I have 72 U code Supreme and need to replace the headers. I prefer long tube, but from what I understand the engine needs to be removed. Is this true?

 

No, but you will need to remove the oil filter adapter housing and you will need to raise the engine off the mounts to get them in.

 

Plan on removing oil filter housing (3 bolts- need new gasket), removing the starter and jacking-up the front of the car some.

 

Consider the Chinese Stainless headers, can't be beat for the price.

 

Do you have more info?

 

These?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Olds-Cu...oAAOSwaGBbiOly

 

There's no way a set of headers can be designed to fit the Cutlass AND the 65-70 Delta 88/98. The 65-70 Delta 88/98 were rear steer configuration. The only headers that will fit these cars would be fully custom. You can get reproduction exhaust manifolds from Thronton to run true dual exhaust though.

http://thorntonmusclecars.com/produc...aust-manifolds

For the OP, don't be fooled by manufacturers saying their headers will only fit the Cutlass and not the Cutlass Supreme or Cutlass S. This is a common error. Good luck with the install.

 

Why not just go with the cast iron factory bolt on exhaust manifolds? They flow well and are a lot easier to install. They're what your car came with from the factory.

 

Consider a starter heat shield(not a blanket) for either set-up.
Consider a head pipe blanket if you go with OEM manifolds/pipes.
Both the shield and pipe blanket will keep your starter healthy.

 

That depends upon your definition of "well".

 

Kenneth, they flow well enough to be used on W30's so that's good enough for me.

 

W-30s used different exhaust manifolds than the "regular" 455 engines.

 

How so? I don't see different manifolds listed in the parts manual for 72 455's. Keep in mind Dave's car is a U code and from factory they'd have put the most efficient exhaust on it they had. I know having the BBO dual exhaust system is significantly better than a crossover pipe system. I did put headers on my 350 once. I didn't like them and I honestly couldn't tell any difference in performance, so I ended up with an N10 blockoff plate. It works just fine, not as efficient as headers for sure, but good enough that my butt dyno doesn't worry about it.

 

I'll defer to the fella who did dyno comparisons:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...3-headers.html

 

I put Thornton shorty headers on my '74,weren't too bad,but found a brand new set of blackjack full length for a very good price. Talking about throwback,lol,but installed with very little difficulty,didn't even have to drop starter. I would be interested in selling the Thornton if that's something you might want? They fit great and bolted right too the original true dual exhaust

 

If you do go with headers also go with a hi torque mini starter so you don't have hot start issues,that happened to me and the mini starter cured it.

 

I've already installed the full length headers,have to say am very happy with them. Installation went well even,have been on a couple months now,and so far no starter issues,but that hot start problems i am very well aware of and am prepared to go the mini starter route if need be,thanks.

 

Blackjack headers,'74 cutlass supreme,455