Yes it will need to be aluminum but the melting point is what you are after. you need it to be high enough to not melt with exhaust gas heat.

 

Okay, thanks for the reply.
So another question. Since a new engine build with a bit of kick to it, I dont think I should be using the old harmonic balancer.
See there is alot of choices out there
Thanks once again

 

Been a few days since an update. Built me a foundry, so now I can melt my aluminum and fill the heat risers and get these heads sent off for machining.
Think I am opting out on welding the divider, will have the exhaust side machined down.
Cam showed up a few days ago, so pumped about that. Valves and lifters on the way.
Block was hot tanked and pressure tested, all passed so thats good.
They started align honing,sizing the rods,new cap and rod bolts. I presume they will have it punched and deck trued this week.

Any ways, cheers boys

 

Sounds awesome. You will like that your son can put 87 in by accident and the motor won't ping itself to death. Are you going with the 3.08 gears? I think they are best for a cruiser.

 

Here is the cam.
Not sure if 3.08 will go well.
Richmond used to make 3.23 for carrier 2, but can get hands on 3.42.
Still up in air atm

 

Yah that is a pretty big cam. Hopefully your converter stalls where it is supposed to. My 9 to 1 350 with a 2200 to 2500 stall, flashed at 2300 rpm with 2.78 gears would spin the tire for a quarter of a block. Remember with stock tire height, 2500 rpm at 60 and close to 2900 rpm at 70 with 3.08 gears. With 3.42, 2750 rpm at 60 mph and 3200 rpm at 70 mph, depends what you can live with. Make sure you get a big aluminum radiator, a 2 core with 1" tubes minimum or a 4 core. The Autocity rad aluminum 2 cores with 1 1/8" tubes or the Cold Case aluminium 2 cores with 1 1/4" tubes are very good choices. Also a 7 blade with heavy duty clutch fan and shroud or a high output dual electric fan. The G body is limited to a narrower rad without modifications compared to an A body. I had many issues cooling my 403 in my 88, including a bad Mr Gasket thermostat and underdrive pulleys. The 3 core Champion rad was just passable at 195 to 210 with a 160 high flow thermostat. The 350 isn't as hard to cool but it will be turning some rpms on the highway.

 

I can never understand the cam language. Been reading online to understand, but dont really get it.
I will put a 2500 stall or should be a bit higher yet?Just placed and order fir tires, 205/70/14 what's on the car but went with 225/70/14. So a bit taller tire.
With 3.42, think the rpm's be that high? I had an old 77 GMC with 350 and 3.73 and the rpm's were that.

 

This cam is fine for 9.5:1 or better, the right converter and a gear in the low to mid 3’s.
I’ve mentioned many times that the exhaust lobe is a factor as well in where the power will come in.
If you look at the cam card closely it will give you the info you need to determine rpm range etc.

 

Low to mid 3's? Low as in like 3.73?
These little things I need to hash out, placing my last major order here very soon. Intake, headers, converter and gearing. Need to get this together soon.

 

Running at higher rpms will depend more on the intake, carb, and headwork. The lsa and lobe combination will allow it to make power in the lower ranges.

 

Well it's the performer rpm intake, carb am leaning to the BD. Just havent got a price yet. Lol And heads have the mild port and polish to em.
Thinking will shave them 10 and instead of welding the center port, I will mill the exhaust down .125 or so to get the center divider flush.
Didn't get to filling the heat risers yet, this weekend I will. Hope valve and lifters are in so I can send all to the shop next week.

 

The exhaust face if the head? If you take an 1/8" off the face of the head you're going to end up with header fitment issues.

 

Yes the exhaust face. That 1/8" will make that much of a difference?
There was a couple other threads on here I stumbled upon talking about cutting the face, never mentioned headers having issues. Only if mounting the manifolds back on.
I dont have the headers yet to see, have a spare 350 that I can match them too.

 

Actually I forgot the Olds Gmail calculator has a lock up converter built in. With the taller tires without a lock up converter 2900 rpm at 60 mph and 3300 rpm at 70 mph with 3.42 gears. With 3.08 gears, 2650 at 60 mph and 3000 rpm at 70 mph.

 

Is this bad boy a lock up?

 

Nope. Just to clarify; buying lock-up converter doesnt convert your transmission to lock-up one ( TH350C), it Still misses the circuitry to lock-it up.
You might have known this, but just so noone gets confused.

 

Inline is right. In 1981 GM changed the pump and added a lock up circuit to the TH350. It uses a different, more expensive converter than the regular TH350. I wish GM would have used the same converter as the TH2004R and early 700R4, they can be found cheaper. I have one in my 70S on purpose after my daughter cooked the 2004R, which was awesome. I picked it up used and I cannot get the lock up to work, new solenoid and bypassing the wiring inside. It is a stock sucky 1600 rpm converter, makes my car a dog. I had an eye on a 2025 stall at RA for $200 Canadian plus, shipping, they just sold the last one. The cheapest I can find is a 2200 to 2800 Boss Hog for $484 Canadian with free shipping through Amazon Canada. I would prefer the Hughes 2500 stall lock up but that is another $100 more. I can get another TH350C from the wrecker's, a spare isn't a bad idea anyways. I only run 2450 at 60 mph with 225/70R14 tires and 2.78 gears but 2150 sounds much more appealing to me and put my 70 mph rpm at same as 60 mph without lock up. You are supposed to have a 2400 stall factory and that cam will need it. My 214/214 cam worked well with a 2300 stall. Also make sure they mill those heads some and 0 deck the block to get above 9 to 1. Do you know what style of posi came stock in the 442? The Gov bomb came in a lot of 7.5". I assume it is an Eaton style with clutches. Do those not have small spider gears that can explode? Used 3.23 gears and Torsen worm gear posi can be found in 98 to 02 Camaro and Firebirds. They fit the 7.5 rears, are stronger, usually are affordable used. The only catch is they use 28 spline vs our factory 26 spline axles.

 

I asked on other sites that are associated with the 80 and up, every 1 said they do not have 2400 stall.
The converter I posted, is a good stall for my install?
I am presuming my block is finished,or close to. I told them to true the deck, they are waiting on my heads now. Going to cut the heads 10.
The 73 had 8.5 to 1 compression I was reading with dished pistons and the 8's I have. So with flat tops, deck trued and the 8's milled 10, should be well into 9 to 1.
Not a clue what company but I have a pic of the carrier

 

 

And these bad boys showed up yesterday

 

I never noticed it was a roller cam, sweet. You got the cam from Cutlassefi? The Hughes is a quality torque converter BUT rates their stall at 500 hp. So a reasonably mild 350 will stall less, maybe around 2200 rpm. I believe one member with 240 whp and 320 wtq said his stalled around that number.

 

Yes major guts are from Mark. He has given me the information for the build. Few more things to come in.

 

So I should look for a different stall?

 

Maybe, what is the powerband of that cam? Contact Fun71 on here, he is also using that converter with a 217/221 duration cam and 3.23 gears.

 

Okay. My cam looks a bit bigger than his

 

Not a clue, all I know it will smoke tires!!!!

 

Peak tq should be around 4000 or so.

 

Where does the powerband come on? My 214/214 cam does not come on strong at 1600 rpm, current stall but loved 2300 rpm stall. You want the stall around where the torque starts coming on. Of course gearing also effects this. For a car that sees a lot of highway time, everything on the Prairie's that gets driven does, you want an efficient converter. A quality converter will slip less at highway speed. Too loose or a cheap converter will slip and add RPM's and heat at highway speeds.

 

Just heard from Fun71, loves the converter. So be going with that

 

My suggestion, go with that converter and a 3.08 gear. Also remember to tell the machine shop those Speedpro forged pistons need .004" minimum clearance. The clearance included in the instructions is way too tight.

 

Will try that and see how goes. And will call them tomorrow and see. Hope they dont have it back together. Ugh!!!

 

Sorry, we should have mentioned that. There have been many SBO and BBO with issues, mostly overheating because of it.

 

Yep figured it was the issue with over heating.
Just called them, can still do .004
Have the block aligned honed and rods done.

 

Ordered intake, headers, rockers and guide plates.
Is their a need to have a fuel pressure gauge?
What is a good set of plug wires?

Thanks

 

And looking at a high flow water pump. See only a few brands. Flow Kooler,Milodon, and Tuff Stuff.
Any good?

 

The Flowkooler has an aluminum closed impeller, probably the best one. I really like the Accel 8.8 25 ohm per foot race wires, had mine for years, still look good. The basic Summit wires are good if you want cheaper. A furl gauge is nice but a good pump like the Carter Muscle car pump and 3/8" inline fuel filter should be sufficient.

 

Thanks, I will go with the flowkooler pump. Got a hold of my cousin Jim, has a buddy that builds radiators. Going to find out what a 4 core rad will cost to be built.
Found these on summit,
Davis Unified Ignition LiveWires C9068BKP
Look cool but have 150 ohm per foot. 8mm but are 10 mm cause of the sleeve. Seen a video on youtube about them

 

Those wires look nice. I know a guy who has those on a 403 and likes them.

 

I'm about to buy a flow kooler pump. My stock autozone HD unit isnt enough for thr new engine lol. Runs about 20 degrees hotter than it should for the weather. About 190 on a 80 degree day. I know it's not 210 but I would like 170 180 on a day like that weather wise. Those wires look awesome BTW

 

Oh sweet, reading the flow kooler work well. The impeller has a different design to help move alot more coolant. Claim to drop it 20 degree's. To me, would need a bigger rad to help cool it down with this pump.
Now with that said, you need a different rad cap?

Yes them wires look awesome, placing another order today from summit