Introduction and quick question
Hi guys I'm dan, I'm a 442 enthusiast who has frequented this forum from afar for some years now and now I have a question I can't find the answer too so I figured it was time to sign up. I'm finishing up a frame off on my 1971 442 convertible. it's a real 442 and I am doing it up like a w30. It's a conv/4-speed/A/C car which I think is pretty cool (literally). My question is about the aftermarket red inner fender wells. I bought a pair from Brothers Automotive back in 2012-13. They are just now being installed and I'm not a guy that's always complaining. I understand everything's not gonna bolt right on but these things are rediculous!!! Does anyone know if they've came out with a new version/different manufacture since then that might fit better? Or maybe some installation trick to get them to fit. We were trying to install them with the fenders on. Do you think it would make any difference if we took the fenders off first? They really don't even fit like they are made for my car. I have goodmark aftermarket fenders on the car. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'll throw in the most recent pic of the car but don't have pics of wheel well fit.
i believe my front inner wells were from the parts place and i had the same issue .the fender well fit better to my original passenger side fender than the one on the drivers side ,which had a repop fender,both while fenders were on the car.i cranked the heat up in the garage to make them more pliable and actually used a heat gun to remold part of the drivers side lower section.all the bolt holes did line up.i might suggest leaving them in the sun for a while to soften them up.imo most of the aftermarket parts need massaging.btw (1972 cutlass supreme conv. )
Dan, nice looking paint job. To the inner fenders, most aftermarket inners require a good amount of "messaging" you may even need to drill new holes. I start in the back.....then do the front.....finish with the lip clips
Nearly all of the repro inner fenders that I've seen suck. The molded features like the wiring troughs and the bosses for the cruise control unit are amorphous blobs instead of having well defined, crisp edges. Fortunately, this makes it easy to spot a fake W-30.
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