances - many type of appliances. Then I start cross-referencing and performing a very wide range of Google searches trying to locate any part numbers which match the original part numbers. Most often I have great success, sometimes not so much.
If I were to hedge a bet, I'd suspect you likely need the logic control board (Item #1) Logic Board (WP31001562 / AP6007607), but I'm working from a desk armchair w/ no real knowledge.
Lots & lots of rain began ~20 minutes ago as one of the larger bands from Debby arrived. I did a brief radar visual of the heaviest downpours currently occurring and between me Charlotte & Wilmington it's a veritable deluge of water. Going to be some significant flooding I suspect with this.
Jim - I'll also hedge a bet on this one, as well. If you should happen to find that Control Panel (they're calling it the Console w/ Membrane) it's highly doubtful & unlikely it will contain a Logic Control Board. In that case, you'd be removing your current Logic Control Board and installing it into your new Control Panel (Console a/ Membrane). Obviously, you need to think seriously about what you actually need/require to fix your beastly machine.
Started off the day without a wall guy. My regular guy is in a class, and his replacement almost didn't make it because his car broke down. He said he took Uber to work. This guy is new and pretty slow, but is doing a good job so I won't fuss.
Another hot and sunny day. Funny, we have many days in a row with no rain, but then if it rains one day I think the world is ending. No secret I don't like rain.
Mowing after work. I wanted to do some yesterday, but I didn't have a ride to take the car, and the place didn't have anyone to bring me home. So I walked. Not the brightest idea to walk two miles in the baking sun, but it didn't take but a half hour. I decided to sit the rest of the afternoon out.
Hope everyone has a good day. Norm get out your water wings.
August 7th, 2024 | 02:19 PM
