When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I’ve got to get a magnet dial indicator to test fly wheel run out - bell housing parallel-ity ? (Making words up I think) and bell housing concentricity - also need to measure for throw out bearing and depth for input shaft tip and splines clearance to the crank shaft and pilot bearing - clutch / pp will be here today - hurst bushing kit tomorrow - throw out bearing Thursday - and the parts place hasn’t bothered to let me know in clutch fork just like they don’t know on freight - kinda hate that place ... I asked about the clutch fork pivot ball but didn’t hear anything so just going to run it. Hopefully I can get measurements done before Friday - if not the project will have to hold for two weeks - but made a lot of progress - thanks for listening! Well. Got my pilot bushing today. Sticks solid to a magnet so not quite the quality I was hoping for - guess we will see
https://youtu.be/NzfjbAqeTR4 made a YouTube video showing play in input shaft - how do I accurately measure it and how much is too much?
I read online that munchies do wiggle - so running it as is - as far as the cracks in bell housing - they don’t go through and don’t look severe to me so running it as is - figure worst case it has the crossmember so not like it’s going to bounce down the road if it fails *shrug*
Last edited by 72442455; June 9th, 2020 at 07:46 AM.
Too much play IMO, remove the front cover, and check the bearing, I’ll bet it needs replacement, the crank bushing doesn’t support the input shaft.
thanks DC - I think she’s going to have to ride it out until the next clutch replacement unfortunately - I don’t have time or $ at the moment for this - perfect storm of life things I have to pay for - I do plan on pulling the motor and drilling the crank and rebuilding the Muncie with an uncircumcised input shaft down the road. But I need this to be mobile asap - it’s spent three summers with big projects going on and sitting in pieces - going to carefully measure. Put it back together and pray for the best - appreciate your help. I did watch some Muncie rebuild videos and it looks doable - but I need to study a lot more first
When you pull the flywheel, you’ll have a view of the area around the rear main seal, if you see a leak, you have 2 choices, ignore it, or pull the motor, I tried to replace the seal in my car..never again. Check torque on the pan bolts, that could be the source of the front leak.
oh! And also - I do have a minor rear main seal leak - I guess I didn’t understand exactly how it all went together there - it won’t effect my clutch like I thought it would. So I’m ignoring it - so far after 15 minutes idling I get about a 25c coin size drop - that’s not worth it to me to pull the motor at this time - my clutch was simply toast
Good luck TRYING to drill the crank,
That material is as hard as a diamond.
Ask me how I know.......
when I do do it - i will take either the crank or whole motor in to have it machined - don’t need to now as input shaft is already circumcised - I might have to do some modifying to the pilot bushing - will see once I’m done measuring
found some new #s on the trans case and a tag attached to it - any ideas?
The first pic is your VIN derivative.
3=Olds
2=1972
M=Lansing
130855=last six of VIN
The TAG in the second pic is the OLDS Part Number for that particular model of trans. A trans with the same physical characteristics and casting numbers could go in a Chebby, but it would have a different Part Number on it's tag.
You should also find a stamped number starting with a capital "P." That will be the date of manufacture code. It should have a trailing A, B, or C, denoting M20, M21, or M22. The date code will be stamped into an edge/rim similar to the VIN derivative, and usually on the opposite side from the VIN derivative.
You've done great and learned a lot getting to this point!! Great job!!! Be proud!
The first pic is your VIN derivative.
3=Olds
2=1972
M=Lansing
130855=last six of VIN
The TAG in the second pic is the OLDS Part Number for that particular model of trans. A trans with the same physical characteristics and casting numbers could go in a Chebby, but it would have a different Part Number on it's tag.
You should also find a stamped number starting with a capital "P." That will be the date of manufacture code. It should have a trailing A, B, or C, denoting M20, M21, or M22. The date code will be stamped into an edge/rim similar to the VIN derivative, and usually on the opposite side from the VIN derivative.
You've done great and learned a lot getting to this point!! Great job!!! Be proud!
thanks tons! I’ll find the date stamp when I’m back at it
clutch fork came in from parts place and centerforce throw out bearing - clutch and pressure plate should be tomorrow - hopefully early - might get all my measurements done tomorrow - then Hopefully reassemble
I like the “transmission to engine bolts” for the 4 speed manual transmission - I had mine all wrong - I had a bell housing between the transmission and engine ... hehe - I think I got it figured out - thank you!
You getting close...check the fork profile against the fork you removed, the repros’ are sketchy at best.
couple of questions - centerforce didn’t come with new pressure plate bolts - ok to use old ones? And also old bolts thread in a bit tough - I don’t want to cross thread anything - are they suppose to be tough or should I go pick up new bolts?
Last edited by 72442455; June 11th, 2020 at 06:30 PM.
It's fine to reuse PP bolts. They shouldn't be any tighter than any other bolt. You might try chasing the threads in the flywheel with a tap first.
thanks Randy - that’s exactly what I’m going to do - maybe resurfacing it caused crap to get down there or something - I took the pressure plate off and tried just rolling the bolts in there alone and they felt tight / weird - don’t want to strip anything 😩
You’ll need a tool to stop the flywheel from turning, start with maybe 35#, then 70#, then 90#.
just my 2c
I have one - got a lot done today but have to walk away from it for maybe two weeks - heading out of town - when I get back to it - transmission time - getting close - have to figure out which way that hump on the throw out bearing goes - but sounds like I’ll have time to read ....
Fine tuned everything on the cutty today - car is doing great! At 75 mph I’m at 3,000 rpms (3:23 rear end) oil pressure between 40 and 60 - runs cool at about 190 - after about 30 minutes of cruising no visible leaks - will continue to monitor it as I go but I think I have got it mechanically sound for daily driving! Now to make it pretty ....
Just a follow up - centerforce dual friction clutch on my 72 w/ 455 - I’ve ran it 1,500 miles so far city and highway and it’s great! Couldn’t be happier - thanks again all for your help!
June 9th, 2020, 07:41 AM
