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Yes, several years ago Flowkooler changed from a round disc riveted onto the impeller to a new style that is a machined impeller/disc assembly. Basically the modern equivalent of the 50+ year old factory Olds closed style impeller.
I noticed no difference on my 403 but mine is an older one with the rivet on plate on a GMB aluminum pump. I will buy a new one with CNC impeller for the 403 stroker. I have been using a 7 pound rad cap on my older cars. With a 16 pound cap or even a 13 pound cap, I get seepage either at the seems at my recored at one point rad or usually around the dam thermostat housing. Also never use the cheap chrome thermostat housing, they always leak. Either stock or RobMc billet is the way to go.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; May 18, 2019 at 05:33 AM.
So what is made the difference to make it so called hiflow?
The closed impeller is more efficient so in theory it moves more water, but other than that I don't know.
Just some info: I currently have a parts store reman water pump with the stamped steel, open impeller and it cools well enough, even in the Phoenix summer temps.
Okay thanks.
Any type of upgrades for pulleys and bracket systems that dont cost an arm and leg?
CVF Racing is probably the best deal. https://www.cvfracing.com/oldsmobile...ll-water-pump/ They look similar to the pulleys I am running on my 70S. You need the 3 groove crank pulley for A/C. https://www.cvfracing.com/oldsmobile...aft-pulley-3v/ There are billet pulleys from Ramair Restorations and Rocket Racing. https://www.ramairrestoration.com/ps...t-w-ps-ac.html
Also March has expensive serpentine setups and regular V belt pulleys. Don't buy the underdrive pulleys from Ebay, Olds vendors or anywhere with the super tiny crank pulley. They under charge and under cool your motor. There is brackets available to run a sbc serpentine setup but they run $300 Canadian plus you still need all the truck accessories and a 4.3 V6 diesel rear wheel drive reverse rotation water pump and SBF crank pulley. I had everything but the alternator and the adapter brackets, soon going on my 88 Cutlass.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; May 20, 2019 at 05:32 AM.
Now I have a bit of a pickle. Filled my heat risers with aluminium, but I have craters in each 1. I should of kept some old valves and plugged the chamber while I filled it. So now do I drill some holes and add more aluminum to keep the fill from rattling?
How bad are the craters, is there still a good amount of material blocking the heat? How does the intake side look? I am sure 6 AN with he adequate for your power level.
The intakes are plugged well, just them pockets I am concerned about. Them pulses that Mark was talking about.
Not sure its a good idea to use a torch inside the head to try to remelt the aluminium
Yes thank you. Yeah BF's, too many have them. Wanted something different, and I think they look better.
Just waiting on Summit to ship my next order, waiting on spark plug wires then will ship the order.
They were to be in yesterday but I guess not.
Gives me some extra time to buy more parts and come with this shipment.
Looking at an oil pump, think I will stay with a stock pump not a HV. And fuel pump, dont think I need the 3 line since the canister I think will be gone using the new intake. Not sure what size of head gaskets, think I will let the machine shop get them. Once they measure chamber and deck height, they can figure thickness I need for 9.5 to 1
Just fwiw. I just installed my flow kooler water pump. Nice piece BUT ! Check the pump to timing tab clearance. I didnt do a dry fit as i have never had an issue with any water pump and it was hitting the timing tab fought it for a few before i realized WTF was going on lol. Minor thing but im annoyed when i have to grind new parts
Just fwiw. I just installed my flow kooler water pump. Nice piece BUT ! Check the pump to timing tab clearance. I didnt do a dry fit as i have never had an issue with any water pump and it was hitting the timing tab fought it for a few before i realized WTF was going on lol. Minor thing but im annoyed when i have to grind new parts
Yes. I will take pictures tonight. Wrapping a slew of upgrades i just did tonight. New front shocks adjustable rear shocks, 650 hp capable driveshaft, new 150 amp alternator and the water pump. Hitting the drag strip in 2 weeks. But yes the steel timing tab in my case.
After trying to fix the pockets I had in the chambers, no luck what I did. So got peed off and removed the plugs. That was sum botch to do!!!!! But got them removed and remelted the aluminum and repoured.
This time I put valves in so would hold more aluminum, extra work to port but looks good Now relaxing having a soda and smoking my pipe after this success!!!!
Excellent, looks really good. Now the shop can use a bowl hog, transition that cut into the port and obviously cut for the bigger intake valve along with a multi angle valve job, any worn guides replaced, along with new springs. I have sets of heads where the guides were cut for positive seals. They are a better seal than the factory umbrella. Also the intake face of the heads or your Performer RPM intake may need cut to fit. Hopefully they 0 deck the block and a clean up mill is all that will be needed for 9.5 to 1.
Thanks. One more to go and get all this stuff off to Winnipeg.
Not sure if I will bother with multi cut on the valves with Kelvin's car. To me if you are doing 1 guide, may as well do them all. That what I think
Deck is brought to .005, have forgiveness there a bit. If need, cut the heads to make that ratio.
That sounds good, it will only need a clean up on the heads. I meant on seats, back cutting valves can be beneficial but depends on the valves and heads it is being done to.
No the multiple angle valve job is standard stuff for performance heads. My #6 just had a normal valve job with the bowl hog cutter in the bowl, bought them that way $400 completely rebuilt. I believe it is supposed to help low lift flow over a regular single seat angle cut.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; May 29, 2019 at 06:40 AM.
So guys. The parts store high flow water pump vs the flowkooler was no match. The flowkooler worked damn near as describe. Car is not running under 190 on a typical 70 degree day . and it takes much longer to warm up whicj before i would hit 160 very soon. So it's very much worth the money just for what its worth.
So found a 3 core rad on summit, OEM looking and the size I need.
Now what about rad caps? The 1 on the car is 15lb, do I stay the same?
They have 13, 15 and 16 lb caps. Thinking of the 13 lb cap, that work?
Thanks
Check the specs on the radiator. Verify that the number of rows, number of tubes, and number of cooling fins per inch is the same as or more than what you currently have. I found out years ago that many replacement radiators had fewer tubes per row and fewer fins per inch than the factory radiator, so with a "new" radiator the engine ran hotter than before.
As for the cap, I'd say stay the same, but realistically any of them should work. The higher pressure increases the boiling point a bit, but unless there's a cooling deficiency the lower pressure cap should work fine.
Check the specs on the radiator. Verify that the number of rows, number of tubes, and number of cooling fins per inch is the same as or more than what you currently have. I found out years ago that many replacement radiators had fewer tubes per row and fewer fins per inch than the factory radiator, so with a "new" radiator the engine ran hotter than before.
As for the cap, I'd say stay the same, but realistically any of them should work. The higher pressure increases the boiling point a bit, but unless there's a cooling deficiency the lower pressure cap should work fine.
From what I believe, the 1 I have now is only a 2 core. So with a 3 core, should be better. But will triple check triple check again. lol
And now, the great spark plug debate, what to go with? AC,Accel,NGK? Nickel and or copper are the next best things to conduct electricity.
From what I believe, the 1 I have now is only a 2 core. So with a 3 core, should be better.
I recall someone posting years ago that their new 3 core radiator didn't cool as well as the original 2 row due to fewer tubes and fins. So be sure to check the specs.
The summit brand (northern radiator) units work very well. I had one for many years. I dropped it and split tank from the core. Bought q used Griffin radiator. Works just as good.
[QUOTE=Kyle's77cutlass;1176328)
And now, the great spark plug debate, what to go with? AC,Accel,NGK? Nickel and or copper are the next best things to conduct electricity.[/QUOTE]
NGK XR5’s.
