Hello! I have a 1970 Olds 442 with a non-numbers matching, non-A/C Olds 455 that’s
dated 1969 (not sure what it came out of, block #’s 39M181457). Since it’s not a
numbers matching engine, I’m going to go ahead and make her a street/strip car.

I’m curious about the HP and the torque numbers she will make once I get her done, but
even more importantly, the recommendations/suggestions from the Olds community! It’s
hard to find Olds guys most anywhere, let alone in my area, so I’d love to find out
where I’m going wrong and where I’m going right…

As far as cost goes, I’m not rich by any means, but I would rather take 3 or 4 years to
build this car right than to rush through a budget build and cut corners to get it done
quickly. I’m also an “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” guy so I would
rather buy parts that are a little more than what I need so I don’t have to re-do it
later, or worse, do massive damage to the engine.

I’m not looking for a “trailer queen” so while I enjoy a nice appearance, I will always
sacrifice “looks” for “performance”.

So, ALL that said, here’s what I’m looking at (I put an “*” in front of the parts I’ve
purchased thus far). I left out some ‘minor’ things like gasket kit’s I’ve purchased
and what bolt kit’s I’m considering (i.e. cylinder head studs vs. bolts) but I’m open
to suggestions to those as well!! (p.s. going with head studs vs. bolts as of right
now)

Olds 455 bored over .060 over
Dick Miller Hydraulic Roller Cam & Lifters (Dur@50 248/256 Dur@006 298/306 Gross/Lift
.586/.583 Lobe/Sep 110/106)
* Edelbrock Performer RPM Cylinder Heads (ported and polished)
- Harland Sharp Roller Rockers (1.6 ratio)
- Upgraded valve springs (haven’t decided which ones…suggestions?)
* Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap Intake (port matched to heads)
* MSD Ignition
- Distributor (part # 8566)
- 6AL Ignition
- Blaster 2 Coil
* Holley Ultra HP 850 (Part #: 0-80804BK)
* Griffin Dominator Aluminum Radiator
- 16” Electric fan w/shroud & overflow tank
* K&N X-Stream Air Filter
Holley HP 150 Electric Fuel Pump (12-150)
March Performance Ultra Serpentine Belt Conversion Kit (16065)
FlowKooler High-Volume Mechanical Water Pump
Eagle Crankshaft (standard 4.250 in. stroke)
Eagle H Beam Forged Connecting Rods (6735O3D2000)
Doug Thorley #331-C Full Length Headers, 1 3/4" primaries, 3" collector
Pypes 3" exhaust w/ "X-Change” crossover
- Electronic Cut-outs – open headers – will this add HP or cause problems?
- Race Pro mufflers – best flowing Pypes mufflers with cut-outs off
Melling High-Volume Oil Pump
Pistons - .60 over… open to suggestions
Main Caps – unsure… suggestions??
CONSIDERING – Full Main Girdle (J & S 5 Main BB Full Girdle part #JS-11)
- I figure if I add one, it will “bullet-proof” the bottom end – Yes – No –
Suggestions??
CONSIDERING – Rocket Racing Rocker Stud Girdle w/Poly Locks

I have a TH400 transmission which I plan on having rebuilt. I also plan to use a Turbo
Action CHEETAH SCS SHIFTER but currently have the His/Hers dual gate shifter.

My concerns are on the Cam, headers, exahust (maybe Magnaflow?) and pistons.

Thanks for your time!

Ray W.
1970Olds442

 

If you're buying a new crank why not go stroker?
That's a lot of cam, I'd come back on the duration a bit and increase the lift seeing as how you have ported heads.
Yes a girdle would be wise. And depending on your crank choice I really like the Keith Black Icon series pistons.
I'd use the Hooker Super Comp headers, either 1 7/8 or 2.00 depending on your combo.
Exhaust is yuor choice.
And again depending on your final combo a larger carb may be in order.
Have the block sonic checked before you bore it to .060 over.
An aftermarket pan would be good as well.

 

Dick Miller Hydraulic Roller Cam & Lifters (Dur@50 248/256 Dur@006 298/306 Gross/Lift
.586/.583 Lobe/Sep 110/106)

That's a lot of cam, I'd come back on the duration a bit and increase the lift seeing as how you have ported heads.

Geez, how much lift should he go with, .700" lol?

I'd give that cam a try first, especially if he wants to make power up to 6000 or so.
I don't dare tell you how much cam I run

 

I'd run low .600's. If you look at the flow numbers on the new Edelbrock heads they level out on the intake above .550 or so, while continuing to climb on the exhaust side.
If they were ported right they will continue to climb on the intake as well as being higher overall.
Plus it'll depend on his combo as I mentioned. If he goes stroker then that cam may not be too bad, otherwise I stick with my original recommendation.
And cam preference is an individual thing. What's streetable for one person may be too much for another and vice versa.

 

Thanks for the replies!!

Initially I was looking at the Stroker option, but everything I read about the Olds 455 Strokers said they were unreliable and that parts wore unevenly, which caused a lot of parts replacement. There seems to be a lot of arguments about whether they are a viable option or not. I’ve also read that a well built engine with a “stock” crankshaft configuration will make as much, if not more horsepower then going for the Stroker option.

So basically, I wrote off building her as a Stroker as a non-option. My initial thought was that building a “Stroker” wasn’t about horsepower and performance but rather being able to say “I have XXX cubic inches under the hood” and I’ve been told ‘size doesn’t matter’ :-P That said, I would be willing to go for the Stroker if it were a sound option. Like I said, I’m open minded and willing to listen to arguments for or against… and I won’t lie, to me, size DOES matter, but I don’t want to have an engine that’s broken more often than not. So, are Olds 455 Strokers reliable?

I chose the Doug Thorley headers because they come highly recommended when looking at fit, seal, durability (14 gauge) and the collectors are 3” which would match up with the 3” exhaust I’m looking at. The Hooker Super Comps measure out at 3.5” collectors so I would have to go with a 3.5” exhaust system if I switched to the Hookers. What you suggest makes sense though, bigger exhaust ports on the heads means more flow to the headers, collectors and the entire exhaust system. I’m just wondering if my build would need that much CFM coming out the exhaust.

As far as cam goes, I agree with Run To Rund, I love lot’s of cam, BUT I think I will hold off on the camshaft for now. My mechanic friend has been really hesitant on cam choices and keeps saying we should wait until the engine is all but complete THEN chose the cam as it is the “heart” of the engine (my words, not his). After reading your suggestions, I think I should listen to both of you. No sense in choosing a cam until I know exactly what the build will be.

As for pistons, I Keith Blacks seem to be popular and highly recommended. I will probably run with them!

Ray W.
1070Olds442

 

Thanks for the replies!!

Initially I was looking at the Stroker option, but everything I read about the Olds 455 Strokers said they were unreliable and that parts wore unevenly, which caused a lot of parts replacement. There seems to be a lot of arguments about whether they are a viable option or not. I’ve also read that a well built engine with a “stock” crankshaft configuration will make as much, if not more horsepower then going for the Stroker option.

So basically, I wrote off building her as a Stroker as a non-option. My initial thought was that building a “Stroker” wasn’t about horsepower and performance but rather being able to say “I have XXX cubic inches under the hood” and I’ve been told ‘size doesn’t matter’ :-P That said, I would be willing to go for the Stroker if it were a sound option. Like I said, I’m open minded and willing to listen to arguments for or against… and I won’t lie, to me, size DOES matter, but I don’t want to have an engine that’s broken more often than not. So, are Olds 455 Strokers reliable?

I chose the Doug Thorley headers because they come highly recommended when looking at fit, seal, durability (14 gauge) and the collectors are 3” which would match up with the 3” exhaust I’m looking at. The Hooker Super Comps measure out at 3.5” collectors so I would have to go with a 3.5” exhaust system if I switched to the Hookers. What you suggest makes sense though, bigger exhaust ports on the heads means more flow to the headers, collectors and the entire exhaust system. I’m just wondering if my build would need that much CFM coming out the exhaust.

As far as cam goes, I agree with Run To Rund, I love lot’s of cam, BUT I think I will hold off on the camshaft for now. My mechanic friend has been really hesitant on cam choices and keeps saying we should wait until the engine is all but complete THEN chose the cam as it is the “heart” of the engine (my words, not his). After reading your suggestions, I think I should listen to both of you. No sense in choosing a cam until I know exactly what the build will be.

As for pistons, I Keith Blacks seem to be popular and highly recommended. I will probably run with them!

Ray W.
1070Olds44

 

In all, you're building a nice engine...but there are some planning issues that I can see. You have a really aggressive cam and heads, but you're planning to run small primary headers and a carb that's too small as well. I'm not trying to bust your bubble but you really should line out a specific goal, as many of us here have met a variety of power numbers and can guide you on your way.

If you're looking for 500 hp you are going overboard. If you're looking for 700 hp there is a little more you need to do...see what I'm saying?

Steve

 

Thanks for the quick replies and SORRY it’s taking me so long to reply. I had to fly out to Cape May NJ for my daughter’s basic training graduation; she’s in the US Coast Guard.

I can see where you’re coming from; I do need to identify my goals. The car definitely has to be streetable. I really love driving her, but only take her out on the occasional Sunday drive, Cruse Night, local car showings and if the weather is nice, I’ll drive it to work on a Friday (still local).

My initial HP goal was “around 500 HP” but as time when on, I started getting carried away. Right now, I’m guessing around 600 - 650 HP would be nice as long as I can keep her on the road. I really want her to be respectable, especially with all the young kids building up their foreign cars with coffee can mufflers and the new model Cameo and Mustangs pushing 550+ HP.

I have Bill Trovato’s book “How to Build Max-Performance Oldsmobile V-8’s” and have been using it extensively for my build.

I see what you’re saying about the headers. I’m now looking at the Hooker Super Comps and the American Racing headers. Even though they are quite expensive, I’m really leaning at the American Racing headers. I can’t find Olds specific headers, but after looking around on their site it looks like I need model 68-72 Big Block Chevelle/Malibu/A-Body version with 2” primaries, 3.5” collectors and square flanges (part # GMABBC2).

As for the intake, I currently have an Edelbrock Torker on it and have already purchased the Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap. I guess owning them is an advantage because I can test both of them for performance, but I know the Torker will probably prove to be better.

Initially I wanted to get one of the Holley 1050-cfm Dominators, but a buddy of mine talked me out of it, saying it was way too much carburetor for my car so I went to the 850.

I’m curious about the rocker arms. I was going to get the Harland Sharp 5003’s because they are designed specifically for the Edelbrock heads. The 5016’s you’re suggesting are made for Bulldog heads. Why do you recommend the 5016’s?
Thanks again!!

Ray

 

Read about the 5016's and 5017's in Bills book. He talks about geometry and how those part numbers are the preferred rockers even though they were originally made for Bulldog heads. I run them on my Edelbrock heads...they are nice.

Get the AR headers for M&J Proformance, they have them for the 455. American Racing's website only lists the flanges.

500 HP is way more than you think. I have 500 and am more than happy with it for a street car. There's not much you can beat...because you spin your tires all day long lmao! But with a good set of drag radials or slicks, there's not too many street cars that are going to hang. Remember, once you get more power, you're going to have more suspension to cope with it. That's where I'm at now, even at 500 HP I have problems launching with the stock suspension. These cars weren't made for that much power, I can only imagine what it'd do with 600-650 hp.

Contemplate that number, 600-650 hp. If you build it that strong, it is highly unlikely that it'll be streetable...and you are in a power range that could yield you low 10 second 1/4 mile times...which, if you take it to a track, could require a roll cage and all that jazz. I don't know that's what you want for a streeter