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It’s working still but some times cuts out for a. Few min so I’m not sure if it’s just telling the gen it’s charged enough. When I mean cut out I mean the gauge goes back to center and doesn’t move at all as f the car is off. But I did polarize it the way the VR instructions in the box said to.
It’s working still but some times cuts out for a. Few min so I’m not sure if it’s just telling the gen it’s charged enough. When I mean cut out I mean the gauge goes back to center and doesn’t move at all as f the car is off. But I did polarize it the way the VR instructions in the box said to.
Super 88,
I think that indication is ok. When the engine is at idle, there is not enough RPM--meaning voltage, for the generator to charge the battery. The needle will show a slight discharge.
What is NORMAL is this: at idle, day time, if your foot is on the brake pedal, a slight discharge on the ammeter. As you take your foot off the brake pedal, the brake lights go out, as RPM increases, and the generator goes back to charging. Alternators do not have this problem--why modern cars have alternators instead of generators.
At night you will see a much larger discharge when your headlights are on at idle. Again, the needle should move from a discharge to charging as the RPM goes above idle. Again, these indications are normal for a generator.
Super 88,
I think that indication is ok. When the engine is at idle, there is not enough RPM--meaning voltage, for the generator to charge the battery. The needle will show a slight discharge. What is NORMAL is this: at idle, day time, if your foot is on the brake pedal, a slight discharge on the ammeter. As you take your foot off the brake pedal, the brake lights go out, as RPM increases, and the generator goes back to charging. Alternators do not have this problem--why modern cars have alternators instead of generators. At night you will see a much larger discharge when your headlights are on at idle. Again, the needle should move from a discharge to charging as the RPM goes above idle. Again, these indications are normal for a generator.
I think that indication is ok. When the engine is at idle, there is not enough RPM--meaning voltage, for the generator to charge the battery. The needle will show a slight discharge.
What is NORMAL is this: at idle, day time, if your foot is on the brake pedal, a slight discharge on the ammeter. As you take your foot off the brake pedal, the brake lights go out, as RPM increases, and the generator goes back to charging. Alternators do not have this problem--why modern cars have alternators instead of generators.
At night you will see a much larger discharge when your headlights are on at idle. Again, the needle should move from a discharge to charging as the RPM goes above idle. Again, these indications are normal for a generator.
oh perfect then so it’s seems to be working great. It doesn’t sound to good tho. I put a small amount of oil in like I was told. Maybe the inside foam part needs pb blast still.
oh perfect then so it’s seems to be working great. It doesn’t sound to good tho. I put a small amount of oil in like I was told. Maybe the inside foam part needs pb blast still.
I like it...squeeze every last ounce of breath you can from that beast. You could be living on borrowed time, but until it pukes, chokes, and dies completely you're getting your monies worth. You've been provided a couple options when death does arrive: (1) Two-wire [internal VR] ALT; or (2) there are many folks who rebuild these old GEN units. The old GEN units are Top Sirloin beef steaks.
I like it...squeeze every last ounce of breath you can from that beast. You could be living on borrowed time, but until it pukes, chokes, and dies completely you're getting your monies worth. You've been provided a couple options when death does arrive: (1) Two-wire [internal VR] ALT; or (2) there are many folks who rebuild these old GEN units. The old GEN units are Top Sirloin beef steaks.
I agree lol! I want to keep it as original as possible and preserve it not restore it! If it’s alive after all these years it must mean it can last and it worked good enough for people when it was new. I just tried the alternator cuz it was free and I wanted to keep it going but I’d rather have my gen. Yeah you can do all these modern things like power brakes disc brakes and what not but I’m not interested in all that.
I agree lol! I want to keep it as original as possible and preserve it not restore it! If it’s alive after all these years it must mean it can last and it worked good enough for people when it was new. I just tried the alternator cuz it was free and I wanted to keep it going but I’d rather have my gen. Yeah you can do all these modern things like power brakes disc brakes and what not but I’m not interested in all that.
do you know if a bad battery can cause a gen to smoke and get really hot? Like a bad cell or something
do you know if a bad battery can cause a gen to smoke and get really hot? Like a bad cell or something
Yes, it can. If there is a shorted cell, and voltage drops much below 12V, then the generator would max out amperage, and try to charge the battery for extended times. It's not designed for max output for that long and will get hot.
But, if you can still start the car after a couple of days inactivity, it's probably not the battery. A shorted cell will kill the battery usually in a few hours, certainly overnight. By kill it I mean completely dead, no lights, no clicking, nuthin.
Yes, it can. If there is a shorted cell, and voltage drops much below 12V, then the generator would max out amperage, and try to charge the battery for extended times. It's not designed for max output for that long and will get hot.
But, if you can still start the car after a couple of days inactivity, it's probably not the battery. A shorted cell will kill the battery usually in a few hours, certainly overnight. By kill it I mean completely dead, no lights, no clicking, nuthin.
I’m thinking that’s my problem because I tried to jump start my car yesterday for a long time and it would just slowly crank for a few seconds then die, with jumper cables on. Even before that when I had it running and then shut it off and went back to start it, it would just die before I could even crank it. I mean I’ve had the battery a few month and it was a used one from a junk yard. But it’s 1000 CCA so it would work great if it didn’t have a bad cell. My gen was was charging it but then it got really hot and I saw a spark inside the gen so I shut it off.
I’m thinking that’s my problem because I tried to jump start my car yesterday for a long time and it would just slowly crank for a few seconds then die, with jumper cables on. Even before that when I had it running and then shut it off and went back to start it, it would just die before I could even crank it. I mean I’ve had the battery a few month and it was a used one from a junk yard. But it’s 1000 CCA so it would work great if it didn’t have a bad cell. My gen was was charging it but then it got really hot and I saw a spark inside the gen so I shut it off.
Yup, I think you are right. Time for a new battery. Batteries these days don't last much more than about 4 years. They are fine one minute, then they die the next. If you can afford it, a glass matt battery will last a little longer, but you will have two obstacles. They are expensive, and getting one with the battery posts in the middle can be a problem.
Yup, I think you are right. Time for a new battery. Batteries these days don't last much more than about 4 years. They are fine one minute, then they die the next. If you can afford it, a glass matt battery will last a little longer, but you will have two obstacles. They are expensive, and getting one with the battery posts in the middle can be a problem.
Good luck, and again, keep up posted.
where do you get those batteries? My posts are on top
where do you get those batteries? My posts are on top
so I got a new battery and my gen is charging, still doesn’t sound good kind of rattles. I know I should get a new one but im just curious, when I rev up the engine I’m seeing sparks through the front. Could it be the brushes?
so I got a new battery and my gen is charging, still doesn’t sound good kind of rattles. I know I should get a new one but im just curious, when I rev up the engine I’m seeing sparks through the front. Could it be the brushes?
A couple weeks ago you said the brushes look good. It could be they're worn down, it could also be brushes are cockeyed (off kilter) not seated and not making good contact....maybe?
A couple weeks ago you said the brushes look good. It could be they're worn down, it could also be brushes are cockeyed (off kilter) not seated and not making good contact....maybe?
they did look good mean not worn down. Is there supposed to be some type of grease on the core inside?
they did look good mean not worn down. Is there supposed to be some type of grease on the core inside?
Nah. We went down this road in earlier posts - just the oiler. Don't know if you have one or two oilers - can't recall. Olds & Buick used the same GEN. I have two images - a 1955 Buick GEN and a 1959 Buick GEN I'll post. Not sure how often you've ever worked on generators/devices with a commutator and brushes (I change brushes regularly on various electrical devices). Anyways, I think you should pay careful attention to what Dave suggested (UNDERLINED) in Post #69:
40 to 50 wt oil should be fine for the lube fittings on the generator, the little flip caps. I'll say it again, CHECK the brushes. They will fail and make rattling noises if they are worn and too short. It might work intermittently. You can replace just the brushes at significant savings. The armature of the generator turns inside the generator case. It has a bushing or bearing at the front and rear--hence the oil cap-fittings.
Nah. We went down this road in earlier posts - just the oiler. Don't know if you have one or two oilers - can't recall. Olds & Buick used the same GEN. I have two images - a 1955 Buick GEN and a 1959 Buick GEN I'll post. Not sure how often you've ever worked on generators/devices with a commutator and brushes (I change brushes regularly on various electrical devices). Anyways, I think you should pay careful attention to what Dave suggested (UNDERLINED) in Post #69:
1955 1959
ok I’ll get new brushes I supposed and try that. I did put 40w oil in the caps. Not sure how bad brushes will throw sparks tho but I hear you
You're more or less on your own regarding what brushes fit your GEN since I'm not sure. They made basically two different styles: brushes (the metal ONLY) which sat (clipped) into the brush retainer; brushes w/ the wire and circle terminal end. Again, not sure which you have. Here's a image and URL link which may or may not fit your GEN (again, check the model # on the tag (plate) and if unreadable, see if a number is located elsewhere on the casing. Not surprising, I've even see numbers on the INSIDE of the casing - hope you can read yours.
You're more or less on your own regarding what brushes fit your GEN since I'm not sure. They made basically two different styles: brushes (the metal ONLY) which sat (clipped) into the brush retainer; brushes w/ the wire and circle terminal end. Again, not sure which you have. Here's a image and URL link which may or may not fit your GEN (again, check the model # on the tag (plate) and if unreadable, see if a number is located elsewhere on the casing. Not surprising, I've even see numbers on the INSIDE of the casing - hope you can read yours.
Yeah I think so let me go check. I know it’s a rebuild tho
It's fine (I noticed) it was a rebuild. As long as the Model # plate is actually the Model # of the GEN itself. Anyways, you said you looked at the brushes earlier. You should clearly be able to make out if they are of the metal retainer type or the attached wire (with circle end terminal) type.
See that dark spot above the belt pulley is all the little magnet particles it’s shooting out
Yes, I see it & I can't tell you where it's coming from - it can certainly be from the brushes.
Unfortunately, I don't believe you have a rebuilt original Delco-Remy GEN. Delco-Remy GENs begin w/ 110 or 111. Additionally, that is not a Delco-Remy Model # tag (plate) on your GEN. UNIT or UNITED PARTS CO. (???)
You're kinda/sorta on your own regarding the part number. That company (UNIT PARTS CO.) was apparently purchased by Remy at some point in time. That's all I know of that company. Remove the brushes and look at them. I think your OEM model # was 11102003 - DO NOT take my word for it.
Yes, I see it & I can't tell you where it's coming from - it can certainly be from the brushes.
Unfortunately, I don't believe you have a rebuilt original Delco-Remy GEN. Delco-Remy GENs begin w/ 110 or 111. Additionally, that is not a Delco-Remy Model # tag (plate) on your GEN. UNIT or UNITED PARTS CO. (???)
your right it’s not the original so I’m not sure about it either, I never heard of that brand. The brushes are sitting in the retainers perfectly and the wires coming off them aren’t hooked on anything. I’m starting to think the bearing that the core rides in is bad. The back one was kind of worn into off shape meaning not a perfect circle which I’m guessing it should be
You're kinda/sorta on your own regarding the part number. That company (UNIT PARTS CO.) was apparently purchased by Remy at some point in time. That's all I know of that company. Remove the brushes and look at them. I think your OEM model # was 11102003 - DO NOT take my word for it.
your right it’s not the original so I’m not sure about it either, I never heard of that brand. The brushes are sitting in the retainers perfectly and the wires coming off them aren’t hooked on anything. I’m starting to think the bearing that the core rides in is bad. The back one was kind of worn into off shape meaning not a perfect circle which I’m guessing it should be
It is certainly possible the rear bushing and front bearing are out of round. But, also...keep in mind the brushes need to be held SECURELY against the commutator - they don't just lay in there all flippy floppy - they require force to hold them against the commutator. Therefore, ensure whatever (generally) springs are doing their job. If you have short stubby (worn) brushes w/ worn out spring tensioners, they're just flopping around.
The Oldsmobile Parts Catalog (1975) demonstrates Part No. 1923295 for the original 1955 Oldsmobile OEM GEN brush package.
It takes little work to replace the bushing & bearing. You might consider a newer rebuild kit w/ bushing, bearing, springs & hardware.
It is certainly possible the rear bushing and front bearing are out of round. But, also...keep in mind the brushes need to be held SECURELY against the commutator - they don't just lay in there all flippy floppy - they require force to hold them against the commutator. Therefore, ensure whatever (generally) springs are doing their job. If you have short stubby (worn) brushes w/ worn out spring tensioners, they're just flopping around.
ok thank you for that advice I’ll check it out tomorrow and see what I can do, the hard part is gonna be figuring out a rebuild kit
yeah that looks about right. I mean all those delco remy gens look like the exact shape and size needed for mg beast. I’m guessing it would fit and work fine
I read the #100 post and I saved that link for that thing on eBay and they look right. What are brushes made of? Just magnets rights?
Brushes are generally made from carbon. They are primarily of two types: carbon graphite or lead graphite. Brushes are not magnets. Carbon &/or carbon graphite is not magnetic, lead &/or lead graphite is not magnetic. Carbon &/or carbon graphite, lead &/or lead graphite are excellent conductors of electricity & that is why they are used as the raw material for making brushes.
Brushes are generally made from carbon. They are primarily of two types: carbon graphite or lead graphite. Brushes are not magnets. Carbon &/or carbon graphite is not magnetic, lead &/or lead graphite is not magnetic. Carbon &/or carbon graphite, lead &/or lead graphite are excellent conductors of electricity & that is why they are used as the raw material for making brushes.
ok so they are capable of sparking? Interesting but a little confusing for a new guy. I have a lot to learn
Simply put, you’re converting mechanical energy (GEN belt turns the GEN armature via the GEN pulley) to electrical energy. Electricity in a GEN is produced when the armature rotates inside the stationary FIELD which surrounds the armature. Think of the commutator as the “collector” of electricity. Notice the brushes must contact the collector (commutator) to transfer (conduct) the electricity to perform electrical work. Notice again two key terminals located on the GEN identified as the A (armature) post and the F (field) post. So the commutator collects electricity and the brushes transfer that electricity. NOTE: The commutator spins at the same RPM as the armature. Therefore, those brushes are key to transferring/conducting electricity.
I have to commend you for making an effort to fix the GEN and desire to want to learn. You should probably take the GEN apart at this point and determine if it is salvageable. The rotating armature may be rubbing against the field plates causing the noise & producing the dust. This may be the result of the bushing &/or the bearing OR both producing an off center wobbling rotation of the armature. The kits do come with a new bushing & bearing. This may address the issue if the armature is still in decent shape. Take the GEN apart & post some pictures, note the amount of play in the armature, wear points on the field shoes, and the bearing & bushing condition. Thanks to Stellar who contacted me regarding your issues. I admire your ability to want to learn and get your feet wet. If unsalvageable that eBay GEN is most likely your next best option.
Generators used to be called Dynamos. I used to listen to Frank Zappa. He had a song called Dinah-Moe Hum. I’ll just grab a cookie on my way out…
When Delco went to alternators they called them AC generators and AC dynamo. That is the reason they had a GEN indicator light when there was an alternator in the car.
As far as the generator being salvagable, acording to Frank Zappa, Chances are 50-50.
I would be smiling ear to ear with a 42out and 43 in.
