CANADIANOLDS

Here, I’ll get you back on topic

mid 10’s at 130 is pretty easy with a 496 and not that costly. The crank and rods are actually very reasonable.

that’s the reason why. what’s copper run again?

there, back onto the topic of why a 496 would be chosen over a 350

coppercutlass

My car has ran a best of 11.62 @ 112 with a1.56 60 ft. I have maybe 7k tops from carburetor to differential Engine probably has maybe 4k in it money wise. But I did barter alot and traded and what not. But fair play is fair play.

CANADIANOLDS

at what weight?

Ya I doesn’t need to cost a lot to run quick.

two 496’s that I personally know run 10:3@134 and 10:65@125. Both iron heads and flat tappet. The slower one runs a Comp 305 magnum cam. Mostly used or stolen😉parts

neither one are the prettiest to look at..but they don’t care.

I don’t want to clutter up this guys thread..I’ll start a new one

antzahh

Melling intake and Milodon Exhaust valves were used. Rockers are PRW Pro Series steel rollers. Rocker is sitting freely and again, everything is looking good with eye and feeling good by the hand. Pushrod is sitting freely on the center of the guide plate when cam is on base circle. No marks of touching the pushrod holes. Some of pushrods has more wear on the spot where it touches the guide plate, some has minimal.

OLDSter Ralph

Make sure you have no sharp corners on the push rod slots. Slightly rounding the edges shouldn't hurt.

CANADIANOLDS

what kind of gap? Are you sure you don’t have 3/8” guide plates and 5/16” push rods? That would show a big gap

usually you’ll have roughly .015” to .020” clearance

the one pic I’m taking about is where the roller at the valve is way off to one side.. that’s probably because when you tightened down the rocker stud, it wasn’t aligned over the valve stem

its easy for that to happen on that style of split adjustable guide plates and show the out of whack wear

i would loose both rocker studs on that set and make sure both rollers are lined up over the stem then tighten and make sure the guide plate doesn’t twist on you

antzahh

The clearance was something like that what you mentioned. I'll adjust them and not double but triple check them.

coppercutlass

@canadianolds race weight is about 3300 +/- depending on how much fuel .

CANADIANOLDS

Sounds like you got it sorted out .

antzahh

Found the suspect of the pushrod wear, bottom of the guide plate.

Also something weird is going on in the 3rd cylinder's exhaust port. Leaking oil ring?

CANADIANOLDS

Looks like the P rod is contacting the head .

should have checked for clearance during assembly. Are they 1.7 ratio rockers?

You’ll need to clearance all the pushrod holes in the head then

antzahh

Pushrod holes are already have been enlarged. That photo may give you wrong picture about the situation.
Rockers have stock ratio which is 1.6?
i already filed all 16 guide plates so that now they clears out from the bottom of the plate.

Maybe this is better picture...

HighwayStar 442

Have you contract Pro Street Ky. Did they not do the work on the heads?

VORTECPRO

Check and make sure the exhaust valve seal is there.

CANADIANOLDS

Ah ok. Ya they shouldn’t be close to the max depth. They must all be very close if that one is?

you’ll have to make them a little deeper

then re check at max lift as that’s the point the P rod is closest to the guide plate depth

CANADIANOLDS

do the plugs look the same on those two cylinders?

if they do, then it’s not rings.

even if your using the stock type umbrella seals, or no ex seals at all, you shouldn’t be getting that much oil down though the guide on a fresh set of guides

antzahh

All plugs looked the same.. that is really weird.

CANADIANOLDS

that’s a good sign

antzahh

Im 50/50 to just throw it in the chassis and send it OR tear that damn thing down and check the 3# piston rings, i think that the engine will still come out in the winter maybe?! Really dont know right now..

CANADIANOLDS

I would stick a bore scope in that cylinder to see if the chamber color looks any different than the others. if its wet like the ex port, then you have issues.

even it was a totally worn out ex guide, it wouldnt show full evenly wetted ex port, it would show a stream from the guide and wetting the port down stream. it looks to me like its from oily combustion when the whole port is wet. but you say the plug looks fine? it would show oily wet on the base, near the threads

antzahh

When this happened, we tried to crank the engine like for some time, flicking the throttle at the same time.. yet then we didn't knew that the spark was gone.. Could it be just so large amount of unburned fuel? Seems strange tho... But could be one option?

CANADIANOLDS

if it was raw fuel it would be black and dry..sooty.

on all, not just one.

im guessing here. Maybe try a compression test? If that one is a bit higher than the rest, you may have oil in that cyl.

I would still scope it

antzahh

Yeah going to test the compression for sure

VORTECPRO

Have you looked to see if the valve stem seal is in place on that hole?"

antzahh

I haven't actually.. Going to check it today

VORTECPRO

You probably should, if the seal is in place see if you can move the valve stem with your fingers.

antzahh

Well got my hands on the seal and nothing looks suspicious.. although seal rotates by finger and came off with fingers.. but "plops" back in place like it would seal pretty good, feels nice and firm.

CANADIANOLDS

Scope it . There are low cost mini cams that work off your phone on Amazon if you can’t borrow one

im still leaning towards it being from oily combustion because it’s everywhere.

second ring upside down? Seen that before and looked exactly like yours…plug electrode and porcelain were good..only the base around the threads were a bit wet.

antzahh

one thing we also found out also, when we checked the top of the piston from the plug hole, i saw liquid on it, let's say like teaspoon or two. I took wire and wrapped cloth around it, dipped it on the "pool" of liquid and smell it, it was fuel. Could there be a chance that the 3# cylinder got out of spark way ahead of others or didn't even have it in the whole entire time while break-in and all that fuel just got dumped into combustion chamber without ignition.?

antzahh

I think i just gonna send it, now starting to assembly the valve train and after everything is done, take the compression check. Couldn't see any oil on top of the piston either and when i was breaking in this thing it didn't smoke like not at all so... If it start's which i higly doubt but IF then i'll just tear the whole thing down and learn my lesson the hard way, simple as that.

CANADIANOLDS

raw fuel shouldn’t puddle, it would evaporate-or get pump out the exhaust and show a black sooty port, but dry. after sitting a few minutes, in a warm engine, that fuel would be gone and show a black plug if it wasn’t firing or even very rich and firing

but You said the plugs look fine .

oil will last in the chamber and puddle at the bottom and show a clean but wet piston top.

antzahh

Rings never came off of the pistons after i drove with this same engine couple of years ago and it didn't smoke or waste oil, only oilpan gasket was leaking a bit back then

CANADIANOLDS

Oh, I thought it was a new build .

im gonna stop guessing at what’s causing that oily ex port.

Going in circles

antzahh

Yeah, just got done with valve train assembly and adjustment, took like 4-5 hours. Took many retakes to get the rocker sit properly on the stem.
Next step is to throw the engine and trans in the chassis, check alignments and then get the right rear end aligned and brackets welded.. rest is just spinning the bolts and we are riding soon.

antzahh

Now its been almost a month when i first drove the car and got it inspected and everything was good to go.. I've been driving it like lets say 30-40 miles now, not really hard on gas or anything because i didn't knew anything about the carb that is it pulling too lean or rich? I was just driving carefully most of the time. Oil pressure and engine temperature were perfect. Now the engine is dynoed and tuned in the chassis dyno and we got an hair over 400hp from the crankshaft, I'll call it good for now.

NOW comes the thing that worries me a little bit.. So one day when i went to drive just for fun (before the dyno session), all of a sudden the engine starts to make a pretty loud, mechanical ticking sound when driving part throttle. I got scared at first and thought that its the rod bearing BUT it wasn't, i let off the gas and the noise went away almost immediately, i parked the car and let it idle, no ticking, gave it a little bit gas, no ticking also...
Oil pressure and temperature was again, perfect. Checked the valvetrain, everything seemed to be fine, all clearances was fine. Exhaust manifold is not leaking. Engine don't have vacuum leak.

Now the engine is dialed in and it still makes that ticking after driving for a while... And again, it goes away when i let off the gas... Timing was a little off (a bit much advanced) and so was the carb (a little bit too lean) before the dyno. Now they are golden... So i don't think that it can be detonation or too lean mixture atleast anymore..

Am I the only one with this kind of issue or have you guys ever experienced something like this?

Thanks in advance.

fleming442

Check the torque converter bolts.

antzahh

I'll start with that!

antzahh

So i drove the car to the lift and separated the flex plate and converter, on the left side is the hole what matches the converter pattern and I don't know if you guys are able to see it but Im definately sure that the hole is square and the right side hole is round, it was kinda hard to get the bolts out and i think they were a little too small in diameter for the holes.. Now I think that I need to drill the hole a little bit bigger because i can't fit the right size bolt through the hole anymore...

antzahh

I read from another topic that the bolt size should be 3/8"-16..? But when i measured the bolt holes, both right and left hole are a hair bigger and i've been told that bolt needs to sit firm in there..
i think that my last option is to take the next size and go with that...

fleming442

I don't mess with autos too much, but aren't the holes threaded on the converter side?
if it's a nut and bolt, you might be able to increase it. You're in Europe, right? Throw some metric at it!