brown7373

My apology if you took my comments as condescending. They were not intended that way. I have no idea your level of experience or familiarity with cars in general or this Olds in particular. There are people of varied experience on this site, from professionals to novices who don't know which end of the screw driver to hold. When doing the basics, it is easy to overlook or forget some of them. Even an experienced airplane pilot goes down the preflight checklist so he doesn't miss something, even though he has done it 1000 times before.

becerra66

here's the before pics I went to the carb man hopefully u can see the wire twisted on top of choke..


He rambled on for about 15 mind explaining to me whats wrong with the existing carb, which does not belong to this car...he explained about some springs tubes that should feed to the back and blah blah blah..


Then he started to adjust the carb...WHOAAAAAA sounds smoother..different...he asked me to put on drive adjusted...he did a good job I must say..everything I was reading on ho to adjust but went right over my head..he did exactly what I was reading to do...whew!!!!!


then he took me back inside showing me this carb here...334.00


so or now I might have bought me some time till next paydate with no bills to pay...lol


gong outside to tackle the signal lights...stay close to me today....

becerra66

apology accepted brown7373


will kiss and make up later gotta go outside for now

oldcutlass

Ok now I see you have no choke, its tied open, and not all the way. The parts your missing are the choke coil, the hotair tubes that go into the manifold, etc. The Edelbrock carb is ok, however it will require an adapter plate to go from a spreadbore to a squarebore. Then you would need to provide power for an electric choke and adjust your throttle linkage so that it opens all the way. Also if you are using a stock air filter housing it may not work with the new carb because of the electric choke.

MDchanic

These pics are definitely clearer, but I'm still not sure which thing you're pointing out in this picture:




I would say those nylon ties are not OEM parts...




And I would not bother getting a new carb. unless there's something significantly wrong with this one.
A rebuild kit and a few hours at the kitchen table is a lot less expensive, and you learn something, too.

I'm glad it's running better now.

I guess you really don't need a choke in Sunny Texas. If you do, you could easily install a manual choke from the auto parts store.

- Eric

oldcutlass

There seems to be a kink in the fuel line where it goes into the carburetor filter inlet. That needs to be corrected.

becerra66

But can we switch gears for a second PLEASE


Trying to fix the blinker situation


Blinkers work until I turn on the head lights, then they stop blinking...the back blinker still work with or without the lights....


any suggestions what that broken wire could be from

MDchanic

I can't really tell which wire is which in that picture, but your problem is probably a dirty bulb or socket, an improper bulb or improperly inserted bulb, or a bad ground between the socket and the rest of the car.

I'd remove all of the signal bulbs, clean them and their sockets well, make sure they're all 1157 bulbs, and test the sockets' continuity to ground if you have a tester.

- Eric

becerra66

Which one do I use.. And what settings.and just touch inside of socket

MDchanic

Turn the yellow meter dial to the position that's about 6:30 on a clock, which says "200 Ohms," and then hold one lead against a good frame ground (or the battery (-) terminal if you can reach it) and the other inside the socket, against the wall, it should read Zero Ohms. 1 or 2 is probably okay, but that's 1 or 2 Ohms, NOT 1 or 2 K-Ohms or MegaOhms. You may need to scrape the frame or wherever to be sure you've got good contact.

Alternatively, turn the dial to the 2:30 position, where it says "20V" DC, attach the red lead to a live (+) and touch the inside wall of the socket with the black lead, and the meter should read about 12.5V.

The other meter is for testing household AC current. Electricians use these - they're a nice, versatile tool, and impossible to kill, but they're not for cars.

- Eric

cjsdad

If the wrong bulbs have been installed, or the correct bulbs have been installed wrong in the turn signal socket it will cause the problems you are describing. The correct "turn signal" bulb is the 1157 like Eric mentioned. They have little nubs on the side that lock them into the socket and the nubs are at different height so the bulbs will only fit the correct way. However! Knuckle draggers and other sufficiently talented fools can and do override that every day! Also, those same knuckle draggers and fools are capable of installing 1156 bulbs that can short the parking light circuit with the turn signal circuit. The 1157 bulbs have two contacts on the base and two filaments inside. The 1156 has only one contact and the nubs are at the same height, hopefully stopping them from being installed into the 1157 socket.

If the 1157 bulb is installed backwards your parking light will burn much brighter than normal and the turn signal will be weak or hard to notice with a parking lamp that is too bright. This sounds a lot like what you have.

becerra66

Ok forget it...no short to the lights...it was the bulbs.. Akthough they were 1157....the kittle ***** on there...were allowing me to push and twist...got 2 news the went right in...

MDchanic

So you fixed it?

becerra66

they were 1157 but one was a 1157xalf and the other was a 1157ka.....


the little ***** on the bottom were squared..making it impossible to sit in the socket secured...so frustrating that was


BUT YES WE FIXED IT!!!!!!! IM SO EXCITED


I can go get my inspection sticker now and pay the regular fee of 14.50 instead of having to buy one for 40.00 bks lol


So of course gotta go for a cruise now....

MDchanic

See, that's the good thing about the South: good old fashioned corruption.

Up here, everyone's so full of themselves, they'd take it as a personal insult if you offered them more than the $12.50 that the sticker costs.

- Eric

becerra66

Here's my scenario


Cruising and smkin minding my own business right ...cops pull me over cuz I don't have a sticker right get a ticket, get busted, court cost etc righttttt


My scenario - cant pass inspection go pay extra cash right..got a sticker cruising and smkin minding my own business...problem solved....

oldcutlass

Go get Antique Car plates and never get an inspection again. Problem solved.

becerra66

@ oldcutlass when I went downtown to register car I tried that first she said that with a Antique plate then I can only drive it to an from car shows, but with the classic I can drive anytime..
So that's what I did....but I tried

oldcutlass

Lets just say I've never been given a ticket for driving mine when I feel like it.

MDchanic

Yes, but they'd have to catch you to give you a ticket...

- Eric

oldcutlass

It's not hard to spot Eric, 1 license plate vs 2 and no registration sticker on windshield. Although I'm up here in N Texas vs Terry in S Central. It's just not one of those laws really applied around here. She can always say she was just taking it out for a test drive.

MDchanic

Of course, I meant to imply that you drive so fast that they couldn't give you a ticket, but sometimes these things just fall flat on the interwebs...

becerra66

I was about to say r u from Texas...yes you are...well maybe the chic gave me the wrong info...that sucks mannnnn...I feel robbed...

oldcutlass

Yes Terry, I lived in the San Antonio area for 25 years and here for 11. In fact I blew through San Antonio last week going to Alice Texas to visit the in laws. Haven't been through there in 5 years. Traffic really sux on 281.

70Wcars

I saw your Thread tonight and just wanted to let you know I live in San Antonio and do quite a bit of work with Olds and Quadrajet Carbs in particular. Contact me if I can help as I hate to see you spend any $$ needlessly. I have correct year Carbs for your car if need be, and advice is free.

Danny

becerra66

25 years is a long time to live...some where...yep 281 still sucks...but I'm lucky cause I'm always going opposite the traffic...i live off 410 & Babcock...i work off 1604 & bulverde rd...Alice...i go by there when I drive down to brownsville Texas & south padre island 2 home town....1st hometown born charlotte north carolina

becerra66

70W cars aka Danny....yes I will take u up on that...I would surely appreciate...someone to look at it...

becerra66

@ (other eric)....i forgot to say hello in last message...anyways..hope u had a good day...evening...etc...(*--*)

becerra66

I warmed up the car like always as I begin to put on reverse the gen light came on for 20 secs then turned back off...then I noticed the blinker light on the dash was on like when the bulb goes bad...So I turned on blinker and it wasnt blinking again

Here's a fresh
this weekend wanted to fix blinkers cause when I turn on the headlights the front blinkers stop working

So I cleaned out the sockets as I was told looked at the bulbs they were wrng bulbs installed new ones they worked great for 3 days...
Now I am back to square one again...
I think theres something wrong with my sockets...maybe they took they from another car and used them there...
Eric do you happen to know a part or model number for the blinker sockets

MDchanic

You just need to clean the sockets really well with a ScotchBrite pad or a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.

Also, the little springs on the contacts of the sockets may be weak, not pushing the contacts against the bottoms of the bulbs strongly enough. They can be replaced by unsoldering the contacts, swapping the springs, and resoldering. You can use springs from ball point pens, but you can probably find better springs at any good hardware store.

The sockets themselves can be replaced, in theory, but the exact ones are unobtainable, and using universal ones may require a considerable amount of fiddling.

Also, use Vaseline or grease when you put the bulbs back in, to help keep moisture out.

- Eric

tru-blue 442

Terry, get yourself one of these. It's called a chassis service manual, CSM for short.
Through E-bay, they are cheap enough. Make sure you get the '72 manual.
I guarantee you will get lost in it for 2 hrs after receiving it. They are sweet.
Edit: This is a 72, correct?

MDchanic

+1. And a Fisher Body Manual, too.

- Eric

tru-blue 442

Agreed, I have both. And both for the 69 as well. The only way to go Oldsie.

becerra66

So as long as It says Chassic service manual Im good cuz there several online...and hate to buy the wrong one

So the Chassis service manual and the Assembly manual r different

tru-blue 442

So the Chassis service manual and the Assembly manual r different[/QUOTE]

Some... Just havin fun wich ya. Both have great info.

MDchanic

Yes, the CSM and the FBM are manuals that the dealers used to fix cars.
The AM is a copy of a manual that was used by the factories as a guide to production.

All of these are available in digital form, as well, often for free or very little.

- Eric

becerra66

Very interesting @cjsdad...Yes I looked at those ***** and numbs and all around the bulbs cuz I was thinking the same way u are...I am critical when it comes to putting things in sockets fixtures etc....
I cleaned the sockets already too , I know Eric MDchanic mentioned to do that as well...he also mentioned to use vaseline or lubricant for bulbs ... I used that tiny pkage they gave me at parts store..I still feel its the sockets like they dont go to car like everything else...I will take some pics when I get home tonight....
So confused!!!!! (-__-)

becerra66

heeehohohohahahah giggle giggle Eric

Yep Test/ messaging has no emotions....but I got it...
thats when It reminded me of one of my sayings

Your never take me a live Copper

becerra66

So frustrated...ok so I am very picky who I let work on my cars, so Saturday I let someone touch the carburetor...AHHHHHH big mistake..I'm so pissed at myself..after he adjusted yes it does sound better BUT I have noticed that I am using more gas and its idling tooooo low that its shutting off...I also noticed the choke plates think thats what they r called they are all open almost like stuck open...all I know is I top of the tank with 12 bucks this morning..normally I only use about 8 bucks of gas to go and come from work today same trip I used all my gas that I RAN OUT yes sir I ran out of gas right in front of my house WTHECK mannnnn.....Jeez I should of never.....

oldcutlass

The choke plate needs to be all the way open. Adjusting the carb A/F mixture screws is not going to effect your fuel economy. Poor tune will. You can raise your idle by adjusting the screw on the drivers side of the carb. You may have picked up a tank of fuel that had more ethanol than others or you in the summer blend on fuel.