Good question. Common type bolts should not have a tapper. If it's a special bolt with a tapper it should be assembled as the manufacturer intended.

 

Define "common bolt type". Generally speaking, material that is to be threaded has a "taper" on the end before threading. For proper terminology, the word "taper" should be changed to "champfer". Certain trades, including carpenters will call it a "bevel".

The champfer does a couple things..... 1. It makes the tooling that creates the threads (thread cutting or thread rolling) smoothly and concentric to the material. 2. It makes engagement of fasteners easier and less likely to get them cross threaded. 3. The "first thread" will have full strength.

 

I’ve posted time slips on this car in this thread but they were removed by admins. I’m posting again as an update. This is a street car, it’s driven over an hour to the track.

not a light weight potato chip, full interior, power windows, power brakes, it was an A/C but the compressor is gone.

I did the iron heads on it and helped out the short block refresh. Factory rods and pistons have been in it since the mid 90’s. Hyd flat tappet.

Mission accomplished today….10.95@123
Previous best was an 11.22@122

we think it’s still got more in it. Maybe a 10.80? He’s staying with the 4:10’s and tall tire

 

Dale that is truly impressive.
What is the key to making the factory rod and piston live in a full weight street strip car?

 

CANADIANOLDS
Nice going. N crank? with main straps?

 

Mark would you mind posting some pictures of your Halo? We have a good Halo thread going it would be nice to see your halo represented with specifications.

WR1970 wrote:
You can't read or use comprehension! That thread wasn't about Halo's .Just a bunch of driveling misfit ******** that can't post correctly . None of them have a engine build in the Racing engine build forum accept maybe Flemming. Talking about that build forum ! Where the hell is your racing engine build in the racing engine build forum?

Bernhard wrote:
The thread changed direction like most performance threads do.
I don't have a race engine I do have a 400 G with the typical performance modifications camshaft, headers,intake,ignition.
The engine is in my 69 442 post stick bench seat car, I posted pictures of the car a long time ago.
I moved your questing as not to side track Marks build thread.

 

Very nice! Good looking car. Dale what was the head flow?

 

its not a factory piston. It’s an old forged heavy venolia flat top with bushed factory rods. ARP bolts , resized, that’s it.

infact, the same rings have been in and out of it a few times.

it’s set up very very loose..runs stone cold in traffic. RPM, are kept low…it’s all TQ with this car. It’s actually quite a bit faster now with 4:10’s and tighter converter than it was with 4:56’s and a loose 9”

 

Dont know…never had them on my bench. I would guess in the 265 range? Stock 2.07” intake.

it’s all bowl and guide work…nothing upstream.

 

Very nice! Stick or auto?

 

400T

Your car makes the same power as this

 

Bernhard wrote:
Thanks for the reply Dale.
What is the shift rpm and finish line rpm?

 

LMFAO I know. I suck.

 

Hahaha, it’s not your driving skills.

 

You probably had the biggest change from the gear swap. With a heavy rotating assembly the engine won't accelerate fast enough to take advantage of the gear. Due to the recent supply issues I could not get the slick I normally use (29.2 tall). I put a set of 27.8 tall on. The car runs a few hundredths slower ET. The worse part was the additional torque kept the front end up before the first gear change causing it to spin. Even though I hade more available torque the engine did not have the HP to accelerate, so no ET improvement even after adjustment of the rear shocks. A new set of 29.2 should arrive tomorrow.

 

I hesitate to talk about what I'm into because I really don't need to get covered in ****, but..
I have an old btr 495 shortblock, full main girdle, factory steel crank, already 0.030" on the mains, cp bullet pistons, rocket racing heads. 10.7:1.
I finally got to the track this weekend for a tnt, only 2 runs (busy and then rain out). I was hoping for a high 10, but got a 11.16 @120.8. I'm not that mad, lean stumble I need to work on and a 1.65 60'. Cam I'm sure is a little small, .242, .248, .595, .597 as it was a hydraulic roller and now a solid roller (long story, you know if you know!).
Anyways, I've heard, this crank is not a great idea if you're making any power as it "moves around a lot".
If I wanted to make a next step, I'm guessing I should get a better crank. Maybe the billet stroker 2.20" pin from RR? That way I don't have to replace the entire rotating assembly.
Interested in thoughts..

 

Without the bog (tuned), and with better weather conditions you might well have been in the 10s. Old or new slicks, and suspension and torque convertors also may need tweaking.

 

Slicks are 28 10.5 m/t 3 yrs with few passes.
Prob a long way for the tune. I just bought a 1050 qf proform main body and swapped my 850 qf parts over. I need a logger of some sort for my wideband. By the time I can stare at it, I'm in third.
Rear suspension is horrible, hoping to do that this winter, bone stock shocks, springs, bushings, sway bar etc, not even an air bag.
Converter is new, anti balloon plate, made by J and K (local). I get approx 4-5% slip using on line calculator- I think.. not sure how accurate at is if I'm low tire pressure (13-15psi). 120.8 m/hr, 5600 rpm, 3.73, 28 10.5 15 m/t 88 circumference. Also don't see that as being accurate as at the stripe and 55-5600 it's right out of breath so can't be a lot of load there..
The converter I wanted was 12-1500 plus ship, duty to Canada, turns into 65million dollars in canukistan.
At this point my goal is to keep it all steel, n/a and a consistant 10.5 car.

 

I was behind him when he was making that pass. It left damn hard, I knew it would be a good one! congrats, he was pumped to say the least

 

3 year old slicks and hopping off the line...yikes. Yep, there might be several tenths just in getting a good bite with the suspension working well, which will help even old tires work a lot better. Data loggers and wideband O2 sensors can be super helpers in setting up the tune and suspension. Especially if you are close to some vacant concrete to do some quick 0-30 and or 0-60s testing of the changes on it. No point of going faster or further until you max those out of the hole. I would keep those old tires on, for that testing.

 

You'll get there.

 

How long have you been running that girdle just the way it sits in the picture ?

 

I’m guessing never, it’s placed on there with no rail bolts by the looks of it. Pic is from a couple of years ago when I first bought the parts

 

Dale, congrads on the results. That is EXACTLY the way I would my 1970 convert to run! Just doing up the Speedmaster heads and going with solid roller. 11.20 is the goal, BUT quicker is always better.

John

 

Chuck, you’ll be deep in the 10’s once it’s sorted out. 121mph is telling you that if it can run that MPH first time out.

Crank should be ok, cam isn’t that mild considering the heads should flow around 300? It’s got good lift.

a bigger cam may hurt low end TQ , and with 3:73’s , hurt ET

still another month of track time to get your 10. This is the best time of the year for conditions

 

OK-I noticed cutlasEFI built a 555 HP small block on another thread on this forum, It takes 493 crankshaft HP to run 117 @ 4000 pounds, so port match your heads and build your engine the way Mark built his and you should meet your goals and have 50 HP to spare. The math:

1320/117=11.28

Heres some more Math:

121.5 MPH over 1320 @ 4000 pounds = 555 HP
1320/121.5 = 10.86

Who ever thought it could be that easy, copy the EFI build and just run 10.8s instead of 11.20s.

 

I think the carb is still jetted a little lean with 81 primary and 87 secondary (compared to what is listed for any of the 1050's or 950's. Although I am seeing around 12.5 -13 on the wideband on the top end. So I may go up a couple front and rear and hopefully pick up a couple mph, see what happens.
I thought my cam was a little "extra small" now that it's solid lifters, that's good if not too small then.
At 5600rpm, at the stripe, it's out of breath, I mean done! Because of that, I was considering putting my 3.55's back in before next trip. Likely have the 3.73 back in for next year but tighten up the converter a little. Because of only a couple of runs, I didn't get a good read on my stall, (too busy having fun) much different flash on the track with a little traction compared to any snort I can go on around my house.
I'd like to put my carb spacer on, but I don't have the hood clearance.

 

I would check the spark plugs to see if they looked rich or lean, and on the bog off the line I would look at the carbs accelerator pump nozzle system to make sure it is adjusted right and working and maybe up the nozzle size. You also need to keep an eye on your fuel pressures. Like any other electronic devise the O2 meter may not be accurate on what your real air fuel really is..

 

Mark, mine probably won't ET well as it need to be a 100% easy driver for my wife to take it. So will do urethane bushings, boxed arms, springs and a respectable eriding shock. So figuring making north of 575 with ported speedmasters, torker intake, solid roller, Sniper EFI and will lose a tenth to tenth and a half for the 700r4.Going to start with 3200 converter and 3.42 and doubt the car will get a slick, so just Nitto 555r2 325/50r15s. This why I say the goal is only 11.20 with this, but drive anywhere and highway for days if needed.

 

can you post your slip ?

are at zero lash hot?

 

Feel Stupid, I don't remember re checking lash hot, I set to 0.003-4" cold. I will get it warm and recheck after work. I know I had it a little tighter in the spring and the cold starts were UGLY.
Don't look at the r/t, compared to the last car I had at the track, I am likely to red light and I just want time slips for now.
I've also attached my cam card, exh lift is a little lower. As I said this cam was intended for hydraulic roller until a lifter tried to go bluetooth on me. Now it's solid. It is degreed to within 1deg
Thanks for the advise guys.

 

Bill said 0 cold. Frank wasn't real happy with the 108 CL and was concerned about cylinder pressure, so he told me he set it at 008. When I checked it, I got 013. Taking both their specs into consideration, I arrived at 004, cold. It really is on the edge of pump gas with an occasional run on or rattle of spark knock. I mitigate the knock by keeping the rpm up and not lugging it down. The run on is so infrequent that it doesn't warrant leaning out the idle screws.

 

I meant to say, are you near zero lash hot? Which you are.

it’s a pain but best way is to keep closing up the hot lash until it tells you you’ve gone to far.

 

In order to get the most lift (and duration) I assume.
As far as head flow, intake is 332 at .600 and 303 at .500. exh 250 at .600 and .237 at .500

 

lash hot is 0.012-0.013", idled it up to 190f
I just set one to 0.008" hot, I'll let it sit until I get home from work tomorrow and see what it is cold, just for the heck of it

 

yes…on the duration/lift

that’s great flow…that little cam won’t act so little with ports like that .

im not saying you can’t make more power with more cam…you can definitely be in the 10’s with engine as is

 

I'm wondering how it's done at 5600.

 

can you post your best slip from the DW?

 

You might want to check out https://www.globalwest.net/ instead urethane bushings. I was never that impressed with urethane bushings they did not allow the suspension to move freely. I found that they bound up worse than than factory rubber bushing .

 

🤣🤣🤣🤣 Sure

I had to turn it in.
Here you see the "1995 UDRA Champion" in this stupid *** kit car playing starting line games during time trials. I hope he relived all his former glory. He went 47, so had to go again, while I packed up and hit the road. 2:50:20