I am confused about the lock up / non-lock up debate .

I was told that by converting my TH350 to a 200R4 that I have to add a separate lock up switch . I understand the use of the switch, but what are the odds that a person remembers to turn it off and on ?

Is there a way that it will do it automatically in my '71 Cutlass ?


Brent

 

Some 200R4s are lock-up and some aren't.

If you have a lock-up unit and you want it to lock, you can either install a switch - and remember to use it - or you can buy an electronic controller box that does the job that the original car's primitive computer would have done, and aplies the lock-up after you reach cruising speed, then unlocks for hard acceleration and deceleration, braking, and shifting.
I think they're about a hundred bucks.

- Eric

 

LOL . Google is your friend. I found a pile of different options from vacuum controlled to electronic.

Any input on style and manufacturer ?

Brent

 

I've never done one of these, so I really don't know anything about it.

I guarantee there are others here with experience in the area, though.

- Eric

 

I found the lock-up to be a total PITA to get to work smoothly, you can easily get it to lock-up but getting it to kick in and out without lugging the engine was another story.
I finally pulled the transmission and had it converted to a non lock-up and it works perfect now, just get in and drive.
Another factor I think plays here is where you live, if you live out on the flat lands or never leave town the lock-up is probably easier to get to work right but if you live in rough or mountainous terrain forget getting it to work properly.
I tried kits from 3 different places I tried using parts from 2 kits together, I even broke down and bought B&M's kit and non of them worked smoothly, the transmission shop that built my transmission even messed with it for over a week and couldn't get it to work.

 

I just hard wired mine and manually lock it when on the highway or above a certain speed.
Around town it stays unlocked. Just have to remember to unlock it when coming to a stop. Not a daily driver so this works for me.

 

Technically, to do it 'right', you need 3 things. The lockup controller, which locks up at a given speed (most are adjustable, I like the B&M).

Then you need a vacuum switch, which unlocks at a given vacuum.

Finally, a delay switch, to delay lockup for a given amount of seconds (most have a range, from 0-10 seconds.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pma-pa11400/overview/

Painless makes a kit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-60109/overview/

(You can get them cheaper if you source them separately)

So, to prevent OD gear 'hunting', and gradual lockups, you need all three.

Lockup controller is self explanatory. It locks at a given speed. Most set it in the 47-52 mph range. This prevents lockup around town and at low speeds.

The delay is helpful in case you momentarily go over the programmed speed, again, prevents 'hunting' (lock-unlock-lock-unlock).

The vacuum switch unlocks when vacuum goes over a certain amount, for example, when you take your foot off the gas pedal.

If you don't use the lockup, trans will create excessive heat. And can burn up your converter. Whole point of the OD is to have proper lockup, it's almost like another gear.

.

 

If you don't use the lockup, trans will create excessive heat. And can burn up your converter. Whole point of the OD is to have proper lockup, it's almost like another gear

This is not so when you have it converted to non-lockup they modify the pump to give full flow all the time.
If you check I believe that the 2004r with lock-up only has full flow to the cooler when the converter is locked, I may have this backwards but I know when you use a lock-up you don't have full flow to the cooler all the time, but after you convert it you do.
I can tell you that after a 6 hr non stop grind going up to a car show through the mountains last summer my external cooler was just warm to the touch.

 

I know there are some specifics regarding lockup in a 200, but honestly, I don't know exactly what those are. I know the 200 I tired had all the hard parts and mods, and no matter what I did it failed time after time (at my power levels). It wasn't until I went to a 4L80E that my trans issues went away, and I couldn't be happier with it (and full-throttle lock ups). So my experience with 200s was poor.

I do know when I had the config with the items below and the 200, the driving experience was like a new car (the way it shifted, etc). All the gear hunting, shifts, lockup, etc were tailored and felt natural. Not having those items makes people ditch the lockup, because they can't stand the way it drives. Done right, the benefits far outweigh the negatives.

When you drove, you were probably above stall, and with a fairly tight converter. That would be my guess as to why the cooler was cool to the touch. Or there was a restriction. I can't imagine generating such low heat under any kind of a load. Even no load just idling in park they gen heat.

I am far from a tranny guy, so grain of salt. I am sure that you are better off taking advantage of lockup though. Also have heard all the lockup/non-lockup debate for years, and once you do it right, it will change your mind if you're a non-lockup guy.

.