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Spent today putting the front end back together. I can pretty much guarantee the factory did these steps in a much different and more efficient order!
I had my headlight housings bolted to the core support. I had to loosen the two bolts to gain access to the bolt for the grille. I mocked everything up, including the plastic headlight housings, and then started with the grilles then working towards the fenders. I aligned the grilles with the screws.
If you are using new or NOS parts, I would recommend threading the plastic parts while they're off the car to prevent added stress on the plastic.
I also mounted the NOS front side marker lights with gaskets from Fusick.
NOS plastic headlight housings.
1 of 3 phosphated connecting screws. I have seen these in argent, but all of mine were phosphate.
NOS grilles with original anchor head bolts rephosphated.
NOS headlight bezels. I reused the eight original factory screws.
As I mentioned last night, the RH hockey stick is pissing me off. It has a tiny gap between the hood and it doesn't even extend to the end of the tooth. I'm searching for a different RH moulding to try. I'm less concerned about the fender chrome lining up with the hood chrome since it was like that from the factory, per the photos I have of the car before tearing it down.
Installed the front side markers. Brackets were blasted and painted. Speed nuts were soaked in Evaporust and replated.
Hard to see it in this picture but the hood tooth feels like it is being pulled inward. I am going to remove the RH hockey stick today and see what that does to the tooth in terms of pushing it back to its default "resting" position.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 3rd, 2020 at 06:53 AM.
Any advice on how to adjust this so that gap goes away?
You can see, and you note it in the next post, that your nose is pushed in at the bottom, and isn't perpendicular to the ground. I had the same issue with mine, and the cure was a bit of two things - pushing out/bending the metal edge of the underside of the hood lip such that when the hockey stick was installed (without the nose on the hood) the lower dogleg part of the hockey stick pointed straight down, not slightly inwards. The other adjustment was to the metal lip on the top of the nose and the metal on the hood to which it attaches - bending each slightly until the nose again pointed straight down. That was all I needed to get a tight fit of the chrome and get the nose to point straight down.
Last edited by BSiegPaint; September 3rd, 2020 at 06:27 PM.
The car has been back at the house for 5 days now. I underestimated just how tough it would be to work on a car with perfect paint. Every step has to be well thought out and planned. It’s fun and stressful all at the same time.
Today I mounted the voltage regulator and capacitor. Three screws for the firewall were replated clear zinc.
I had my wife help me mount the back drive rod that goes from the steering column “ear” to the rod connected to the frame. I still need to order the correct keys from AMK.
I swapped out alternators to a 0 A alternator that is a more correct date for a first week of March build.
Wiper motor went on as well. Just three replated bolts. Next week I’ll look at the transmission arms and how all of that connects.
Finally, I put the NOS detent cable and NOS throttle cable through the firewall in to the interior. I mistakenly put the detent cable in too soon. I needed to put the clip in for the cable to the transmission fill tube. Oops. Luckily, I was able to squeeze the two prongs from the inside, remove it from the firewall, and route the cable properly between the fill tube, block, and vacuum advance hose. All good now!
I also pulled the light harness out of the bag from Lectric Limited. Should be an easy hook up. I connected the lights and placed it where it’ll route. I’ll finish that up this weekend.
Biggest thing for the weekend is to roll the car on to the driveway and blow off the remaining body shop dust.
Two NOS relays. One original cover and one replated cover.
Wiper motor installation.
Beautifully restored alternator by Patton.
Throttle cable and detent cable.
I still need to get a grommet for the blower motor wire.
Regulator with the capacitor. Lucked out finding a Jan 70 NOS regulator. That angle is at the direction of the PIM...not sure if that’s correct.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:57 PM.
You can see, and you note it in the next post, that your nose is pushed in at the bottom, and isn't perpendicular to the ground. I had the same issue with mine, and the cure was a bit of two things - pushing out/bending the metal edge of the underside of the hood lip such that when the hockey stick was installed (without the nose on the hood) the lower dogleg part of the hockey stick pointed straight down, not slightly inwards. The other adjustment was to the metal lip on the top of the nose and the metal on the hood to which it attaches - bending each slightly until the nose again pointed straight down. That was all I needed to get a tight fit of the chrome and get the nose to point straight down.
Great drawing! Thank you for that. I’ll give it a try as I get closer to the finish line. I went through a ton of factory photos from ‘70, and they all show that hood tooth “tuck.” I’m guessing the tuck was just the nature of the beast. I prefer the 71/72 front ends much more because of this reason.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:56 PM.
Great drawing! Thank you for that. I’ll give it a try as I get closer to the finish line. I went through a ton of factory photos from ‘70, and they all show that hood tooth “tuck.” I’m guessing the tuck was just the nature of the beast. I prefer the 71/72 front ends much more because of this reason.
Plus after gouging your head when it hits that tooth a few times you'll really hate it
Great drawing! Thank you for that. I’ll give it a try as I get closer to the finish line. I went through a ton of factory photos from ‘70, and they all show that hood tooth “tuck.” I’m guessing the tuck was just the nature of the beast. I prefer the 71/72 front ends much more because of this reason.
Yeah, I did the same digging around before finishing mine, since mine dipped in far enough to scrape the grille edges... advertisements show a straight nose, some magazine articles show straight. I took about 100 photos of noses at the last Homecoming as well - they're all over the place. None of the factory pics show the hood chrome lining up correctly with the fenders, which was a relief lol. I finished mine pretty much straight down, and I figure in a few years, with all the opening and closing of the hood that will happen, it will start to bend in by itself...
Notice the position of the hood pins in this commercial as well
Pushed the car on to the driveway to use the compressor to blow some dust out of a few areas. Gotta love the nice September weather in Chicago!
Installed the rear side markers. My car had the yellow zinc nuts from the factory so I had them correctly replated.
The dash is back in the car. Still a long way to go assembling the glovebox, radio, and gauges. I love the original woodgrain over the reproduction, and the blue paint on the dash pad as well as the metal portion look spot on. I managed to give the interior and trunk areas a thorough wiping down with hot soapy water. I buffed the door jambs and installed a set of NOS vents. The RH side fit perfect but the LH side has a tiny gap. I need to dig out the original and see what the issue is.
Finished routing the light harness. This was an area I took super detailed pictures of before tearing it down.
I also swapped out power steering hardware to the correct plating. I’ll share that after MCACN
Frame were sandblasted and refinished in black.
I love this angle showing the XT wheel, exhaust tip, and stripes.
Need to figure out the fitment issue on the LH vent.
The LH door has the WORST squeak when cranking the window down. Where should I apply lube to eliminate the noise? I suppose I should read the chassis service manual...
More cleaning today.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:56 PM.
Spent a good chunk of the afternoon thrashing only to pick it back up this evening for a bit. I wanted to tackle the front door panels and get the reflectors and trim installed. I think the cardboard Legendary uses is significantly thicker than what the factory used! I can already tell the tiny holes for the S emblem will require me to bore the cardboard a bit just to get the spinner on the back.
I used an awl I ordered from Amazon to poke holes from the backside. It was still a challenge to find the actual hole through the carpet on the front for the reflector.
I had removed the stainless trim from the originals to have it polished professionally. Again, hard to line up the bent prongs with the holes in the panel! And to make matters worse, Legendary skipped the template for two of the holes so those had to be created on the fly. When I compared these to the original panels, the carpet didn’t go as high up on the ones from the factory. That would have made a world of difference. They are still beautiful panels, though!
I wonder if a soldering iron may have worked better to poke through once the hole was punctured with the awl. What have you guys used?
Original reflector and trim.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:56 PM.
If you are talking about a loose fit on the vent, years ago I remember seeing foam gaskets included with NOS vents. They were like 1/8" and shaped like the inner perimeter of the vent. I don't ever recall finding them on cars, though. There were a lot of gaskets like that like on the air cleaner sensor, the accelerator cable, etc. They have just disintegrated now, even on NOS stuff. I typically use a pick to make holes. The panels on my 67 GS have a similar type chrome trim. I'm fairly positive Legendary included a tool to make the holes for the chrome. Unfortunately, I didn't find it until I was done!
This spring I installed new carpetting in my 66 Vert. I would locate hole position with an "awl" and then complete the hole with a "pencil" style solder iron. No stringers. Worked out fine. Haven't tried this on any other material. BTW, I sure enjoy keeping up with your build. Looking really great.
I wrapped up the RH side door panel today and completed about half the work for the LH side. For anyone doing their panels, measure the distance for the emblems because Legendary gives you recommended holes that are way off. I made a template for anyone doing a Cutlass S...if you need it send me a PM.
Be prepared to scrape the back of the cardboard to get the retainer on the back of the emblem stud. The cardboard is thicker than the factory! I’d also recommend poking a tiny hole from the back and then making it larger pushing from the front to the back. This will keep the front of the panel from pulling the glue.
I have to cut some holes for the LH side just like the RH side.
Stencil made from the original panel.
Original S emblems.
Finished RH panel. All factory hardware.
Hope to get the dust shields and front panels installed this week so I can start clearing out parts from the house!
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:55 PM.
Very nice!! The door panels look great! How well does the Legendary Door Panel Wood Grain match the OEM Burl Wood Grain that's on the Dash?
Brad
I will take a side by side picture of the woodgrain on panels. There may be a slight difference between the factory panel and the Legendary but I didn't notice it.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
I will take a side by side picture of the woodgrain on panels. There may be a slight difference between the factory panel and the Legendary but I didn’t notice it.
Im thinking if you of all people didn't notice then there is no difference
I wanted to reuse the original rubber for the front air dam. The rubber was really beat up, but like all the other factory rubber, this one is just different in appearance than the reproduction. I used the Flex polisher with a 3" brush attachment along with some rubber cleaner and Dawn soap. The key is to keep rinsing until the suds are white in color. Each side took 4-5 passes to get clean. You can see the white fibers in the rubber which looks really cool.
I also started in on the factory wiper transmission arms (I think that is what they are called). I removed the two nuts, the plates, and the black plate. I know @Ap6954 had a 1 and 2 on his plates. Mine were both 1. I used steel wool on the pieces and then a coat of black paint on the top plate. The arms and pivots are soaking in Evaporust. I hope to have them finished this week since it is a blocker on the mesh and rubber weatherstripping.
I also gave the radiator another pass with the red scotchbrite. I may regret this, but I'm going to use a tiny bit of filler on a few areas. Again, once this gets painted, it will set off a series of other parts that can be installed.
Before.
Another before shot of the other side.
Scrub-a-dub-dub.
After.
After.
Re-cored 4 core.
K dated CI tank.
Some restored wiper transmission parts.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:54 PM.
Tonight I worked on the factory wiper transmission arms. They bath in Evaporust did wonders. I followed it up with a toothbrush to get all the old grease out of the tiny ball joints. I’ll hit them with a spray of white grease when I reassemble. I almost left the black arms as they were but there were two spots where the paint had scraped off. I makes the pivots and shot the arms with Eastwood Underwood black.
I also spent some time sanding some filler I used on the radiator tank. I may regret using the filler since I don’t know how it’ll do with the heat, but for the time being, I’ll take my chances. I hope to have the radiator in paint before I head out of town this weekend for a family vacation.
Still a long way to go on the radiator.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; October 26th, 2020 at 03:23 PM.
Took the tape off the wiper transmissions. They turned out nice. I just finished using steel wool on the area visible through the cowl. I need to install the pieces for the pivot closest to the motor, and then I’ll hopefully get everything put back where it goes.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; February 5th, 2021 at 07:14 AM.
I ordered the pretty turquoise rear quarter plugs and went to install them today...and low and behold the original plugs are the flat circles.
1.) Does anyone make these? Assuming not, which is fine.
2.) Were the flat plugs also painted in the turquoise color?
I also installed the NOS engine harness today. I’m trying to look at original cars for the specific routing of the wires.
3.) I need to look at the PIM in the morning, but if anyone knows off the top of their head, does the plastic clip push in to the valve cover bracket from the underside?
Here’s a look at the door jamb vent that won’t sit right.
Thanks to my friend Gene for hooking me up with this NOS rocket for the deck lid. I’ll get this on tomorrow.
This harness has the white clip for the valve cover bracket.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; October 26th, 2020 at 03:23 PM.
Installed the wiper transmission tonight. I am assuming that once the nut (for the motor to the mounting plate attached to the transmission) is tightened, the only way the arms will move is when the motor has power. Do I have that right? The other thing I’m questioning (haven’t had a chance to look at the PIM) is the length of the bolt for the wiper pump to the firewall. I think all three bolts were the same size but now I’m questioning that.
Big thanks to my friend Patton for helping me on the quarter drain plugs. The rubber washer from ILT is a perfect match to the originals. You can see the color of the flat plug on the backside.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; October 26th, 2020 at 03:23 PM.
Jimmy, I have to say I love, love, love that harness! The wiper connector is one thing that drives me crazy on high end restos with aftermarket harnesses. The wiper connector on those is like a pinkish orange, it's hideous. I redo my own harnesses. The vent should like hook in on the bottom. Sometimes, they seem like they are hooked and they aren't. The metal there around the striker is like double thickness. The motor, I don't know...a 69 has a plate behind it. I'm sure you have a gasket there right?
Jimmy - What Frank just said....check those vents to see if the slight "step" along the bottom inside of the vent (the part that slips inside the opening) is in fact properly over the metal opening lip. They can be stubborn.
Wiper motor to firewall bolts are two different lengths (from what I can tell by looking at my collection of replated bolts for those)....I just don't recall if it's "two short, one longer" or "one short, two longer". AMK sells these but they sell you a bag of only longer bolts.
Before heading out of town for the weekend I knocked out a few items around the cowl. Today I installed the wiper transmission, the stainless moulding, wiper arms, NOS Trico wiper blades, original mesh with replated phosphate bolts, and original cowl seal with NOS clips.
Lesson learned on the wiper arm install. For the recessed arms, place the LH side (since that’s the first side you start with) below the rest on the moulding, tighten the bracket to the motor with the nut, and then lift the wiper arm over the rear. I think I have the RH side where it needs to be...it at least matches location on survivor cars I have documented.
I left a bit of the factory sealer on the mesh and the rubber seal since it’s called out in the PIM. The NOS metal push clips came from eBay and installed nicely.
It feels good to finally get some stuff knocked out. I’m still trying to focus on just the cowl forward for the time being. Still need to finish the radiator, wiring, etc., but that will need to wait until next weekend.
Took a couple years to track down a pair of these blades.
Slight remnants of the factory sealer on the cowl mesh.
Hard to see because of the lighting but factory style clips for the cowl rubber. I also reused the factory screws for the stainless moulding. Hard to see it here but the hood trim has the slight dull area to it.
Restored seal.
What I believe to be the correct plating for the wiper transmission to the cowl.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:34 PM.
Back from some time away from the garage. I'm still focused on getting the engine compartment and cowl buttoned up.
Restored an original BR 292 coil for the car. Fingers crossed the coil actually works. If not, I'll do the same process for the other 292s. Masked the top, sanded to bare metal, filler in one spot, primed and painted with Eastwood's underhood black.
This is the capacitor for the radio that connects to the coil. The left is from ILT (really nice part!) and the right is either an original or NOS capacitor (can't recall!). I took some 0000 steel wool to it and cleaned up the outer surface of the capacitor. Cool to see the subtle differences between the reproduction.
Studying the wire routing. The RH side of the valve cover apparently is the path for the TCS wire so I’ll be adjusting what fits in the plastic loop.
Hat tip to Ray for his recommendation on how to recreate the date code on the OAI base.
It isn't perfect but it'll play for now.
For this, I used a tiny brush to paint the rubber portion of the wooden stamp. Then I would take the wooden stamp and lightly press it against the base.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:49 PM.
Not knocking your restoration one bit. And I know the air cleaner dates won't likely be seen by anyone, but may I suggest...
21972E Acapulco in the Apple Barrel paint colors looks closer to the original color for the date code stamps, IMO. More of an aqua color. Again, JMO. Maybe it's the monitor colors messing with me, who knows?
Also, if you want to get a closer font to original, the font is called "Century". (Not Century Schoolbook or Century Gothic, etc., just plain "Century") Not sure how you order or get your rubber stamps made, but if they can pick a font, Century is the closest I've seen. Example:
Tiny stencils may work, but would lose that "stamped" look that I think makes them look more authentic. Again, JMO. Plus, picking out the centers of the 0, 4, 6, 8, and 9 after painting would be a royal PITA.
Just my musings and observations. You may think otherwise.
I thought the same thing until I saw his original date code stamp on the air cleaner....sure enough, the color was the "greenish" you see in his pic. Personally, I've seen more original air cleaner stampings in the "aqua" color but Jimmy's original stamping wasn't that color.
Not knocking your restoration one bit. And I know the air cleaner dates won't likely be seen by anyone, but may I suggest...
21972E Acapulco in the Apple Barrel paint colors looks closer to the original color for the date code stamps, IMO. More of an aqua color. Again, JMO. Maybe it's the monitor colors messing with me, who knows?
Also, if you want to get a closer font to original, the font is called "Century". (Not Century Schoolbook or Century Gothic, etc., just plain "Century") Not sure how you order or get your rubber stamps made, but if they can pick a font, Century is the closest I've seen. Example:
Tiny stencils may work, but would lose that "stamped" look that I think makes them look more authentic. Again, JMO. Plus, picking out the centers of the 0, 4, 6, 8, and 9 after painting would be a royal PITA.
Just my musings and observations. You may think otherwise.
Outstanding work, regardless.
Thanks for sharing the fonts. As you can see from this picture showing the original base, the green color I used is pretty darn close. I know the Acapulco color you're referring to and this is not it.
Nice detail on the differences in fonts! Where did you get your stamp made to reproduce the date, and can I see a picture of how yours turned out with the Century font?
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:50 PM.
Thanks for sharing the fonts. As you can see from this picture showing the original base, the green color I used is pretty darn close. I know the Acapulco color you’re referring to and this is not it.
Nice detail on the differences in fonts! Where did you get your stamp made to reproduce the date, and can I see a picture of how yours turned out with the Century font?
I did not do mine. I just know you're a stickler for being as close to factory as possible. I have a 70 ram air cleaner in the shop I haven't even looked at yet to see if there's a date code still on it, but I've never owned a 70 Cutlass or 442. I think the air cleaner may have been repainted, but again, I don't know. I haven't pulled it out of the box in over 20 years. I just remember it having the stamped drain holes in the bottom.
I was just looking at other examples of 1970 date codes and noted the fonts they used and remember a lot of them being more of an aqua color and not too green when they weren't faded. May have been faded green perhaps to more of an aqua look? I never noted it that closely, TBH. Not sure exactly what font GM used back then, but Century seems to be the closest I've seen that could come close to replicating it today. I was simply suggesting what I thought might be closer match to original was all. If the green matches better in person, by all means, use it!
EDIT:
Doing further research, I ran across a "stencil" font that looks closer to the original stamping, but not quite. Some of the numbers don't correspond with the stampings and they also have a space cutting the numbers vertically in half for the most part. If you could mash up the "Century" with the "stencil" font, I think it'd be darn close.
Here's a sample of "Stencil" font on top, and "Century" font on the bottom and typed out example of your date code in each version. Paint may just cover up the spacing in the "stencil" font anyway. Might be an interesting adventure if someone was willing to do further research.
Last edited by 69HO43; September 15th, 2020 at 03:59 PM.
Small hit list today. Routed the engine harness and wired up the coil and a few other items. Tucked the harness in the RH clip on the valve cover.
Put the correct clip in place on the alternator for the wires.
Worked on the OAI vacuum hoses. I compared the lengths of hoses on two untouched adapters. I came up with the following numbers.
short hose: 12.25"
snorkel to base: 21"
motor: 23.25"
I'm sure if those are off, someone will correct me.
I also did a little more dusting, too.
Finally, I put the heater hoses in place. When I clamped the hoses in place to the pump and intake I just used pliers. It sucked. So, I ordered a pair of hose clamp pliers. GAME CHANGER! These things were awesome to use.
Tomorrow should be a big day. My restored horns have been in Minore's W-31 since the car debuted at MCACN so I will be glad to get them back. Once those are in, I'll drop the radiator in, hook up the trans lines, clamp the hoses, and install the top plate.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:51 PM.
Resprayed the coil a more glossy finish and put it back on the car. I also cleaned up the original hardware and referenced the service manual which shows the correct angle / placement of the wires.
Radiator is close to going in. I did a test fit today and everything looked good.
I experimented with a hose stamp for the heater hose from the pump to the firewall. Putting stamps on the rubber hoses is easier said than done. It's a pain to stamp a round surface. I actually like the look of how it turned out since it isn't perfect.
Swapped the wiper pump bolts (thanks Patton for the placement from your car).
Horns went in today, too. AMK carries the correct clear zinc star washer for those in need. I had to tweak the clips on the core support so the horn wires could route per the PIM. All good now.
Radiator tomorrow morning.
OP stamp.
Still digging that green date stamp on the base.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:52 PM.
I love this angle showing the XT wheel, exhaust tip, and stripes.
That 1/4 panel will get peppered with 100's of rocks & debris if the car is street driven. Do yourself a favor and place the clear 3M film protection on the entire lower portion of the car from the front fender, door and rear 1/4 panel. The factory design is just bad when it comes to being angled in such a way to have the front and rear tires throw every rock and debris encountered on the roadway. Otherwise, the lower portion of the car will have rock chips. The more you street drive, the more it will get chipped. The 3M film is transparent but it will protect the paint.
I hope I don't offend anyone by asking a question on this restoration ( which is great!!) I am new to this site and and would like to know where the NOS parts are purchased.
I hope I don't offend anyone by asking a question on this restoration ( which is great!!) I am new to this site and and would like to know where the NOS parts are purchased.
No harm in your question. NOS is an acronym for new old stock parts. There are a few sites online that specialize in NOS parts. With that being said, you really need to know what you're looking for and where to look. eBay is a good source, too. A lot of these NOS parts are 40 to 50 years old and difficult to come by. When you do find them, they're usually on the higher end of the price scale. Hope that helps.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; September 21st, 2020 at 02:52 PM.
I hope I don't offend anyone by asking a question on this restoration ( which is great!!) I am new to this site and and would like to know where the NOS parts are purchased.
Quick answer ; Anywhere you can find them .
NOS parts are parts that were made by General Motors years ago as spare parts .
They were kept in dealerships and body shops and never sold or used .
E-Bay is probably the best place to look . When many GM dealerships were closed in 2008 , many of these parts stocks were sold to E-Bayers'
Set up a " saved search " on E-Bay for ( make and year ) NOS parts .
Keep checking E-Bay daily . They will also e-mail you when new items appear .
Swap meets , especially Olds related swap meets are another good source .
Hemmings Motor News is full of ads for parts
Do you belong to the Oldsmobile Club Of America ? Their publication , Journey With Olds , also has many ads for Olds parts .
And finally , this forum has a parts for sale section where NOS parts are often offered .
Yesterday I put the radiator in. It was sitting too high upon initial install. I pulled the rubber from the core support, placed them along the bottom of the radiator, and let the radiator sit in them for a few days. This seemed to help a bit. I also used a fair amount of dish soap inside the top and bottom rubber so the radiator would slide right in to position.
Moved on to the top plate. I unbolted the two bolts at the bottom of the core so I could pull the shroud up a bit to the top plate. This worked out well. Once the top plate was bolted in, I was able to pull the shroud down and get the bottom two bolts in place.
Next, I moved on to the trans lines. The bottom one fit without issue. The top line in to the radiator wasn’t as cooperative. I finally ended up getting it in. I used a 7/16” wrench behind the 1/2” threaded end so that I could apply pressure from behind. This finally did the trick.
NOS upper and lower hoses installed. I am using a spring inside the lower hose that I might go back and trim a bit since the coil seemed to penetrate the water pump outlet which tells me it may be too long.
I used the new pliers I picked up on Amazon to close the pinch clamps on the power steering hoses. The PIM calls out the distance to place the clamp. I also had to loosen the 5/8” threaded line to the pump so that I could adjust the angle of the hose for proper clearance around the rag joint. All good now.
I tightened the tiny screws in the core support for the headlight harness grounds. I tried to scrape the paint off around the hole as best as I could. Anyone have a good method for that without ruining too much paint?
Last things for the engine compartment are the brake lines to the MC, vacuum T for the OAI adapter (hoses are all in place), grease pencil markings for the ‘W-31,’ and then the inner fenders. Still a lot to get done but a pretty significant dent yesterday.
Finally, I cleaned up the front air dam plastic and rubber so I could push the staples through. My thumb is still feeling it! Now to just figure out a way to bend the damn staples! Anyone have a suggestion? I am sticking with the staples.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; October 26th, 2020 at 03:18 PM.
September 2nd, 2020, 07:16 PM
