[QUOTE=Super88chris;1544585]and no I have not removed the shoes

 

Hey guys I’m back, and wow there’s a lot of posts to catch up on. Thank you for all that. Yes you’re correct on what’s been happening with my gen since it’s been going out. And yes I believe my VR is grounded through the base of it. Yes I still need to check the field windings. My rebuild kit should be here this sat. Sorry there’s just the overall to all those posts. And there is a -30 and +30 on my amp gauge in my car if that answers your question. When the gen worked and was charging my battery it was at almost 14 volts. So I don’t have a tap or a vise but I do have a drill if that helps? Sorry if this vague compared to all the detailed posts

 

Need the information is this Post #193

 

ok I got it boss sounds easy enough and I should check it today

 

It isn't a race for me - take your time.

 

lol I know but I been wanting to work on it but life gets in the way you know

 

tomorrow is the day my rebuild kit comes, only thing I’m worried about is getting that bushing out, did we decide what my best bet is for that? Seeing as how I have minimal tools. If there’s something cheap I can go get I will

 

I hate to break it to you, but if you don't have some tools and at least a little money to spend, old cars will be a challenge. Go look around at Harbor Freight. They have some cheap tool sets that have the basics you need to get by. Most of us didn't start out with Craftsman or Snap On tools. One other thing you really need is a Factory Service Manual. You can find them on ebay and shop them for the best price. Prices are all over the place. Get an original one and not one of the repros. It will pay for itself quickly. It is the best money you will spend on you car.

 

I saw. The shop manual on rock auto for cheap is that ok? And I’ll buy what tools I need for the bushing but I’m just asking I’ll need to buy. I have basic tool sockets renches that kinda stuff. Just not heavy duty stuff. Do I need a tap or a bolt to get that bushing out?

 

DO NOT buy the manual from Rock Auto. That will be a reproduction. You want an original with some greasy fingerprints on it. There are several on ebay with the cheapest one being $20.00. It is a little tired but that is okay. The next one is $37.69 and looks to be in better condition. You can be the judge and you know what your budget is. DO NOT get the CD version either. Here is a link to the $20.00 one. Other are at the bottom.

1955 Oldsmobile Shop Service Repair Manual | eBay

 

I tried to provide you several options based on the videos (above) I posted. Charlie weighed in on suggestions in Post #178
Since we're not clairvoyant we don't know what tools you have (do you have a vice?). In any case, it's going to require some finesse, patience & prudence on your part to decide what best works for you. Each of us might likely remove the bushing a little differently. The one side of the bushing looks very thin from wear. Personally, I'd work on collapsing that really thin side of the bushing w/ whatever tool(s) you have available & yanking that sucker out of there. (You could saw it out w/ a Dremel if you had a Dremel) Just don't deeply gouge or round-out the hole which accommodates the bushing. Good Luck!

 

ok thanks guys. No as I said I don’t have a vice, I’ll probably take it to the hardware store and use what I need or see what works. I still have to test the field windings

 

I tested the field windings and all was good. There was no beep. And I got the bushing out I just chizled it out with a screw driver didn’t take much force so I didn’t damage the end cap, just waiting on the rebuild kit

 

Chris - Good job removing the bushing. Regarding field windings "..all was good...". We need a little more information as was asked above. Please, address the questions being asked:

 

To be honest I wanted to be sure I did it right so I tested the fields on the lowest ohms setting and it came up 7.3 then I tested on that arrow symbol on the multi meter and there was no beep and it came up 007. The video wasn’t really clear to me. My bad if I did it wrong, don’t give up on me yet

 

I provided specific detail(s) on the two measurements you were to perform. I can't think of anything in my post which is confusing. If you have a specific question, ask. Otherwise, please follow the instructions I provided.

 

Do the fields have to be out of the case? Can everything in the case still be hooked up? Besides the armature being out. And ok it’s still apart so I’ll check again.

 

OK. I have things to take care of...you realize both ends of the field windings are unattached/disconnected just like in the video - even though you haven't removed the field windings themselves. It is "that" wire (both ends) in which you need to measure both continuity & resistance.

 

Got it I’ll do that

 

No. It is not a requirement to remove the field windings at this point. Stellar suggested you leave the field windings and the shoes in place in the GEN. That will more or less assist in not having to re-align the field shoes since their position is rather important - they can't be off-centered, flipped around, etc.; so, leaving them in place is a good idea. However, that one wire which emanates from the field windings on both sides cannot be touching anything - both ends need to free so you can get a measurement of continuity & resistance.

 

ok and I just pick an end to test?

 

Chris - No. You’re testing the entire length of that wire. One probe on one end of that wire & the other probe on the other end of that same wire.

 

Ok im certain now

 

You're certain of "what"? This is getting old. PLEASE be specific. You're certain of "what"?

 

The process to check continuity between fields. It is for me to cuz it’s my gen I can’t figure out. My meter is a piece of junk all I hear is it trying to beep. It was 5 bucks so that’s what I get. Just got the new busing in. If it doesn’t work I’ll get a new gen, I’m not an electrical guy never have been

 

Understand this can be frustrating. Make sure battery is good in the meter. I'd really like to see you measure continuity & resistance of that one field windings wire.

FWIW, what we're doing at this point is validating integrity of wiring, armature, collector & field windings wire for any suspect conditions such as continuity, opens, shorts, resistance. This is essentially a "static" test of the wiring/components to help you make an informed decision regarding the re-assembly of your GEN. You may arrive at some point where you've had enough of it all (again, understand it's frustrating) and just want to reassemble the GEN w/ new bushing, bearing & brushes. Don't forget to clean those spaces of carbon build-up in the commutator, spray the armature, perform a good overall cleaning of everything.

A "dynamic" test would be more informative and help to illustrate the actual capabilities of the GEN - something likened to what a GEN rebuild shop would perform. However, this is more or less outside the direction of this thread since you would be measuring the GEN under load (amperage/voltage), etc. while the GEN was actually turning/operating in a "dynamic" state. Do the best you can. Good Luck!

 

A generator thread with 225 posts. That has to be a record. Scrap the generator and put a one wire alternator on it.

 

There have been many long-winded threads on CO, many less significant than this one. Perhaps the OP doesn't want to scrap his generator for a one wire alternator. Chill.

 

I don't need to chill. I have been on this website since 2006 and have seen plenty long threads. I don't care if he has a thousand posts. I was just making a suggestion that would save the OP some time and lots of frustration.

 

Not everyone comes to the table with the same set of skills. What is wrong with allowing someone to learn at their own pace if someone is willing to assist?

 

I understand and trust me I’m frustrated, I’ve never understood electrical. I’m basically just trying to get the gen working and keep my bat charged. This gen won’t put out 14V ever again probably. The battery in the meter is fine but it’s been left outside many times and it’s junk. I but the bushing in cleaned commutator and new brushes and the gen works! But it still goes out. So it’s bumping around in there or something because it goes off and on some times due to RPMs. I didn’t change the front bearing yet so it may be that.

 

Not a thing. I never said there was. Norm has been very patient to help this young man. We all started somewhere. For many of us, it was a long time ago. Nuff said.

 

You should have installed new bearing when it was open. That's why you ordered a kit. You polarized the GEN at the VR?

 

There’s nothing wrong with that. Also remember this stuff is difficult just over text trying to understand new things. I thank you all for all the patience. I’m spending all day tomorrow on this thing again which will include the bearing as well.

 

I admire you pursuing the route you've chosen. Everyone has provided ample suggestions - get a rebuilt GEN, a one wire ALT, etc. You elected this route since $$ was tight. Had you deep pockets, you could easily have gone a different route. At the end of the day, you may still find you're going to need another GEN or ALT. Good Luck!

 

In my experience, when a bearing or bushing goes out in a generator it lets you know, rattle squeak vibration noise, no mistaking it. I wonder if what you are experiencing is the voltage regulator kicking out with a full battery, not showing a charge because it doesn't need one at this time. Just a shot in the dark from afar...Tedd

 

Thank you sir! And you’re exactly right I may get another one but at least now I know how to test and rebuild a gen which I hope I don’t have to do again. And my gen is still shaking and makes noise and it’s probably that bearing! That’s exactly what I was thinking too about the VR cutting it out because my battery is over 12 v and it’s just idling using no power from accessories so I’ve been thinking that too

 

As you have hopefully understood, the armature cannot under ANY circumstances come into contact with either one of the shoes. There must exist an air gap between the armature and both shoes.

 

This is from Post #10, almost a month ago and 200 posts ago. This was excellent advice. Then, down the rabbit hole it went.

 

Yes i understand the armature can’t touch the shoes.