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The VFN parts are race car glass.
Does anyone else make a glass hood for the car? The reason I ask is you can spend a huge amount of time and product trying to make the hood look good. If there is one that is more refined it could be well worth the money. The hood is very important to get right as it is a large panel that gets a lot of attention.
Yep, I fully agree on the race car glass vs a higher quality example. I am amazed that they make a bolt on hood of such low quality levels… I could see that in a pin-on hood, but not a bolt on.
No other company makes a 4” cowl hood for a 1967 that I can find. We definitely need the 4” cowl for the height of the intake and air cleaner.
I looked at glasstek, hairy glass, harwood, and only VFN seems to support much for the ‘67…..
Looks like it will be elbow grease and time going into the VFN.
Yep, I fully agree on the race car glass vs a higher quality example. I am amazed that they make a bolt on hood of such low quality levels… I could see that in a pin-on hood, but not a bolt on.
No other company makes a 4” cowl hood for a 1967 that I can find. We definitely need the 4” cowl for the height of the intake and air cleaner.
I looked at glasstek, hairy glass, harwood, and only VFN seems to support much for the ‘67…..
Looks like it will be elbow grease and time going into the VFN.
How old is the hood?
The reason I ask is glass moves a lot as it cures some in the trade claim a year. I would put it out in the sun and ensure that it fully cures before I would start straightening the hood out. If it is still curing you could be chasing a wave.
If you don't have a long board like the one pictured I would recommend one
How old is the hood?
The reason I ask is glass moves a lot as it cures some in the trade claim a year. I would put it out in the sun and ensure that it fully cures before I would start straightening the hood out. If it is still curing you could be chasing a wave.
If you don't have a long board like the one pictured I would recommend one
It was purchased 5 years ago, so it is fully cured unfortunately.
It was crooked when we got it and they didn’t have another made for 2 years and the lady I spoke to said it seemed to have the same problems that mine had, so I couldn’t exchange it. Imagine that, just keep on making the same inferior/defective product instead of fixing the problem…..
We sat supports underneath the center with the hood upside down, and put weights on all four corners to take some of the arch out of it and put it out in the sunroom…. For a year!
Now it still has some arch, but not as bad.
Dave actually loaned me an 18 inch pneumatic block sander and we bought a manual one as well like you pictured above. I have been using them, a lot.
It is arched above the fenders along the sides, and dippy and low in the back corners.
I may have to slice some of the side supports along each side and put wedges wood to fiberglass in them to help flatten it out.
This is about to get ugly….
Last edited by Battenrunner; Jul 18, 2022 at 03:18 PM.
It was purchased 5 years ago, so it is fully cured unfortunately.
It was crooked when we got it and they didn’t have another made for 2 years and the lady I spoke to said it seemed to have the same problems that mine had, so I couldn’t exchange it. Imagine that, just keep on making the same inferior/defective product instead of fixing the problem…..
We sat supports underneath the center with the hood upside down, and put weights on all four corners to take some of the arch out of it and put it out in the sunroom…. For a year!
Now it still has some arch, but not as bad.
Dave actually loaned me an 18 inch pneumatic block sander and we bought a manual one as well like you pictured above. I have been using them, a lot.
It is arched above the fenders along the sides, and dippy and low in the back corners.
I may have to slice some of the side supports along each side and put wedges wood to fiberglass in them to help flatten it out.
This is about to get ugly….
Good luck with the surgery
Last edited by Bernhard; Jul 18, 2022 at 06:34 PM.
Have you experienced any stress cracking between the two different materials. I have seen problems in the past with the different expansion rates.
Absolutely I have seen cracking before I worked on aircraft old and new. Whomever grafted this hood scoop had a good process and used a great bonding material. No stress cracking.
Absolutely I have seen cracking before I worked on aircraft old and new. Whomever grafted this hood scoop had a good process and used a great bonding material. No stress cracking.
Thanks for the reply. I'm glad you have one that was well done. There is some very good panel bonding adhesives out there today as well as plastic filler, primer and top coats. Like you said process.is the key.
I know shops that would not touch this type of work because how hard it is to get right that said products have come a long way since then.
Cool car!
Yeah, apparently Ajax plating will do pot metal pieces. They are only open Wed-Fri, so I haven’t gotten to try them yet. I will go by or at least give them a call tomorrow hopefully.
Anyone know of an affordable chrome shop for the bumpers and pot metal?
I had researched this out for myself years ago and talked to a host of my car friends. The conclusion I came to was that CO no longer offered anywhere to get bumpers re-chromed or plated due to the environmentalists. I was referred to several places in CA for bumpers and such. If you find somewhere locally....let me know. This question comes up allot. Thanks!
I had researched this out for myself years ago and talked to a host of my car friends. The conclusion I came to was that CO no longer offered anywhere to get bumpers re-chromed or plated due to the environmentalists. I was referred to several places in CA for bumpers and such. If you find somewhere locally....let me know. This question comes up allot. Thanks!
Texas I think Huston you can get bumpers replated. But they don't do pot metal. Superior I think is the company name.
Apparently, no one in Denver does pot metal repair and re-plating anymore.
Smitty’s Chrome in Oshkosh Nebraska was friendly when I just called him, and he offered to do bumpers for $1400 each, the tail light Bezels for $250-$300 for the pair, and $500-$600 to re-plate the Oldsmobile script large trunk trim piece.
His prices weren’t out of line with other places I have tried, I was just hoping for a break I guess.
This is getting quite disheartening…. And we won’t be able to have these pieces done at that cost.
It doesn’t seem to matter where these shops are located anymore…. In states that it is cheap to live, and there aren’t chemical restrictions or zero permits/very low costs, they are all about the same, and very expensive.
I put in a call to Superior in Houston, just in case…
Apparently, no one in Denver does pot metal repair and re-plating anymore.
Smitty’s Chrome in Oshkosh Nebraska was friendly when I just called him, and he offered to do bumpers for $1400 each, the tail light Bezels for $250-$300 for the pair, and $500-$600 to re-plate the Oldsmobile script large trunk trim piece.
His prices weren’t out of line with other places I have tried, I was just hoping for a break I guess.
This is getting quite disheartening…. And we won’t be able to have these pieces done at that cost.
It doesn’t seem to matter where these shops are located anymore…. In states that it is cheap to live, and there aren’t chemical restrictions or zero permits/very low costs, they are all about the same, and very expensive.
I put in a call to Superior in Houston, just in case…
There was some bumpers on ebay awhile back thought they said new. How bad are your light bezels and show the trunk trim please.
There was a huge dark spot for 10+ inches in each back corner over the hinge mounts, but I had already roughed it up with the DA sander to get it to take filler when this pic was taken.
I have started using Dynatron Dyna Glass filler on the hood since the pic, and working the low spots to build and level them.
We are also going to build a welded skeleton support frame of aluminum strap and rod that we will be bonding and glassing into the bottom of the hood to keep it from flexing and vibrating so much while driving.
I will post pics as things progress. I had another minor surgery today, so that is slowing me down again.
On the bumper rechrome side, Superior in Houston is very fair and we will hopefully get to send the bumpers to them. He quoted me approximately $800 each for a triple plate lifetime warranty chrome job. This is 2/3 to 1/2 price of what I got quoted at other shops all around the country.
I am also awaiting a call back from another shop…
Last edited by Battenrunner; Jul 22, 2022 at 03:43 PM.
There was a huge dark spot for 10+ inches in each back corner over the hinge mounts, but I had already roughed it up with the DA sander to get it to take filler when this pic was taken.
I have started using Dynatron Dyna Glass filler on the hood since the pic, and working the low spots to build and level them.
We are also going to build a welded skeleton support frame of aluminum strap and rod that we will be bonding and glassing into the bottom of the hood to keep it from flexing and vibrating so much while driving.
I will post pics as things progress. I had another minor surgery today, so that is slowing me down again.
On the bumper rechrome side, Superior in Houston is very fair and we will hopefully get to send the bumpers to them. He quoted me approximately $800 each for a triple plate lifetime warranty chrome job. This is 2/3 to 1/2 price of what I got quoted at other shops all around the country.
I am also awaiting a call back from another shop…
Have you thought about bonding the hood to a factory hood brace?
