Hi gang,
can anybody assist me with trouble shooting the reason I cant get my 2004R transmission in Lock-up.
So I used to drive this transmission with a bowtie lock up kit for years without problems.

Then I decided to seriously increase my engine performance and therefore beefup the trans.

I had a CK performance street/strip kit installed as well as a valvebody/governor/seperator plate with Buick Grand National specs from Extreme Automatics.
The lockup and TV cable is wired with a Bowler Transmission total fix package. All works great except...no lock up.

Bowler uses a time delay bock on the transmission connector that starts a 8 second timer when the circuit is made. The circuit is made when the 4th gear pressure switch receives pressure (4th gear engaged).

So my first step was to check and replace the solenoid, the 4th gear pressure switch and the timing block.
All found working 100% in the transmission with the oilpan removed.

Then I thought maybe a mismatch in seperator plates, I tried the CK performance plate and the Extreme automatics plate, no help.

Then I thought it must be the (new) torque convertor. (CK performance high stall, brand new) and I ordered a new one from ProTorque and installed it last week.

Again no lock up.

I am a little lost as what to do now.
Is anybody willing to help me trouble shoot this mystery?

Only thing I can think of now is the input shaft is clogged or something in the oilpump.

I really want to try to take out the transmission just one more time and finaly start making miles with it.
All help is very much appreciated,
many thanks from Holland!
Dan

 

Do you still have the old solenoid? If so, drive a 1/4 check ball into the solenoid snout and install it. Refill the trans, start it up and try to it in gear. Hopefully, it kills the engine immediately. If so, then the converter and related hydraulics are good. That leaves electrical as the issue.

Engine still runs? Then carefully inspect the converter lockup vale in the pump

 

Matt that sounds like a good idea. I will do that as soon as I have a day of. Is the clutch engaged at 2nd or 3rd gear?
Is it possible to diagnose the lockup valve in the pump with the trans in the car?
Many thanks,
DAn

 

The 2004R is hydraulically capable of locking the converter in 1st gear. I know this for a fact because the very first 2004r I built I assembled the lockup valvetrain wrong. As soon am I put the shifter in any gear the engine immediately shut off.

The lockup valvetrain is in the pump right above the solenoid.

If the engine doesn’t die and the valvetrain is assembled right before doing anything else get with the converter and transmission builder. The reason I say this is because years ago a friend of mine built a bad *** Grand National that never would lock the converter. We tried all kinds of things, with no luck. I ended buying and using the converter in one of my cars, the converter didn’t lock in my car either. I KNEW it had to be something with that converter since the previous one worked as expected.

By this time, the converter warranty was long expired. I took the converter to Coan for a cut-open and inspection, once the autopsy was completed it was obvious why it wouldn’t lock.

It was built with no lockup plate, no piston, it was basically a non-lockup converter.

 

Ok, so I will execute that test procedure and keep you informed.
I cant Imagine that it is the converter because I now installed and test drove 2 brand new converters from different makers.
Also cant imagine that it is the electrics since I changed everything out and tested all components multiple times..
I keep you posted, many thanks!

 

Matt,
to be sure, the goal of this test is to simulate lockup conditions by plugging the solenoid snout right? So I can drive the checkball in the snout as far as I can get it.
Or do I also need to make sure that the checkball depresses the valve somewhat?
Dan

 

Putting the checkball in the solenoid will duplicate what the solenoid is supposed to do when engaged.

With the solenoid de-energized, fluid will vent thru the solenoid. When it’s powered, the solenoid plunger closes and pressure rises enough to force the lockup valve to stroke.

With the check ball in the solenoid, the engine should start and run normally in park. It should immediately kill the engine when you put it in gear. If not, there is something wrong with the lock up hydraulics. If it kills the engine, then there is something wrong with your solenoid or the way it’s controlled.

 

Roger! Thank you.

 

Hi gang,
So I was a little short on free time but I just finished my testrun with a plugged solenoid.

A short recap: I`m the guy in the Netherlands that cant get his 2004R in Lock up.

So far:
Changed old Valvebody/Governor/separator plate to Extreme automatics combo.
Changed and tested 4th gear pressure switch and solenoid, all verified working.
Changed Lockup Converter for a brand new LU converter, checked for o-ring on inputshaft, all ok.

All no help

Just executed your test: plugged an old solenoid with a checkball and drove the car through all gears, no engine stall or significant differences versus setup with open solenoid.
So I`m a little lost as what to do next.
Any suggestions?