that whole post makes a lot more sense to me thank you. I will take it apart probably Tuesday because of Christmas and I will take pics for sure and see what the deal. I have not taken off the pulley before and I think I need to. Thank you I appreciate you noticing my effort and desire to learn what makes my beast work. I have moticed if I rev it really high for enough time the gen shuts off and gauge doesn’t move at all so I’m not sure about that

 

The last thing anyone wants to see is for someone to struggle to fix an issue. With deep pockets you can buy a nice newly rebuilt OEM style generator, or buy a brand new single wire alternator with an internal VR. You don't appear to have deep pockets & you appear to want to learn & fix issues along the way - that is commendable.

 

yeah deep pockets I do not have my friend. Plus I wanna keep the car as original as possible or least how I got it which is pretty close. One day I’ll buy the original delco remy it should have but for now I may just have to find a rebuild kit for this knock off

 

Understand. Fingers crossed you can salvage the generator. I'll toss you a bone. Since it is your desire to maintain the car as original as possible, I'm assuming you're not in favor of a new one-wire alternator with internal VR - fair enough (commendable). There is a difference in the basic internal arrangement of the field windings in a generator vs. an alternator; but, let's not even approach this topic since you're sticking w/ a generator.

This gentleman does a fine job with good illustrations depicting how a generator operates.

Here is your bone >>> Generators & Regulators – A Magnetizing Primer

 

thanks boss I read up on that link and understand it a bit more now. But I’m hoping it’s salvageable too. It hasn’t turned on at all since yesterday which is odd, usually just stops for a little while now nothing.

 

Kaput

 

I think he is right as usual. What Stellar says is gospel. Something to keep in mind, generators belts can not be tightened like alternator belts. Too tight puts a torque strain on the rear bronze bushing causing premature failure and will cause the problem you are having by having the armature ground out against the body of the generator, been there done that. Tedd

 

I double posted sorry

 

That could be it for my gen which sucks big time! But I’ll still take it apart tomorrow or next day and post some pics for you guys and get some opinions. I never knew it couldn’t be so tight on the belt which I don’t think it is but it may just be firm id say.

 

is there a way and or a tool that can take out the brass fitting in the back the core rides in?

 

Don't put the cart before the horse. Three part series...enjoy.

 

There were so many of the GENs manufactured, each was different & I honestly don't recall if I ever replaced a bushing (probably did - can't recall). Anyways, you have to remove the end caps 1st to determine if you have two bearings or a bushing & a bearing. You may find two bearings w/ one bearing bad, both bad, did one or both disintegrate & literally blow up into pieces. Blah, blah, blah - evaluate the commutator, the armature, the shunts (field plates), did the armature tear up the field plates, etc., etc. Just get it apart & post some pictures. "If" it's salvageable, rebuilding it isn't really rocket science.

 

If it is an original 55 it will have a bushing in the rear, but who knows after 65 years someone most likely has changed it at some time. If you decide to get a new one, be sure to keep your core if it is re buildable, as they are becoming hard to get..Tedd

 

From the pictures, he has a bushing in the rear. I'm sure there are tools made to pull the bushing, like a blind hole bushing extractor. There are many ways to remove the bushing. I use a homemade extractor that is as old as dirt. He could use a tap or a dremel with a small bit to cut the bushing in half lengthwise. Whatever you do, DO NOT use something that will press against the bottom of the hole to remove it. It will break the end of the housing.

 

As has already been stated, the front bearing receives (more likely) more wear & tear than the back (as Stellar said) bushing. Suspect the front bearing to maybe have exploded, broken, come apart as the result of lateral pressure being applied from the GEN belt onto the pulley armature shaft. Inspect the rear bushing carefully. IMO, a bearing is going to fail far sooner than a bushing. However, with that said, if the GEN has been operating for a long period of time with a blown up front bearing, it's possible the rear bushing is rounded out in the shape of an egg as the result of the front bearing being "out-of-round" - in that case the bushing must be replaced. But, inspect that bushing carefully before you decide to remove it. Waiting for pretty pictures.

 

mine for aure has a bushing in the back and bearing up front but last time I had it apart I saw the 3 screws holding that plate over the bearing and didn’t have screw driver that could reach those so I left it alone. Thanks for that video it’s perfect! I’ll get it all apart tomorrow and post pics even a video if I can. Merry Christmas you guys

 

Merry Christmas to you.

This site can't/doesn't handle videos too well. Any video must be <10MB and most videos are going to well exceed 10MB. Best option is to post your video to YouTube, then post the YouTube (Share) URL link into this thread.

 

Merry Christmas to you.

This site can't/doesn't handle videos too well. Any video must be <10MB and most videos are going to well exceed 10MB. Best option is to post your video to YouTube, then post the YouTube (Share) URL link into this thread.[/QUOTE]

I’ll just do pics then most likely

 

I’ll just do pics then most likely[/QUOTE]

didn’t take the gen apart yet just started up the beast cuz it’s pretty cold here but anyways, the gen finally turned on a few times, this is getting ridiculous but I’m still planning to fix it and the problem

 

Got the gen apart. Here’s some pics

 

Magnetic dust is definitley from armature rubbing against the field shoes. Fields look good. bushing is shot. You can see the armature was rubbing the field shoes. First test is to see if the fields and armature are grounded. I think your fields will be ok, but I have doubts about the armature until they are tested.

 

ok how can I do those tests. And I’m thinking since the bushing is shot, the armature isn’t hitting one side of those fields inside it

 

The primary reason I created these images are for points of discussion. As Stellar stated, the bushing is shot & must be replaced - the primary reason why the armature is rubbing the field shoe - I think the armature was actually rubbing on only one side of the field. The armature was mostly grounded against the field during operation. I think the field shoes themselves are OK, but I have doubts about the armature itself for one primary reason - balance. The "slots" (correct me if I'm incorrect) emanate from the armature windings. The "slots" actually are what carries the current to the commutator (collector). The "slots" on your armature are replete with very numerous cracks and I can see areas where pieces (maybe chunks) of the slot material are gone. To my point>>>the armature is highly balanced and needs to remain balanced. When you're missing that special material contained w/in all the slots, it probably creates a wobbling of the armature so as it does not remain balanced, thereby causing the armature to wobble inside the bushing & the bearing. That's just my take on it. Stellar knows better on this than me. You "might" get away with replacing bearing & bushing for some time to come, but the armature looks rather bad, IMO.

The case does have a crack in it in one location - not certain of any degree of influence on the entire GEN.

Images for talking points.

 

Do me a favor and don't think. Just listen and follow instructions. Armature is not supposed to touch the field shoe. The fields are the windings inside of the case with wire going to the posts. The field shoes are the curved rectangular peice with a large screw. holding the field windings in the case that the armature was rubbing against. Not good for the armature, but the field windings may still be ok. DO NOT take the fields out at this time, as they may still be good. Lets check the fields first. What kind of test equipment do you have?

 

If you don't have any electrical test equipment, we can make some simple tests with a 12 volt battery. Or maybe we can have you can make a simple tester from a 120 volt lightbulb socket.

 

I think Chris has a volt meter. It would be rare to find a meter which measures solely voltage in this day & age, but I could be mistaken.
From Post #44:
Anyways, if he owns a volt meter capable of reading resistance, he should be able to measure continuity & Ohms across the armature.

 

Stellar knows !!!!!!!!!

 

Let's be clear from the start - we are only going to do this because you have stated you don't have the $$ to purchase a newly rebuilt GEN and you want to fix this yourself, if possible. Based historically on your responses, it isn't completely apparent you have the knowledge base to move forward (i.e. you lack the ability/knowledge to use a volt meter). With that said, you are going to need to make every attempt to understand what you're doing & why. If you do not want to proceed you should make that known immediately. This is going to require you to put in the time to understand how a GEN produces electricity. It is imperative you remain focused on the task(s). There are two sets of windings: (1) Armature windings & (2) Field windings. The armature windings rotate inside the external field windings (those things we call the rectangular "shoes"). In both sets of wire windings, you need to determine the integrity of the wire windings by evaluating continuity, resistance & shorts in the circuitry of each. You need to focus on what is being accomplished here - stay on track. You'll need to ramp up your learning and remain focused. It's simple to measure, but you must remain focused. First, you have to determine if the armature windings have integrity then move on to determine if the field windings have integrity.

The ball is in your court. We expect you to put in the required amount of time. We don't get paid for this stuff, we're all member volunteers providing assistance & our time is equally as important as your time - stay focused.

Review these videos. Garner an understanding of what is taking place & the importance of making sound diagnostic evaluations before you consider throwing parts at something which you don't understand. At some point, you may reach a dead-end and may have to stop with any further attempts because the GEN is not salvageable.

You need to be crisp & clear w/ your responses & questions using the correct terminology. Wandering off-base with a random slurry of misdirected thoughts & ideas will not assist in helping you. We may fault ourselves on occasions, no one is perfect; but, I have to really make this clear - it's up to you to put in the time & effort to make this happen. Too much work? Let us know - we'll stop. Don't expect an overnight solution.

Start w/ a series of videos demonstrating the basics of testing an armature. There are several methods in performing these tests and they'll vary - don't get carried away w/ how each person performs a particular test. In the end, these tests determine integrity of the armature wire windings then the field wire windings. Steve Blanchard (nine part series) demonstrates a great overall rebuild. One video demonstrates the method Stellar suggested using a 120V light bulb. The importance here is for you to understand what's going on.

Write down your findings on a piece of paper so we can have a meaningful conversation. Review EACH of these videos. Ask questions if you don't understand something.

General overall method of testing the armature windings. There are many videos - if you don't like these, find another - do some research:



Steve Blanchard (nine part series). Excellent overall review of a basic rebuild. I strongly suggest you view each video in the entire nine part series. We don't expect you to completely rebuild the GEN, but it's imperative you know what's involved. Ball is in your court. Good Luck - ask questions.

Here's the 1st video. Review all nine videos.


The 120V light bulb method of testing:

 

ok I get it guys, I may be a young dumb kid and sometimes I get too determined when maybe it’s a lost cause. I have never been good at understanding what I’m reading. But videos on the other hand is up my alley for learning. I will try to use the correct terminology and so on and be detailed in my responses. Yes whoever said I have a multi meter is correct. It is a cheap one I believe it has 5 different tests on it and like I said I don’t know how to use it other than DC 20 to check the battery. I don’t care how hard this is I’m not quitting until it’s un salvageable. Later today I’ll check out that link on the 9 part video. I thought the armature or commutator was supposed to spin touching both fields.

 

those videos look very helpful I appreciate that, because like I said I’m more of a visual learner

 

Fields don’t touch. Have a quick look at Electro Magnetic (EM) induction just the basics. Remember that North Pole/South Pole stuff regarding magnets. I’m playing golf.

 

Understood, and I will check those out. But if you look closely in my pics from yesterday did you see how one field shoe was shiny like it had been rubbed on and the other was covered with magnet debris? Is that a problem? Because you said the fields shoes shouldn’t be getting touched by anything right?

 

Right. armature and field shoes should not touch.

 

Did you read Post #143? Did you look at the image I blew up & posted of the armature hitting the field shoe?

 

ok I think that’s one of my gen issues which is because of the bushing

 

Your only next point of business is to test the wire windings of the armature w/ your meter. That's all - nothing more, nothing less. Test for continuity & resistance. You need to read the meter instructions or do some research on using the meter. We cannot move forward until you can demonstrate integrity of the armature wire windings by measuring both continuity & resistance (Ohms).

 

Sorry, I'm editing this. I thought you said brushes (my bad that's on me). Yes, your primary issue which has been stated is the fact the rear bushing is "out of round" it's causing the armature to wobble and hit one of the field shoes.

 

Before we suggest to simply replace the rear bushing & the front bearing we need to determine if the armature is worth keeping. To do that, we have to measure the integrity of the armature wire windings - that's why you're going to next measure the continuity & resistance of the armature wire windings.

 

If the armature wire windings fall w/in specifications based on continuity & resistance, you will then measure the continuity & resistance of the field wire windings. If they both pass the test of continuity & resistance, we can move forward. I "think" you "may" get away w/ it, but we can't place any confidence in replacing a bushing & a bearing unless we can first determine the armature windings and the field windings are OK.

 

Ok fair enough I’m going to hopefully get to that tomorrow morning. I agree getting all the basics out of the way before buying any parts