I want to put headers on whats a good brand and where can i get them should the be cerramick!

 

I used Hooker Super Competition (coated) on a small block and following the instuctions they went in like they had eyes. Definitely not the cheapest $ on the market, but I am extremely happy with them. I've used Hooker many times on many applications and have NEVER had a problem.

 

http://www.mjproformance.com/
The best fitting headers, a little pricey, but worth every penny..they're stainless

 

Do that even make any for a SBO? Did the issues you had with your get sorted out?

 

The wiring and intake issues have been worked out thanks for all your help everyone!

 

Sorry, didn't notice the SBO part, I don't know if Smitty has any offerings for SB's.. As far as issues, apparently I rec'd a prototype set, and they did require more than a little tweaking, but the fit and quality is IMHO, the best BBO headers on the market..

 

I've had the same pair of hooker headers on my 71 cutlass supreme since about 1992. The manifolds were not fun to remove, but the headers were a breeze to put in. I got mine from summit (iirc), you can probably also get them from the folks at Portland Speed on Forest Ave. I can't remember the guy's name, but he's very knowledgable.

 

Ive had a set of Hooker Super Comps on for 8 years uncoated.........Wish i would of coated them back in the day but they were pushing $475 even back then.........No fitment issues at all..........

 

I have the Sanderson coated shorty headers on my 350. NOTHING needs to be moved, hammered etc. they just go right in. No ground clearance issues either. Price is not too bad either.

 

Why do all the headers i find online say EXCLUDING supreme??? Isnt the motor in the same spot as all normal cutlasses??

 

Did you try Sanderson headers?

 

Ignore that urban myth...........

 

I am working on my 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible and running into availability issues with headers. Everywhere I turn, the footnotes say "Not compatible with Cutlass Supreme" because of engine location. I have the engine out and am re-building. Want to install new exhaust and need to confirm which headers you used that worked. Several options available for exhaust - nothing available for headers, appreciate a reply. . .Sean

 

I am working on my 1971 Cutlass Supreme Convertible and running into availability issues with headers. Everywhere I turn, the footnotes say "Not compatible with Cutlass Supreme" because of engine location. I have the engine out and am re-building. Want to install new exhaust and need to confirm which headers you used that worked. Several options available for exhaust - nothing available for headers, appreciate a reply. . .Sean

 

Where's Joe P. when you need him.

 

The won't fit a Supreme is total BS. Now that doesn't mean that the headers will go in with no modification, moving the brake metering valve is necessary on full length headers is always a thing. Due to worn body mounts and the style of motor mounts used, you may have fitment issues or even improperly made headers. Hooker and Hedman are usually better than the insta rust Flowtech headers. There is also Sanderson and Thornton shorties, if ground clearance is an issue. I used the Chinese stainless full length on my 70S. A touch low and the pipe hit the 2261 mount on the drivers side.

 

Out working on my truck...

Is it that time again?

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Absolutely correct. It is a myth that just won’t die. I installed Heddman headers on both my 70 and 71 Supremes way before Al Gore invented the internet and had no issues.

With a big block yes, but with a small block it is not necessary.

 

I had to move the metering block on mine.

 

Hmmm. Did you need the room during installation? On both of my cars I had the engine out, laid the headers in, then dropped the engine into place. I never tried to install headers with the engine already in. There was plenty of clearance with Heddman headers on both cars.

 

Every manufacturer routes the tubes differently, so fitment needs to specify header brand to be useful.

 

The Chinese stainless full length supposedly copy the Hooker headers, I believe. It was definitely in the way on my 70S, 4 wheel drum brakes.

 

In my experience, installing my first set of headers in an Olds “A” body in ‘79 or so, a 70 Supreme as it were, there is no specific hurdle other than starter and oil filter mount. The brake valve is a common issue and I found it is more likely in the way on SBO applications. Disconnecting the engine mount through bolts and raising the engine is generally needed as well. One might have a pipe touching the crossmember or interference from an upper control arm bolt, not unusual and generally easy to overcome.

I don’t know where that BS about offset Supreme drivelines got footing but it’s rooted deep.

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