Looking for headers for 72 cutlass supreme convertible...anybody that can give me a brand and part#. Especially someone who has actually installed them on the same car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!! PS 350 rocket/350 trans.

 

I have a set of Heddman headers on my car. This particular set is from the early-90s so I can't comment on the quality of the current headers, but the ones I have fit well with no leaks in the 25+ years they've been on the car.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...utlass-supreme

 

Hooker Competition if car is basically stock & no appreciable modifications on horizon, Hooker Super Competition if engine modifications present or on horizon. Numbers vary with finish so I didn’t spend the time to look them up. I used Hedmans waaay back in early 80’s & they were good, as Kenneth stated above I can’t vouch for modern iterations.

DO NOT BELIEVE ANY B.S. ABOUT HEADERS NOT FITTING SUPREME MODELS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

This is so important. Someone, somewhere, many many moons ago, made a mistake and it stuck. The engine bay is basically the same between all A bodies of the same generation and the headers will fit a particular engine family across the platform.

 

Thanks for feedback.

 

Not even "basically". It is EXACTLY the same.

 

Not to be negative but i am asking for a part# or brand that somebody actually installed and didn't have any major issues with...like having to lift motor on one side or moving brake portioning valve etc... Also if they liked look and perfmance. Evey header question always ends up in a discussion about the cutlass all being the same fitment.

 

If you are planning to install full length headers (and anything else is a waste of time in my opinion) then you WILL need to lift the engine. You WILL need to remove the oil filter adapter. You WILL need to drop the starter. You WILL break the dipstick tube trying to remove it. You almost certainly WILL have to relocate the distribution block/combo valve. You almost certainly WILL have to do something with the backdrive linkage.

Pick the headers that are the best diameter and length for your engine and intended use. You will have to work to install them, and then they will hang down and scrape on speed bumps. Use Remflex gaskets to avoid having to replace them every six months or so.

If you don't find this an acceptable situation, stick with W/Z manifolds.

 

I run 1 7/8” ARH SS headers, perfect fit, requires a Powermaster (or clone) starter, in a ‘71 442, 455.
https://americanracingheaders.com/
Please read Joe’s text, we are hotrodder’s right...

 

I was also going to suggest ARH. They are expensive because they are good.

 

I would recommend sticking with the W/Z manifolds. I went to full length headers on my 71 98 and they've been a PITA. As regular maintenance I install new header gaskets ever spring because they end up leaking. I've used fancy Remflex gaskets, I run high-quality Hedman Hedders AND I've used different brands of locking bolts. The headers always leak within a year.

I suppose I should have had the exhaust manifold mating surface on the heads trued when I built the engine. I did pay an exhaust shop to install the headers for me since I had dual exhaust done at the same time. As I recall, it was less than $500 for the exhaust and the install. FWIW, when I sell my 71 98 I am going to sell it with the headers and keep the W/Z manifolds I have.

 

The W/Z won't fit a 350 and the Thornton 350 manifolds are a questionable upgrade. Too bad the Chinese stainless headers are actually a copy of the Hooker BBO header. They fit a 350 but hand below the crossmember. I have a ton of ground clearance so I am going to run them.

 

Sorry, somehow I originally posted this in the wrong thread.

Hooker 3901-xx(Finish) 1 5/8” x 2.5” Competition
Hooker 3107-xx. 1 3/4” x 3” Super Competition

Remember gang, it’s a 350 engine in Doc’s car, no W/Z manifolds, only anemic small block manifolds. Joe P lists things as it goes - headers, especially on small block don’t just fall in. You WILL have to tip or raise the engine after removing engine mount through bolts, drop the starter (or remove it), remove the oil filter mount (get a new gasket), likely have to move brake block (if careful you can FORCE it by hand far enough leaving the lines connected, just don’t kink em), you might have to ding a tube to clear an upper control arm or crossmember, just don’t do it without lowering the engine into place to confirm a need for it. If CAREFUL you might get away without killing your dipstick tube. I haven’t run into back drive issues in a dozen cars.

IMO headers are one of the best things you can do to get a performance boost but you want to buy good set, use quality gaskets (the Remflex are really nice, Joe P turned me on to them), install carefully & thoughtfully. A new exhaust will be likely, I like an X pipe exhaust but opinions vary, mufflers to your taste, generally 2.5”, use band clamps up front so exhaust can be removed if trans ever needs removal.

If you want to get really thorough your carb may warrant some dial in to take advantage of better breathing exhaust. Then there’s ignition curve tuning, maybe a new intake, ooo, some more aggressive gears............

 

Sorry, I missed that. In any case, I completely agree with what you wrote. Proper headers are probably worth 25-30 HP over SBO manifolds, but they are not painless or plug-and-play.

 

DOH! Right you are gents. I didn't read close enough.

 

Thanks to everyone. The reason i asked this question is i used to have a 72 cutlass supreme in the late 80's. I put headers on it in the street...took only hour or so. Only had to drop starter...that i remember (cant remember about filter) and raised the front of car about 10 inches on stands. Slid right in and drove to muffler shop with open headers. Now i have bought this 72 convertible but I couldn't remember the brand i used back in the 80s. Getting old sucks.

 

I will also add it is a cutlass not a 98.

 

Jeez...

 

The best-fitting Olds headers I have ever used were made and sold by Kenne-Bell in the 1980s. Obviously that is not an option today.

 

Interesting, I wonder if they ever turn up on Ebay? There's always the Parts Wanted forum.

I wonder if this is the same company? Looks like they do late model stuff now.

http://kennebell.net/

 

Their website says "50th anniversary", so I would say it is the same. K-B was originally a supplier of Buick performance parts, then branched out to include Oldsmobile in the 1980s. They went away for a while and came back with the late model stuff.

 

I don’t know if anyone @ the present Kenne Bell has links to the 80’s but back then it was pretty much them & Joe Mondello that were specializing in Olds performance products or you could spin the roulette wheel & buy from J.C. Whitney.

 

How many check the heads on exhaust side to see if mating surface is true? Hmm I remember a guru who's first name is Joe saying this. Oldsmobile engines used no gasket from factory. Gee I don't know. I'm using hi temp RTV. For a flush fit.

 

My buddy Craig has a '70 W31 & we used Flotech headers,( the car had rusty leaky headers on it when he bought it) . The company is owned by Holley. They seemed pretty decent for the price (around $350). They're the traditional long tube design & they're ceramic coated. We put them in about 4yrs ago. They went in fairly easily, Jacked up the drivers side of the eng, the header slid right in, took off the oil filter adapter on the pass side. But there were clearance issues!! Hitting the motor mounts, a little contact on the frame & the starter shield,(we used the later large shield since it protects the starter better. I went to his house about a month ago to help him sort out some problems. He had the trans rebuilt & since it was out I told him we might as well pull the motor, detail it nicely & fix the header issues. I know you probably don't want to pull the motor but it made fixing the clearance issues a snap. Also the motor mount heat shield on the drivers side would in no way clear the header, so we had to leave it off. There was no problem with the back drive linkage.