For a 1970 Cutlass, is this the best tool to use for compressing front coils?


http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...0554/overview/

 

Yes, that one looks right, though in operation, the hooks all go the opposite way.

You have to use an inside compressor, because there's no room for an outside compressor, like you use with MacPherson struts.

It is also possible, and quite possibly easier, to do it with a carefully-wielded floor jack.

- Eric

 

Peter, yes that will work as long as you don't have shocks in the car at the time you're doing the work. I went through this with my car and using that tool is a total waste of time.

If you're replacing the front springs (not sure why since you just did the resto on your car) it's far easier to undo the front suspension and let the lower control arm down all the way. The coil will be easier to remove without any tension on it. Comes out easy, goes back in just as easy.

 

That is what I used as well (tool shown) and I just liked a little safety factor instead of the floor jack method as well as I didn't have the motor in either and there wasn't enough weight with the frame etc , my hooks are not the same size one is shorter which corresponds to the angle on the coils

 

AGREED! That thing is way too much work for removing the front coils.

Yep, this is how I did mine. Just be sure to lift the car up as high as you can since the control arm will come WAY down before the spring releases. For the safety conscious folks, put a chain through the center of the spring and out the shock hole in the lower control arm, just in case the spring tries to escape.

 

That tool, in my opinion and actual experience is great, I skip using one of the hook ends, run the threaded rod up through the bottom of the spring and then the threaded rod gets fed through the upper shock mounting hole, you are basically compressing the spring right up into the upper pocket. With a little practice I have been able to consistently install one side in under an hour. If it helps I can post a picture tomorrow as my son and I are putting new coils in his 65 chevelle.

 

X2 this is what i do as well- Makes installing springs really easy.
For removing them, i don't bother with the compressor, jsut use the floor jack method, and a ball joint separator tool like this:
http://pitstopusa.com/c-133199-tools...separator.html

goes between the balljoint studs and expands outward- tap on the spindle where the BJ goes through and it will pop right out. easy easy.

 

Might work well for you guys but it was a real PITA for me. It also scratched up the surface of the springs a lot. Had to re-paint them again before installing.

Just a thought Peter, if you're putting in HD springs on your vert, they are shorter than the regular springs and don't require as much drop on the control arm.

 

Same here ....as posted here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post228384

 

+1 on this guy...I use 2 pieces of steel top and bottom and 2 looong grade 8 bolts. Trying to slip that thing in the middle and getting the hooks to work has always been a pain for me. Mr Gasket used to sell a kit for Mustangs but I haven't found it in the Summit catalog in quite some time so I had to make my own...which is simple...2 6 inch pieces of steel, 3 holes in each, and some long bolts. Easier than wrestling with that thing.

 

As already said, much easier easier to drop the control arm than to fight with that silly compressor!
Start here with the initial disassemble:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post287763

To go right to the coil spring fun, go here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post290155

 

I'm going to disagree. I've had one of those spring compressors for decades and have had absolutely no problems with it. For one thing, it isn't possible to use the floor jack method if the engine is not in the car, since there won't be enough weight to compress the springs.

I have since scored one of the Kent-Moore tools that is essentially all-thread up the center of the spring, but I haven't had the chance to try it yet.

 

Allan - the reason I am dong this is because I have a pretty bad tilt- see my recent post:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...lass-tilt.html


If I do need to replace the coils I am not going HD. I like the smooth ride.


I asked the guys who did my restoration and they use this tool:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=555573_0_0_


which is $50. Not a bad trade for a bottle of good wine.


Rob - I must have read your thread 3 times over the past 6 months - it is saved as a favourite link!


Boese - please put some photos up showing the use of the tool!

 

Wrap the spring compressor arms with duct tape- no scratches!

 

I didn't post before, but mine retained excellent ride quality after replacing the worn out 40 year originals with the springs I posted in your other thread. They are essentially FE2 springs that were used on 442s and special order FE suspension vehicles. My car sits the same height as it did with the old worn out springs and my impression is the ride quality is fantastic - firm but still comfortable.

 

I use a 2' length of all thread through the upper shock mount and the lower control arm.

 

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2x!

 

In ref., to the spring compressor type that has the lower plate that contacts the bottom of the lower arm and has the rod that uses the upper shock mount hole - I see some of the tools and made units use a 1/2" Dia, rod, and seen reference to some useing a 5/8" threaded rod. A quick measure of that hole with shock in etc to just a getn idea of hole size, and it look like a 5/8 rod may work, but...Has anyone had any issues wit binding with a 5/8" Dia, rod having enough clearance to the upper shock mount hole when the lower arm is fully dropped? thanks