coppercutlass

The gasket kit I showed was a speed pro kit. I jumped to the conclusion speed pro used felpro because federal mogul owns both so it would not make sense for to have 3 diffrent gasket makers since flepro is the gasket company our of the 3 it would just be boxed as speed pro . But it actually came in a flepro box. I have the part number at home and I actually posted a thread about it.

billmerbach

Ii I can get the old out and get the 350 to my place an in there the car that is I'll do it and build a high perf out ta that one already tore apart

MDchanic

Bill, QS442 responded on the motor mount thread.

He's done some hard work trying to get an Olds V8 mounted properly in an X-body frame.

I think you'd like to talk to him.

- Eric

billmerbach

I will he's my omega buddy lol

billmerbach

went on rock auto to get me a model for my lifters and scored me a whole new set of those same lifters for get this 46 bucks and free shipping I just saved about 30 bucks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310884808735...84.m1439.l2649

billmerbach

I need to get some .10 undersized crank bearings which is better sealed power or clevite I can get both on rockauto for the same price just wondering which is better
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=5220
whats the difference in the two

billmerbach

Anyone?

MDchanic

I am NO expert on bearings, but from what I have seen, the answer, especially for your application, would be "Flip a coin."

They're both good.

I thought you already had bearings that came with your reman. crank. Am I confused?

- Eric

pogo69

clevite77 are well known to be used for long life with proper clearance

olds 307 and 403

Go Clevite.

redoldsman

So many of these companies have merged over the years, I would not be surprised if they are the same bearings. As Eric said, they are both good.

coppercutlass

Fwiw I'm running king bearings I think they are cheaper through summit than the clevites. The mopar guys approve of them so I decided to run em on my 355.

billmerbach

OK and Eric the one that came with my crank were damaged and I was never able to get there to exchange them

MDchanic

I know that the whole point of this exercise is to get you transportation, and that that means that you don't have transportation now, but... Really?

I understand not being able to get around - I junked a perfectly good, beat-up '70 Cutlass convertible once because I had no way to get heavy heads with bent valves back and forth to the machine shop several miles away without a car, but... Really?

For a guy on a budget, it just seems cheaper to get a ride and exchange the damaged parts than to "shell" out (get it? ) something like $120 for a set of rod and main bearings.

If nothing else, let this be the lesson that you never leave the auto parts store without opening every box and taking a close look inside.

- Eric

billmerbach

Well I actually bought it offline and saved 75 dollars lol and when I hot them the main bear rings were opened AMD sprawled out everywhere and I can get them at rock auto for 27 bucks but yes I will do netter Eric I was still learning then....well for that matter I still am learning

billmerbach

And the rod bearings were perfectly sealed

MDchanic

Ahhhh... I see.

Yeah, for on line purchases, it is best to open the box while the delivery guy is still there, but that is sometimes easier said than done (like if you're not home). Even if he's not there, you should be able to call their 800 number and tell them it was damaged, and ask them to come take it back.

- Eric

billmerbach

Yea u will be better about that but I will buy the clevited today I like the way they shrink wrap there pieces together and for a wholesale price of 27 bucks I'll do it and how did you like my lifters I scored?

MDchanic

I agree, the Clevite 3-layer bearing shells and the Sealed Power lifters are a good deal, and a very reasonable solution for you.

Good shopping! There are bargains everywhere if you keep your eyes open.

- Eric

billmerbach

Thanks man I'll be on very little today after I install dads gas tank I'm gonna take out the old v6 wish me luck

MDchanic

Good luck!

Though, I have to ask:

If it runs, and you don't yet have a running V8 to replace it with, should you pull it yet?

- Eric

billmerbach

It hasn't run in 20 years that's why I ain't putting it back in lol it need a rebuild too so I'll invest in the v8 lol also just scored me a valley pan for 22 buck on eBay and bearings total at 33 bucks all I need now are carb dizzy oil pump (just in case) and intake bolts and it should be a complete engine

billmerbach

just thinking ahead on this flare tool what do you think I should offer it looks pretty complete and made in usa lol
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111298887145...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

MDchanic

Okay.

I'm not arguing, and you're the only one who's there with the car and able to see it, but the voice of my old man, from when I was a teenager, says, "20 years or not, why not get the car running and registered as it is, then you can use it to drive around and collect parts for the new motor, and then you can put the new motor in when it's done?"

Again, it's your car and you are the only one who sees the whole picture, but I feel like I have to say it.

- Eric

MDchanic

I don't see any of the little flange dies with it.
If it doesn't have them it's useless.

Harbor Freight has a serviceable one for $25.

- Eric

billmerbach

ok I got to looking at some others and saw it was missing something thanks for that. About the engine I was also told that but the fact that I wanted a v8 and got one for 90 I wasn't gonna drop money in the v6 when later on id have to do the same for the v8. I agree why not get the v6 running but it sat for so long in a junkyard then in the woods I didn't have enough info to go on about what to do with is I may keep it and make a turbo engine later as a goof around project who knows

billmerbach

What a day got the engine unbolted from the trans and hope to roll it out tomorrow and Be able to asses any major repairs BTW my brake lines don't look to bad I will probably take them off and just spray them down with wd40 and wipe them dry

oldcutlass

That flaring tool will work on standard flare lines, no dies required. I would not remove or disturb the brake lines unless you are working on a specific component.

billmerbach

Ok thanks I'll just spray them down with wd40 then

MDchanic

Really? I've always used the process where you use the die to start the flare rolling inward, then use the anvil/screw tools to complete the flare.

I was under the impression that all brake lines had to be double-flared like that to be either safe or legal.

Oh, and Bill, I agree - if the brake lines aren't crusty, don't mess with them. You can wreck them taking them off, and if they're good, there's no reason to do that.

- Eric

billmerbach

Ok cool thanks

billmerbach

About to get wet this morning draining the old oil in the v6 loosing other manifold or cutting since these bolts don't want to come out as easily as the others which surprised me but hey less work lol. Gonna loosing the mounts remove sway bar and tip the engine out >

billmerbach

What's an accurate torque wrench to buy OK some are cheap an inaccurate what do I need to properly torque my bolts

oldstata

I would buy a craftsman for what your using. if you want cheap harbor freight has some but I am not sure I would trust it just my opinion

MDchanic

For your combination of factors:
Relatively little experience, no other torque wrench, limited budget, I would suggest getting a simple indicator scale type wrench from eBay or a yard sale.
That type are unlikely to be out of calibration and survive abuse well, whereas the click type can get out of whack if left with the scale tightened for too long.

Go for an older name-brand like Snap-On, S-K, Mac, K-D, Craftsman, or Matco.

Make sure you buy one with the range that you need.

- Eric

oldstata

Eric , do you think the scale type would work on head bolts ?
I personally have never liked them at all. I guess I like to set and hear the click tho

MDchanic

Sure. It's all I had when I was younger.

I kind of like having the scale. It makes it easy to pull just the torque you want (such as when bringing head bolts up to torque progressively).

The click type is nice because you don't have to look at it, but I'd like it better without the all-or-nothing feedback, and I always kind of wonder whether they're accurate.

- Eric

billmerbach

Question does anyone have Skype or somw kind of video messaging that I can communicate with them one day to put in the bottom end?

billmerbach

Do I need to plastiguage all my crank journals even though I'm putting a reman in or am I just trying g to overcome.I care my already stressed mind with last minute necessities

MDchanic

I would. Otherwise you will always wonder, every minute of every day, every mile that you drive.

I'll get back to you on the Skype question. I assume you're talking movin' pitchers.

- Eric