antzahh

No threads in that converter and yeah i would but 10mm is too small and 12mm is too big, i managed to find inch threaded bolt?? and that reads 11mm so that's close enough, I just need to wait till monday if i don't want to drive too far away from my town to get couple bolts and nuts

fleming442

11mm is 7/16" 🤪

OLDSter Ralph

How is it bolted to the torque convertor ?

antzahh

I was thinking the same..

antzahh

Bolt, washer, nut

antzahh

I did change the bolts and voilá, no clacking or knocking sounds anymore or atleast i didn't heard anything suspicious while i was doing about lets say 10-15miles test drive.

fleming442

Winner, winner, chicken dinner!!!!

olds 307 and 403

Always nice when it is an easy fix. I have never used the bolt and nut style, always used the lug style converters. Obviously they can work with an Olds V8, good to know, some have claimed otherwise.

antzahh

It's been a while but there's something for you guys..

olds 307 and 403

You need to change your privacy settings.

antzahh

Fixed!?

olds 307 and 403

Oh, it was. Actually the 330 crank, even with the lighter pistons was $1500+ Canadian for internal balancing, I just said F it, over $3K for the machine work, an ugly bill but it is paid. The original shop didn't hone fit the pins for floating on the Molnar rods to Mahle pistons, the shop doing the balancing is doing them. The new Edelbrock heads are going on too. Yes, I can see it now, sounds really mean.

antzahh

So that fit hone is included in that $1500? Still sounds really, really expensive.. I think that those iron heads which i have was in the similar price range with new valves n stuff..

olds 307 and 403

Nope, it took 5 slugs, Mallory is dam expensive. Yeah, a set of rebuilt irons heads would be similar. I am going with the new Edelbrock heads. Your car should haul ***.

antzahh

Oh yeah those slugs explains is all.. And yeah thanks! I think Im going to have some more interesting footage in the next summer

antzahh

First test drive yesterday and everything went fine until engine got its operating temperature and i kicked the throttle a bit harder for the burnout, huge one bang from exhaust and after that a couple more loud ones... There was a rhythm for the pops and bangs. Went back to shop at idle and let her cool down, after that idle/throttling was decent, not huge pops or bangs.

Today checked the valve lash and they were good, not too tight anywhere, checked compression pressure, a hair over 14 bars all over. Also pulled all spark plugs and tested couple ones for the spark, weak yellow spark, cant really even hear the ZAP.
Altough most of the plugs looked fine, couple were more black than others and one was wet.

All new MSD 8mm streetfire wires and also all new AC Delco R45S Plugs.

olds 307 and 403

For one 200 psi is pretty high, it sounds like pinging, I experienced the same at 180 psi on 91 octane. Make sure you only run the highest premium fuel you have there. Get your carb tuned with a wideband and go through and replace anything questionable in the ignition system. Consider a colder plug like R43 if you prefer AC Delco's. Slowing the timing curve, limiting the vacuum advance and running the cold NGK 5671-8 plugs eliminated my pinging. Good luck.

antzahh

Yeah that maybe sounds a bit high but what i've read is that the guys who are serious engine builders has tought that even 12:1 compression is doable on street and even with pump gas. Isnt that kinda compression giving you a whole lot more cylinder pressure than for example 10.5:1? And yes im only using premium.

Today I have checked things listed below:
New plugs
New wires
New battery
Power cable to distributor is getting 12v
Coil OHM seems good
Improved ground to engine
Improved ground to battery

That Progression Ignition Distributor manual points that I CANNOT use Non-Resistor plugs and my plugs are with resistors. I CANNOT use solid core wires. Spiral core/Supression wires are acceptable and Im usin ones which have Spiral core.

fleming442

I wouldn't worry so much about that. Try putting some race gas in; see what happens. 12.5:1 can be done on pump gas, though.

antzahh

I dont think that would fix the yellow weak spark?

fleming442

Ha! You're right. What do you have for ignition? I just had to replace the pickup in my MSD Pro Billet. Wouldn't even start.... after getting gas. Drove in to the station fine!

antzahh

Progression Ignition HEI

fleming442

Do you have the ground strap on the coil (under the cover) and grounded? It shouldn't matter, but would rule it out. Other defective components, the power wire should be 12ga, and hooked directly to the pink on the ignition switch or bulkhead connector.

Operating voltage should be above 13.5v (14.4 nominal, above 2000 rpm or so).

antzahh

Everything on the distributor is untouched and it should be "plug and play" so yeah im pretty sure that ground is okay also in the distributor cap/inside if you meant that.
Earlier today i took off the coil cap and checked its ohm readings, they were fine. Also checked the ground straps etc.

olds 307 and 403

What are you running for timing? Seriously, the colder plugs do help with pinging. The colder AC Delco R43S might be all that is needed with the proper timing curve. Yes, modern engines run 12.5 to 1 but use many tricks to do it, including much better combustion chambers than our 1964 chambers.

fleming442

The ground strap usually just goes to the "inner" set of terminals. I usually add an extra to the car from the "outer" terminal, between the power and tach.

coppercutlass

Initial timing , timing curve and engine load have alot to do with cylinder pressure spikes which is when you have pinging or detonation. I run 10.25 to 1 and have ran 91 octane I'm a pinch with no issues.

fleming442

I'm locked 36⁰ on 93 with substantial compression. Doesn't ping or run on, but it used to with the carb. Tune has a lot to do with it, too.
But, the weak yellow spark, tho.....

coppercutlass

Yeah the tune is everything that's where using an AFR gauge really helped . My car cruises at about 12.5 13.0 . Not rich enough to wash things out but fat enough to be safe.

olds 307 and 403

I wonder what the Progression Ignition distributors use for a coil? Maybe a MSD or Accel coil might be a good upgrade with a low ohm MSD 8412 coil bushing. It also doesn't mention the module amperage output except that it is good to 10,000 rpm.

coppercutlass

I am still running an HEI . Now another mention I will make.. if you have any and I mean any digital ignition problems make sure you don't have RFI. When I installed my digital rev limiter above 5k rpm it really labored like it was taking timing out too soon. I placed it in the car and made an aluminum cover for it to sheild it . Just some food for thought. Alot of people quickly install digital products and our cars are a playground for RFI.

Bernhard

MSD and Accel are not what they used to be !

olds 307 and 403

I don't disagree with that statement somewhat, so many transfer of ownerships the last few years. I have a 25 year old Accel Super coil, still works. I bought one of the last red and white lead Accel Brute Thunder coils in stock a couple of years back. It is a nice looking coil, supposedly another 3000 volts over the regular HEI Supercoil, is it any better? It comes with the low ohm contact bushing. It is only available in the red and yellow wires currently. Honestly the quality of the Acell spark plug wires improved a lot in 25 years, they were junk back then, they leaked voltage often, a few of us had issues. The now discontinued Accel 25 ohm race wires were the nicest wires I have owned. I bought one of the last sets new for my new motor. They held up to heat much better than the MSD Superconductor wires. The Accel 9000, the coated style, not the newer ceramic boot style, never tried them, were also decent wires.

antzahh

Well guys you know what!

After all testing and thinking we swapped the cheap aftermarket blue cap HEI in place an voilà! THE SPARK WAS THERE AGAIN, engine now sounds and feels what it should. Going to send couple mails to Progression Ignition hq

olds 307 and 403

Curious, what brand cap and rotor did you go with? Standard/Blue Streak, was the brand years ago, along with Accel. Most of the cheap Chinese cap and rotors seem Ok, quality wise. Some have seen issues with excessive resistance on the center contact, it could have been the issue. Glad it was simple fix.

antzahh

Its probably Blue Streak unit..

fleming442

Isn't Progression the one you can tune through your cell phone?

CANADIANOLDS

ya, the self learning app😁

antzahh

Yep!