I will They have 2 kits I'm gonna check both out and see what the difference is

 

Ok so I need help in a decision making process I want to start everywhere but ik I need to start at one place on my repairs I want to do suspension and brakes first since I don't need much more in the engine to complete it. I want to do the brakes first since I can easily access them is this a wise idea. Also I have a person who is gonna take the 231 and trade me some parts for it if that helps in you helping me make a decision

 

I agree. Brakes first.

If I'm not mistaken, you need to have this car for transportation, not just for fun, so I would do the most necessary things first, and leave the others for when you have time and can afford them.

Therefore, I'd recommend: Brakes, anything in the steering or suspension that is flat-out no good (no "improvements" yet), engine and transmission, tires, interior, THEN suspension upgrades, etc.

- Eric

 

Thanks that's what I was leaning on doing but I'm set back once again the guy trading for my 231 blocked me on Facebook apparently so I can't get that out to check out my suspension and look at my to do list on repairs due to rust etc

 

Ok so I'm rock auto trying to do stuff for my rear drums everything is rusty so I'm doing all new drums pads hardware etc thing is will an 11 in drum work I assume its a 9.5 in stock drum. The other problem I'm having is ik some of what I need and the rest I don't can I get a list of what all I need

 

To do your rear brakes?

Brake lines, if rusted.
Brake drums, if the old ones are unsalvageable, otherwise, have the old ones cut a few thousandths and they should be fine.
Wheel cylinders, almost definitely.
A spring kit.
Shoes.
Maybe a pair of emergency brake cables, if yours are rusted beyond salvation.
And a brake spring tool or pair of brake spring tools (depending on the configuration of the tool(s)), because they're not expensive, the job is easy with them, and is a royal PIA without them.

- Eric

 

ok so all I was really missing is a break spring too and hopefully I can salvage my stuck cable may some pb blaster?

 

PB Blaster, KROIL, or something similar.

Soak, pull, soak, pull, etc. Better to hang them up and oil the top, so it can run down the inside.

After they're free, lube them up with a good evaporating-solvent-based grease, like the stuff you use for motorcycle cables.

- Eric

 

I have never realized this till now but the tool you are talking about I have never used. Me and my dad did it by hand with a screwdriver on his astro van

 

Awesome that saves about 40 bucks right there thanks eric

 

You're in for a treat if you get the right tool, then.

- Eric

 

lol I might lol how easy is this full on brake job I've helped do a hardware and shoe change but never a full on brake job

 

You've already done all the same work then, other than wheel cylinders, which can be rusted on, and which, especially, can be rusted to their lines, ultimately requiring destruction and replacement of the lines in order to remove them.

No big deal, though.

- Eric

 

Sweet ok so how do I go about the front rotors esp how to remove the old rotors

 

Remove wheels.
Stick big screwdriver or prybar through hole in top of caliper and pry between outside edge of rotor and inside of hole in caliper, so that you pry the entire body of the caliper toward the outside of the car, thus compressing the piston. Pry slowly and firmly - the caliper should move slowly, and finally stop.
Remove two caliper fastening pins from the inboard side of the caliper (I believe these were still ⅜" Allen-head screws in your year - you'll need a ⅜"-drive Allen socket to get them off and back on again).
Pry caliper off of bracket. If it's frozen, you may need to take extreme measures.
Pop pads out of rotor (if rotor is going to be reused), pop in new pads, and reinstall.
If you will be replacing to rotor or having it turned (probably all it needs), then hang the caliper so that it is not hanging by its hose, remove the two bolts that hold the caliper bracket on the back of the steering knuckle (they will be TIGHT), remove the bracket, pop the dust cap off of the hub, remove the cotter pin, remove the nut, remove the washer (note which face is in and which is out), wobble the rotor to loosen the outer bearing, pull out the bearing (bearings need to be kept surgically clean), and pull off the rotor.
If you're installing a new rotor, you probably may as well install new bearings and races (they're cheap). If not, then repack the bearings with wheel bearing grease before you reassemble.
Installation is, as they say, the reverse of removal. Consult your manual for the proper technique to torque the wheel bearings - there were a couple of different ones.

- Eric

 

Sounds simple enough thanks MD

 

I always thought so. It's just painful and difficult, because everything's dirty and rusted together, and you're bending forward into the wheelwell and keep banging your knuckles, and have no room to swing a hammer or use a really long wrench.

- Eric

 

Haha I hate those areas lol

 

Do one side at a time, leave the other side complete. This way if you can't remember how it goes back together you have a mirror image of it on the other side to compare to.


Clean all bearings thoroughly in the front with naptha or some other solvent (gasoline works well also). Wipe the races and inspect for pits and/or discoloration before you repack them.

 

Thanks oldcutlass I'll do that I'm gonna be recording video when I do it so I can see everytbing

 

About to upload pics unfortunately I don't think having the brakes ground down will help

 

http://s758.photobucket.com/user/16o...library/brakes

 

That's the front drivers side

 

If those are straight, they should be able to be cut.

You may end up with some very slight pitting, but it won't affect anything - heck the road racer boys drill holes all over theirs.

- Eric

 

that's my concern when I rub my hand across it I feel a dip near the putter edge

 

I've never heard of one that was so warped you could feel it with your hands.

See if there's a local shop you can bring 'em to and have them chuck them up in their lathe and spin them before trying to cut them.
If you go in and tell them a true story - "I'm a sixteen year old with his first car that I'm trying to get running, and I don't have a lot of scratch, so I want to try to save these if they're savable" - they might treat you nice.

- Eric

 

ok all ik is I need this done right lol

 

Outside of all the surface rust, it doesn't look that bad.

 

can I reuse the calipers? I'm thinking know but hey if I can more power to me

 

It's almost the same price, I believe to buy rebuilts as it is to rebuild the old ones.

 

ok well I'll buy new but I'm having trouble ik what I need but Idk what to get there's many variants if someone could go on rock auto and get me a list of part numbers to order I'd appreciate it its pretty confusing lol

 

I have shocks and springs covered but I want to make sure I get the right things for the brakes

 

In your case I would carry them down to the local Napa store. The reason I say Napa is they usually have quality parts. Tell them your car info and they will have or can have within a few hours the parts you need. If there are any issues they are close by and can get it corrected easily.

 

ok I was gonna go through rock auto so that I can get things cheaper can I just get the parts number for the part off of napas site and order it through rock auto?

 

Some of Napa parts are made or private labeled for them so the part #'s may be different. Rockauto sells quality stuff and I use them all the time, some stuff I just buy local because it's easier to exchange if there is an issue.

 

ok that's true saves Hassel on shipping

 

Remember that RockAuto will charge shipping, so even if NAPA (or Advance, or CarQuest, or O'Reilly, or [shudder] AutoZone) charges slightly more, they may still be cheaper.

Also, your calipers may be fine. I'd get the rotors cut and get new pads and see how they work. If they leak or bind, then get new ones.

And what's this about springs? Your car is sitting fine in the pictures. Don't waste your money on something you don't need.
You can always waste it later, if you want to, once the car is running and you're driving around in it.

- Eric

 

ok and the reason I was gonna do springs is I would have it apart to do the shocks so I was gonna kill two birds with one stone and save time later

 

After forty years, springs either sag or they don't. Yours look like they're not sagging.

If you want to lower it or do some freaky thing later, you can get the springs you need then.

- Eric

 

ok I see your point didn't know that about springs thanks for that what about shocks what are the best ones for the money