Pulling the motor

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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #801  
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I pretty much do all my own stuff. I don't like anyone else doing stuff to my car or even touching it.


This exhaust started as a flowmaster system with no tailpipes I got for free. Then I added an x pipe , then I welded header collector rings to unbolt the mufflers at the track. The x pipe was 75 mufflers where 140 for both.













Old Jan 5, 2014 | 05:12 PM
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How's the weather up there Copper? Pretty nice down here in central. Our court house has closed for the second time in history.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 05:16 PM
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Oh I hear ya on letting others work on our cars, I don't like it either but.... with the shorty headers both Mac and I have It will be hard to fab something up off the collectors that will look neat and tidy, long tube headers have more of a variety to choose from I think. Either way look pretty or not a do it yourself pipe kit will work. I cant get a universal hanger up here for under $25.00 if one didn't come in the kit lol, so I have to pay the price to get what I want. I like that X pipe thou nice job I just don't have the hp to warrant the cost on mine.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 05:17 PM
  #804  
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Oh it's just peachy lol. Spent 2 hrs. clearing snow all morning . I just hope my dailydriver starts with this weather we are supposed to get . I use 15 40 diesel engine oil to get more life out of the oil between oil changes since I drive 500 miles a week. Its hard to start in 5 below but we are supposed to hit 40 below ! Im guessing you guys south are getting hit by the same cold snap most of the eastern half of the country is getting hit by. I need it to be 70 sunny and clear all year round lol.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #805  
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Btw guys im not running flowmasters my exhaust started as a flowmaster kit. I absolutely hate flowmasters. I like my hooker aero chambers they have a very disctintive sound. Im torn between adding tail pipes to this system and add cut outs where I have my mufflers bolted to the x pipe or just starting from scratch with the pypes kit and the cheap thrush turbo mufflers.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
I pretty much do all my own stuff. I don't like anyone else doing stuff to my car or even touching it.


This exhaust started as a flowmaster system with no tailpipes I got for free. Then I added an x pipe , then I welded header collector rings to unbolt the mufflers at the track. The x pipe was 75 mufflers where 140 for both.








Nice toolbox
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 05:32 PM
  #807  
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That's the one I traded in new one is about 2 feet wider and had like 10 more drawers.


Here is a link to my dads car I also did the exhaust on this from the manifolds back. This is 2.25 pipes and thrush turbo mufflers . 26 bucks from summit. The whole exhaust ran us under 200 to do. This is that mild 9 to 1 combo I spoke of it's in my dads car now. No one makes an exhaust for this car but it shares the same frame dimensions as a 95 impala ss. So I ordered the mid pipes and axle cross over pipe from napa for a 95 ss impala and made my own down tubes from the original cross over pipe cut in half and turned to face back.



I posted this for sound purposes so you can get an idea what the turbo mufflers sound like.


Last edited by coppercutlass; Jan 5, 2014 at 05:35 PM.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:15 PM
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Copper this is what I've read ... Hooker aero chamber 2 1/4 in -out- 324 cfm 87db at idle 97db at 2000 rpm 114db at wot . Flowmasters 249 cfm 82- 93-115. Dynomax 278 cfm 83-92-112. Magna flow 284 cfm 82-91-114 all 2 1/4 in -out . Those hookers are the Bomb yes !!! Oh this is thru straight pipes no X or H.

Last edited by 76olds; Jan 5, 2014 at 06:21 PM.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:27 PM
  #809  
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IM not too worried what the muffler flows. I usually run the x pipe wide open at the track no mufflers. Im going to do cheap turbo mufflers. I want my car quiet now lol. specially with what I have in mind. Im going to re paint it and going back to a flat hood non ram air. Im gonna rock some plain black steelies with a whitewall tire. Just to get that granny look but once you lay the hammer it will prove looks can be deceiving . I like to mess with people on the street.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:42 PM
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That sounds pretty sweet Copper. Here's a Chevelle with the Dynomax turbos:


I think it's running 3" pipes though.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:53 PM
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A lot more compression and cam as well it idles similar to mine but mine is way louder lol. I posted the video of my pops because because that engine is essentially like yours only a smidge more of compression. I had the super turbos on my 95 9c1 caprice I had in high school. It sounded nice pretty close imo to the thrush turbo mufflers but too quiet for me. essentially the thrush and dynomax mufflers are the same they are both owned by the same company. The difference between the super turbo and the thrush turbo is the flow directors which are just rounded corners on the inside of the muffler.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
IM not too worried what the muffler flows. I usually run the x pipe wide open at the track no mufflers. Im going to do cheap turbo mufflers. I want my car quiet now lol. specially with what I have in mind. Im going to re paint it and going back to a flat hood non ram air. Im gonna rock some plain black steelies with a whitewall tire. Just to get that granny look but once you lay the hammer it will prove looks can be deceiving . I like to mess with people on the street.
Didn't they used to call those "sleepers"? Used to play hell at the Friday night street drags back in the day.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 06:55 PM
  #813  
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Yes still callin em sleepers lol.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
IM not too worried what the muffler flows. .

I realize that I was just putting the decibel #s up for the sound differences according to what they have posted, I needed to know as well so if I come home to late. I'll need to know how far away from home I need to shut my car off and push it the rest of the way so I don't wake my wife lol . I love it loud as Kiss would say back in the day.
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 10:12 PM
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[QUOTE=Macadoo;637027] I want the low, throaty sound (uh oh, an opening for 76olds to say something crude, lol).
QUOTE]


Sorry for being crude guys, My sense of humor doesn't go over well at times I take it all back in the name of my father inlaw my mother inlaw so help me geez uman.

Last edited by 76olds; Jan 6, 2014 at 06:00 PM.
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 06:00 PM
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[QUOTE=76olds;637291]
Originally Posted by Macadoo
I want the low, throaty sound (uh oh, an opening for 76olds to say something crude, lol).
QUOTE]


Sorry for being crude guys, My sense of humor doesn't go over well at times I take it all back
Just razzin' ya dude, no worries.
KISS eh? They were my first concert but that was a loooonggg time ago.
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 06:08 PM
  #817  
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Hey Mac, I noticed you painted up your pulleys with high gloss paint. they look great, This is a ? to anyone,... I painted mine the same a few years back put the belts on... first trip down the 401 at highway speed I didn't get very far and the belts had jumped off wrapped around the fan!!! Ya really, Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else, I belt sanded the groves and no issues since.
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 06:13 PM
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That's a mis alignment issue. Or you didn't tension it enough. I have had my belt tight and I mean tight but at 6k rpm the belt is like a rubber band. It still flew off. Luckily the stretch of road I give the car a nice work out was 3 block from my house. She gets hot in a hurry .
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 06:22 PM
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I just thought I would throw it out there. I was too afraid to paint the groves after that lol .
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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Actually I had thought about the grooves being too slick and the belts slipping. We shall see.
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 11:32 PM
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I hope it was just that my belts that were a little loose. But I would have a look at your belts after a good city run and see if ther is some paint build up or glazing on the sides of your belts before you let er rip on the highway.
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 04:41 PM
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It's been a helluva couple days. -40* wind chills, blizzard conditions, 9 inches of snow, frozen pipes, cars wouldn't start. They called school but I would have rather been in my office than standing in that wind replacing the battery in my truck. Wasn't getting any fuel (frozen line), no spark (see photo below), and the battery wouldn't take a full charge. I finally got all three cars going, thawed the water pipes, and got a little school work done.
Tomorrow's a new day....right?

[IMG][/IMG]
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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That sucks Mac

Hope it gets better and a bit warmer for you
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #824  
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36 on sat. I'm gonna be wearing shorts lol. I have to drive inbound towards chicago everyday to get to work then eventually I track north. WOOOOOOO doggie saw a lot of hairy accidents and sections of gaurdrails missing where there is a 20 ft. Plus drop. All the schmucks who drive downtown to work are idiots it never fails. How warm is it gonna be down ther sat. Mac. You gonna wear short too lol.
Old Jan 7, 2014 | 06:23 PM
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Thirties down here too Copper. Might seem nice enough to sun on the deck and drink a beer, lol.
Thanks Justin, I was just having a whiny moment. I'm always grumpy when vacation is over. No more long days with the Olds for a while.
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 11:41 AM
  #826  
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I hope you had a better day today Mac. Its been cold here in Toronto as well lots of snow just brutal. Crack a cold one and throw some Johnny Cash on.
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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I got my Remflex graphite header gaskets Anyone know what I should torque the bolts to? The gaskets are 1/8" thick with 50% crush. The stock manifold specs are 25 ft lbs.

Doing okay 76, missed a couple days of prep time because of the storm so we're all a little panicked but I'll manage.
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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[QUOTE=Macadoo;638440]I got my Remflex graphite header gaskets Anyone know what I should torque the bolts to? The gaskets are 1/8" thick with 50% crush. The stock manifold specs are 25 ft lbs.


They say torque to 20 ft lbs if you have a set of feeler gauges that may help once you get close. If not feeler gauges .001 - .05 are inexpensive. I will be doing this in the spring. They also say they may need to be trimmed with an exacto knife did yours look to line up ok ?
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 05:15 PM
  #829  
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I usually snug them up tight them up and give them one full turn. I do this because I like to re use my gaskets as I usually install and remove stuff a lot. I have never had them leak this way. Except for the one set of header gaskets I used like 3 times lol.
Old Jan 8, 2014 | 06:55 PM
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I haven't test fit them yet. Maybe this weekend depending on the weather. Oh wait...shorts right? Lol.
Lol, I read the entire back of the package but missed the big red letters that say TORQUE 20 FT LBS
Of course getting a torque wrench on the inner bolts ain't going to happen. I like the feeler gauge idea but isn't 1/16 inch .065?. I also like the simplicity of Copper's method.
Thanks guys

Last edited by Macadoo; Jan 8, 2014 at 07:02 PM.
Old Jan 9, 2014 | 01:24 PM
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I like the feeler gauge idea but isn't 1/16 inch .065?. I also like the simplicity of Copper's method.



Holy shorts their on the weekend you guys are lucky sounds like it may be getting close to hooter temps!! Maybe a good road trip!!!
Feeler gauge set have increments of 1 thou up to 50 thou not sure what you mean by .065 but 1/ 16 is
1 divided by 16 = .0625 you were close Mac, I like coppers way as well, he does this all the time so I think were good with his methods. Thanks copper it will help me as well.

Last edited by 76olds; Jan 9, 2014 at 01:31 PM.
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 12:37 PM
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Crap, I forgot to clean the stove paint from the mating surfaces on one of the headers. Copper, should I yank it back off or leave well enough alone? I went with the 20 ft. lbs. but I don't think I went a full turn after tightening.
Any yeah 76, you're correct on the .0625. I was going by memory. Not the best idea with my 50 year old brain

Last edited by Macadoo; Jan 10, 2014 at 12:39 PM.
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 12:58 PM
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Don't worry I'm 25 and forget crap all the time. Your fine with paint on the surface of the header flange. Usually get one ful turn but I just snug em up tight enough to where the are not moving but you can slide em somewhat.

Last edited by coppercutlass; Jan 10, 2014 at 05:54 PM.
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Just throwing another tool into the mix ... http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-...ler-93684.html Naturally mine's a touch better quality since we don't have HF up here and Princess Auto doesn't seem to want to deal with K-Bec.

I can't work without one of these stuck in my pocket. That little slidy pocket clip just comes in so handy as a depth gauge/caliper .. and it has all the decimal equivalences written on the back.
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 01:50 PM
  #835  
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It goes right here with this stuff.


Old Jan 10, 2014 | 03:43 PM
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i haven't been on this board in a couple years , but i'm glad i stopped in and found this thread.
Mac , you do nice work , and you ask some really good questions.
It would not hurt to check the torque on your header bolts , intake , valve cover , oil pan bolts etc. after the motor has had a heat cycle or two.
comp ratio seemed lower than i expected with those shim head gaskets and the fact that you did cc the combustion chambers.
been working on and running my 350 olds since 1968 so this thread was fun to read ..
Keep up the good work
tony
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #837  
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I think your all good with 20 ft lbs , Our gaskets have a .062 tapper around the bolt holes or tapered countersink if you prefer .03 each side, This allows the gaskets to take the 50% crush before bottoming out and cracking the graphite. I think if you GIVER too much it may crack the gasket. A .001 feeler gauge would be good I think. Or a piece of paper although paper is about .003 just to check. Maybe Copper can chime back in on what I think!!! He uses them all the time!!

Last edited by 76olds; Jan 10, 2014 at 04:13 PM.
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 05:53 PM
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I have never messed up a header gasket. I usually do the one turn trick and I have used the felpros and the thinner flatout gaskets . Im used to doing it so much I usually know the "sweet spot " Kinda like carb bolts or the valve cover bolts , or bell housing or flex plate to converter bolts. I never use a tq. wrench on those but im yet to have one get loose on me . Don't sweat the small stuff.
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 06:49 PM
  #839  
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Thumbs up

I'm only speaking for myself here, but myself being 47 last month I tend to start sweating the small stuff with age lol !! Its good to have younger guys around to help old guys like me not to sweat it . Put-r-ther !!!
Old Jan 10, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tonycpe
i haven't been on this board in a couple years , but i'm glad i stopped in and found this thread.
Mac , you do nice work , and you ask some really good questions.
It would not hurt to check the torque on your header bolts , intake , valve cover , oil pan bolts etc. after the motor has had a heat cycle or two.
comp ratio seemed lower than i expected with those shim head gaskets and the fact that you did cc the combustion chambers.
been working on and running my 350 olds since 1968 so this thread was fun to read ..
Keep up the good work
tony
Thanks for the kind words Tony. I never would have guessed when I bought this car (as part of my bucket list) that I would have so much fun and meet so many cool people here at CO. I wanted to do good work but after finding this forum I've been inspired to do great work. And it wouldn't have been possible without the help I get here.



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