1966 delta 88 control arm
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The parts book lists the lower control arms as the same from 1965 thru 1970 All except F-85 and Toronado.
The factory part numbers are 402080 (RH) and 402081 (LH)
Thru 1975 - Oldsmobile Chassis and Body Parts Catalog - ClassicOldsmobile.com
The parts book lists the lower control arms as the same from 1965 thru 1970 All except F-85 and Toronado.
The factory part numbers are 402080 (RH) and 402081 (LH)
Thru 1975 - Oldsmobile Chassis and Body Parts Catalog - ClassicOldsmobile.com
Last edited by Charlie Jones; Jun 24, 2024 at 05:47 PM.
You won't find a new one. Good used from another 1965-70 Olds full size is your only option. No, Caprice/Impala parts do not fit. Be aware that the upper ball joints for the 1965-70 full size cars are also very difficult to find new. They are RH/LH.
Here are some specialty salvage yards you can check.
https://www.dvap.com/
http://www.ctcautoranch.com/
You also might check here for ball joints and control arm bushings.
https://www.kanter.com/
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/
https://www.dvap.com/
http://www.ctcautoranch.com/
You also might check here for ball joints and control arm bushings.
https://www.kanter.com/
https://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/
To help expand your search.
The parts book lists the lower control arms as the same from 1965 thru 1970 All except F-85 and Toronado.
The factory part numbers are 402080 (RH) and 402081 (LH)
Thru 1975 - Oldsmobile Chassis and Body Parts Catalog - ClassicOldsmobile.com
The parts book lists the lower control arms as the same from 1965 thru 1970 All except F-85 and Toronado.
The factory part numbers are 402080 (RH) and 402081 (LH)
Thru 1975 - Oldsmobile Chassis and Body Parts Catalog - ClassicOldsmobile.com
Sorry to hear this news.
You’ll find a control arm at some point, but a good safety step is to have it checked for cracks under a UV light after magnaflux dip/treatment. Others here know more about safety checking than me. Point is since you’re dealing with used parts, do your best to confirm they are sound & safe. It’s also a good thing to note the nominal mileage of the donor car.
I recently learned that ball joints for these arms were made in standard and oversized diameters. I’ve had 2 lower A-arms break in 40 years with 2 similar cars and I wonder if the oversized ball joints contributed to the failure.
If it were me cleaning up this mess, I’d replace all lower bushings and ball joints presuming I could find the parts. Good time to evaluate all your steering gear while you’re in the front end if it’s loose/worn.
One more classic junkyard to check would be Turner’s Auto Salvage in Fresno, CA. You might also check in with GM Sport/Salvage in Stockton CA. GM S/S focuses on Camaros and A bodies, but they used to have a smattering of big car parts too.
Good luck.
Chris
You’ll find a control arm at some point, but a good safety step is to have it checked for cracks under a UV light after magnaflux dip/treatment. Others here know more about safety checking than me. Point is since you’re dealing with used parts, do your best to confirm they are sound & safe. It’s also a good thing to note the nominal mileage of the donor car.
I recently learned that ball joints for these arms were made in standard and oversized diameters. I’ve had 2 lower A-arms break in 40 years with 2 similar cars and I wonder if the oversized ball joints contributed to the failure.
If it were me cleaning up this mess, I’d replace all lower bushings and ball joints presuming I could find the parts. Good time to evaluate all your steering gear while you’re in the front end if it’s loose/worn.
One more classic junkyard to check would be Turner’s Auto Salvage in Fresno, CA. You might also check in with GM Sport/Salvage in Stockton CA. GM S/S focuses on Camaros and A bodies, but they used to have a smattering of big car parts too.
Good luck.
Chris
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