Isn't that wrench hysterical? That's a Master Mechanic 1-1/4".
Hey, I was looking at the Summit Racing ad for these Hedman headers and there's a statement at the bottom that says this:

"33 - Due to engine location will not fit 1970-72 Cutlass Supreme models."

Is this true? I thought I did my homework on these.

 

I have read that it's a myth there is no difference from the a body line from cutlass ,s ,supreme so I would say as long as they fit the cutlass your supreme is fine

On the wrench it comes in handy that size ac fitting a Toyota front end alignments not the size but works well

 

Use the wrench to make the headers fit

 

LOL! See, my wife's a smart ol' gal

 

Thanks dude

 

What are you going to do for exhaust ?

 

Not sure yet. I want the best of both worlds; a nice low rumble and good air flow but quiet inside the car. I've read a lot about the "drone" of X and H pipes and I really don't want that and the wife will refuse to ride in it for long.
Suggestions?

 

The drone is in the mufflers. The x pipe adds a raspy tone. I think the magnaflow system with the x pipe will suit your needs. My buddy has one on his 72 442 with a 350 . Very mellow but sounds great when you hammer on it. The x pipe helps exhaust flow. But if not the super turbo mufflers from dynomax are also very good and not restrictive and very mellow tone. Just buy the flow master pipe kit and add your own mufflers. Or pypes I think their pipe kit is cheaper. I have an x pipe and turn downs at the axle with hooker are chamber mufflers. I don't mind the sound but you can usually hear me coming from 2 blocks away lol.

 

Disregard the warning on the headers.

 

Thanks Eric, I will. I imagine the dipstick gets pretty hot though, it's a tight fit.

Copper, thanks for the advice. Are you saying get a bolt together kit? I don't have a welder. I was going to buy a couple mufflers and two short pieces of pipe for a temp exhaust for the first start and cam break-in and maybe to get me to the muffler shop.

 

Most bolt on kits work well but will need triming. The magnaflow kit is complete. The flowmaster is known for that drone you speak of. I like to turn my clamps so the nuts on the clamps face up. I hate the look of clamps I usually weld my stuff up eventualy. You can use band clamps for a cleaner look but that cost more than welding for me lol.

 

I did not read your whole thread, so I don't know what your engine combo is. But I see shorty headers, correct? I had Hooker AeroChambers on my stock 70 350 with manifolds and 2 1/4 pipes, and it had a nice sound while cruising and a good bark when you got on it.

Now on my current built 350 with long tube headers I've had numerous exhaust combo's, but I'm back to the Aerochambers, H pipe, all in 2 1/2" pipe and they sound TOUGH.

 

You could buy the kit install and then pull it and take it in to get it welded up. I bet it wouldn't cost much, but who knows unless you have a good friend that welds.

 

I was just thinking the same thing oldstata. We have a place we've been using for years so I don't think they'd complain about bringing in my own pipes and mufflers. Especially if I explain I needed them to break in the motor.

Howdy Mr Nick. I don't blame you for not reading the thread. It's gotten a bit long. In a nutshell, I pulled the motor to seal up all the leaks and ended up getting a custom ground cam, new springs and lifters, heads refreshed, performer intake, and now the headers. Thanks for the input

Now, for these headers; gaskets or RTV? Gaskets with the copper adhesive?

 

None just install dry. If you are using the paper gaskets I would buy a set of graphite gasktes instead from flatout gaskets. Paper gaskets suck.

 

Dry? Really? You da boss
The flanges on these things are kinda thin, or they seem to be. 1/4 inch thick or so. And the chrome covers? I have rubber gaskets for those, about 1/8 inch thick. I was thinking of sticking them to the covers [only] with adhesive in case I need them to come off. But it's not like these rockers are adjustable so I'm not sure why I would want to take them off.

 

I use studs on the valve covers and it aids any misalignment issues. I swear by them. I don't use any silicone on my covers . You can use a thin bead on the cover but if belive that's mainly used to make sure things line up. I constantly have things in and out so using studs was a nor brainer.

 

So I'd like to install the intake today but I way don't get this turkey tray gasket. What exactly is supposed to hold that in place while I grab the intake and lower it on? I thought there would be locking tabs or something. It doesn't just lower into place, I have to push it in until the bolt holes line up but if I let go it just springs back out. Should I try to bend it until it fits without holding? I bought the turkey tray because I don't like the idea of the bottom of the intake cooking the oil.

 

The intake won't cook the oil. The oil just heats the intake and it's performance thins. But there should be a flange looking thing on each corner on the bottom side of the gasket where it meets the heads. Try black rtv to hold it in place.

 

Actually, I've read it does both.
But I'll have a look. If it seems sketchy I may go with plain ol' separate gaskets.

 

The turkey tray should have a couple of holes on each side that are punched downward, so that a bit of metal protrudes down I to locating holes in the heads. Push these into the heads and it should hold, though it may require some slight flexing.

- Eric

 

I have ran individual gaskets and never seen oil cooked onto the manifold. You can cut your turkey tray. What I would do I use a small amount of high temp rtv around the ports . Put your intake on then line up the 4 corners with the bolts and start putting the rest of the bolts on.

 

Yeah Eric, I just found these. But I'll have to bend the gasket a little to get them to stay engaged in the holes.

 

I think I'd rather swap them at the parts store than cut the tray. I understand some folks like the tray and some don't.

 

Bend the center over a pipe putting a smal u shape and I mean minimal in the center of the tray and that will help push the sides otward towards the heads.

 

Get a few bolts cut off the heads and use them as a Guide to hold the pan and slide the intake down then in screw as you install others that what I did on my old 350 ten years ago

 

Okay, I used a piece of 2x4 to hold the manifold while I gently did some bending. The holes engage now. Do you guys put the silicone right on the raised areas around the ports or outside the raised areas?

 

Right on them, but thin.

 

Thanks.
I'm test fitting the manifold and these bolt holes are not lining up very well. Maybe he milled more off the heads than I thought. But I doubt that.

 

Thanks.
I'm test fitting the manifold and these bolt holes are not lining up very well. Maybe he milled more off the heads than I thought. But I doubt that.

Update; I just needed to push the manifold down a little harder to get the holes to line up. It's better. Not perfect, but better.

 

"Perfect" is the enemy of "Good."

 

Been meanin to ask.......... do you have a computer on the fender of your car.........

 

Oh ha ha guys. Very funny.
Actually I think I'll spend tonight drawing up plans for a very comfy dog house for the back yard. You know, in case it doesn't run when I'm finished I'll need a place to sleep.

Started painting the block today. This VHT looks great but man, it runs as soon as it hits the surface. It's just the nature of the paint I guess. I'm a pretty good rattle can man but even with small parts that were sanded, carefully degreased, and preheated, this stuff still runs as soon as it hits the surface. Just FYI.

 

Got it Eric, thanks.

 

Gotta use the primer and do tons of light coats. If not what I do is i use yellow first so the gold covers faster. Metallics are thinner vs. Solid colors.

 

The Bill Hirsch doesn't run.

- Eric

 

Too late. All painted
I'll get the intake on tomorrow and I found an interesting write-up on how to paint the headers by heating them with a torch. Or maybe I could use a match to light the paint as it comes out of the can and cut my time in half.

 

Aren't the headers painted already ?

 

You mean that black stuff that chips off with a fingernail? Yeah, I just want something a little more robust.

 

I think that may have to back too. If not the vht header paint works very well and those should fit in your over to bake em. I used the vht header paint and baked em on the car. Hasn't flaked but I have had those headers in and out so many times they need a new coat next time.