Koda

Well, I did clean the glass stovetop and both the toilets tonight (so I could throw away all the cleaning trash in the trash tomorrow) so there's your transition.

Today's turkey is tomorrow's turd.

Jamesbo

yep that's always the problem, You can avoid reality but cha cant avoid the consequences of avoiding reality. Who else like a turkey sandwich with this stuff?

Vintage Chief

Jim - Oh yes. That's delicious sauce for any sandwich esp. turkey.

Jamesbo

Norm, do you put walnuts in your cranberry orange zest sauce?

Vintage Chief

Most times, yes.

Jamesbo

That's the way I like mine. Lets have a poll, who had dessert for breakfast? Me guilty pecan pie

Vintage Chief

Nothing to feel guilty about. Sounds delicious.

Raining here - moderately. New lug nuts for the '71 CS convertible have been on my work bench for two months. I had one stripped lug nut (luckily it was only the lug nut) & elected to purchase an entire set for all wheels. I'll remove the wheels, wire brush the threaded studs, reassemble the wheels & install new lug nuts (with some ant-seize).

First on the agenda is to hit that Food Lion to see if they still have any of those organic blueberries from Peru.

I feel for Mike this morning.

slantflat

Good morning everyone.

Mom was having such a fit about the septic tank she thought the whole place was going to fill up. She'd feel so much better if I stayed there last night. Big mistake. The recliner was not comfortable and I couldn't sleep. The couch, every time I so much as twitched it ejected me onto the floor. I had the best luck sleeping on Tiger's couch, which is a love seat and my feet hang over the edge. At 9 this morning I still hadn't heard anything from Mom so I came back to my house to have a shower and get ready for the day.

The sump pump et al had calmed down by the time I went to bed so I wasn't worried about that. This is all my fault because I haven't had the tank pumped in the 17 years I've been there. One person living there, use Rid X once a month, never had an inkling I'd have a problem. Must have been Mom's gastro problems that sent it over the edge. I'm not going to tell her that.

Sorry I sullied up the Thanksgiving repast discussion. I'll help steer it back. I had pizza for breakfast and will have pumpkin pie for lunch.

Norm I believe the maintenance manual says to put the lug nuts on clean, dry studs. If you torque to the proper value you shouldn't need anti-seize. Just be sure to recheck them after a couple hundred miles. Don't use a lot. Hm. That's my unsolicited advice for the day.

So on to finding a plumber. I know nothing about this septic tank stuff. Does the plumber do the pumping or is that a different person? If the tank overflows does that automatically mean I need a new drain field? Will Bill and Amy finally sleep together after the prom? This and more on the next episode of Mike Has Too Much Money.

Have a good day everyone.

Vintage Chief

Mike - Good for you for owning up. But, yes, the septic tank issue is your fault because you neglected to put it on a yearly schedule. Generally (depends on size of septic tank & number of persons in household) a septic tank requires draining every ~3-5 years. Septic tanks (as opposed to holding tanks - which you most likely DO NOT have) are generally in the 500 gal., 1200 gal. & 2200 gal. ranges. So, first thing would have been to have the size of your tank evaluated (when you bought the home) then plan on the most likely amount of time to fill the tank. Also, in general, there should be an alarm - either visual or audible connected to the float in the septic tank - operates much like a fuel tank float. Alarm triggers when full. They're located most often in a utility room, side of house, pole near septic tank, etc. While checking to see if you have such an alarm, check your fuse panel for the chance there is no breaker tripped, etc. which would obviously make the alarm inoperable.

For your remedy. It sounds "basically" as though your septic tank breached its holding capacity & is overrunning into your drain field. To validate, if you dare, find your one or sometimes two septic tank lids and open them. Some of this depends on location of the septic tank - whether your drain field is above the location of your septic tank, since some septic tanks reside lower than the drain field (requiring a separate pump). The pump lifts the waste water above the septic tank into the drain field.

You most likely only need to call a Honey Bucket septic removal company first-off to drain your septic tank and you'll be fine. When the person arrives, identify the size of your tank and ask for advice on locating your float alarm. Good Luck buddy!

Vintage Chief

Mike - BTW, it is very possible & likely w/ your Mom now residing in the home, your tank filled more rapidly. I've seen this many times when a household which hardly ever used the toilets, showers, etc. (depends on how your plumbing was installed) for many years all of a sudden encounter issues when the plumbing is now called upon. It isn't always so much the amount of solid waste which fills the septic tank, it's the amount of waste water produced from flushing (showers, etc. again depending on plumbing characteristics, age of home, etc.). The waste water produced is FAR, FAR more volume than the solid waste material and the septic tank fills with waste water more often than solid waste. A septic tank (most) have baffles which separate solid waste from waste water - and, solid waste settles (in time) while waste water fills the tank.

Vintage Chief

Hate to belabor this, but you might also ask the Honey Bucket drain pump company if they think they can identify if you have a separate lift (waste water) pump connected to your septic system. Sometimes that pump will become inoperable and then you're in the Schmitz requiring a new septic waste water pump. Not expensive, labor more than anything. But, talk to the Honey Bucket company, they can pretty quickly evaluate if you have a separate waste water septic (lift) pump.

Koda

My money is still on plugged outlet to drain field. A traditional septic needs sucked out every ten years or so with heavy use, also depends on size. However, if you're puking back liquid, unless the solids are blocking the outflow, it should be draining all drain water into the drain field. All those alarms and pumps and stuff Norm is talking about is for newer systems, so you probably don't have any of those. To clarify, a septic tank is always "full," when you put one in, you need to generate water ASAP so that thing does not get levitated out of the ground like a cork. It is full, mostly, of liquid. Gray and black water in, gray water out, solids stay. So, unless the solids are blocking the outflow, problem could be elsewhere.

However, like Norm says, emptying is probably good maintenance when in doubt.

Vintage Chief

Success at the Food Lion. Yes, they had the same organic blueberries. I picked up two pints this time. I asked the produce person (who was far from polite) if they carried this particular produce routinely and you'd have thought I pissed him off asking such a mundane question. After prodding him with an electric high voltage cattle prod, I managed to find out he just put out whatever was on the truck. They don't always carry this item - it's hit or miss.

Koda

Minimum effort for minimum wage. That is the standard to which we have sunk. It is hard to blame the employee when it is a dead end job with an employer looking to cheat him any way they can. It is hard to blame the employer when the employee treats the job like they get paid for being there for 8 hours instead of the work they do.

Vintage Chief

Yeah, agree w/ what John stated. The tank "should" be emptying into the drain field; but, after 17 years of filling - it's hit or miss how much sold wasted is contained (since you also don't know prior to your purchase when the tank was last pumped). At any rate, I'd call the Honey Bucket service first, then the plumber and prod them both. John's correct, could be the outflow into the drain field is clogged (that would require a plumber - most often); although, I have seen a Honey Bucket service with a dedicated pressure line capable of blowing out plugged outflow pipes.

Vintage Chief

Agree, a great deal of apathy in the workplace today.

Vintage Chief

Lasagna Italiano for dinner this evening. Time to change out my lug nuts.

Jamesbo

Mike, There are septic tank companies that will come an pump 1st. Worry about the [expensive] drain lines later. They could be collapsed or clogged with tree roots. If it were me and not knowing the age etc. I[d pump and wait and see

slantflat

Thanks guys. The only pump in the house is the sump pump in the basement, and all it does is pump the washing machine water up to the regular system. It's just gravity from upstairs down to the tank. The cleanout is in the crawlspace, but I'm not brave enough to take the cap off.

Rain off and on all morning. That severely cuts down on what I can do today. Maybe I'll go to the store and get some Clorox.

Vintage Chief

There are several things we don't know about the status of your plumbing - much based upon year of construction, contractor, codes, etc. And again, what I'm referring to is based upon age of the system (plumbing) and code. "Old School" days would have seen the washing machine waste water pumped via a separate line into a drain field (even nothing more than a French drain). As time moved forward, sometimes these types of drain lines (gray lines) were tied into the septic system - obviously increasing the amount of waste water in the septic tank(s). BTW, when I refer to a separate dedicated waste water pump it would not be located inside the house, it would be located in the field near to the septic tank. It's "dedicated" to waste water from the septic tank and has (should have) nothing to do w/ a sump pump in your basement. Much we don't know.

Jamesbo

Mike, I would wait [ and try not to use the plumbing] and hope that some of it drains out. Then you could place a towel over the clean out and a large plastic trash can under it and just barely turn it to see if the water is below the clean out. If water comes out tighten it back and wait some more. OR have the system pumped and then check the clean out of obstruction. Ive seen one paper towel cause the same situation

Vintage Chief

My house (1930) sat empty for 8 years prior to my purchase (2001). Within six months the sewer line was backing up. History: Original two seater outhouse in field with a holding tank (how many years who knows). Next came indoor plumbing and they built an outhouse in the home (addition) with a septic tank outdoors. The old “wash house” drained into a drain field. Wringer washing machine came indoors - rolled into kitchen for wash days, drain hung out the kitchen window. Then came more plumbing, shower, sinks etc. tied to septic tank. Of course indoor outhouse tied to septic. Raised six kids in this house. Next came automatic washing machine with separate dedicated drain pipe to ditch on side of house - which clogged of course. Then they tied into city water and city sewer. Waste pipes were a mess under house. Shower and indoor outhouse tied to old school terra cotta tile originally tied to septic. Septic capped when they tied to city. Terra cotta tile sat 8 years empty and roots choked the tile to death at each mortared seam. My first upgrade was removal of the old terra cotta piping.

Koda

Not that cleanout. There is a tank, outside, that may have a lid on the ground.

Jamesbo

The long awaited point I was trying to make is it may not be the septic tank. I could be a clogged pipe

Vintage Chief

Gents. I placed myself in a pickle. I knew since I purchased the car (2018) there was something suspicious about the RH front lug nuts. In the past several years while working on the car I've had difficulties w/ one (in particular) lug nut &/or lug. Well, the new lug nuts on that rotor are getting all chopped up attempting to tighten them down. I tried so hard on one lug nut I now have the lug nut free spinning on the lug and can't remove the lug nut - that's the pickle. It has front disc & rear drum. The drums in the rear are like brand new - been there many times. The front calipers & pads looked to be in good shape never had an issue, but I'm pretty sure they're both original to the car. So, I'm not much into replacing individual lugs and I think it's best I just replace both rotors on the front anyways. But, my pickle is I can't get the lug nut off one lug on the RH front wheel - argh. I guess my only option is to remove the assembly then see if I can get a sazall blade to cutoff the lug. Any suggestions? Take your time pondering, Lasagna Italiano is done and ready to come out of the oven.

Vintage Chief

Oh yeah, BTW, when I say it's stripped - I mean the "interior" of the lug nut is stripped and free spinning - doing nothing more than wobbledy wobbledy on the lug. It free spins in that one position. Lovely.

Vintage Chief

I watched a couple guys (Youtube) drill them off - graduating from smaller>larger bit sizes. I guess this might be a better option to remove the lug nut?

Lasagna Italiano is marvelous.

otto72

Hit or Miss with competent polite customer service for the most part nowadays mostly miss. I always enjoy and enjoyed helping customers.

Jamesbo

Norm, Are you sure its pulled out enough? Have you got a villosity joint nut ? IMHO there's something else going on to cause one lug nut to strip

Vintage Chief

Jim - Am I sure what is pulled out enough? Three of the five studs/lugs look pretty beat up and their threads look like spaghetti. The one lug nut I could tighten until ~1/2-way down the threads/splines. Then it began to wobble, then I could no longer get the lug nut to move forward or in reverse. It merely free-spins on the stud/lug - going nowhere. I'm not thinking real clearly here as I previously suggested new rotors. Hell, the studs are located on the hub. Argh. Well, I think I better remove the lug nut from the stud as the first order of business I reckon?

Jamesbo

https://www.google.com/search?q=repl...id:0xjPBFsLT94

Vintage Chief

Jim - Greatly appreciate your efforts/assistance. You realize I can't get the wheel off the car, right?

Vintage Chief

I found another method (I like) which might just be the way I go.

Lug nuts just spinning and won't come off, try this.

Vintage Chief

I need to re-check my lug nuts. I'm pretty sure they are one piece lug nuts as opposed to lug nuts with chrome caps since I found some guys chiseling off the chrome caps to get to the underlying nut (down one mm in size for wrenching). Again, though I'm pretty sure my new lug nuts are one solid piece w/o a chrome cap. None of this is going to happen today. I can only have so much fun in one day.

1969w3155

Norm, is there room on your wheel for a nut splitter? Can you get at it with a Dremel tool and a cutting wheel/disc? You may have to replace the studs by the sounds of it, once you've removed the stubborn lug nut. I'll be having an open face turkey sandwich followed by pumpkin pie shortly, as my sister in law sent me home with a sizable doggy bag.

Jamesbo

No. sorry I missed that. The Gorilla way I don't think I could make it work. [Well maybe with just one]So just so I understand correctly. You have one lug nut bolt holding the wheel on. Correct?

Vintage Chief

Dan - Good questions/suggestions. I have a Dremel and tools - that may be an option, I'll have to see if there's enough room. I'm going to be replacing all the front studs (both sides) whatever the case since both sides appear they may be original to the car. Right now I'm face down in my CSM trying to sort out what type wheel hub/spindle/rotor assemblies this car has. I have no issues working on hub assemblies if I can figure out what the hell I'm looking for. Is it possible this car ('71 CS 350cid optional factory installed front disc brakes) has a wheel hub which is part of the rotor assembly - as opposed to a separate hub and separate rotor? IOW, the hub is contained w/in the rotor and it is sold as one continuous assembly? Learning what I'm getting into here.

Vintage Chief

You got it Jim. One lug nut holding the wheel onto one lug (stud) of the hub.

Jamesbo

I would think Using Dans idear, Even if all you could cut is a slit in the lug bolt that would make the /Gorilla method much easier

Vintage Chief

Yeah. Even to cut a slit into the lug nut itself might be enough to weaken the lug nut to get it to break off separate from the lug.

So, it appears to me this front brake/wheel system has a hub which is "built into" the disc rotor. IOW, there is no free-standing axle hub which the rotor mounts to. Instead, it is an assembly where the hub is built into (a part of) the rotor itself. Any of you confirm?