I believe he's running iron bow tie heads. Thanks for the engine lesson Mark. I didn't relize the rod ratio would affect it like that!

 

No problem.
With a shorter rod ratio the piston doesn't dwell at tdc as long so its less prone to detonation.
Thanks.

 

Here is another choice that supposedly works with the ARH http://www.crossmembers.com/shop/cro...qkaid8houih3m5.


The ARH tucking up tight to the floor is one of the reasons I'm ordering them due to my car being lowered.

 

Everything got buttoned up last night, double and triple checked everything, emptied the fuel tank and filled it with fresh gas.

Couldn't wait to get home from work today. Cranked the engine a few times with distributor disconnected to get the oil flowing, connected the distributor, pumped the gas couple of times and it started right up.

Thank you Mark, you the man.

I hope the link works.

 

Congrats, that sounds like a nice fat rumble!
Very clean engine bay, if you still want to tidy up the ignition wires the R&M bracket 1113S is very nice.

 

Thank you. Those brackets do look nice, I would need longer wires for them.
I've been waiting to hear that rumble for a long time.

 

Sounds great!!! Cant wait to hear how the first few drives go.

 

Looks great and sounds great. Long time coming for sure.

I bet you are going to have one fine weekend.

 

Thank you guys. Hearing it run and moving it out of garage and onto the trailer on its own felt great. Can't believe its almost done. Getting the exhaust done tomorrow, few more thigs to finish up and it should be ready for next weekend.

 

Got the exhaust done, brought the car home and took it for quick drive around the neighborhood..........

 

Hi 70Cutty. I'm doing the same build and would like to know where you got your Billet Pulleys and water inlet, and other accessories. Great looking engine!! Thanks. Bill. wfg4u@aol.com

 

Where did you get that thermostat housing?

Ram Air Restoration sells some nice pulleys!

 

Thank you.

Pulleys I got from CVF RACING. I also ended up getting their alternator bracket, you can see it in the picture. Good quality parts, alt. bracket and all the pulleys lined up perfect. The water neck I got from RobbMC, I don't think you can get them anymore, alternator is TuffStuff polished 160Amp, Lokar oil dipstick, wire loom bracket are R&M specialties part #1113-90-P (thank you for the suggestion fullsizelover), I also changed the wires to moroso ultra40 135 degree boot to clear the steering.

 

Awsome engine,
Have you some part nr on this rubberhose with bend?

 

Looks awesome!

 

Thank you guys. I started collecting parts and pieces for this build long time ago.
Mark did awesome job on the engine, sounds great with the cam he selected, runs even better.

Oldsragger part number is Goodyear 63725

here is a crappy video of the ride yesterday.

 

Your car looks and sound awesome. I spent some time today on the phone with Mark and have almost finalized a build almost exactly like yours except that I will go with Multiport Injection. I was so impressed with his willingness to share information and answer questions ranging from stall converters to exhaust sizes. He has such a good reputation around here, I feel very comfortable going with him for my engine.

I am attaching an image of my 69 HO Tribute that continues to reduce the kids inheritance day by day. I will be posting a thread on here to document what is going on.

 

In one word OUTSTANDING. Truly a very good job done and it shows your attention to detail. The engine looks and sounds great.Sometimes when a guy starts collecting parts and pieces and it takes a long time they end up with parts that don't need or just not what functions well.In your case looks like you made wise choices.Thanks for sharing all the aspects of this build.

 

He sure has answered all mine as well and I have had a lot of stupid ones too! He's doing a stroker build for me late this month into next month! I can't wait!

 

I do know that he has been great to work with and looking at some of the threads around this site, he is not afraid to stand up for his work. As with anyone, he has had some hiccups along the way, but he certainly does not dodge problems.

We are shooting for an early fall time frame for mine. The car will not be free for any work until the middle of August anyway. Too many shows and fun this summer.

 

Mark has helped me with my work BIG time. When it comes time for the 425 in the 64 I will be calling him.

 

Thank you jeure and wr1970. It's my pride and joy.

Mark is definitely awesome to work with. I also had bunch of (dumb) questions about the build.
So far I out about 1100 miles on the engine. It runs cool, never goes over 185º even in a 95º day it was still at 185º. Oil pressure is 40-45psi at cruising and 15 at idle, with Mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic oil.
After I dropped it in and hooked everything up, it started right up. All I did was verify the timing and minor adjustments on the carb.
I am extremely happy with the performance, it's exactly what I expected and wanted. The car is a joy to drive.
If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't change a thing......aside from the Milodon oil pan that had stress cracks after the first cruise but that was not Mark's fault.

I see a lot of posts with people having all sorts of problems with their newly built engines, that just confirms that I did the right thing by having Mark build it. Money well spent.

 

[QUOTE=70cutty;819881]Thank you.

Pulleys I got from CVF RACING. I also ended up getting their alternator bracket, you can see it in the picture. Good quality parts, alt. bracket and all the pulleys lined up perfect. The water neck I got from RobbMC, I don't think you can get them anymore, alternator is TuffStuff polished 160Amp, Lokar oil dipstick, wire loom bracket are R&M specialties part #1113-90-P (thank you for the suggestion fullsizelover), I also changed the wires to moroso ultra40 135 degree boot to clear the steering./QUOTE]

I looked at the Lokar site and there isn't an Olds specific oil dipstick. Do you know the Lokar part number or what application it was for?


Thanks

 

I used Lokar 5008 for LS engines. You have to grind a little of the bottom hexagon nut and cut it to length.

 

Milodon quality is really suspect.

I lost an engine due to a faulty weld on an oil pump pickup.

Cost me $5,000 to fix, and I had to sue them.

Milodon is a poorly run company with poor QC.

 

I agree, and poor customer service as well.
I'm running rocket racing pick up and oil pan now.

 

Wow, great thread 70cutty.....lots of good info.

I am getting ready to put heads on my 455 and a hotter cam . Hope to eventually do a full build stroker. Your dyno sheet looks great.

Having run this motor for some time now , anything you would have done differently ? Thanks in advance.....

 

Just read on another thread somewhere that RobbMc is going to be making another run of those water necks if he gets interest from about 10-12 more people.

 

How much are they Trip?

 

I think around $100-120

 

I think this was the thread

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ater-neck.html

 

Thanks man.
I think the only thing I would've done differently is drilling the crank for manual transmission.

 

A couple of quick questions for 70cutty:

#1) On the CVF Racing pulleys, did you get the 3-groove or 2-groove crank pulley?
#2) Where the CVF Racing pulleys the 5.6" or 6.0" for you're water pump?

I plan to run a Vintage Air setup (or similar) and don't have an old water pump, so I need to purchase everything. I like the billet pulleys and they seem to be a good price. I'm not sure what size water pump (will be using electric fans)and a 2 or 3-groove crank pulley. I'll obviously have PS pump, alternator, A/C compressor and of course the water pump and crank pulley.

I'd appreciate any recommendations. I was considering the FlowKooler water pumps.

 

Water pump is 6" milodon
Crank pulley is 2 groove, everything lined up perfect with 6" water pump.

 

I haven't been posting here on CO much lately, but I have been visiting and reading stuff on regular basis.
Just thought I give an update on my engine that Mark built, and I hope I don't jinx myself by posting this.

Yesterday I took the family for a 200+ mile cruise and the engine has officially hit 30,000 mile mark. It's still runs as the day I installed it, if not better. I live in SF Bay Area so cruising weather is all year round. Usually I put about 2-3k miles on each of my cars yearly, but Cutlass is my beater so it gets driven a lot and often hard.

Some minor issues I encountered along the way, NONE of them were Mark's fault.

Milodon 7qt pan developed hairline cracks along the bottom and almost destroyed my new engine. Thankfully I wasn't too far from home and there was still plenty of oil left in the engine. Milodon told me that it was caused by oil pickup that was installed incorrectly and touching the bottom of the pan. I checked the clearance and it was about 3/8", however Milodon didn't wanna hear that nor were they interested in pictures. The guy I was talking to acted like I was bothering him. I pulled the engine, installed Rocket Racing pan and pickup and it's been trouble free.

After receiving the engine from Mark I pulled the valve covers off to paint them blue. After installing the engine in the car, I noticed a very small leak which I thought was the rear main seal. It was few drips on the floor but it was driving me crazy. I was planning on pulling the engine back out to address that. At about 6k miles I pulled the valve covers off again to check and adjust the valves, I put the valve covers back on with new (thick) gaskets and the leak was gone. Ever since then not a drop of oil on the floor.

eBay distributor lasted about 3k miles before the oil found its way up the shaft and into the cap and started misfiring, since then I've been running my old MSD ready to run.

Other than that, there have been no issues. There is no smoking, blow by, ticking or any other issues. Oil pressure is about 18-20 at idle and 40-45 at cruising speed. Temp usually stays at 185.
I have to say I'm extremely happy with my engine and it's performance. Car is a blast to drive, more power than tires can handle.

If I had to do it again, I would've had Mark machine a pilot hole for a stick shift conversion.