Pulling the motor

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 03:59 PM
  #961  
76olds's Avatar
Hookers under Hood
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,543
From: Ontario, Canada
Geez I'm in the wrong business. All the comforts there Mac. I should have been a teacher!!!
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 04:55 PM
  #962  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by 76olds
Geez I'm in the wrong business. All the comforts there Mac. I should have been a teacher!!!
Well unfortunately Fox news was incorrect. Not all teachers get off work at 2:00 and go home to their mansions, lol.
The projector was purchased broken off eBay, wasn't hard to fix. The surround amp came from a yard sale, it was her ex husband's, cost a whole $5. The ceiling I made by hand with the art deco accents cast from plastic resin. I built the screen wall, did all the wiring, re-ran the hvac, built the soffits, and on and on. A lot more elbow grease than money
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 06:41 PM
  #963  
pogo69's Avatar
morgan
 
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,925
From: CT
Originally Posted by Macadoo
Well unfortunately Fox news was incorrect. Not all teachers get off work at 2:00 and go home to their mansions, lol.
The projector was purchased broken off eBay, wasn't hard to fix. The surround amp came from a yard sale, it was her ex husband's, cost a whole $5. The ceiling I made by hand with the art deco accents cast from plastic resin. I built the screen wall, did all the wiring, re-ran the hvac, built the soffits, and on and on. A lot more elbow grease than money
Well you do get the whole summer off from work?
Old Mar 25, 2014 | 07:55 PM
  #964  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
One of the biggest mistakes I made was not going into teaching when I had the chance.

I oughtta know, my father's a retired teacher.

I have the greatest respect for teachers (and professors), and believe that they deserve every penny they earn, and more.

- Eric
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 04:31 PM
  #965  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by pogo69
Well you do get the whole summer off from work?
Why yes, I do
But to be fair, I get paid for nine months. I just choose to have my pay spread over 12. It gives the illusion of paid summers off. And actually, until last summer I chose to teach every summer for the extra pay. I haven't decided about this summer yet.

Originally Posted by MDchanic
One of the biggest mistakes I made was not going into teaching when I had the chance.

I oughtta know, my father's a retired teacher.

I have the greatest respect for teachers (and professors), and believe that they deserve every penny they earn, and more.

- Eric
Thank you my friend. That actually means a lot.
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 04:38 PM
  #966  
oldstata's Avatar
Justin
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,454
From: utah
Mac I agree with Eric a 100% my wife is a natural born teacher I keep telling her to go for it and the pay is why she doesn't want to do it so she is currently getting her accounting degree. Long story short I comend you on your life's calling !
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #967  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
So....back to the Olds. I was reading Rob's "Into the Unknown" and he mentioned a weird black goo at the bottom of the AC box in the drain hole, possible used to be a rubber grommet. I have the same thing. Does this mean the evaporator is leaking? And if so, can it be repaired?
In order to pull it, as per Rob's post #53 in:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oration-2.html
Can I just pull the right side wheel well to access the hidden bolts?
Old Mar 26, 2014 | 04:42 PM
  #968  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by oldstata
Mac I agree with Eric a 100% my wife is a natural born teacher I keep telling her to go for it and the pay is why she doesn't want to do it so she is currently getting her accounting degree. Long story short I comend you on your life's calling !
Wait, are you saying I could make more money in another field???
Wouldn't matter. I'd be miserable if I weren't in the classroom. Now, the non-classroom BS gets a little old. I've been practicing my "I'm rubber and you're glue" attitude.

But thanks Justin. You guys are getting me all choked up...
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 05:49 PM
  #969  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by Macadoo
So....back to the Olds. I was reading Rob's "Into the Unknown" and he mentioned a weird black goo at the bottom of the AC box in the drain hole, possible used to be a rubber grommet, {actually I believe this was the drain tube}. I have the same thing. Does this mean the evaporator is leaking? And if so, can it be repaired?
In order to pull it, as per Rob's post #53 in:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oration-2.html
Can I just pull the right side wheel well to access the hidden bolts?
Any ideas? I guess I'm wondering if I can somehow test the evaporator for leaks once it's out. The compressor is already off so no running tests.

Last edited by Macadoo; Mar 28, 2014 at 05:52 PM.
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 06:17 PM
  #970  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
I've grown overdependent on you folks, lol. I'll get my lazy fingers working and do a little research. I'm guessing I'll have to take it somewhere (auto shop or HVAC?) but if I could figure out a way to pump it full of air, compressed to what, 100 psi? and submerge it in water, that might show bubbles if it's leaking?
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #971  
coppercutlass's Avatar
Chevy budget Olds powered
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,638
From: Elgin, Illinois
Im no pro with the ac systems on these cars but I would clean the system and run it then if it does leak get it fixed at that point. The box is easy enough to access. Any radiator shop can pressure test it and repair if needed. I would not trust a run of the mill repair shop. If you cant find a shop that specializes in radiators try a truck repair shop many truck repair shops still fix leaking cores and stuff of that nature.

Last edited by coppercutlass; Mar 28, 2014 at 06:38 PM.
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 07:04 PM
  #972  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
You could use standard fittings to plug one end and plumb the other to an air compressor, but I believe that an A/C shop could probably do a better test.

Frankly, I have no idea - I just mess with them if they break.

- Eric
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 08:33 PM
  #973  
Eubiedad's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 38
From: Batavia, IL
Cool

Any chance that car will be running when I come down in a couple weeks? Or do I need to plan a garage stop?
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 06:36 AM
  #974  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by coppercutlass
Im no pro with the ac systems on these cars but I would clean the system and run it then if it does leak get it fixed at that point. The box is easy enough to access. Any radiator shop can pressure test it and repair if needed. I would not trust a run of the mill repair shop. If you cant find a shop that specializes in radiators try a truck repair shop many truck repair shops still fix leaking cores and stuff of that nature.
Originally Posted by MDchanic
You could use standard fittings to plug one end and plumb the other to an air compressor, but I believe that an A/C shop could probably do a better test.

Frankly, I have no idea - I just mess with them if they break.

- Eric
Thanks guys. We used to have a local radiator shop, I'll check it out. I guess it was Rob's post about the dissolving rubber drain hose that's got me thinking it's leaking. And since I have to convert to 134a anyway.....

Originally Posted by Eubiedad
Any chance that car will be running when I come down in a couple weeks? Or do I need to plan a garage stop?
Chuck, not even a small chance. I'm still working on the engine bay and right now all I get are Saturdays if they aren't too cold. Feel free to drive out after the meeting. I'm not too far off your beaten path.
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 12:20 PM
  #975  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Might...ahh no!.......

[IMG][/IMG]

...as......no no no......

[IMG][/IMG]

....WELL.......

[IMG][/IMG]

Dagnabitt. Now I suppose I'll have to do the other side....
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 01:00 PM
  #976  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Should've bought one of those helmets while you had the chance.

I look forward to seeing what this car looks like when it's done... In the summer of 2016!

- Eric
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 02:59 PM
  #977  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by MDchanic
Should've bought one of those helmets while you had the chance.

I look forward to seeing what this car looks like when it's done... In the summer of 2016!

- Eric
Optimist
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 08:49 PM
  #978  
z11375ss's Avatar
Senior Moment Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,238
I got a good laugh from those last posts. Damn things just creep up and git ya! Next thing you know, you have a beautiful engine bay! LOL!
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 09:03 PM
  #979  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by z11375ss
I got a good laugh from those last posts. Damn things just creep up and git ya! Next thing you know, you have a beautiful engine bay! LOL!
I do think it's going to look good, and hopefully work good, but I think it's time I draw the line. And I mean get a big, fat Sharpie and draw a real line. "Do not cross!" Lol.
Old Mar 30, 2014 | 06:12 PM
  #980  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
So I've been all over the map today trying to figure out which way to go with the AC. I want to get to it soon since I've gotten the wheel well out and I'm working on the firewall. To shorten the story, there seems to be plenty of R12 refrigerant available on eBay. If I test and/or replace the evaporator, replace all the o-rings, replace the port valves, in essence make the system tight, is there any reason to go through the hassle and cost of converting to 134a? Lastly, is there a difference between R12 and R12a?
Old Mar 30, 2014 | 06:17 PM
  #981  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by Macadoo
So I've been all over the map today trying to figure out which way to go with the AC. I want to get to it soon since I've gotten the wheel well out and I'm working on the firewall. To shorten the story, there seems to be plenty of R12 refrigerant available on eBay. If I test and/or replace the evaporator, replace all the o-rings, replace the port valves, in essence make the system tight, is there any reason to go through the hassle and cost of converting to 134a? Lastly, is there a difference between R12 and R12a?
Well nevermind. Seems we have to be EPA certified in order to purchase R12. Crap.
Old Mar 30, 2014 | 07:30 PM
  #982  
mrolds69's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,907
From: Toytown, MA
You don't have to be certified to buy R12. I'm certified and you are supposed to be certified to get it. But you can buy it on Ebay, many sellers will sell it to you IF you sign a paper for them saying you bought it for a certified AC tech to use on your car. You can also take a test to become certified, weirdly...you don't have to have actual hands on experience! But you have to be "book smart" and know about AC systems, pressures, safety, etc.
Old Mar 30, 2014 | 07:54 PM
  #983  
oldcutlass's Avatar
Administrator
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 42,496
From: Poteau, Ok
Mac, there is a specific sequence of events that have to take place to recharge your system and have run properly and last.
Old Mar 30, 2014 | 08:12 PM
  #984  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
R12 is easy to get. I bought several cans a few months ago at a flea market for about $2 a can.
There's plenty of it out there.

- Eric
Old Mar 31, 2014 | 04:58 PM
  #985  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Thanks fellas. I'll do my research. [other] Eric, I think I'm pretty familiar with what needs to happen. Tell me if I'm missing something.
1. Have the evap and condenser pressure tested and flushed.
2. Have the hoses inspected
3. Test the compressor
4. Inspect the POA valve
5. Replace the filter/dryer
6. Replace all o-rings
6b. Replace port valves
7. Assemble and vacuum to X lbs negative pressure
8. Charge (add oil first)

Of course this is just from memory. I'll be sure to do my homework but any and all advice would be appreciated.

Last edited by Macadoo; Apr 1, 2014 at 03:07 PM.
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #986  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
My solution for degreasing with dawn and hot water in the garage. $8 from Dollar General and it conforms to whatever shape I need.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

I'm starting to understand why Rob did so much disassembly. But I think I've successfully drawn the line. I'll degrease and paint what I can get to after taking apart that brake assembly.

[IMG][/IMG]

Hmm, aren't brakes supposed to have pads?

[IMG][/IMG]
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 07:21 AM
  #987  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by Macadoo
Hmm, aren't brakes supposed to have pads?
Those shoes look worn, but serviceable.

Since it's apart, it's reasonable to replace them, but they've got a few miles left in them.

- Eric
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 08:16 AM
  #988  
z11375ss's Avatar
Senior Moment Member
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,238
MY Pool!!!!
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 12:54 PM
  #989  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
Originally Posted by MDchanic
Those shoes look worn, but serviceable.

Since it's apart, it's reasonable to replace them, but they've got a few miles left in them.

- Eric
Are they like discs? As in rivets = bad? I don't see any rivets but the drum has a pretty good groove down the center. So yeah, I'll be rebuilding the brakes. When I parked her there wasn't much braking power. Pedal went to the floor but I didn't see any fluid leaks. Wheel cylinder?

Originally Posted by z11375ss
MY Pool!!!!
>chuckle<
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 01:05 PM
  #990  
coppercutlass's Avatar
Chevy budget Olds powered
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,638
From: Elgin, Illinois
Btw mac. I bought brembo drums for 40 bucks pre painted last year from summit racing. I did my whole front end suspension parts and steering along with brakes for just a tick over 400. I did get moroso trick springs and lakewood 90/10's for free which would have put me around 680 ish.
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 01:07 PM
  #991  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by Macadoo
Pedal went to the floor but I didn't see any fluid leaks. Wheel cylinder?
When wheel cylinders go bad, they leak.

Probably they were just out of adjustment.
Go through all four, with new shoes, spring kits, and adjusters and see how she feels.

- Eric
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 02:18 PM
  #992  
76olds's Avatar
Hookers under Hood
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,543
From: Ontario, Canada
Hey Mac are you going to invite all us nice guys over for a swim and drinks when you all finished ? Those look like bonded shoes no rivets, I would replace all. Wheel cylinders and springs are cheap!! Just clean up the adjusters on a wire wheel and dab some copper anti seize on the threads.

Last edited by 76olds; Apr 5, 2014 at 02:23 PM.
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 02:41 PM
  #993  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by 76olds
Just clean up the adjusters on a wire wheel and dab some copper anti seize on the threads.
I agree, if they're in good shape, but sometimes the star wheels are all bunged up and the threads are rusty, and if that's the case, adjusters are cheap, too.

- Eric

Last edited by MDchanic; Apr 5, 2014 at 03:45 PM. Reason: typo
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 02:48 PM
  #994  
Macadoo's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,900
From: Central Illinois
I'll need to pick up some brake tools before I go any further but they shouldn't be any problem. Thanks for the tips fellas.
76, I just went for a swim...in dawn soap and oven cleaner. Think I'll pass on that again for a while. I covered all the rubber boots and bushings in petroleum jelly before spraying with oven cleaner. It seemed to do the trick but time will tell. Nine band-aids (darn cotter pins) and I'm a little sore but it's pretty clean.
"I'm experiencing discomfort in my rototenpertilator." The B-9 robot form Lost in Space
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 03:13 PM
  #995  
coppercutlass's Avatar
Chevy budget Olds powered
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,638
From: Elgin, Illinois
"Brake tools " whats that mean lol. Needle nose pilers and a flat screw driver should to the trick lol.
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #996  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by coppercutlass
Needle nose pilers and a flat screw driver should to the trick lol.
If you have a very high frustration threshold, anyway.

I prefer to do it with tools that make the parts just slip together or apart, without undue loss of skin.

Sure, I've used all kinds of implements of destruction to do this, but there's no comparison to using the right tools.

- Eric
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 03:36 PM
  #997  
coppercutlass's Avatar
Chevy budget Olds powered
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,638
From: Elgin, Illinois
the only right tools I can think of is for the pins to compress the springs with the little cups you rotate and the adjuster lever you can use to install the long springs. I have done many sets of shoes with little to no frustration with those simple tools . Albeit I use locking needle nose pliers the smooth needle nose pliers will slip. if you have a pair of junk needle nose pliers grab a cut off tool and put on notch on them to grasp the little locking spring retainer for the pins. The only set of drums that had me frustrated was on a big box truck back when I was a mechanic helper working on fleet trucks. Also when doing drums its one of the very few times I wear mechanix gloves been there done that and it sucks I also wear safety glasses. I had a spring snap on me and hit me in the forehead and left a nice little scar.
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 03:37 PM
  #998  
76olds's Avatar
Hookers under Hood
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,543
From: Ontario, Canada
I have to agree with Eric on that one, the over 47 shakes and needle nose pliers gets scary on the hold down springs lol. Specially if your eyes are as bad as mine.... I have to get my face in there. PFFFT I'd probably loose a nostril with a screw driver . I have the 2 brake tools myself .
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 03:43 PM
  #999  
MDchanic's Avatar
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
I have always found this tool to be the most useful, as well as the one for turning the spring clips that retain the shoes.



- Eric
Old Apr 5, 2014 | 03:54 PM
  #1000  
76olds's Avatar
Hookers under Hood
 
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,543
From: Ontario, Canada
X2 a must have brake tool rite their.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:36 AM.