I picked up this 1980 442 for my son. His last year in high school, figure he needs a special car.
Its in over all good condition, except the original engine doesn't run.
Have a spare drop in 350 for the car.

This is what I have to work with.
Rear end is 2.73 but do have a posi set up for it, Ratio unknown atm.
Would like a 3.08 or 3.42 in it
Complete 1973 350 with 8 heads. I have a spare of 7a's which i will port.
Block being punched 30 over, align hone mains, truing deck and heads.
Want to try to keep this under 10:1 compression
Have sealed power flattop pistons, 30 over Now looking for recommendations for rest of the heart.
Edlebrock intake #2711 or #3711
Lunati complete valve train set up with chain, also needs vaccum.
Looking at Magnum or high energy roller rockers from Comp, but like to keep original valve cover height
And a must is headers
Car has a spare air induction hood
Since engine will be out, thinking of a small stall

Thanks

 

Would you sell this car as is?

 

If you insist on flat top pistons, use the #8 heads. They just need a bowl hog under the exhaust valve to equal the 7A heads, already have a 1.625" exhaust valve. Then do the same on the intake side and add a 2" or 2.07" intake. I find #8 heads measure at 77 to 78cc. Just mill enough to get true 9 to 1, cam can stay mild and the 2.73 or 3.08 will work no problem. Then he can run regular gas and it won't ping itself to death. Just add a converter like the base Summit or Jegs TH350 converter to help it off the line.

 

Sorry not at the moment.
Just brought her home yesterday for my son, something special for his last year of high school coming up

 

Lmfao thats hilarious, we drove through Melville yesterday coming home to Manitoba.

Okay, I will compare the 7a's to the 8's to understand what needs to be done. Probably cut the heads 10?
The heads from 73, must be 2" in them already?

 

I don't think so. They had the large exhaust valves, but the intakes were of the smaller variety I believe.

 

Well, crap! I was dropping off the girls yesterday back in Brandon, Manitoba. They were home for the weekend from University, doing all our taxes. The #8 heads have 1.875" intake valves.

 

Oh good old B Town!!! Be hitting up PA for some new toys!!!!lol

 

Where in Manitoba are you from? I grew up in Two Creeks, Manitoba. My Wife, Oak Lake, Manitoba.

 

Very nice Graduation gift Kyle, I'm sure your son will be happy to own a Olds. Don't spoil him too much haha.
I'm following along here!

Put-er-ther!

Eric

 

Ste Rose MB

 

Oh yes, he's super excited. Was talking with Rocket Racing today, emailing me specs and quote for parts. Now to get the engine on the stand and tear it down, send the block and heads for machining.

 

Now to find a Holley Intake to match these covers.

 

Holley doesn’t make an appropriate intake for your build. The only one they ever made was thier Street Doninator. An Edelbrock RPM is a much better intake.
Let me know what parts you’re looking for, I may be able to help there as well.

 

Hey Mark,
I found a used Holley intake.The Holley has to much rise compared to the RPM?

 

Looking at some cams,

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 272/276
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 217/221
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .485/.485
• LSA/ICL: 110/104
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: Idle-5500

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/286
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 221/230
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .485/.485
• LSA/ICL: 112/106
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1000-6400

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 256/262
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/219
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .485/.499
• LSA/ICL: 112/108
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1000-5300

I like the middle cam, but RR said to big of a cam for a 350. Recommended the 3rd cam.
The first cam was recommended by Lunati.
Whats your thoughts Mark?

 

The Holley is a single plane, the RPM is a dual plane, much better for your application.

 

Well the heart of Kelvin's 442 is on the stand.
Dropping weight tomorrow. Pulling out the 7a's and removing valves/springs. Sending them in Thursday for magnafluxing.

 

Do the same with the #8 heads as well. You will see the "lip" under the exhaust valve that a grinder or bowl hog cutter needs to remove. You will need a big cam if you use those 7a heads with flat top pistons.

 

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 272/276
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 217/221
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .485/.485
• LSA/ICL: 110/104
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: Idle-5500

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/286
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 221/230
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .485/.485
• LSA/ICL: 112/106
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1000-6400

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 256/262
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/219
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .485/.499
• LSA/ICL: 112/108
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1000-5300

I like the middle cam, but RR said to big of a cam for a 350. Recommended the 3rd cam.
The first cam was recommended by Lunati.

 

I had a really long winded post, but theres the short of it.

Build the engine first. When you know what gears you have, you know for what compression you ended up, hows the heads, intake, exhaust.. Rear gears, usage.. Then choose the cam. Forgot it until that. That provides the most satisfying result.

 

Right now she has 2.73 in the car, them too high. leaning hard to 3.42.
Keeping the motor under 10:1,this is my sons car.Either 87 or 91 is most common here. So this is where the toss up with heads are.
7a's have 64CC/8's have 79CC.
So does the 7a's bring me over 10:1,if so then 8's are needed. Just mill the 8's to bring up compression.

 

Uncutted 7A's are close to 68cc. Mine were too. Add few valve jobs.. Just forgot the cam for now, even if its the most tempting single piece to get. Sorry.

Cutlassefi usually recommends Erson TQ40 as off-the-self cam, if you insist to get the last part first.

 

I messaged Cutlassefi to see.
Hoping for all parts at first. lol

 

Good call on Cutlassefi, Mark Remmel. Remember more stall is a necessity with more compression and cam. I made a huge difference, even with 2.56 and 2.78 gears.

 

Thinking about an 1800 or so

 

FYI, I have the equivalent of the first cam (217/221) in my 350, and I have a 2500 RPM converter that seems to match well with it.

I completely agree with this:

 

From I can find online and the measurements I have off the engine to figure compression ratio
4.06 piston
3.38 stroke
4.21 gasket
.021 thickness
79 #8
9.55:1 ratio
If I add .04 to piston to allow for rings becomes 4.10,
9.72:1 ratio

I go with the #7a's with 64cc
11.42:1/11.63:1

Is my math wrong?

 

Yes. The bore will be 4.087" at .030" over, 3.385" stroke. Expect the pistons. 025" below deck, .041" Felpro head gasket with a 4.230" gasket bore. Use this calculator. https://uempistons.com/p-27-compress...alculator.html As I said put in 77 or 78cc with the #8 heads.

 

untouched 7's or 7A's with flat tops will be under 10 to 1. personally if you are going through the trouble of boring it and running that piston may as well go in the 9.6 to 9.7 to 1 compression area. Polish the chambers to add chamber volume and eliminate possible hot spots. I ran a pretty big lunati voodoo (60804) with 9.96 to 1 compression to be exact and I still had just enough vacuum for power brakes ( drum/drum) . I ran the RPM intake #6 heads with 2.07 in. 1.63 ex. valves and just bowl work. One notch smaller on the same cam line would be almost perfect for a milder engine. I did a lot of racing with mine the engine was pretty bare bones but it also did lots of street duty. 2 to 3k per driving season.

I ran a generic 2800 stall and a 3.73 then 3.90 but it will probably work well with a 3.42 . the 2800 stall was about as loose as most typical sunday cruisers would want. I eventually went 3500 stall.

 

Remember our gas price is horrid right now and will only get worse, thanks Trudeau. I would not go above 9.6 to 1 with 91, best we have here. Especially with a young kid driving, they don't care. Around 9 to 1 will run no problem if 87 is put in by a young kid not paying attention. My daughter's have wrecked a few of my vehicles.

 

The block is getting the 9's done to her. Punched, align hone, and true the deck.
.025 below deck will change

 

Yes I have lots of reading to do. The home porting thread is extensive. lol
Port and polish the chambers, match intake. Leaning towards the 2" valves, recommendations?
Mark said stay with RPM intake, so I will. Before I port, should I have the new guides installed?
For ***** and giggles, I have a brand new set of Ka's. Does this open up a can of worms?
I am stuck on a Lunati cam, 3 choices I have.
Thanks
The 1800 stall I am thinking, wont be enough?

 

Yeah we wont go there, makes my blood boil.
I do have the means of making my own fuel tho. lol

 

I wouldn't go too crazy on the porting. I would focus on good valves (ferrea) was my choice. And the bowl work. Filling the risers and welding the divider. My #6 heads had just big valves and Bowl work. The particular combo i mention made appx about 370 ish HP. The heads that where ported on the porting thread. Are currently on my 355. That whole thread started as Dave (67cutlassfreak) started to work on my heads. I did the body work to his 67 cutlass.

 

Day 2 of stripping the block.





The little man even came out to join in pulling pistons.

 

Great memories right there.

 

Going for a shower tomorrow, then a bath. Hope Monday she gone to Winnipeg for machining
Are all middle main bearing different than the other 3?
Is there any oil ways I should open up with a die grinder besides on the rear main cap?

 

Yes I recall those are your heads when he posted the thread.
Yes I dont plan on going hard on porting. Just clean them up, open up the lungs to help her breathe.
I will look those valves up. Regular valve job should be suffice?
Can 1 melt a scrap head and use that to fill the riser, or will take too much heat to melt?

Thanks