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I know this has been covered - but I’ve been reading until my eyes bled - I have a 72 cutlass convertible with a 68 455 toro and an original Muncie 4 speed - 3:23 rear - before I found this site I was in a pinch to make the big block auto crank work with the original Muncie - so yeah... I cut 1/4 off the input and used a press in bearing - what’s done is done - had I to do it over.... anyways I am trying to make a daily driver out of it an the current clutch is toast - I have to pull it and see what’s up - I put the cheapest 10.5 clutch in it 19 years ago to get it home when it had a 350 - I’m thinking I burnt it up but not ruling out possible leaks contaminating the disc / flywheel (will cross that bridge when I pull it) BUT ... best I can tell is I want an organic clutch for street and easy pedal - I’m not gonna race it - but that doesn’t mean I won’t play a little - I seen a lot of people say centerforce - but online lots of people trashed them sayin they were chinesium junk - I kinda looked at McLeod and they got bad reviews and Hays and RAM - it seems either they are getting bashed or no comment - so I think I need an organic clutch at 11 inches for the 455 with 26spline 1 1/8 - any comments or recommendations? Thanks all
Well, first, only people who are unhappy take the time to comment. Second, these are 12 comments from a decade ago (check the dates on the posts). I've used CF clutches in my 72 442 (admittedly quite a while ago) with a 350 and my 70 W-30. No problems.
Well, first, only people who are unhappy take the time to comment. Second, these are 12 comments from a decade ago (check the dates on the posts). I've used CF clutches in my 72 442 (admittedly quite a while ago) with a 350 and my 70 W-30. No problems.
I'm probably the only one here that runs a Center Force I. I actually called Center Force and asked what they would recommend. I told them it was going in a street driven 68 442 with an M20, stockish 455 (around 350 HP), and 3:42 gears. They told me the Center Force II was overkill and I'd be happy with the Center Force I....and I am
I installed a LUK in the 327/375 Vette last year. Excellent quality great pedal feel grabs nice on the resurfaced flywheel.
Most NCRS members recommend them for big & small blocks and have been doing so for many years with no complaining and these guys are a picky bunch.
Put about 600 miles on it so far without any troubles. Installation was a breeze as it comes as a kit with TO bearing and alignment tool. Don't remember if the pilot was in the kit think I bought that separately.
Centerforce, Ram, no thanks , I have always used Mcleod and Weber clutches, both in CA ,and never had a problem. the Weber clutch in my 68 w\455 is still going strong after over 12,000 miles with many burnouts and hard driving.
I have a RAM Powergrip HD in the 'cuda with a 440. It's been a great clutch. You could step the disc down a bit to an organic if you want something a bit softer, but the material hasn't been bad to drive at all and has absorbed some pretty heavy abuse.
Centerforce has several different clutches and they are not all created equal. While I learn more towards racing in the Pure Stock drags with the repro polyglas tires, everyone said centerforce dual friction. They also said the centerforce dfx was junk. I put in a CF DF and immediately started beating on it and haven't looked back. That was oh 9 or 10 years ago I think and still going strong. I drive it on the street on occasion too, zero issues. The strict diet of VP C12 limits my street driving however.
CenterForce II all the way.
Great grip and nice pedal effort.
I used their throwout bearing, pressure plate and disc.
Very happy.
wasn’t able to order centerforce 2 - nothing said it was compatible - centerforce web site shows zero matches for centerforce 2 - summit doesn’t acknowledge Oldsmobile in fitment (even though it says olds in some of the descriptions - Amazon is a joke for fitment (apparently diameter and spline count isn’t really a necessary criteria) I ended up going with centerforce dual friction - thanks for the input!
...lots of people trashed them sayin they were chinesium junk...
That's an older pandemic than the one presently going around. First of all, if you get rid of the pedal friction, there would be more power left over for a grippier clutch. A way to avoid substandard imported junk would be to take an eleven inch core to a clutch rebuilder of repute. I had that done in the Detroit area, way back when, and I never had trouble afterwards with it
That's an older pandemic than the one presently going around. First of all, if you get rid of the pedal friction, there would be more power left over for a grippier clutch. A way to avoid substandard imported junk would be to take an eleven inch core to a clutch rebuilder of repute. I had that done in the Detroit area, way back when, and I never had trouble afterwards with it
...think next time around I might try hydraulic throw out bearing
Hydraulic clutches have a pleasant feel to them and the reduction of application friction is noticable.
I forget to mention paying attention to the pressure plate. Once they're overheated through abuse, the amount of pressure needed to release the clutch increases, putting unneeded pressure and wear on not only a pedal mechanism. But, also on both disengagement bearing, as well as on the crankshaft's thrust bearing
Hydraulic clutches have a pleasant feel to them and the reduction of application friction is noticable.
I forget to mention paying attention to the pressure plate. Once they're overheated through abuse, the amount of pressure needed to release the clutch increases, putting unneeded pressure and wear on not only a pedal mechanism. But, also on both disengagement bearing, as well as on the crankshaft's thrust bearing
thanks for the info! Mine will see light action - mostly a cruiser - though I might get up to speed faster then normal a time or two for fun 😜
welp - that’s what I got coming - hope it all works out swimmingly - I’m doing my very best - thanks for sharing
We have used the Dual Friction CenterForce units on several street muscle cars, including Olds. We like them. The pedal pressure is light, similar to the feel of factory hydraulic clutches in modern muscle cars. Other brands that we have used, like Zoom, exhibit heavy pedal pressure. The older you get, the more light pedal pressure becomes important to you.
If you have not already done so, now is the time to refurbish the Z bar, clutch pedal and push rods. The holes, pegs, seals and bushings wear.
Also, for some modern diaphragm clutch installations in older muscle cars, you need a longer adjuster (screw) rod or a Lakewood adjustable pivot ball.
We have used the Dual Friction CenterForce units on several street muscle cars, including Olds. We like them. The pedal pressure is light, similar to the feel of factory hydraulic clutches in modern muscle cars. Other brands that we have used, like Zoom, exhibit heavy pedal pressure. The older you get, the more light pedal pressure becomes important to you.
If you have not already done so, now is the time to refurbish the Z bar, clutch pedal and push rods. The holes, pegs, seals and bushings wear.
Also, for some modern diaphragm clutch installations in older muscle cars, you need a longer adjuster (screw) rod or a Lakewood adjustable pivot ball.
It has been about 10 -15 years. At the time there was a shortage of Centerforce units which is why we used a Zoom brand unit. I remember it was painted a bright color like purple but I do not recall the model.
We have used the Dual Friction CenterForce units on several street muscle cars, including Olds. We like them. The pedal pressure is light, similar to the feel of factory hydraulic clutches in modern muscle cars. Other brands that we have used, like Zoom, exhibit heavy pedal pressure. The older you get, the more light pedal pressure becomes important to you.
If you have not already done so, now is the time to refurbish the Z bar, clutch pedal and push rods. The holes, pegs, seals and bushings wear.
Also, for some modern diaphragm clutch installations in older muscle cars, you need a longer adjuster (screw) rod or a Lakewood adjustable pivot ball.
I am intrigued by the longer adjuster “screw” mine is stock and is adjusted all the way out and the pedal is a tad low (not unusable - but would be nice to have more room for adjustment) would a longer “screw” allow me to adjust my pedal up higher?
On the 67 I had maybe at best 1.0" of play and the pedals were at the same height in the resting position. Car had a Ram clutch-pressure plate set up, organic disc. The new owner didn't like the set up only because the downward force needed to push the clutch pedal down between the gears was to much on his knee. I forgot the particular part number but it was more for track use plus it could handle the power/torque of that 455. But it was a great set up never ever had an issue, loved it
You may also want to consider indexing your bellhousing. I've never done it myself but I'm dying to try it. I'm sure the factory stuff is close but it's one more thing to consider.
You may also want to consider indexing your bellhousing. I've never done it myself but I'm dying to try it. I'm sure the factory stuff is close but it's one more thing to consider. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vO9f4FhK13U
I researched this and the runout on the flywheel and the parallel(ness?) of the bell housing as well - I took a leap of faith regarding the parallel(ness) of bell housing and alignment of bell housing since it’s all stock (Not that that makes them fool proof or anything) and just had flywheel resurfaced - I’ve put 324 miles on her and she’s doing fantastic! Clutch engagement and brakes work perfectly (though I’d prefer a higher pedal height on both - I’ll address that at a later date) Thanks for the info!
Just an update - I went with the centerforce dual friction (DF) clutch kit - works great! I’ve ran it about 1,500 miles so far city and highway - couldn’t be happier with it.
From my experience I would go Center Force very smooth and lite .Always used them great product.
