That's not too bad. About double the cost of a set of Fel-Pros.
Some of the fancy racing gaskets are much more.

I'd be interested in knowing how things go when you get them.

- Eric

 

Wow I just finished ready this thread. (very slow day at work and dial-up connection too) Makes me glad my moter was done before I got it. But I will get to do a thread on replacing rear quarters. Good luck and keep it up

Larry

 

Building and engine ain't too bad lshlsh2 . If you need some guidance with your quarters feel free to pm me . I'm a body man by trade. I also have to agree with aric 105 for shims ain't bad at all . I knew he sold em just not how much.

 

Thanks will do.

Larry

 

I'm just now learning this?! Oh Copper, I'll be bugging you A LOT after I get my motor back in

 

Oil pan's on and I think it went pretty well. Shop got up to 65 and I had the rtv sitting in the window/sun. I had a slight freak out moment when I laid the pan on and it was about a quarter inch above the surface but it turned out to be the rubber end seals weren't all the way in. I went ahead with the cork gaskets and rtv on all surfaces, including both sides of the end seals. Just a few pics...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Starting to look like a motor again

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Thanks Larry. Actually it's a lot of fun. I have a heated building (sort of) and all the time I need. Oh, and the fellas here. Without them I never would have tried doing all this.

Eric, Smitty said to bolt the heads on with dry gaskets but I had read that it's best spray them with the copper adhesive. Opinions? I'm tempted to listen to Smitty. I know the factory didn't use anything.

 

Yeah, I'm sure the factory didn't. It just seems wrong, though.
I'd be inclined to use a very thin layer of spray copper or something similar.

I'm curious to hear what others who have done this have used.

Engine looks nice! That's one fancy RTV job there. I was never very good at coloring within the lines as a kid.

- Eric

 

I used copper paint on the mr. Gasket ultra seal head gaskets. No issues just a thin coat that's all.

 

Thanks Eric, I guess it's the artist in me. I like a good attention to detail. Plus, if i'm going to go to the trouble of painting it, paint doesn't stick to silicone very well

 

Copper paint? I may start another thread on this question and see what the consensus is.

 

Just finished watching Death Proof, that Grind House flick with Kurt Russel. How could they do that to a 1970 Dodge Challenger?

 

By copper paint I mean the permatex stuff copper sealent. But you can use a metallic gold or silver or that cheap chrome spray paint for sealant. From what I have read it essentially does the same crap .

 

Lol, I wouldn't have know that.

 

I'm transferring the pulley studs from the old water pump to the new one. They cleaned up fine but should I use locktite on them?

 

Naaah. No need to. They'll be fine.

- Eric

 

What I figured. Thanks.

 

The consensus is; sealant on the head shims. Seems reasonable considering I haven't had the block milled.

 

Yeah, I don't know much about surface machining, but I believe that the factory used a fast-and-dirty "broaching" technique to make those surfaces, while a machine shop would mill them. Differences in the microscopic makeup if the factory and current techniques might affect sealing one way or another.

I'd be interested to hear more about this from someone who knows.

- Eric

 

"I'd be interested to hear more about this from someone who knows. "

X2

 

I was looking for intake bolts for my new Edel Performer and I learned that the Edel part number is 8514. However, when I search for that part number I get different looking bolts. Some are chrome, some are not, and different lengths and different number of bolts. Jeez...
Can I use my old cast iron manifold bolts? They clean up and polish real nice but without some kind of sealant (which i don't know of anything clear that withstand the heat) they will surely rust.

 

Here's Summit's kit. Only ten bolts. Am I missing something?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8514/overview/

 

IDK what manifold you have but my RPM required 2 very small head bolts to clear the intake runners on the passenger side. besides those two bolts you coul use the original intake bolts.

see the pic on this page it shows the small headed bolts and rec the same PN as you have listed

oh yeah on summits pic it says this

Image is a representation of this item.
Actual item may vary.

 

Yeah Retro, I'd read about the clearance problem. I have the 3711 Performer. And no, I didn't see the disclaimer about the image. Thanks dude.

 

Reuse your bolts and add clear or use high temp aluminum paint.

 

High temp aluminum maybe. Clear won't hold. I've got some time to decide. Of course they would make a good stocking stuffer

 

From a week or so after I brought her home....

"Either way, I'll do as Oldcutlass suggests, plus brakes, maybe an HEI (is that worth it?) and dual exhaust. And then I'll see how she runs and sounds. Will replacing that rear seal be pricey? Not sure I feel like messing with unbolting the transmission."

Sigh....I was so young then.

 

Lol

 

Yeah, you remember those early posts. You and Oldcutlass were my first friends on here. Bodywork and wheels...so much for the top of my list, lol.

 

Lol, yeah well I think I have body work and wheels down just need you to rebuild my Bbo for me

 

Too bad we're so far apart, between the two of us we could build a helluva car. I'm tempted to head out your way though, you have some dark skies out there. Good for my telescope:

http://studio407.net/telescope.htm

 

Be warned ... thoughts like that are like a tumour ... they grow all by themselves until they take over. I wound up in Atlanta twice, Nashville once and the detroit area 3 times because of it. I don't even want to consider how much gas I've burned doing it.

 

Meeting up with folks on CO? Pretty cool if you ask me. But I don't get out much.

 

I like meeting fellow car guys

I have a few olds guys I talk to even tho there not part of the form
So yeah if your ever out this way or if I am out your way why not meet up and chat about cars

 

Sounds good

 

MAW version 2.1
Any advantages or disadvantages to going ahead and rebuilding the front end while the motor is out? Seems more accessible.
I haven't actually tested the tie rod ends or ball joints yet but I will. Could be a few years old, could be forty years old. Any kits available?
6 inches of snow last night. No big deal.

 

I wouldn't mess with the ball joints while the engine is out, you might find it hard to get the upper ball joint stud back in the spindle. You have to jack up the lower control arm to compress the spring enough to attach the spindle. Without the engine the car is too light.

 

x2

 

If you look at the upper ball joint if there are still rivets on them, then they are original. The rest of the parts are hard to tell by looking at them. I would make sure the parts are worn first by checking the amount of play in them. The major wear items in the front end are the rubber bushings on the upper and lower control arms.

 

If you do choose to pull control arms etc. and replace the bushings (good idea unless they are fresh) do not tighten any bolts that hold the position of a bushing until all of the weight of the car is on the ground and you have bounced it up and down several times. PUT A NOTE on the windshield to remember to tighten them. If the bushings are tightened first without the weight, they will have torsion applied to them constantly when the car is completed and at rest destroying them in short order.

When choosing new bushings, linkage and joints, use very high quality components it has a lot of effect on how long they last.

If the parts are tight you may want to replace the boots only and keep the "old time quality" original parts.