Pulling the motor
#962
The projector was purchased broken off eBay, wasn't hard to fix. The surround amp came from a yard sale, it was her ex husband's, cost a whole $5. The ceiling I made by hand with the art deco accents cast from plastic resin. I built the screen wall, did all the wiring, re-ran the hvac, built the soffits, and on and on. A lot more elbow grease than money
#963
Well unfortunately Fox news was incorrect. Not all teachers get off work at 2:00 and go home to their mansions, lol.
The projector was purchased broken off eBay, wasn't hard to fix. The surround amp came from a yard sale, it was her ex husband's, cost a whole $5. The ceiling I made by hand with the art deco accents cast from plastic resin. I built the screen wall, did all the wiring, re-ran the hvac, built the soffits, and on and on. A lot more elbow grease than money
The projector was purchased broken off eBay, wasn't hard to fix. The surround amp came from a yard sale, it was her ex husband's, cost a whole $5. The ceiling I made by hand with the art deco accents cast from plastic resin. I built the screen wall, did all the wiring, re-ran the hvac, built the soffits, and on and on. A lot more elbow grease than money
#964
One of the biggest mistakes I made was not going into teaching when I had the chance.
I oughtta know, my father's a retired teacher.
I have the greatest respect for teachers (and professors), and believe that they deserve every penny they earn, and more.
- Eric
I oughtta know, my father's a retired teacher.
I have the greatest respect for teachers (and professors), and believe that they deserve every penny they earn, and more.
- Eric
#965
Why yes, I do
But to be fair, I get paid for nine months. I just choose to have my pay spread over 12. It gives the illusion of paid summers off. And actually, until last summer I chose to teach every summer for the extra pay. I haven't decided about this summer yet.
Thank you my friend. That actually means a lot.
But to be fair, I get paid for nine months. I just choose to have my pay spread over 12. It gives the illusion of paid summers off. And actually, until last summer I chose to teach every summer for the extra pay. I haven't decided about this summer yet.
Thank you my friend. That actually means a lot.
#966
Mac I agree with Eric a 100% my wife is a natural born teacher I keep telling her to go for it and the pay is why she doesn't want to do it so she is currently getting her accounting degree. Long story short I comend you on your life's calling !
#967
So....back to the Olds. I was reading Rob's "Into the Unknown" and he mentioned a weird black goo at the bottom of the AC box in the drain hole, possible used to be a rubber grommet. I have the same thing. Does this mean the evaporator is leaking? And if so, can it be repaired?
In order to pull it, as per Rob's post #53 in:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oration-2.html
Can I just pull the right side wheel well to access the hidden bolts?
In order to pull it, as per Rob's post #53 in:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oration-2.html
Can I just pull the right side wheel well to access the hidden bolts?
#968
Wouldn't matter. I'd be miserable if I weren't in the classroom. Now, the non-classroom BS gets a little old. I've been practicing my "I'm rubber and you're glue" attitude.
But thanks Justin. You guys are getting me all choked up...
#969
So....back to the Olds. I was reading Rob's "Into the Unknown" and he mentioned a weird black goo at the bottom of the AC box in the drain hole, possible used to be a rubber grommet, {actually I believe this was the drain tube}. I have the same thing. Does this mean the evaporator is leaking? And if so, can it be repaired?
In order to pull it, as per Rob's post #53 in:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oration-2.html
Can I just pull the right side wheel well to access the hidden bolts?
In order to pull it, as per Rob's post #53 in:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oration-2.html
Can I just pull the right side wheel well to access the hidden bolts?
Last edited by Macadoo; March 28th, 2014 at 05:52 PM.
#970
I've grown overdependent on you folks, lol. I'll get my lazy fingers working and do a little research. I'm guessing I'll have to take it somewhere (auto shop or HVAC?) but if I could figure out a way to pump it full of air, compressed to what, 100 psi? and submerge it in water, that might show bubbles if it's leaking?
#971
Im no pro with the ac systems on these cars but I would clean the system and run it then if it does leak get it fixed at that point. The box is easy enough to access. Any radiator shop can pressure test it and repair if needed. I would not trust a run of the mill repair shop. If you cant find a shop that specializes in radiators try a truck repair shop many truck repair shops still fix leaking cores and stuff of that nature.
Last edited by coppercutlass; March 28th, 2014 at 06:38 PM.
#972
You could use standard fittings to plug one end and plumb the other to an air compressor, but I believe that an A/C shop could probably do a better test.
Frankly, I have no idea - I just mess with them if they break.
- Eric
Frankly, I have no idea - I just mess with them if they break.
- Eric
#974
Im no pro with the ac systems on these cars but I would clean the system and run it then if it does leak get it fixed at that point. The box is easy enough to access. Any radiator shop can pressure test it and repair if needed. I would not trust a run of the mill repair shop. If you cant find a shop that specializes in radiators try a truck repair shop many truck repair shops still fix leaking cores and stuff of that nature.
Chuck, not even a small chance. I'm still working on the engine bay and right now all I get are Saturdays if they aren't too cold. Feel free to drive out after the meeting. I'm not too far off your beaten path.
#977
#979
I do think it's going to look good, and hopefully work good, but I think it's time I draw the line. And I mean get a big, fat Sharpie and draw a real line. "Do not cross!" Lol.
#980
So I've been all over the map today trying to figure out which way to go with the AC. I want to get to it soon since I've gotten the wheel well out and I'm working on the firewall. To shorten the story, there seems to be plenty of R12 refrigerant available on eBay. If I test and/or replace the evaporator, replace all the o-rings, replace the port valves, in essence make the system tight, is there any reason to go through the hassle and cost of converting to 134a? Lastly, is there a difference between R12 and R12a?
#981
So I've been all over the map today trying to figure out which way to go with the AC. I want to get to it soon since I've gotten the wheel well out and I'm working on the firewall. To shorten the story, there seems to be plenty of R12 refrigerant available on eBay. If I test and/or replace the evaporator, replace all the o-rings, replace the port valves, in essence make the system tight, is there any reason to go through the hassle and cost of converting to 134a? Lastly, is there a difference between R12 and R12a?
#982
You don't have to be certified to buy R12. I'm certified and you are supposed to be certified to get it. But you can buy it on Ebay, many sellers will sell it to you IF you sign a paper for them saying you bought it for a certified AC tech to use on your car. You can also take a test to become certified, weirdly...you don't have to have actual hands on experience! But you have to be "book smart" and know about AC systems, pressures, safety, etc.
#985
Thanks fellas. I'll do my research. [other] Eric, I think I'm pretty familiar with what needs to happen. Tell me if I'm missing something.
1. Have the evap and condenser pressure tested and flushed.
2. Have the hoses inspected
3. Test the compressor
4. Inspect the POA valve
5. Replace the filter/dryer
6. Replace all o-rings
6b. Replace port valves
7. Assemble and vacuum to X lbs negative pressure
8. Charge (add oil first)
Of course this is just from memory. I'll be sure to do my homework but any and all advice would be appreciated.
1. Have the evap and condenser pressure tested and flushed.
2. Have the hoses inspected
3. Test the compressor
4. Inspect the POA valve
5. Replace the filter/dryer
6. Replace all o-rings
6b. Replace port valves
7. Assemble and vacuum to X lbs negative pressure
8. Charge (add oil first)
Of course this is just from memory. I'll be sure to do my homework but any and all advice would be appreciated.
Last edited by Macadoo; April 1st, 2014 at 03:07 PM.
#986
My solution for degreasing with dawn and hot water in the garage. $8 from Dollar General and it conforms to whatever shape I need.
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I'm starting to understand why Rob did so much disassembly. But I think I've successfully drawn the line. I'll degrease and paint what I can get to after taking apart that brake assembly.
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Hmm, aren't brakes supposed to have pads?
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I'm starting to understand why Rob did so much disassembly. But I think I've successfully drawn the line. I'll degrease and paint what I can get to after taking apart that brake assembly.
[IMG][/IMG]
Hmm, aren't brakes supposed to have pads?
[IMG][/IMG]
#987
#989
>chuckle<
#990
Btw mac. I bought brembo drums for 40 bucks pre painted last year from summit racing. I did my whole front end suspension parts and steering along with brakes for just a tick over 400. I did get moroso trick springs and lakewood 90/10's for free which would have put me around 680 ish.
#991
#992
Hey Mac are you going to invite all us nice guys over for a swim and drinks when you all finished ? Those look like bonded shoes no rivets, I would replace all. Wheel cylinders and springs are cheap!! Just clean up the adjusters on a wire wheel and dab some copper anti seize on the threads.
Last edited by 76olds; April 5th, 2014 at 02:23 PM.
#993
- Eric
Last edited by MDchanic; April 5th, 2014 at 03:45 PM. Reason: typo
#994
I'll need to pick up some brake tools before I go any further but they shouldn't be any problem. Thanks for the tips fellas.
76, I just went for a swim...in dawn soap and oven cleaner. Think I'll pass on that again for a while. I covered all the rubber boots and bushings in petroleum jelly before spraying with oven cleaner. It seemed to do the trick but time will tell. Nine band-aids (darn cotter pins) and I'm a little sore but it's pretty clean.
"I'm experiencing discomfort in my rototenpertilator." The B-9 robot form Lost in Space
76, I just went for a swim...in dawn soap and oven cleaner. Think I'll pass on that again for a while. I covered all the rubber boots and bushings in petroleum jelly before spraying with oven cleaner. It seemed to do the trick but time will tell. Nine band-aids (darn cotter pins) and I'm a little sore but it's pretty clean.
"I'm experiencing discomfort in my rototenpertilator." The B-9 robot form Lost in Space
#996
I prefer to do it with tools that make the parts just slip together or apart, without undue loss of skin.
Sure, I've used all kinds of implements of destruction to do this, but there's no comparison to using the right tools.
- Eric
#997
the only right tools I can think of is for the pins to compress the springs with the little cups you rotate and the adjuster lever you can use to install the long springs. I have done many sets of shoes with little to no frustration with those simple tools . Albeit I use locking needle nose pliers the smooth needle nose pliers will slip. if you have a pair of junk needle nose pliers grab a cut off tool and put on notch on them to grasp the little locking spring retainer for the pins. The only set of drums that had me frustrated was on a big box truck back when I was a mechanic helper working on fleet trucks. Also when doing drums its one of the very few times I wear mechanix gloves been there done that and it sucks I also wear safety glasses. I had a spring snap on me and hit me in the forehead and left a nice little scar.
#998
I have to agree with Eric on that one, the over 47 shakes and needle nose pliers gets scary on the hold down springs lol. Specially if your eyes are as bad as mine.... I have to get my face in there. PFFFT I'd probably loose a nostril with a screw driver . I have the 2 brake tools myself .