Also got the wheel wells out and some minor frame cleanup started

 

Oh my! Those look pretty sketchy to me. I thought they would be in better shape. Looks like the bearings failed on those at some time and really did a number on the spindle. Here's what my spindles looked like at 120K miles.

 

New spindles it is - thanks for the pic! I couldn’t find them on rock auto - any recommendations?

 

You could reach out to Scott Winn (Oldspackrat this site). He probably has some OEM ones that are decent. If he doesn't have them, check with Eric Jensen (Jensenracing77). Both of those guys are pretty close and won't sell you bad stuff. The spindles will be interchangeable with several years. Specify you want disc brake spindles, they are slightly different than drums. I've linked their PMs to the blue links in this post for your convenience.

OR, you could order them from The Parts Place. They're $105 / pair

 

Thank you so much for your help!

 

The other question I had was - will the front end components (Moog) insta rust out like my brake master cylinder did? Do I need to clear coat or something? Or are they finished already?

 

They'll probably develop some surface rust after awhile. My replacement master cylinder leaked from new (unfortunate) but the outside surface stayed looking new. Honestly I think it's a bit of a crapshoot. I'd guess most of them now have some kind of coating on them to prevent oxidation or tarnish.

 

Remember that the bearing doesn't actually ride on the spindle, it rides on the inner race that is pressed onto the spindle.

 

Good point! - already ordered spindles anyways - can’t hurt to replace them - but why would the spindles get so chewed up then? I remember the cage was fubar on passenger bearing when I did the brakes so I replaced all bearings - could it be that they froze and spun the inner race? Also ... I ran the new bearings on those old spindles (probably 60 - 70 miles) would that mess up new bearings? (Need to inspect them and outer races as well just to see) or do you think I might be all right with those bearings?

 

I've seen a couple videos that mentioned the "coating" on the new front end parts; particularly the tie rod ends. They said it's delicate and will wear off fast. I went ahead and painted mine. FWIW.

 

Thanks

 

Spindle wear is result of inner race spinning due to bad rollers. If the spindle is no longer round, i’d replace it. Measure it with caliper (a cheapo HF will work). First top to bottom, then compare side to side. Next, repeat on unworn portion and compare. Slight discoloration is not an issue, but out of round will improperly load inner race and cause race distortion that leads to seizing rollers and spun races.

 

Thanks - yeah they were bad - already have the replacements - now I just need time to paint and put it all back together

 

And hope you have all the right parts. Rockauto sent me three inners and one outer tie rod. Ugh.

 

Ok, I have to ask. Do you also have replacement spindle washers that go between the spindle and backing plate?

 

Is that even a thing? (That means no hehe) ok I guess I’ll have to order that - thanks tons for anticipating my mistakes and setting me straight!

 

Well at least I'm not the only one waiting for parts, lol. Allan, that graphic layout looks familiar. Is that The Parts Place?

 

Ive got a big box of Moog in the garage - I hope they sent the correct stuff 😳

 

I think from the part # “INL” 10443 it is inline tube?

 

Correct. Don't feel bad, I went through this myself.

 

Finally got to do some painting - rain for the next few days will slow me down

 

Is that the Por 15? It looks good. But aren't there supposed to be two lower control arms?

Edit: My bad. You had to order a replacement, didn't you. So, are we both waiting on control arm deliveries?

 

I have por15 but painting is a huge weakness of mine - I opted to primer / paint / clear coat them - not sure if I will regret it but I know how to take it apart now should I choose to redo them in the future (not that I want to) at any rate they will look better than they did - yeah the missing lower arm is brand new and shiny - hope to be able to get close to as pretty with the other lower - we will see - as far as my rear lower control arms - I ordered the inserts for the open control arms to box them in - is that what you mean by sleeves? It does “VV” around the bolt holes so I imagine they will support bolting down the sway bar - I have my parts already - I just need work to lighten up and the rain to knock it off so I can finish painting and start slapping stuff together

 

Well, I don't know why we work so hard to make this stuff look good. Our LCAs will be covered in bugs and road dirt within a weeks time, lol.

By "sleeved" I mean metal cylinders spanning the gap between the sides of your trailing arms so they don't fold closed (or even just a little) when tightening the bolts. I suppose you could just use a couple pipe nipples the bolts would slide through; just cut to the correct length.

You can kind of see the sleeves poking out the side on my tubulars...

 

These are the inserts to box my lower control arms - think the bolt hole surrounds would be sufficient to avoid “collapse” when bolting on sway bar?

 

And good point on the bugs and road dirt - i don’t know why I stress the painting so much - I’m building a driver not a show car - just since I have it apart - might as well clean it up - just going to do my best and call it good

 

Correct. Those inserts are welded to the open part of the LCA and will provide the stiffness you need to avoid any collapse. The collapse doesn't occur from bolting on the sway bar per se, it's there to provide rigidity to the control arm when the car is cornering and transferring load from side to side via the sway bar.

 

Thanks Allan

 

Yup, that's what I've used in the past. Go to Lowes, buy a piece of black pipe (or long pipe nipple) and cut your spacers from it. Works just fine.

Hey guys, I'm about ready to press my oval bushings in. Any tips on this? I've never done oval before and not sure the best method to press on the flange. It looks like the rubber extends completely over the outer bushing shell flange except for (4) notched locations. Anyone have suggestions on a homemade mandrel to press these in? Can I simply press over the rubber with a steel disc larger enough to catch the entire face of the bushing?

 

I used a ball joint press. Insert some PVC (1/2 cut to C shape) to the same width as the inner part of the CA to stabilize it when you press the bushing in. Lube the bushing before install. Goes in much easier.

 

Ok, so simply press over top of rubber and flange? I don't need to actually press on the metal flange?

 

Thanks - I’ve already done the rear control arm bushings - only new ground is the oval bushings and the upper bushings with the shaft - I’m pretty comfortable with this part (they just suck) - after you press in one side of upper - put shaft in then use the correct ball joint cup and physically hammer the other one in? That sound right? I know to make sure shafts are in correctly

 

Pressed my first bushings in - this is the “new” lower control arm to replace the slightly bent one - since I’m not good with paint my question is... is this what powder coat is? It’s faking off pretty bad and pretty easily - how would you guys handle this? Peel and paint? Or Touch Up the peels or what? Thanks gang - (and can’t get the weather to cooperate to finish clear coating the other three)

 

I've never seen powder coat flake like that. Looks more like it's an epoxy paint that wasn't primed properly. It's in an area that's not going to be seen so I'd just spray some Rustoleum black over it and be done. Did youu clean the paint out of the inner parts of the bushing holes? That also makes the bushing go in easier.when it's just a metal/metal contact with some grease to help it slide into place.

 

i’ll do that - thanks. Kinda worried about the rest flaking off after I reassemble it though

 

I did grease it up with silicone based grease - didn’t have much trouble getting the bushings in - used the ball joint press kit and pcv spacer - worked well even for the oval

 

That stinks about your powder coat, man. Like Allan said, spray (or brush) on some Rust-oleum. I used it on my original LCAs and it lasted well. A piece of advice; test all your grease zerks before you get it all back together. I had a bunch that were locked up and wouldn't break free. I had to go out and buy a pack and replace a bunch, which was pain when it was all together. I even had one break when I pulled the gun off. And these were the Moogs.

 

Like Allan said - I’m not sure it’s actually powder coat - but I will get it handled - Thanks for the tip - mine are Moog as well - 1st one I looked at had like half a zerk? ... no idea - luckily my step dad has like a thousand new ones - I tested it by screwing it on (wasn’t already on but in the bag) to see which direction the angle faced so when I push the ball joint in it will be pointing the correct way when tight - I believe the lower bj zerks are angled and uppers are straight? (I will look in csm unless someone beats me to that answer before I look it up)

 

They should all be straight.

 

@72442455
That sucks about powder coat. Ive had same issues where once the coat cracks it comes off in sheets. I plan to paint with 2-part epoxy after all the bushings and balljoints are installed.

Did you press directly on the oval rubber, or did you use the four notches? Ive always pressed round budhings on the steel flange.