When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I used Wonderbarman in Alamo TN to rebuild my AM/FM. Gorgeous work, slow, and expensive. But I'd use him again. The radio sounds incredible. He offers lots of options to integrate a Delco radio into a modern system. Note added later: I'm not finding this supplier on line any more. His health wasn't good and he was near retirement when I used him.
JV Restorations did a good, fast job for my speakers. Reasonable cost.
Last edited by VC455; October 20th, 2019 at 01:52 PM.
The original console is in pretty good condition. No cracks which is fortunate. I had a heck of a time getting the “lower” trim off. I’m convinced the worker twisting the metal tabs was having a bad day when he did this console. Luckily, I only managed to snap one of the front tabs off so I’ll consider it a win.
I am using an NOS trim piece for the upper part of the console. Since I don’t have have the plastic rivets, nor the ability to sand and refinish the aluminum, I sent the console out to Jeff @ H&H. As for the woodgrain inserts, I’m going to reuse the original burlwood grain on the shifter top plate since it’s mint. The piece that runs the front of the console will be removed and installed on a new plastic chrome appliqué from Fusick. I’m going to start heating it tonight, and we’ll see how it comes off!
Strange NOS piece here. It came without the black paint so that'll need to be refinished after the aluminum has been refinished.
I referenced this in an earlier post in this thread, but you can see the different "shades" of blue on the console due to its material.
All hardware for the console has been reconditioned. The lens was cleaned with hot soapy water and the screws were soaked in Evaporust. For whatever reason, the lens screws, and the lens itself, were incredibly rusty. The silver trim will need to be re-outlined with a marker.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; October 22nd, 2019 at 07:26 AM.
F*ck FedEx. My console made it to Ohio today with an unfortunate crack on the backside. Jeff is going to do his best at repairing it, but it’s just frustrating as hell to see a clean original console crack like that.
That really stinks. Im sure H&H will be able to fix that crack. Were you planning to have them paint it? That blue is interesting.
Yes, the console had faded over the years and needed to be resprayed. I spoke to Jeff tonight about making sure the vinyl piece of the console is painted a different shade than the blue. I believe the middle section was prepared and painted separately from the other pieces of the console. Still sucks that it cracked, though!
Tonight I tackled the woodgrain insert for the console. The original burlwood on my car was in near mint condition on the dash, console, and top plate so I wanted to preserve it. I like Jeff’s H&H products, but for this project, I wanted to try and keep the original pieces. The reproduction woodgrain is very nice, but the original is distinct.
I ordered a new plastic chrome insert from Fusick. It’s pictured below on the right. The original is on the left.
The original plastic is just a touch longer than the reproduction. The original woodgrain hangs over the new plastic piece by maybe an 1/8".
I grabbed a heat gun and heated up the back of the original plastic to loosen the glue. There are holes on the back of the original plastic that you can gently push up on the metal backing to help separate it. I had my wife hold the heat gun while I carefully pulled the metal back.
It’s important to note that the original plastic insert will likely get destroyed in this process. In my case, it was in rough condition anyways so it wasn't a huge loss. I'm sure it could have been saved had I used a blow dryer and spent an hour or two of my night but I wasn't willing to do that.
I heated the glue on the back of the metal and then applied it to the new plastic. I had to find something around the house for weighing it down; hopefully my daughter doesn’t need her board game in the morning!
Finished product.
You can see the wood hanging over by a smidge in this last image. It should hopefully be a non issue when I drop it back in to the finished console in a few weeks.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; October 24th, 2019 at 11:40 AM.
Fantastic restoration over the top .But we have to remember we are dealing with 1970 cars that were built in 1970.
We cannot go back to 1970 but we all do the best we can to bring them back.
Alain
Good point. When these vehicles were built, the quality control was pretty bad compared to modern cars. Remember, a 1970 vehicle was built and sold with the intent that they would last maybe 3-4 years before it would be discarded. The odometers didn't even register over 99,999 miles as the vehicle would be junked way before hitting 100,000 miles. Compared to modern cars which easily go over 100,000 miles and without ever having a major repair.
These types of restoration is too OCD for me. To replicate chalk marks, design flaws and safety design flaws in the name of originality doesn't make sense to me but to each their own.
Good point. When these vehicles were built, the quality control was pretty bad compared to modern cars. Remember, a 1970 vehicle was built and sold with the intent that they would last maybe 3-4 years before it would be discarded. The odometers didn't even register over 99,999 miles as the vehicle would be junked way before hitting 100,000 miles. Compared to modern cars which easily go over 100,000 miles and without ever having a major repair.
These types of restoration is too OCD for me. To replicate chalk marks, design flaws and safety design flaws in the name of originality doesn't make sense to me but to each their own.
I cannot remember because I wasn't born until 1984. I'll take your word, though. But, like you said, to each their own.
W31:
I bought the boot from GMpartsgiant.com; they had a closeout price of $8 for the genuine GM part, although, with shipping & handling BS it was almost as much as the Inline Tube part. I don't completely remember the R&R process, but I vaguely remember trying to remove the pressed on ring without success. I think I just slipped the boot over the ring onto the end of the intermediate shaft. The GM part was well made, the rubber was fairly thick. Sorry I couldn't be more specific.
Rodney
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,721
Originally Posted by pettrix
Since this is an ultra stock rebuild with no modifications allowed. The engine probably is making 280HP or thereabouts so it's not really news worthy.
I see this excellent restoration going on, then I see the W31 on the dyno, I get excited, of course I'am going be very curious. I just went through 150 pages of thread on another forum and no dyno data. I always post the full dyno data. So what does a good W31 restoration make for power? I guess I can ask Gary over at Level One.
Rodney, thanks for the photo! Was your new boot from Inline Tube? And how did you go about removing the ring?
Rodney/Jimmy, I have replaced three of them without removing the pin. You grease up the boot and slowly work it around where the pin intersects the shaft. But, now knowing it can be removed, I'll definitely try it on the next one I do.
I see this excellent restoration going on, then I see the W31 on the dyno, I get excited, of course I'am going be very curious. I just went through 150 pages of thread on another forum and no dyno data. I always post the full dyno data. So what does a good W31 restoration make for power? I guess I can ask Gary over at Level One.
[QUOTEGood point. When these vehicles were built, the quality control was pretty bad compared to modern cars. Remember, a 1970 vehicle was built and sold with the intent that they would last maybe 3-4 years before it would be discarded. The odometers didn't even register over 99,999 miles as the vehicle would be junked way before hitting 100,000 miles. Compared to modern cars which easily go over 100,000 miles and without ever having a major repair.][/QUOTE]
I wouldn't completely agree whith that. When I hear comments like that it's usually from someone that wasn't around then and really didn't know. I wasn't either except as a young boy, but I can tell you my family had a 1968 Olds 98 that stayed in the family from new till the early 80's. Passed several times from family members including my abuse driving older brother. It flipped the odometer twice and was sold with 210,000 miles. Main problem was timing chain jumped and had to replaced at 90k which isn't suprising since they used nylon gears to keep noise down. My first Olds was a 1970 cutlass with over 100k. it had 60k miles on the odometer but by the wear on the gas and break pedal it was most likely 160k, Now mind you it did run horrible and engine needed rebuilding. Also my dad was a mechanic and took care of our cars regularly. Carb rebuilds, plugs, tune ups. I personally believe the main reason a lot of these cars didn't last over a 100k was lack of proper regular maintenance. Unlike new cars which can go 100k before plugs and because of electronic fuel injection which is superior, can adjust and adapt to vacuum leaks, other engine related changes, or lack of maintenace.
While the suspension handling wasn't the greatest on the the older cars, new cars suspensions are engineered to just make it to warranty at best. Ask anyone who had a car back then if they had to replace control arm bushings or tie rod ends as much as we do on cars now.
Not looking to start a war here, just bringing up a point. There are good things and bad things when comparing new and older cars, but don't make comments that are not back by facts or data. I'd also bring up the reality of cost to repair cars then to now. Cars now are safer, overall more reliable, but they were simpler back then. They required less special tools and equipment to maintain and repair. If your points fell off the contacts you could gap them with a cigarette pack and get home. You loose a crank position sensor or ignition module fails on your car now and your walking home. Also I bet if you did proper research your probably going to find out that people didn't drive as much then as they do now. More stay at home moms and we as kids didn't do all the activities kids do now that require driving. It was safe to ride your bike to your friends a couple streets over. Mom didn't need to drive you, just had to be home when the street lights came on. Also oil is far superior to what they had back then.
Again overall I agree new cars are probably more reliable, but part of that too was because of the amount of automation during assembly compared to then. Which does support your comment on quality. On the cars built back then's behalf that wasn't their fault that was people putting them together that didn't care.
This point and topic has been argued over and over so let's not beat a dead horse here...
This point and topic has been argued over and over so let's not beat a dead horse here...
Then please, don't toss a dead horse in the ring during a fight.
I think the main thing is here is to not have tangent discussions inside a build thread that really has nothing to do with someone's build, and not started by the OP of the thread. Regardless of whether the factory built this W-31 with high quality, it looks like the quality is going to be going into it during its restoration, and that's part of the fun and enjoyment to the restorer. And us watching as it goes together.
Sorry guys, just get tired if hearing the bashing of these older cars in a unwarranted blanket statement. This will be a superior example of how they meant these cars to look and be.
Sorry guys, just get tired if hearing the bashing of these older cars in a unwarranted blanket statement. This will be a superior example of how they meant these cars to look and be.
Thanks, Chris! And really appreciate your help along the way!
Always an exciting text when I get photos from Bob of the progress on the body work. Doors, fenders, hood, and deck lid are all in epoxy primer. The fenders were in need of metal repair by the front bumper area, and it appears that work has been completed.
Trying to knock out little projects while the car is in paint. Tonight, I went through the original door panels to peel the original blue decals off. I used a razor blade by hand, and all four decals came off easily. The LH decal was under the blue vinyl which tells me the cardboard received the decals and then the vinyl was applied. The 442 cardboard would have the knockouts for the plastic chrome that goes behind the arm rests.
There was a red scribble on the back of the RH front panel.
I tried my best to recreate. After I did it, I realized I'm nuts for trying to recreate some Lansing workers scribble...
I placed the decal in as close of a position as the original that I peeled off.
Mind you, I pulled these panels from the plastic bags that Legendary put them in. These were assembled in 2011. I purchased these from a friend last winter, and this is the first time I've gone through the front panels. On the LH front panel, the "chrome" trim has peeled completed away from the panel.
You can still see the protective tape on the chrome trim.
And my favorite part...Legendary's seal of quality. I'm hoping Legendary stands behind their product...we shall see.
Not even sure how these were affixed to the panel itself. There's no clue residue. Perhaps a vacuum process? Either way, I'm not a happy camper.
Im pretty sure someone posted on here a while back about a chrome tape that can be bought in different widths. I think it was on Amazon? I wonder if that would be a solution to this? I can't find the post or the tape? It might have been for a dash trim restoration?
Im pretty sure someone posted on here a while back about a chrome tape that can be bought in different widths. I think it was on Amazon? I wonder if that would be a solution to this? I can't find the post or the tape? It might have been for a dash trim restoration?
Crisis averted. My friend that sold me the panels bought them back. They had been in the Legendary box for 7-8 years before being opened so that may have played a role in the plastic chrome beading pulling away.
Regardless, I took advantage of Legendary’s 20% sale over the weekend and ordered new front and back panels. I put a call in to one of their reps and found them to be quite helpful. I needed to make sure the blue carpet matched the ACC blue carpet I ordered. Additionally, I requested the door panel cardboard NOT be pushed out for the plastic chrome backing plates. W-31 cars didn’t come with that plastic backing on the arm rests. We’ll see if they get it right...
Console is coming along and should be completed later this week. The crack obviously was a setback. We’ll see if FedEx steps up with the claim that I filed.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; December 18th, 2019 at 06:34 PM.
Console is coming along and should be completed later this week. The crack obviously was a setback. We’ll see if FedEx steps up with the claim that I filed.
WOW, that is really nice. But then, everything you're doing on this is top notch. I've loved W-31's since around 1972 when a friend owned a blue one. It was a beautiful looking and running car.....when he first got it. He like to thrash it a bit and as I remember itlooked the worse for wear.
Last edited by OLE442; November 3rd, 2019 at 06:13 PM.
Reason: spellin'
Looking for small projects I can knock out during the week. Today, I scrubbed the original headrests and visors.
The visors cleaned up awesome! I used Dawn soap with a soft brush, odor cleaner spray, and vinyl cleaner. I used a metal polish on the metal pieces and a strong glass polish to clean the visor mirror. The stitching is near perfect so I’m very pleased these won’t have to be recovered. The headliner from SMS is original material and matches the visors 100%.
The blue headrests may be a bit of a different story. They may need to be dyed. I scrubbed the vinyl and still couldn’t get them cleaned to my liking. For now, they’ll work but my OCD will likely get the best of me in the spring. I used a metal polish on the two “prongs.”
Cool to see a number embossed under the plastic.
Last edited by WTHIRTY1; November 4th, 2019 at 07:37 PM.
October 20th, 2019, 06:36 AM
Fantastic restoration over the top .But we have to remember we are dealing with 1970 cars that were built in 1970.
