yankees

Does anyone have a Moog or any other part # from rock auto or napa etc...for 442 rear coil springs for a 1972 Cutlass?


I need new ones ASAP as the driver's rear has collapsed.

Allan R

ummm, I hope you mean the cars rear spring has collapsed Rob, Joe, Ken and I were just talking about this in my build for the front/rear suspension.

Here is a link to Rob's thread with the spring number you are looking for #11 permalink

yankees

Allan, I see 5 numbers for the rears listed, but I don't have a convertible (Moog 5413). Is that the same # as the 442 springs that I'm looking for?



Thanks

Allan R

The regular Moog rear replacements have the same rate as the FE2 springs. The HD are stiffer like for SMT cars. I believe that is 6321 in Rob's spreadsheet. 5385 has a very high spring rate, which may make your car jittery on the rear - see Robs comments about the 5413s.

Lady72nRob71

For a close-to-stock FE2 spring for coupe w/auto tranny, the 6321 should be it.
If you have a SMT (syncromesh tranny), then the 5385 should be it.

Allan, thanks for filling in during my absence........

yankees

5413's may work out fine. anyone know the part # for the isolators? Do I need 2 for the top of the springs also?

Lady72nRob71

Here is the parts list I added to my rear suspension thread - bottom item.


Get one box - it has two isolators. They are used ONLY on the tops of the rear springs.

Allan R

I'm finding that out with lots of stuff I ordered - there's 2 of a LOT of parts in each box. Bad, because it cost me $$$. Good now because I get $$$ back. My 1000.00 order just went down from 550.00 (wholesale) to around 480.00

BTW when I checked the rear springs in my car yesterday I looked at the isolators. They were .....uhhhh....they were....MISSING Man I was pissed. And, they were installed by a spring and suspension specialty ??? shop.

Now I HAVE to take out the springs and do the shocks and clean the brake backing plates and redo the holddown springs and check the rear drum and replace the brake hose and..... darnit to heck~!...I was just starting to getting to the stage of assembly.

BTW Rob, check for a PM from me.

Lady72nRob71

Just save 'em for the next project....

No way, dude - the ball game has just started!
I made the mistake to think that too. It went on 3 more months...

Allan R

You win the coveted 'Blue Bird of never ending builds award"! 3 more months? I've only been on this now for about 1...Don't forget up here in 3 more months it will be -35° and the only car activity we do well up here during the winter is smackups and ice racing!

I feel a Texas vacation coming on. Break out the roast rattlesnake and beer (hear it tastes like chicken. Funny just about everyone says 'it tastes like chicken' when you don't know what it is). Your neighbor with the large chest can come over and table dance for us!

507OLDS

You also need to install the rear springs in a certain position or direction.If you have the style of spring that has coils closer together at one end,like the heavy-duty style,that end faces up.Then you need to position them so that the lower pigtail end points to the left,on both sides.The position of the lower pigtail is the same for all of the styles of springs.The isolators only go on the tops.

droldsmorland

All,
Here is some info I got from Mark Corey a while back. I didnt publish his phone number because I didnt ask his permission to publish this. But If you email him at the Olds club info below he apparently has some knowledge on springs as reflected below. I also know Eaton has all the factory specs on OEM springs as well and can make you what ever you want. Most of the time the Moog stuff is jobber will-fits that can cover a wide range of applications. I like to have the exact engineered rate spring for that correct factory designed ride & ride height.

Quote...
"The rear spring set that raise the rear of the car 1.5" and be stiffer and handle well is a MOOG# 5415. This set is about 11% stiffer that the stock HD springs when the car was new. I did install these about 2yrs ago on a friend's 1967 Cutlass Supreme convertible and the results were great. The other benefit is that he added 15" wheels and the extra clearance was about right. The engeneering specs are:

• Wire Diameter .61"
• Installed Ht. 9.0"
• Free Ht. 14.62"
• Load Rate 169# (stk HD for A-body was 140# )
• Load Capacity 849# each spring.

While cargo coil- variable rate springs have more load capacity, they will very dissappointing. If we throw sandbags or maybe a small tailer into or onto the rear of friend's 1967 Cutlass, the rear ride ht. is almost as high as stock HD unloaded trunk or rear bumper.

If you need help w/ a matching set of front springs, let me know. The OD is what is different between the various years body styles.

All the Best,
Mark Corey
H.O.A. C Olds Club of KCMO
913-xxx-xxxx"

End Quote.

yankees

Here's what I have: 1972 Cutlass S Sport Coupe (Post Car) with a 350 SBO and a PG trans. I plan on running a 295/65/15 rear tire on a 15x10 wheel and 15x4 front wheels with 27-28 inch fronts.

OK I see MOOG Rear Spring #'s 5413, 5385 and 6321's, so which rear springs would one chose for bracket racing with a good rear ride height/stance? I guess if I can't figure this out soon that I'll just go with the Moroso's in the rear and 240 LB Moroso fronts so it's very loose.



Does anyone have the MOOG Part # for 68-72 A-body 6 cylinder front springs?