looking for advice on this I have to paint all my chassis parts soon
Por says you can cut it at about 5%
This stuff is thick .....is a primer gun the best to use and what size tip have you used?

 

I've used POR 15 before, but I never sprayed it. It works great when applied with a brush.

 

If you haven't bought the POR yet, I would advise you to do more research before making a decision to use it. I sprayed it on my frame, and will never use it again. I may even strip it and start over....

To answer your question, I used a 1.5 tip, thinned to the max recommended and it sprayed very good.

For chassis parts, I recommend to blast and powder coat. If you prefer paint, I have used Eastwood extreme chassis black with excellent results.

 

Eastwood is a good company, I've never heard negative about them or their products. Perhaps POR 15 doesn't work well when sprayed since you have to thin it. FWIW, I think you would be happy if you used a brush to apply the POR 15.

 

I sprayed it on inner floor pans. You need to wear a very good respirator and use a very cheap spray gun. Clean up is tough and if anything is left behind the gun is trash.
I would recommend a brush unless you have a very large surface area to cover.

 

I sprayed POR 15 on using their thinning solution called SOLVENT. used a 2 to 1 ratio. I sprayed my engine and also my frame, I liked the results. I had to redo the left valve cover since I sprayed too much and let it ran. Some do brush it own but I like spraying it.

 

POR = Paint Over Rust. Remove the rust and do it right. There are better products out there for a better price!

I will never recommend POR to anyone.

If you insist on using it, there is nothing wrong with spraying it vs brushing. It sprays and levels great.

 

I bought a product called Chassis Saver thats supposed to be just like POR-15. It can also be thinned & sprayed on. I read about it on the net & saw good replies so I'm going to give it a try. It's cheaper that the por-15 too

 

i have used por15 on several things and have always liked the results. but as mentioned if you spray it use a respirator and spray it outside. i learned the hard waay and ended up in the ER once from not wearing a respirator. i brush it on and would not recommend spraying it. also wear plastic gloves and long sleeve shirt. once that stuff dries on you. it doesnt wash off, it wears off your skin and takes about a week to get off.

 

From someone who has used a lot of the stuff... Use a respirator even if you're brushing it on. Also, use goggles or at least safety glasses. I got some in the corner of my eye one time and I thought I was on fire.

I've heard complaints about the stuff, but in my experience, it comes down to following the directions to the letter and using POR's prep materials. If you don't follow it exactly, don't expect good results. It is also not great at sticking to shiny / smooth metal. It needs some roughness / texture in the surface to 'bite' into.

There's also a similar, less expensive alternative from KBS Coatings. I've used both pretty much interchangeably.

-Justin

 

Definitely follow safety instructions no matter what product you use!

 

I used rust encapsultor on my 2000 Grand marquis on the metal cowl area in front of the windshield where it had begun to rust. Debris sits on that area of those cars. After two years exposure to the elements including winter salt it has stood up well. It's not cheap but is cheaper than POR and easier to use. It's not physically as tough though, it scratches easily. With the way most of us drive our collector cars (sparingly in the rain and not through winter) I would think chassie paint for well prepped chassie parts would be fine.

 

I'm just curious......How much paint does it typically take to paint an entire frame? I'm trying to gauge cost between POR15 and the other "rock-hard" frame paints.....

 

pesonaly, i think brushing will stick the paint better than spraying. the brush mixes it into the surface dust etc. just my two cents

 

I used POR 15 with great results on my car. I painted everything with it. I used a ton of those cheap foam brushes which lays it on pretty smooth and then it levels out really well. I followed the instructions and sprayed a light coat of primer over it when it was tacky and then a good coat after that dried. Then I put a top coat of whatever color I needed on it and always had great results. I never tried Eastwoods product but I have never heard anything bad about it either.

 

POR is junk.

Go to an auto body supply store and check out the professional products instead.

Ditzler has some good epoxy based paints that work great.

 

Wes, I had my frame sandblasted by an industrial sand blaster, and then I used Rust Mort which I brushed on. My bodyman friend sprayed right over top of the Rust Mort with black chassis paint(we didn't use a primer) I can get you the name of both these products if you want. I am very satisfied with the result - very hard and shiny!!!!

Pat

 

Hey Pat thanks for the info..... but it was an old post my chassis is together now just a few more odds and ends left on the underside of the car to finish off before body on check the link on my sig to see the progress

 

well, this may change my mind about POR , even though I thought it worked great. It was the first thing I used that completely stopped the cancer in the rear qtr pockets and I only used one coat....What I learned was...sandblast if possible or sand getting as much loose rust off as possible , use a good degreaser and clean part , I used metal ready (another reason to have safety glasses and rubber gloves ) its an acid that neutralizes and etches the surface making an excellent bonding surface for POR. apply POR and recoat following the directions....If there is something easier and better than POR , I would like to know , especially if its cheaper

 

im ready to buy some pretty quick, and i like the technical aspect of por, im gonna check out pats rust mort method, and por, theres kits available as well with all the etches, primers and paints in one

 

The only issue with POR is that it isn't UV resistant. UV will cause it to ware/fade slowly than flake off. So don't use it where it will see the sun.

I and my son are building a custom Jeep rock crawler and painted the inside and then the outside of the frame with POR . I let it flash for 30-60 minutes then color coated the frame, plum crazy purple. The frame sat outside for 2 years in the snow, rain and hot sun while the body was being completed with no effects. It still looks brand new. I used an undercoating wand to get inside the frame. I used a Habour Freight cheap gun to apply the POR. I was able to clean it up well enough to use again. When I do an Olds you can be sure I will do the same. I don't trust other stuff.

To MX442, good luck stripping it!

 

I'd use a good quality Epoxy Primer followed by a good Chassis Black topcoat.

 

STAY AWAY FROM POR15~!!!!!!

have your frame powder coated and be done forever. If you spray POR make sure 100% you have a perfect working air mask, if that stuff get un your lungs you will be sick for a LONG time!!!! stay away!!!