Your additions are great, Eric.

 

Here's a better picture when the secondary was stuck open

Ok I got it now thanks for clearing that up..

I misunderstood whay the dude was saying..thanks for the picture
Brown7373 and Eric

In the second picture with arrow I was thinking the spring connected here..but I see where its located now thanks again guys

 

Thanks for the better picture, Terry.




From it, we can see that this is a Buick Carburetor made for use with a divorced choke.




100_1392.jpg


This means a couple of things:
1. When adjusting or rebuilding this carburetor, you will need to follow Buick's instructions, not Oldsmobile's.
2. You will never have an automatic choke on that car while you are using that carburetor.

Keep up the good work!

- Eric

 

Today after work I looked at the carb more closely..


I think I need to replace the choke rods or all of those parts..the choke has too much play in it....it wont sty open like its suppose too..


Someone mentioned in the conversation for me to suck on a hose to see if the diaphragm moves...not which side he wanted me to do that too..


The Rod with red arrow....it wont stay in place....


this morning the cutlass didn't want to start...didn't have time to look at it cuz it was dark still...


I just ready to replace parts already....


so then when I order a part for the carb do I give them the number u all guided me to find on the carb...

 

Look, fair Damsel, you've got to read this chapter from a Buick Service Manual about your carb, how your linkage works, and how to adjust it.

I'd mark up your photo there with advice, but somebody already did it better in the manual.

I'll show you:





Take a good long look at that, and read how to make sure the two vacuum breaks are working, but remember:
NEITHER OF THESE VACUUM BREAKS IS DOING ANYTHING AT ALL RIGHT NOW BECAUSE YOU DO NOT, AND CAN NOT, HAVE AN AUTOMATIC CHOKE USING THAT CARBURETOR ON THAT ENGINE, SO YOU HAVE TO TIE THE CHOKE FULLY OPEN AND LIVE WITHOUT IT, OR INSTALL A MANUAL CHOKE.
The vacuum breaks are designed to open the choke just the right amount under different driving conditions, before the car is warmed up - if the choke is open all the way already, they do nothing.

My personal recommendation would be for you to get an Oldsmobile carb. from someone here who's got a bucket of 'em, rebuild it, and install it, and it will solve all of these problems.

- Eric

 

^^^Agreed. You will also need to find out if your choke tube holes are plugged, welded
up or whats up on the intake. You will need the tubes as well, with the correct carb, so
keep that in mind as well.

 

That pile o' wire wrapped up on the op-rod is holding the secondary air valve open again. You need to get rid of that. It will kill your mileage and driveability. The vacuum diaphragms are set up to either hold the air valve and choke closed or open the choke and let the air valve work correctly. It looks like the You can use that wire to hold the choke open, but you need to remove it from the air valve connections. It also looks like somebody put a bend in the choke op-rod to keep it from opening all the way. Try straightening that rod connected to the choke and see if that will let it open all the way. Then tie it that way.

 

Doesn't matter with this carb, as it's a 4MV divorced choke carb.

If it were an Olds 4MV, she could keep the carb by swapping the intake, but I don't think the Olds and Buick divorced choke mechanisms interchange (though I could be wrong...).

I'm sure she just has to get a complete new choke tube setup (Fusick's got 'em - $$$). Those stubs in the manifold don't look too good.

Since she's in south Texas, she really doesn't need a choke anyway.

- Eric

 

I'm with you, that carb is a mess. I knew it was divorced choke, and
am pretty sure none of the stoves will interchange between marques.

 

And just to clarify, you need to get that ball of wire off of the secondary air valve arm in the yellow oval, and tie that choke rod connection plate in a fully clockwise position by pulling its bottom toward the back of the carb, as shown in red.

And if the air valve doesn't close smartly, you need to loosen the set screw with an allen key and turn the air valve spring half a turn past where the valve closes, then tighten the set screw, as specified in the Buick manual I linked to.



- Eric

 

The picture of your carb now has some circles on it. The red circle shows a lever that looks like it is connected to the choke. Make sure that lever doesn't rub on anything else. Use a pair of pliers to straighten it out if necessary. Once it is straightened out move it around and tie it in the position that holds the choke open, but don't tie it to any other moving parts.

The green circle shows the tie that is now on the carb that needs to be removed. It is holding the air valve open and as the yellow circle shows, it is holding the secondary metering rods up. This will kill your mileage.

Since I don't think you have the correct carb in your back pocket you need to get this one to work the best you can until you get the right one. If the air valve can be opened easily and springs shut on it's own once the tie is removed it should work fine for now. Once the rods are straightened out and not rubbing on each other the choke should move freely and the lever in the red circle should move it. One direction should close it and the other direction should open it. Tie it open! Once all the moving parts move freely the carb can be adjusted for idle speed and fuel mixture.

That is the best that can be done with this carb. If it runs ok that way you can leave it alone for a while and focus on other more pressing repairs, like the wiring.

Need%20Adjustments_zpsux7x8ut6.jpg

 

36_15_271_zps52c3ab1c.gif Eric beat me to it and used different colors, but the principle is the same.

 

Sorry Eric, but Central Texas does get some weather that requires a choke in the winter if she plans on using it as a daily driver year round. As stated she needs to replace the carb with a suitable one and replace the necessary manifold parts to make the choke work. I agree that she can temporarily wire the choke open until the suitable parts are found. The other suggestion of installing a manual choke is also an option, however it will need to be somewhat... engineered. He offered to help earlier in the thread, perhaps 70Wcars has one and is in the local area to help her out. Link below:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...s/70wcars.html

 

Ok I can do all that this Saturday...but u need to know that the meter rods are stuck up and the secondary will flip open all the way once I remove that little ball of wire...in a previous pic there used to be a piece of coat hanger wire that was keeping the secondary closed...until the orileys used the plastic ties..


But with that said I will do what you all are saying then post some pics after I am done.....If I could give each of you a hug I would.soooooo xoxox hugs to u all

 

You really DO need a carburetor.

So, the obvious question: Once all that wire is removed, if you hold the air valve closed, do the metering rods drop back into their jets, or do they stay stuck in a raised position?

Do you have a set of small Allen keys?
If not, they're cheap.

It takes literally one minute to adjust the air valve return spring.

- Eric

 

No they stay open....I have a dz allen wrenchs....

I know I do..I will look around this weekend.for a carb....I know a few people

Ok I think I can do that I saw that dude from Orileys do that too....but its back out now
the past few days Ive been taking pics to compare yep they are stuck in a raise position....

 

One observation: with the correct carb, there would be no need to get a different intake or new high dollar hot air tubes in order to get the choke working when a simple electric choke coil will do the job. I got one from a salvage yard for $7.

 

Good morning!!! Guten Morgen!!!! Buenos Dias!!!

anyways in a awesome mood today been throwing a little extra overtime and the check....well..Im a happy girl right now...


Let's see if DnD feels like starting today...damn its Friday I want to drive my Cutlass to work....


anyways just wanted to say hello to my favorite peeps


got my Cowboys coffee cup and just my old cowboy boy boots on..ready for the day....Lets Roll

 

Excellent point.

The correct carb is a 4MC, which will accept an electric choke assembly, which would work fine.

I hadn't thought of that.

- Eric

 

I have seen secondary metering rods lift out of their holes (fixed jets) in the bowl and jam open the flaps too so you may want to take the hanger screw off and lift out the rods before resetting the tension and set screw for the air valve , re install the secondary metering rods and hanger and then of course replace the vacuum pull off and see how it runs then. I don't see any reason to go with another carb. Any Qjet will need to be calibrated correctly. With her living in deep S TX there really is little need for a choke either. I would see whats in it and set up the primary jets and rods in the default normal performance tune of about a 72 jet and 42 rod. +/- a jet size or rods size not that big a deal. Ballpark 70-73 jets and 40-44 primary rods). See whats in it.

 

Question....*--* what do uall recommend for security....just wondering

 

I prefer my 357. My bride likes her .38 special.

 

 

 

We're havin fun now!

 

Geez a pistola..ayayaya...I can't even buy a bb gun...


I tried one time and was denied...but I still don't know why I was denied maybe..dunno..I should try again...

 

I duuno - Were you under 8 years old at the time? Did the store owner see you eyeballing his plate glass windows before you went in to buy the BB gun?

If you haven't been convicted of a felony or judged incompetent in court, you can buy a gun. A really big one, 'cause you're in Texas.

Of course, if you're not into having one, then don't buy one. A dog and a kill switch will probably do the trick, and you won't have to worry about whether you left it on the floor in the restroom (true story, and boy that cop was embarrassed when she came back for it).

Personally, I've got 'em, but I don't carry one, mostly because they're just too darned heavy, and they get in the way of sitting down.

Whatever floats your boat.

- Eric

 

Know I really need to get one used to have one for a very long time until my xhusband made me get rid of it..


and I have always had 2 dogs since Im a single chic...one inside and one outside..they are my ears....


speaking of floating my boat

 

I encouraged my wife to get a gun - if she's going to kill me in my sleep, I'd rather she shoot me than stab me - it's quicker.

- Eric

 

I agree, just don't leave the dog in the car.

The kill switch is a very good idea. I like using it on the ignition instead of the starter - if the starter doesn't turn, a would-be thief will probably realize there is a switch. If the starter turns but the engine won't fire, well that's just another day in the life of a 40+ year old car.

 

morning boys, lets see if I can get that dog on inspection sticker..Im going to go by new bulbs and hopefully they wont burn out until after the inspection


need to cut my grass now that's its stopped raining too....it so long....

 

Get a dog like this...
Gonzo_2.jpg

That can also do this...


36_15_271_zps52c3ab1c.gif36_15_271_zps52c3ab1c.gif36_15_271_zps52c3ab1c.gif

 

I'm at part store.. The bulb will not go in...and when it does...and i turn headlights on...the bulb get hot...burns out.. The guy at auto store tried to...and i asked some stranger too...it will not sit 1157 amber even the reg clear bulbs..at inspection station wish me luck

 

Too too funny ok...❤ it..mmmmm....i got the Shepard so I'm half way there

 

You must have some wires crossed, or melted together, and the bulb is completing the circuit. Also, for it to smoke the bulb, the fuse must be bypassed. That's going to take some detective work.

 

Ha. I've been worried that my light wouldn't pass inspection...well when he asked me to turn lights on I turned off blinker...so my light and blinkers passed but my emergency brake failed...wth

 

No lie. I had a dog drive my car away once.

"Don't look now buddy, but your dog's driving your car."

- Eric

 

Its a HOT one down here...jeez...the lawn mower was a pain in the AZZ to start....but I did cut the long weed and grass next back yard...but its so hot...The inspection guy said I didn't need a sticker with the classic plates..I said ok he's like you still want me to check it I said sure..so the emergency brake does not work and I had my muffler welded so no exhaust from there any more...so when the muffler guy lifted the car I asked him If I could take a look..and I saw a cable from the front leading to the back cut or broken not sure..could that be why the emergency braqkes aren't wking I will post a picture

 

Sounds like it. If you need an emergency brake cable, you should be able to get one at the local auto parts store. A bit annoying to install, but not a huge deal, especially in a car that hasn't spent decades in rock salt.

- Eric

 

That would be a good reason for them not to work. I thought you had regular plates on your car? Classic car plates in Texas require an annual inspection, Antique car plates do not.

http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/RSD/VI/uniqueVeh.htm