I'd recommend reading Rob's thread about his front end rebuild.

He did it with the engine in, but it's much easier with the engine out. True, compressing the springs may be a bit harder, but it's nothing you couldn't handle if you had to.

I must say that if the idea has struck you, and you've got the time and the money, now is the time, as the access is unparalleled.

- Eric

 

X3 - I bought new springs for my car, MAW rebuild the front end while the motor is getting worked on. Tore it all down, blasted, painted, new ball joints, bushings, etc. OOps, I now know that if you have the fenders and core support off (with motor out) there is not enough weight to compress the springs
Now I have to wait until the motor is back in to reassemble the front end.

 

I did my front end rebuild over the summer. New ball joints , steering somponents , Moroso trick springs and lake wood 90/10 shocks drag race stuff lol. As far as compressing the spings I just used a jack under the lower control arm and jacked it up until I could tighten the spindled . It sucked with the trick springs because they are tall . I didn't do the control arm bushings they were fine. My car only had 50k when I got it and the ball joints were all still good but I did it any way. I also did new front drums , shoes , bearings , studs, I think I spent around 400 picking the correct parts along with some freebies like the trick springs and shocks.

 

I also lowered it about 2 inches in the front. This happened because the springs I got where cut one coil previous to me getting them lol. Now I gotta lower the rear an inch but that's easy enough . Imo having the engine in or out does not matter. The easiest way imo is to take out the inner wheel wells. That's frees up more space than the engine being out.

before .


after

 

Thanks fellas, I may go ahead and replace the tie rods while the motor is out if they need it. I have to wait for better weather before I can replace the motor so I'm looking at things I can get done while I wait. But I'll test them first.

I was just reading this. It's a relief really, I have to wait long enough to test the motor, glad I don't have to wait longer.
I was also reading up on the control arm bushings. Do you folks take them somewhere to have them pressed out?

 

Rob?

 

Damn Copper, that's a good looking car. Just the wheel wells and not the fenders? I'd rather not get into realigning body panels quite yet.

 

Lady72nRob71

As for the trouble compressing the springs with the car partly disassembled, the common solution is to wrap a chain around the bottom of the floor jack and the top of the frame, so that the jack compresses the spring, but cannot lift the frame off the ground.

Also, the upper control arm bushing and ball joint can be changed without touching the spring.
The bushings are not hard to remove, either with your own homemade press, or with one borrowed from your local chain auto parts store.

Your choice.

- Eric

 

Not positive but I think he means therobski on his 64 granny build he did a custom disk brake and gear box upgrades.

Please correct me if I am wrong here

 

Thanks mac. Paint and body is good but it is rough around the edges. No trim around the windows , Gutted interior with rear half sheet metal since I have a 4pt. roll bar. the front fenders and hood are fiberglass. It has battles scars rubber on the quarter. The stuff you get having fun lol. I might re paint it next year and do window trim.

 

Just for reader reference, here's the afore mentioned front end rebuild thread:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-end-job.html

 

Cleaning the head bolt threads in the block. Hardware store didn't have any sort of 7/16 bolt with threads longer than an inch and the bolt shaft seemed larger than the head bolt's. I was going to use a carriage bolt but they didn't have 7/16". Started using my 7/16-14 NC tap but didn't like the way it felt. No shavings but it felt wrong. The threads are pretty clean and good as is. Right now I'm just dipping a head bolt in oil and threading it in and out a couple of times. It goes all the way in by hand so I think I'll be good to go. Hoping to get my shim gaskets today or tomorrow so I can get the heads back on.

 

Hey fellers, I think I goofed up and put the oil pan on too early. I just installed the harmonic balancer (damper) and am trying to torque it to the 160 ft lbs the manual states but I can't get the crank to stop turning. I tried putting a 3/8" steel rod through one of the flex plate holes on the back of the crank, butting against the engine stand but it bent like celebrities bend rules. Please don't tell me I have to take the oil pan back off. I did such a sweet job of sealing it.

 

Use a half inch crafstman ratchet. If it brakes then it's garaunteed lol. I have used the ratchet in the past to tighten the balancer bolt. Sometimes the wrong tool for the job at hand works but you gotta be creative. You can also use some 3/8 ths flat stock and dril holes where the converter bolts up and tighten it up and viola.

 

Oh hey, I like the flat stock idea. I'll give that a try right now, if I have some lying around. Thanks copper.

 

Didn't have any flat stock but I did find a hardened steel punch just the right size. Bolt is torqued up. Now the waterpump pulley and the crank pulley aren't exactly lined up. Can I use a washer behind the water pump pulley to true it up?

 

Remember I suggested that fancy flywheel grabbing dohicky way way back? I'll betcha it would come in real handy-like right about now, wouldn't it?

 

That was the first thing I thought of Prof, lol. But the engine is still on the stand with no flywheel attached so it wouldn't have done much good, I don't think. The time is coming when I WILL need it though.
I put a single thrust washer behind the water pump pulley and it lined both pulleys right up.
My head gaskets from Smitty are running late. I was hoping to get the heads and intake on this weekend. Not in a hurry, just getting excited

 

Flywheel holders are overrated lol. I hate them . I have never used one I liked . I got my angle iron with 2 holes ready to go. Also mac when you install the engine leave 2. Converter bolt holes in the 8 and 4 o'clock position. With the engine facing up right. , that way you can tighten 2 bolts readily to the converter then bump the starter to get the last one once installed. This avoids having to use a flex plate turner. Or you can also turn it from the crank bolt to position the flex plate correctly. My method has always worked the fastest for me. Just a tip for future refrence.

 

Future is the key word there Copper, lol. One panic attack at a time. Though that is some pretty good advice. I used the crank bolt to turn the motor when I was taking the converter bolts out.
Speaking of starters; mine is caked in grease. Can I safely use carb or brake cleaner to clean it without harming the internals?

 

Yes, it's exposed to road salt and grime all the time and takes no damage from it.

 

My 2¢:

You can use a BIG screwdriver jammed between two teeth of the flexplate and held against a transmission locating pin if you're brave, and you probably won't break a tooth.

I have never had a problem rotating the converter / flexplate directly by hand, so long as the engine is broken in (harder to turn with new rings and hone).
Otherwise, a ratchet on the crank bolt is always good.

I would be concerned about the pulleys not lining up on their own.
They should.
Look for something not assembled correctly before using a shim.

If you are going to clean your starter, I'd recommend just disassembling it.
It's a minimal amount of extra effort, the result will be nicer, and you will be able to check the brushes, commutator, and bearings, and lubricate it.
In the end, though, the starter is darn near invisible, and if you get it all nice, you'll be disappointed when it's installed and you can't even see it.

Great progress!

- Eric

 

I had read reviews on the water pump I purchased and misalignment was a common complaint. But it's just a tiny bit, not even a washer's thickness. But I will double check. It could be because I haven't torqued the pulley bolts yet.
Not trying to make the starter a looker, just want to be able to re-install it without it slipping out of my hands, lol. It's pretty gross. Entirely black.

 

Mac, I have been reading thru the thread, all I can say is wow Put-r-ther, the members help on CO is just phenomenal. I'm taking notes here. I hope everything works out you deserve it after all that work. I have also had very good advice from some here in the short time with CO.
All the best with the rest of your build !!!
Eric

 

Get you a gallon of Varsol and a tub. Scrape the majority off and then wipe down with a few rags. Blow dry with compressed air.

 

Mac you are doing a great job !!!

I am with mdchanic

If you don't know the history on the starter rebuild/ checking really wouldn't or if money isn't a issue a mini starter lol for when you get those fancy headers

 

Mine looked just like I picture yours looking. I disassembled mine completely, cleaned off the grease with rags and brake parts cleaner, then media blasted it. Blew it out with compressed air, painted it up and put it back together. Be sure to get the bearing surfaces clean before you reassemble, with just a bit of lube. As long as the brushes are decent, and the bearings are clean, there isn't much else that can cause problems.

 

Thanks Eric, and yeah, without these gents I never would have attempted this. And what a great bunch of guys and gals. I think I like you folks more than my own friends

I'll start with "other" Eric's advice and see where it leads me. If it's like my original plan for the engine I should be winding my own stator coils before I'm through

 

I might have heard some weird clunking noises, like hollow pipes, coming from the guest bedroom tonight. I think it might have been Santa

 

OHHH Mac could it be ? New headers ? Pfffft If Santa's starting to come in thru guest bathrooms, I had better get to work PDQ and install one upstairs. Geez if you left a wire brush and denture sealer on the counter do you think Santa would finish the assembly ?

 

If your some sore after wrenching , twisting and bending , I just have to tell ya , I had an empty prescription bottle from when I had a bad flue bug. So I gave it to my wife and asked if she could administer it to me , it said to shake well and be taken orally 3x per day before meals and at bedtime until finished. If symptoms persist keep wrenchin on that car . Oh ya Put-r-ther!!!

 

Lol!

 

Hey folks, there are a couple of bolts (plugs?) on each side of the block, near the engine mount holes, that don't hold anything. I can't find them in the service manual. Are these oil passages of some kind? Curious George here cranked them out a few turns before deciding to ask. Do I need to pull them and put sealer on them?

 

Not sure here but I think they are coolant drains

 

9/16 tool size?
They hold.... your coolant in... or not, as you wish, Handy to fully drain the block for coolant change or engine pulling.

They should seal by tapered pipe thread, but a THIN coat of say Form-a-Gasket #2 non hardening can't hurt. Then just a snug securing and it'll be leakproof and removable.

 

Good Info!!

 

If you want to drain and flush the engine properly, you need to remove these.

When you do, you wil often be amazed by the amount of rust and gunk on the other side.

You can reinstall them with teflon tape, like any pipe thread fitting, which will also make them easy to remove next time.

- Eric

 

Ahh, so like when I first upended the motor on the stand and a deluge of coolant flooded my shop floor? Might have been a good question to ask earlier, huh.
Thanks guys, I'll pull them, clean them, and use tape.

 

You'll be writing a primer for this when you're finished, right?

 

Finished?!