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🤣🤣🤣🤣 Sure
I had to turn it in.
Here you see the "1995 UDRA Champion" in this stupid *** kit car playing starting line games during time trials. I hope he relived all his former glory. He went 47, so had to go again, while I packed up and hit the road. 2:50:20 https://youtu.be/5WOQC_e2TQE
I haven’t seen a hand written time slip since 1975. 😁. Was it a flag down start?
I haven’t seen a hand written time slip since 1975. 😁. Was it a flag down start?
🤣 No, you have to turn whichever run slip from the day in to get the route and checkpoints to the next track. With no cage, I'm limited to 11.50 and I was happy with the 11.59, so that's a one and done for me, onto the next track. The d-bag in the kit car was in the same class, so he had to go again because 11.47 was too quick.
Went back this weekend, still leaving soft, still need to work out my hesitation. Pulled the plugs after a run, could go richer. Stock rear suspension, nothing modified or added, can see how soft that right rear spring is. This was at 121 and a 1.69 60’. I think and hope there’s more in it
Went back this weekend, still leaving soft, still need to work out my hesitation. Pulled the plugs after a run, could go richer. Stock rear suspension, nothing modified or added, can see how soft that right rear spring is. This was at 121 and a 1.69 60’. I think and hope there’s more in it
Went back this weekend, still leaving soft, still need to work out my hesitation. Pulled the plugs after a run, could go richer. Stock rear suspension, nothing modified or added, can see how soft that right rear spring is. This was at 121 and a 1.69 60’. I think and hope there’s more in it.
I looked at your video and that hesitation is killing your 60ft. I noticed a big puff smoke right as you let off the brakes. Your jetting is probably ok as indicated by your MPH. You need to look at your accelerator pump and MAB. As a note, smoke doesn't always indicate rich. If you are way lean it will do that. Typically rich will just make the car lazy but lean will cause it to hesitate.
I've got 40 squirters, and am up in the 2nd hole on pink pump cams in the Brawler 950. I think the jets are 82/89 per my notes. Timing is locked at 34.
If you have hesitation, it's probably lean; throw some fuel at it. I honestly couldn't believe how well mine responded to more fuel.
Last edited by fleming442; Oct 27, 2022 at 01:46 PM.
I looked at your video and that hesitation is killing your 60ft. I noticed a big puff smoke right as you let off the brakes. Your jetting is probably ok as indicated by your MPH. You need to look at your accelerator pump and MAB. As a note, smoke doesn't always indicate rich. If you are way lean it will do that. Typically rich will just make the car lazy but lean will cause it to hesitate.
I notice the smoke as well according to my wideband, it's going lean. One pass, I mashed it off the line and flat out stalled! At the moment, 35 squirters front and rear, color of cams.. not in front of me, I will find out. I'm not sure how to find out the cc of front and rear accel pump (what ever came the 850 qf initially). Air bleeds are 71 and 33.. if memory serves. Thanks for the reply!
I believe your current main body has a 1.40 venturi so the air bleeds seem right. Your 35 squirter is a bit on the light side. I would try 37's, orange cam, #2 screw position. Make sure you have no slack in the pump arm. If you need to go beyond 40's you might need 50cc pump to maintain correct duration.
This time 11.04, still no 10's.
Pretty much same mph after 2 jet changes richer. I'm up to 86 primary and 93 secondary and plugs definately DO NOT look rich, could say a bit lean. I find this a little strange because today, when I was able to stare at the wideband, it was showing 11-11.5. at 55-6000 rpm. Could this be appearing a little rich on the wideband at high rpm because the high speed bleeds are too small? Bleeds are 33 and 71
Looking at the plugs, I'm going to richen the jets again. Although proform lists this main body 87 prim and 91 sec, I'm not far off of that.
I drilled out both squirters to 0.038" (that's the largest jewelers bit I have). Put new diaphrams and checks in yesterday, and rechecked pump lever adjustments. I think the lean hesitation is better. Would smaller idle air bleeds help that?
Dale, I tried hard to watch the tach to see where exactly where the convertor flashes, I'd have to say 28-2900.
Don't let the consistancy fool you, total fluke, was making changes in between
Last edited by chuck_royle; Oct 29, 2022 at 07:31 PM.
If you are running pump gas E10 or E15 it's going to be hard to read the plugs for small jetting changes. Read the plugs for issues like detonation and heat range. I would not jet up. If you add fuel and see no change in performance your heading in the wrong direction. Changing air bleeds is more for fine tunning. Changing the IAB (idle) affects idle and part throttle (transition slot). You MAB (main well) will change sensitivity of the main circuit. Putting a smaller bleed in will make it more sensitive. It will allow flow from the main circuit sooner and richen the circuit. The change isn't always linear and should be done last for fine tunning. Small changes can make large differences there. I would work on the accelerator circuit first. What was your 60's. What pump cams do you have? What is the cams position?
Found a couple of issues. Pump cam position as you guys mentioned, both front and rear were at position one, I switch them to two. I also noticed during a brake torque that I had a very rich idle to main transition so I increased the air bleed a little and that helped. After messing with that, did not help my 60 foot… Yet. I did find my timing wasn’t as advanced as I thought. I put two more degrees in and got my ten. Not a deep 10 to be proud of but a 10 nonetheless. Appreciate the advice guys! The learning $$..
Found a couple of issues. Pump cam position as you guys mentioned, both front and rear were at position one, I switch them to two. I also noticed during a brake torque that I had a very rich idle to main transition so I increased the air bleed a little and that helped. After messing with that, did not help my 60 foot… Yet. I did find my timing wasn’t as advanced as I thought. I put two more degrees in and got my ten. Not a deep 10 to be proud of but a 10 nonetheless. Appreciate the advice guys! The learning $$..
Consistent 10.5 is my goal. That's enough hp for my wieght? Would be nice if I could shave 1000lbs but I want all metal, this hood and the interior, lol. I took the bench out and put a cage in last winter/ 2 kirkeys. I figure they cancel each out ish..
Big cubes and a single plane you need a big pump shot, especially if you are leaving at a relatively low rpm.
is your wide band fast acting? If it is, set up your phone to video it, I’ll bet it’s going way lean for a split second off the line.
I'd have to say no, I have tried recording with my camera and the video shows "888", because of the flicker, frequency of the camera..and science n' stuff??
Definitely way way better after the cam position change, was every time and now it's very rare to show lean on a hard pedal shot. (on your and Duh's advice thankfully)
I will likely drill out front and rear squirters to 0.040" in the spring.
Today I recalled a burnout that didn't feel "equal" if you know what I mean. I think the posi isn't doing so well. That can't be helping my 60'. I took the cover off tonight and I've got some man glitter in there. I will verify the bearings, but I'm pretty sure it's time for a spool
Nope, not helping. If your serious about racing a spool is simple insurance. From the look of your video there is probably a bunch of other stuff that can help.
Today I recalled a burnout that didn't feel "equal" if you know what I mean. I think the posi isn't doing so well. That can't be helping my 60'. I took the cover off tonight and I've got some man glitter in there. I will verify the bearings, but I'm pretty sure it's time for a spool
Nope, not helping. If your serious about racing a spool is simple insurance. From the look of your video there is probably a bunch of other stuff that can help.
Yes pretty much, wasn’t intended to be a track only car but here I am.
This winter it gets rear coil overs, adjustable upper control arms as well as suggestions in the suspension..
Yes pretty much, wasn’t intended to be a track only car but here I am.
This winter it gets rear coil overs, adjustable upper control arms as well as suggestions in the suspension..
Yup, it goes like that 😂
At least you know the right direction to move in. I personally would start with the rear geometry. See where your instant center is then decide on what parts you need to correct it. Most A bodies are too far forward and up. There are a bunch of ways to change this depending on your skill sets and how much you want to spend. They all include moving the control arm hook up points. The second thing that's become fairly economical and easy to do is a good bolt on ARB. The coil overs if bolt on don't offer much other than allowing ride hight changes more easily. Either way get a good shock.
I have been checking this out, i also like the idea of dick millers adjustable uppers that relocate. I have factory boxed lower arms and sway bar, but not opposed to changing them
Last edited by chuck_royle; Nov 2, 2022 at 05:27 PM.
You just listed the two most commonly used methods of moving your instant center. Both styles move the center back hopefully past the neutral line to give you positive anti squat. The pictured set looks be be "lift bars". They will move it back and raise your instant center. The other is a "stop hop/ anti hop". It will move it back and lower the instant center. The lift bars work well with less power as they can over power the chassis and unload with alot of power. Stop hop bars work better with more power. In the end both can be made to work. Just look at a chassis car with a 4 link most are set up like the stop hops. I'd personally replace all of the arms with a minimum of urethane bushings, especially if you plan to street drive it. If it's for track use only rod ends. You can also use a mix on the street. The ARB works way better than the GM style sway bar.
I have been checking this out, i also like the idea of dick millers adjustable uppers that relocate. I have factory boxed lower arms and sway bar, but not opposed to changing them
Chuck, "looks" like a nice kit. BUT since you have boxed lowers and sway bar already, why not just get the adjustable uppers? I'm looking at the Global West stuff as a super stock guy uses that for his stuff and SS class guys don't mess around.
At this power level, tying the lower control arms together is pointless; you can't get a thick enough bar. A frame referenced bar is where to be, now.
Does that mean I need to put holes in my trunk, or am I thinking of another style of rear ARB? thanks guys, I'm learning lots! Although I wish I knew everything already
Does that mean I need to put holes in my trunk, or am I thinking of another style of rear ARB? thanks guys, I'm learning lots! Although I wish I knew everything already
Bolt on anti roll bar. They are adjustable and help the car leave square, there are many a fast car running this style of bar
Does that mean I need to put holes in my trunk, or am I thinking of another style of rear ARB? thanks guys, I'm learning lots! Although I wish I knew everything already
No need to cut the car up. Usually just a small hole or two in the frame for the bolt on type.
I personally like the one from Spohn. Just make sure if you have a rear cover girdle it clears, all brands.
Got you on the roll bar, I saw a Buick at the track the other day with that style and wondered. Don't want to put a bar up inside the trunk, I like that one to the frame!
Damn Bernard, stop posting stuff I need to buy??? LOL just did the current conversion. $409.95 is just under $1,000,000 CND $$$$. No really, $400 US cost me $566.04 CND THURSDAY. Now add shipping, duties and taxes, so probably just over $800.
Thanks for the anti-roll, that will be on order soon. I also like the global west upper and lowers. BUT might just brace lowers and use there uppers with bearings and this style anti-roll. I'm thinking we should around 600Hp when engine is done. Speedmasters are pretty much done. Once I get a flow number I'm pulling the motor, freshening it up, going solid roller, and this suspension listed.
