Lady72nRob71

So now the resto work moves to the chassis. Lady’s rear needed some improvements and updates.
Despite a smooth ride on the highway, the feel was a little mushy and she tended to sway a lot around corners. She will get new lower control arms & bushings, springs, sway bar, and shocks.
Axle oil will be changed and the rubber vent lines and fuel lines will be replaced as well, while I am rootin’ around up there…

So first, the butt-ugly circus-colored Bilstein shocks were painted GM shock grey.

This was easy and saved me 40 bucks each from having to buy their black “classic car” series. I contacted them to see if this would void the warranty and they said it would not.

Then the sway bar was hung from the gallows and painted with POR15.

I wanted to make sure it was dead, too……..

Next, the ancient rubber fuel lines are replaced... – cracked as can be, leaking fumes all over. Also note the AC inline fuel pump that a previous owner tiewrapped up there…

When I got the car, the positive wire to the pump was connected right to the battery. I guess it did not work much, as the ground wire was connected to its bracket, which was tiewrapped to the metal fuel lines. I guess it might have been grounded through the metal fuel lines only when it was crunched by the diff, which you can see has happened.

What an ignorant kludge job – a disaster waiting to happen. Leaky vapor lines against a sparking fuel pump bracket…
Note the hoses in this picture without clamp marks are factory GM hoses.

All the hoses down there were replaced with new 3/8” and 5/16” fuel line. Some of the lower hoses which had been replaced at some time were replaced with the right diameter new hose. The main fuel line was 5/16” when it was supposed to be 3/8”!
Note to self – crimp tank draw hose when cutting it to prevent fuel from being siphoned from the tank. After I drained a coffee can full, I realized that…

Next the existing air shocks were disconnected at the bottoms.
I jacked up the car one side at a time until I could remove the existing spring. Easy!
But BEFORE REMOVING THE SPRING, make note at where the bottom coil end is located! Mark with a pencil or marker on the axle flange.


Weight of wheel makes the axle drop easier.......

Lady72nRob71

The new Moog heavy duty springs (5413) were installed, with the end of the bottom coil placed correctly like the old ones. New insulators were used at the tops. My right insulator was torn apart…


Cleaning the crud from the diff took the rest of the evening.

Nothing like laying in the dried grease / Georgia red clay crap, degreasing one section at a time, and rinsing with a spray bottle of water. It started raining so I quickly finished and called it quits.
I later had to degrease myself….


The next day was more productive. I finished the cleaning (good enough) and exposed just enough factory black paint to rule out repainting the diff.

The old air shocks were removed next. The upper bolts were a pain because nuts were used also! One was stripped and took longer to replace.
The air lines were removed also.

Next came the fun part of replacing the lower control arms. These were obtained from the Muscle Factory, as well as the sway bar mounting hardware.
The car was on ramps and as I was tapping out the axle-side bolt, the rear was wanting to twist hard. So instead of fighting it, I used the car’s own power to twist it back the other way. A couple chunks of wood were placed on the ramps and I drove up on them slightly. This cocked the rear just right and the crooked bolt straightened and it pulled right out with my fingers!
The front frame bolt was pulled and the arm removed.
Here are the new and old arms… NOTE the left ends in the picture are towards the rear of the car. Flat bushing flanges are to the right on both arms.


............

Lady72nRob71

Here I noticed that the frame side bolts are different – they have a rounded head (like built on washer) unlike the axle side. Notice the difference on these 3 bolts:


I ended up reusing the frame side bolts as they were in good shape and I used a new grade 8 bolt set at the axle side. I have been amazed at the lack of rust down here. Just the red clay crap that make her look like a rust bucket… That crap is hard to get off, too!
I replaced the other control arm just as easy. All bolts were finger tight but were torqued once both arms were installed and the car recentered on the ramps.

The new shocks were remounted next. The top end put in position, the bottom compressed enough to get the bolt in the hole and the nut on for a few turns. A long screwdriver and 18” of ratchet extensions topped with a ½” socket got the upper bolts in. The natural twist of the shocks held the bolts as I fought the nuts on the ends. This went well and I replaced the stripped set.
Torquing them sucked, as I had to use one hand to hold the nut with the wrench, the other hand to turn the torque wrench, and my leg to hold it all up there. Not fun but it worked.


The bottom shock nuts were tightened and torqued and then the sway bar was installed. Just hold it up there, and insert the 4 bolts. Add shims, side by side until no more will fit. I had to cut one in half, as the two far bolt holes needed more.


Everything was torqued that had not been and here is what I ended up with.

She now sits about 1.5” higher and she is now level.
She once had a slight list to starboard…

Note that the lower control arms should be identical. That means the bushing flanges will always be to the right. There was not a left or right lower control arm.



When I was done I went to get her inspected. I feel the rear is now a bit too tight, but 10 miles of city driving won’t tell much. This weekend I will go for a longer drive.

Need to get the diff oil changed and the cover repainted before then.

Next time I pull the tires, I will repaint the brake backing plates, as they look nasty.

Ddbord

Nice Job!

Dirty as hell......

I removed a wiper hose to take a pix of cowl tag, and it fell apart! I'd better check my fuel lines!

--Don

Ddbord

I noticed that you're using the always FREE Craftsman hand tools!

-Don

71supreme

Nice work and great info Rob, thank you!

I will be working on the rear fuel lines later this summer. It's good to know ahead of time what I am in for.

Eddie Hansen

As I said before Rob Seek Help !!!! I suspected something was up when I saw the sound insulation but now I know your twisted LOL....


great job as always, but a question, were all sway bars black? I thought they were cast grey? (serious question) karappp!! I just redid mine, and just thought it was the same as the front? Karappppppppp

when you do the backing plates that is nasty, be sure to wear a mask, I used the crc brake cleaner and it was great by the way!!

I liked your shock solution, when you say the rear felt tight you mean too stiff?

I need to replace my springs in the back, wanted to get a little lift as well but want to avoid that air shock feel..

RAMBOW

Lookin good.

Doing work under the car is hard, because as soon as you finish cleaning and painting one peice- it makes teh rest look terrible! I'm havving that "OCD" issue with mine now that my arms have nice new paint on them...

sigh

Eddie Hansen

how the body ended up off my frame, it is an ugly Spiral Rob.... constant escalation, sort of like the nuclear stand off we had with the soviets it starts off a little incident here, a coup there and finally M.A.D.


Maintenance, Accessories and Dismantling

or mutally assured drinkin!!

Jamesbo

As ususal Very nice work and very informative thread. thanks Rob,

How about buy'in the lady and new W-27 Bustle.

Ya gotta love a woman "with junk in her trunk."

Lady72nRob71

Do check and replace as needed! Yes, it is still dirty as crap under there... Not sure what will happen next to it.

I figured you would have known that when i mentioned how NICE the contact cement smelled when i was redoing my door panels...

Not sure about all of them. The assy manual said the rear suspension and diff be painted with semi gloss black. I assume the bar is part of it all.
My used bar had much of the factory paint on it before I stripped it and repainted it.

I typically remove all brake dust with a water hose some soapy water. I blow dry with the leaf blower and clean the drums and shoes with brake parts cleaner. I hate brake dust!

Too firm it feels. I feel the back is a little jittery like riding in a new pickup. Springs may be too firm. I just learned that the spring rate of the STD rear Moog springs for my car (122lbs) are the same as the W29 spring rate! The HD Moog spring rate is excessive (167lbs), surpassing the factory HD rate with manual tranny (160lbs)!
I might order the Moog Std set if I think they are too firm.

Here are the spring choices i had:

I chose the 5313's. The spring rate is a little higher than the ones Olds used for manual trans cars. That high rate might have been used to lessen wheel hop.

Thanks... Yes, not having a lift or rotisserie sux. I came close to wanting to drop the diff. Then I thought about all the cleaning I would be then doing under there......
I decided to leave it alone.
That red clay really makes the underside look rusty and nasty.

Oh - here is the parts list of stuff I got...

OLD SKL 69

Nice work Rob. I did all that on my 69. My wife always liked it when I came to the dinner table with bits of black crud on my face! BTW, what paint brand and exact color name is the shock paint?

Lady72nRob71

Thanks!

At least she does not make you wash up before eating. I remember my mom making me do that after a whole day in the garage...

There is a resto paint that is sold as "GM shock grey" (has a picture of a spiral shock ont he front ) and i bought a can from a place locally.
When I got home, the cap color was identical to that of 20 year old can of Rustoleum "charcoal grey". Needless to say i returned the shock paint and saved 8 bucks.


I carefully peeled the labels and saved for warranty purposes. Then I scuff sanded the shocks with 220 paper, washed, and dried. I then masked off the rubber bushings and the rod.
I stuffed paper towels up in the rear ones.

Then I wiped them down with paint thinner and alcohol, hung them from a wire and sprayed a quick, light coat of Rustoleum primer. About 30 min later I did the top color.

UPDATE - After almost 1000 miles in all weather, they still look good. Of course I do not inspect for little chips, but it is not peeling.
Hope this helps!

we jeep inn

Great work Rob. Luckily most of the supension work was done right before I aquired my project. But, I know me and I probably won't be able to leave well enough alone...

Eddie Hansen

I just got the w-27 cover from the parts pace, and i have to say for the price it was pretty nice, it was like 89 bucks from them, I have seen it higher from others but they may include the bolts and gaskets.

Lady72nRob71

Well my lead on a preowned new W27 cover went dead, as it was a 12 bolt...
However, i have decided against it entirely, as that option was not supposed to be available in '72. It was said to be discontinued in 71.

I wish all the junk would go in the trunk... I have car parts scattered throughout the house. Glad the suspension parts are out of the kitchen now and the door panels out of the living room. I still have cruise parts in the back bedroom and all throughout the garage.


The nature of the old car hobby is not to leave well enough alone...

Eddie Hansen

Rob, you should be putting all the parts in the dishwasher, then set it to pots and pans... and add extra detergent ....,

OLD SKL 69

Actually she gets mad at me about that. Usually she tells me that dinner's almost ready and I just keep working and working until she just gives me that look! By then, I either wash up and I'm really late to the table and she's even more mad at me or I just come to the table as is. Oh well, I just don't know when to quit!

Thanks for the shock color tip, going to try to get a can tomorrow.

Bluevista

Very nice Rob, just the way I would of done it.
I used Rustoleum grey too. Now you need to get the black paint out and paint spiral stripes on the shock tubes Rob. I still think that if you airbrushed them on with some shading that at a glance a show judge wouldn't even notice.

I need a rear sway bar now.
That will probably be part of phase never if I tell my wife I want to spend anymore money.

Lady72nRob71

It worked 'ok' on the armrests, chrome parts, seat belts and rear windlace a couple years back, but the next year they got a good hand scrubbing or were replaced.
My car was once owned by a heavy smoker...

How about painting them on with black model paint? Thats a good idea! (When I run out of things to do that is...) I still need to clean the underbody more - yeck... I need a lift!

redoldsman

I love the title of this thread "Lady's Rear Enhancements". Taken by itself, that sounds pretty funny. As always is the case with you, great work and a great thread.

Lady72nRob71

Kinda like "Lady gets a Front end job!"
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-end-job.html

My442

I suggest using fuel injection hose at all the short connection points.

It has a lining that is resistant to the ethanol in today's gas, and will last much longer.

A small leak can destroy your car.

Tony72Cutlass'S'

Rob,

Awesome Thread,

SO i'm working on my rear suspension now too. I've got the shocks out (see Angle grinder ) and am thinking of replacing the suspension bushings...

SO if i put the car up on ramps, do i need to support the car in any way when i remove the control arms?? The CSM says to remove control arms one at a time...

I just dont want 3800 lbs of a cutlass falling on my face..

Lady72nRob71

After getting up on ramps, make sure the car will not roll with brakes off and car in nuetral. As long as it won't, all shall be good. NOW put in part and set them park brake.
I did just one at a time - THAT is what will keep the car on its springs.
Just for safety sake, but brinks in fron of the front wheels and maybe set up some jack stands under the frame (but not supporting it).

Vistabrat72

Rob, what a wonderful and informative post, again, I wish I'd found and joined this forum a long time ago, all the answers, and even part numbers (I did go with the Moog 5450's up front on the wagon and Air-Lift air bags in new coils on the rear, after collecting bits and pieces of parts and info, what a scary nightmare!) to assist in the task. Your attention to detail, and simply accepting the MAW's ensures the finished results are very much enjoyed!