With the help of RROLDSX my steering wheel has been bought. With that money I'm am purchasing that 307 engine from copper. So as I finalize the payments on both this is gonna be my official build page so I want to think this community for all of their help as I move forward with my car

 

Look forward to seeing some progress.

 

Good luck with it Bill.
I will be following your progress.

 

Thanks guys

 

OK so things changed and I had to take a loss on the wheel but I'm about 55 dollars away from getting that engine from copper

 

should be a fun project

 

I hope so I'm debating on whether I should paint it the original buckskin metallic or not

 

OK update I sold the wheel and finally got it shipped out today after a week of car trouble and I'm getting a Oldsmobile rocket 350 1970 BTW for 90 DOLLARS I need brackets and pulleys though so any help will be appreciated

 

OK so Saturday I'm gonna go pick up the engine I found out he has just about all the bracket and pulleys except ac but that's for wimps lol any advice besides freshen up change plugs and the basic would be greatly appreciated things are looking up for my build

 

Does the engine run?

 

It did as of 20 years ago when it was pulled and its been stored ever since

 

So whats your plan and budget now?

 

Right now my plan is to make sure its runnable and then get my front clip fixed up so I can get a radiator and budget still tight but if my dads car will get fixed I can work and my budget will become a bit flexible

 

Could also posibbly be getting a 77 four dour nova for 400 that runs

 

Got my 350 today it came outta cutlass so when I get my other boxes of parts I'll be selling some of the cutlass stuff and on that cutlass note it has a 4 barrel and it has 310 bhp so for 90 dollars I got a deal

 

I'm open to suggestions on what I should do

 

So just to confirm I was right I opened up the engine today gosh it was sludged up BUT not frozen on to the real point Copper told me just to be sure I had 310 HP check the pistons OK I did and I have the for thepistons for the 310 HP 350 so paired with the number 6 heads can I assume I have the 10 to 1 compression or no

 

don't forget that the older head gaskets were thinner, the new ones are a bit thicker not sure how much they affect the compression, but it will I will be asking the shop when milling my heads to take as much of the gasket thickness as they can out with out making me go to a adjustable rocker.


I have a set of non ac brakets for a 67 cutlass if needed maybe we can make a deal on the air cleaners

 

Well I don't know if I need them I have 3 to 4 more boxes of brackets coming from the guy I bought my engine from and I'm gonna try to get an older kit off eBay mate new old stock so that should help

 

I would get a set of .028" head gaskets from Rocket Racing or .011" shim head gaskets from M+J Proformance. With the .028" head gaskets, you will be right around 9 to 1 compression. I assume you have already pulled the heads? Also a good time to upgrade the cam, the stock one is ridiculously mild. Matching springs and new valve seals while you at it. A new timing chain and gears also should be done. If there are missing plastic teeth, check the oil pump pick up. Any old gasket set will probably have .041" Felpro head gaskets.

 

He will be at 9 to 1 with .040 head gaskets and the pistons being .025 appx. in the cyl. and the heads cc'ing at 68 cc's and the dish being 7 cc's . His budget is very limited so upgrades will have to be minimal.

 

Maybe list what he needs and looking for and if any members can help out 16 and a major project. Is awesome

 

Well i might needs can and valve springs and rods but everything else I think I can handle oh and an engine stand

 

There's a Harbor Freight and a Northern Tool in Hickory.

HF has a 1000-lb engine stand on sale for $60. They have a 750-lb for $48 but the 1000-lb has a four point footprint and gives you a little better margin of safety. I almost dumped a 455 long block off my 750-lb about 20 years ago- not a good feeling. After that I went and bought a 1000-lb with the four-point footprint- and the only thing's been on it was a neighbor kid's SBC.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...q=engine+stand

You can rent a cherry picker crane to swap the engines, or if you have a tractor with a hog lift that'll work too.

Wouldn't hurt to put front and rear crank oil seals in while engine is out. You want to do as much stuff like that as you can before you stick it in the car and find oil leaks when you start the engine the first time.

Take things slow and methodically and never be afraid to ask questions. Guys here will help you as we've all been there.

 

Thanks any info is greatly appreciated

 

OK I was rereading through things here and I found something I have a question about if I don't change the valve guides will I have problems or not I want to keep from diving in too deep cause I just want to get it running

 

It depends if there bad I have taken heads in that they just checked and resurfaced around 100.00 bucks.I've also had heads that required a full rebuild around 500.00 it just depends in condition.

 

OK well the engine has chunks of sludge but its sat for 20 years and how hard would they be to change is it just a matter of popping out the old and popping in the new or is it more complicated

 

Valve guides require machine work, but I've never known many 64-later Olds V8 to have serious valve guide problems. Look at your valve stems and see if they're worn excessively. If not, throw some penetrating oil on them followed by some assembly lube or STP and you should be OK.

Now, valve SEALS, otoh. Those are nylon caps that fit over the valve stem, inside the valve springs, and are almost guaranteed to disintegrate after a while. You can replace them with engine in car but as long as you have things apart, now's the time. The valve springs have to come off to get at them. Bad valve seals will cause excess oil consumption as well as aggravate low vacuum issues.

Young'un, do you have access to tools and a mentor to help you? I think you said your high school had cut auto tech classes? That's gonna come back to bite a whole lotta education systems in the ***.

 

I can get some tools if I need them and I have some knowledgeable friends

 

OK was in class had to cut my post short so if they are good I can leave them replace the seals and be on with it should the valves fit loose or snug and while I'm at it should I get double coil springs for a stock rebuild or single coil

 

Just make sure your friends know there ARE differences between Oldsmobile V8 and Chevrolet, and if they tell you one thing, and the guys here tell you something different, go with the Olds knowledge.

Can't tell you how many Chevy guys I've known tried to tune an Olds using Chevy firing order and couldn't get the engine to run.

 

OK thanks

 

Are the heads off the engine now? Do you need to pull the heads? If not, I'd drop the pan to clean the sludge, check the oil pump pickup, change the timing chain, drop it in & take your chances.

 

Well the heads are off and there is sludge in the cylinders too when I change the can would it be acceptable to leave the pistons in and do it that way or should I just take the pistons out too

 

Ok so I'm thinking if my cylinder walls look ungouged can I go ahead an skip changing my rings or would it be in my vest interest to change them

 

I would do as much as your budget will allow you too I would cheap out on rings if you plan on a rebuild. Do you plan to pull a few caps and check bearings ?

 

What do you mean pull a few caps and check the bearings

 

Get your engine on a stand !! Pull your oil pan you have bearings between the block , crank and caps if you don't know the history or bought it from a reliable source I would check or have some one check them

Here is a recent thread I think it will help
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...083#post619083

 

Oh yea I plan on that I'm not used to the terminology but I do plan on doing that