I am getting ready to use some POR-15 on my frame. I am going to coat my front bumper mounts first as a trial. Anyone have any suggestions or experiences with the stuff before I go for it. Have heard good and bad about it so figured I would do a small part before I coat the frame. Have heard it is amazing stuff and have also heard of it peeling off in strips. Any comments would be greatly appreciated as always.

 

Read the instructions from POR15's website on each product you will use and follow carefully.

Clean your surfaces well! Regular POR15 needs rust (or atextured surface) to bite into, also - it has trouble on smooth surfaces. Make sure surfaces are completely dry of any liquid.

Regular POR15 is UV sensitive. Sunlight exposure can make it deteriorate fast - I have seen the results. These places should be topcoated with Chassiscote black.

It drys FAST under high humidity (in little as 30 minutes) and SLOW under dry conditions (up to 4 hours).

A second coat may only be applied when the first is slightly tacky, so good timing is important.
POR15 applied over cured POR15 will peel off, unless the cured stuff is roughened, first.

Do NOT get it on your skin, as it takes up to 3-4 weeks for it to wear off your skin. Disposable brushes & gloves are a must, clothes you wear must be sacrificial.

Daubers (like big fat pipecleaners) can be used to get inside the frame crannies.

The regular POR15 semigloss black matches the GM semigloss very well - I used it before and compared.

These are just a few things on the tip of my mind (the only part that is working now...)

 

Rob gave you some good advice. One thing he noted on another thread is that the chassiscote black has a little more gloss to it than original. I think this is probably true. I did a PWC trailer with POR15 this past summer and used the chassiscote black. It may be closer to semi-gloss than a satin finish.

Be sure you wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt and clothes you don't car about. This stuff does not scrub off. As Rob said, You have to wear it off. Put a plastic tarp down if you care about your floor because it won't come up. If you reseal the can, use a piece of wax paper under the lid because it will seal the lid to the can if you don't. It is really good stuff but it is very permanent.

 

Any recommendations on POR-15 vs. Eastwoods rust encapsilator and chassis coat or POR-15. I'be heard Eastwoods is easier to work with.

 

Ditto on not getting the stuff on your skin and clothes. Another product out there is Chassis Saver, though i believe it is somewhat the same makeup.

 

I've used them both and feel they work about the same. I think the Rust Encapsulator is a little more forgiving regarding surface prep but the POR 15 is easier to sand if you need to. They're both great products.

 

I used POR 15 on my 455. It worked great! Definitely make sure you use gloves and sacraficial clothing. Also put down some plastic under the object you are painting. There is still blue and silver POR 15 on my driveway from a year ago when I painted my engine.

I haven't use Eastwood products.

I have used Rust-O-Leum primer on my rear window channel. It works great too. It's a little easier to use than POR 15.

 

POR-15 is not a good product.

I would suggest a professional product like DP90.

The folks who make paint for the automotive aftermarket have much better products.

 

DP 90 is an epoxy primer which is excellent for covering bare metal but he didn't indicate if he was sandblasting or stripping his frame. I'd top coat the DP90 too if it were me. If he's just going to be degreasing and wire brushing the frame I'd still stick with Eastwood or POR-15.

 

Go with POR 15. It is the best!

 

Would not use POR-15 again for anything. Very happy with Eastwood variety and durability. Friends have used POR systems and agree.

 

I have used both and now use only Eastwood....its just easier to work with in all ways

 

I guess Wilson05 has a choice to make. Let us know what you decide.

 

My buddy just did his trunk in his 62 caddy and it looks awesome. That stuff is tuff as hell. He just dumped the can in his trunk and used brushes to smooth it out, it looks like it was sprayed! Cant comment on the durrability since he did it before we finished the bag setup and he hasnt driven it yet although he has used it many times and swears by it. The one thing I have heard from everyone who has used it, DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN!!!

 

I've used the POR-15 & Chassiscoat Black on a few different things before.It has its place.It can act like stain to wood,but I have also seen situations where litle little rust flakes started poking through a well-coated area,& this was on a frame that never went outside,just stored inside for a number of years.Yes,you can paint it right over rust,but it will work even better if the area is blasted,& blasting it will give you a better surface before & after anyway.In my opinion,if the part is pitted,& will never have the ability to be a show part,then I will blast it,& do the POR-15,& some sort of top-coat to make it look pleasing to most people,but if I am working with something rust-free,& very worthy of the best possible job,I will not use that,as it will never produce a finish like that,with its grainy texture & such.
A nice thing about DP90 is that you apply that,& then you can do bodywork,painting,or whatever over top of it.
Everything has its place,whether it be the POR-15,or similar paints,your epoxy proccess paints,powder coating,etc.
One thing I don't understand,or is misleading about the POR stuff,is that there are instructions that tell you that you only have a certain time frame to recoat,or apply a different product,but then on the cans,they say anytime.I do know that anytime is not correct.

 

My experience...

I painted a frame by hand about 12 years ago. The frame sat outside all that time. The POR-15 paint completely wore off leaving the primer underneath. Not an experiment, just how things worked out and no where to store it. I also did not sand the primer good enough it seemed. I also got the paint all over my hands. I tried everything to get it off. Gas, Paint Thinner, etc. Finally... bleach took it off. However, before that, I had scrubbed my hands with sandpaper... so it kinda sorta burned a bit.

I might use POR-15 again, if I use it properly this time around.

I just had the same frame done again last month (since I finally have a garage up to put it in), but this time I had it powder coated.

 

The regular POR15 is UV sensative. Sun or even reflected sun rays will deteriorate it fast. I saw this happen on a buddy's car just within a few months.
If it will be used on an exposed area, then it must be topcoated.

Using POR15 correctly will train the user in time management real fast! Timing between coats is critical. If the humidity turns dry on you, you may be up all night in order to do the job right. Been there, done that...

I just got the new Eastwood catalog in the mail and I am impressed at what the have.
They seem to cater to the auto restorer and offers MANY correct colors and glosses. I am eying the 20% underhood black - this looks great.
POR15 seems to be more generic and catering to the custom crowd who may not be that particular on glosses and factory appearances.
Just my new opinions.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Well I bought a sample of POR-15 to try on my bumper mounts. We will see how it turns out and go from there.