And Here we go...
Prime, Block and repeat...this is getting old
this priming blocking and repeating is getting old....
I ordered a parts place OAI hood fiber over metal...it is in my price range and I did not want to dish out 2500 for a thornton or a used one that I found in ontario ( that had some rust )
My hood is back order until the end of October ...by that time I will have the body ready or at least I hope.
I have to start with the side trim fitment. My trim is not perfect but it will clean up nice enough for a driver.
***update***hood is on the way...hope I am not getting a return ??
I ordered a parts place OAI hood fiber over metal...it is in my price range and I did not want to dish out 2500 for a thornton or a used one that I found in ontario ( that had some rust )
My hood is back order until the end of October ...by that time I will have the body ready or at least I hope.
I have to start with the side trim fitment. My trim is not perfect but it will clean up nice enough for a driver.
***update***hood is on the way...hope I am not getting a return ??
Last edited by CLcutlass; Sep 17, 2013 at 06:06 PM.
hood arrived
Well my hood arrived today…for all the travel it is in pretty good shape. I never got a chance to fully inspect or measure it yet but I am pleased with first impressions considering the cost of this. There appears to be a small issue on one spot that I can easily repair…it is not from shipping I don’t believe and I am not too concerned about it since this thing needs to be epoxied…2k, etc.
on closer inspection of the hood it took a knock on one corner...I repaired it with fiberglass and now it is ready for block sanding...2 coats of epoxy and 3 coats of 2K.
hood hinges were sandblasted and done with eastwood spray gray.
I also put one final coat of 2 K on the car...not the first time I said that !
hood hinges were sandblasted and done with eastwood spray gray.
I also put one final coat of 2 K on the car...not the first time I said that !
Hi Allen....I think I am going with a period correct color...sherwood forest green. The car had aspen green from factory but I am not sure about that.
I dont think I am going to spray this myself...I am going to do the jams and underpanels and have got a friend who is going to do the rest.
on closer inspection of the hood it took a knock on one corner...I repaired it with fiberglass and now it is ready for block sanding...2 coats of epoxy and 3 coats of 2K.
hood hinges were sandblasted and done with eastwood spray gray.
I also put one final coat of 2 K on the car...not the first time I said that !
hood hinges were sandblasted and done with eastwood spray gray.
I also put one final coat of 2 K on the car...not the first time I said that !
ok...I thought with all that primer on the new hood and it looked pretty flat that would take off the gude coat and I was done. Not so...there was some high and low spots that will need some extra work. If I had to use a spray on filler it may be ok.
over and over....
ok....I have a plan to get this in color sometime before the end of the year....seems I keep putting the 2 k on and taking it off. The good news is it is looking straighter each time.
Last edited by CLcutlass; Nov 5, 2013 at 05:18 PM.
forgot to mention that I backed it out on the street last week and smoked them
Last edited by CLcutlass; Nov 5, 2013 at 05:18 PM.
hey its always good to take a break and have a little fun
it helps you to stay focused on the prize !!!
finally some color
finally some color....well it warmed enough for me to finally lay some color. I did the jambs, cowl and trunk area but I thinl I will leave the rest to a more seasoned person. It turned out ok considering I did it..
I think we've all felt that way from time to time. From your comment it sounds like you're not really 100% satisfied with it? You can always sand away and redo areas or the finish you're not happy with. Great way to gain experience and still save some $$$. Is the color enamel or did you lay down BC/CC? I'm also curious if you'r putting side molding back on. Reason for the ask is I noticed the hole in the pinch weld area where the trim is fastened. If it's not going to have trim, this is also a perfect time to go back and weld those holes shut....wish I'd thought of that on my car.
I think we've all felt that way from time to time. From your comment it sounds like you're not really 100% satisfied with it? You can always sand away and redo areas or the finish you're not happy with. Great way to gain experience and still save some $$$. Is the color enamel or did you lay down BC/CC? I'm also curious if you'r putting side molding back on. Reason for the ask is I noticed the hole in the pinch weld area where the trim is fastened. If it's not going to have trim, this is also a perfect time to go back and weld those holes shut....wish I'd thought of that on my car.
I am planning on putting the moulding back on....I like the look of it. My rear quarter moulding is not the best but not that bad.
I am going to a good guys swap meet in orlando...hoping to get lucky on a used set.
The side molding is stainless steel, so even if you find a set that has a bit of dings, it can be smoothed out and polished to look like new. Do you still have the mounting posts that were on the quarters, doors and fenders?
On what I have the door and fender is stainless but the rear quarters is a cast/pot metal trim.
I ordered the posts that the parts place sells to put on the doors, they turned out pretty good . The rest have posts on the trim.
My stainless trim cleaned up really good.
d'ohhh, I forgot it was a Supreme....Yes, the only piece of trim that's stainless is the door, everything else is pot. Whatever you do, don't lose those 'shorty' wheel opening moldings. They seem to be pretty scarce. Those are SS BTW and can be fixed/restored/polished.
one is in good shape..the other took some knocks. I look forward to putting that stuff back on...at least I will be close then.
I am trying to figure out how to put those curved fender braces that were used on 455's. I purchased a set from the parts place. The AM is not clear to me. They hardly look like they will fit.
Also were these painted from the factory ?
Also were these painted from the factory ?
moved on to trim
I got the braces on....PITA.
Moved on to trim parts as still too cold here to do painting. Could not find the dull aluminium at canadian tire, walmart, home depot but found this can of flat aluminium paint that looks great. It was a perfect match...hope it sticks. The trunk splatter paint from eastwood looks good. I only have 2 coats of clear on there.
Moved on to trim parts as still too cold here to do painting. Could not find the dull aluminium at canadian tire, walmart, home depot but found this can of flat aluminium paint that looks great. It was a perfect match...hope it sticks. The trunk splatter paint from eastwood looks good. I only have 2 coats of clear on there.
more guide coat ....ahhhh
So my painter can to evaluate my body work....he said I did a pretty good job...but, I need to fix this...and this....and this..
He told me I need one more round of primer and guide coat. But he gave me some great tips.
He told me I need one more round of primer and guide coat. But he gave me some great tips.
well...dang
I am ready to send the car to paint finally. Decided to put the hood on for shipment instead of shipping seperately. I am really stuck here.....
I tried to put all the fender shims back in the same place...ony had a few on the DS fender but when I attach the hood from the parts place it does not close square.
corner to corner with the hood off...I am about 1/4 out...not sure if that is too much. When I close the hood it is kind off twisted a bit...hits on PS front and DS rear.
I took the hinges off and laid in place and still tight on the sides and front. there were never any shims where the cowel bolts to the fenders.
I am close to 1 cm ( 6-7 mm) off on the front cowl height whem measured to floor...is this acceptable
I dont have the front fender bracket ( bottom with the rubber ) installed yet ....will they help widen the fender spacing.
Any suggestions on what to do here ?
I am ready to send the car to paint finally. Decided to put the hood on for shipment instead of shipping seperately. I am really stuck here.....
I tried to put all the fender shims back in the same place...ony had a few on the DS fender but when I attach the hood from the parts place it does not close square.
corner to corner with the hood off...I am about 1/4 out...not sure if that is too much. When I close the hood it is kind off twisted a bit...hits on PS front and DS rear.
I took the hinges off and laid in place and still tight on the sides and front. there were never any shims where the cowel bolts to the fenders.
I am close to 1 cm ( 6-7 mm) off on the front cowl height whem measured to floor...is this acceptable
I dont have the front fender bracket ( bottom with the rubber ) installed yet ....will they help widen the fender spacing.
Any suggestions on what to do here ?
turned out all I needed was an extra set of hands....a few shims, more patience and a couple of cold beer.
I dont think this hood will fit without shims on the front. Any idea how large the holes in the hood should be for the pins. With the pins do you keep all the other latches ?
Looks good!
If the hood has a metal bottom liner you can use the original hood latching system in addition to the tie downs. That's how the original cars were. Sorry, I didn't see if your hood was all fibreglass or whether it was OEM style with metal bottom.
I don't have a W25 hood or I'd be able to tell you what the hole size is.
If the hood has a metal bottom liner you can use the original hood latching system in addition to the tie downs. That's how the original cars were. Sorry, I didn't see if your hood was all fibreglass or whether it was OEM style with metal bottom.
I don't have a W25 hood or I'd be able to tell you what the hole size is.
Looks good!
If the hood has a metal bottom liner you can use the original hood latching system in addition to the tie downs. That's how the original cars were. Sorry, I didn't see if your hood was all fibreglass or whether it was OEM style with metal bottom.
I don't have a W25 hood or I'd be able to tell you what the hole size is.
If the hood has a metal bottom liner you can use the original hood latching system in addition to the tie downs. That's how the original cars were. Sorry, I didn't see if your hood was all fibreglass or whether it was OEM style with metal bottom.
I don't have a W25 hood or I'd be able to tell you what the hole size is.
Thanks....it is a metal inner piece but not the high end unit. I'll just make the holes big enough to work.
Off to paint next week...hopefully. Still have to make some minor adjustments on the panels.
OAI filter and hood clearance
I wanted one of those functioning OAI for my build so I brought the set from the parts place....I am having clearance issues. I can get the hood closed but not way will this sit against a screen. I dont want to send it back or sell it but I am not sure what the next step is.
Heres the story...
changed 350 to 455 and kept mounts....read on CO that it wont make a difference in the height.
Changed the stock intake to a edlebrock performer 455
have a 670 street performer carb.
Parts place OAI hood.
Is there a mount issue ??...or is the edlebrock performer causing the grief.
Heres the story...
changed 350 to 455 and kept mounts....read on CO that it wont make a difference in the height.
Changed the stock intake to a edlebrock performer 455
have a 670 street performer carb.
Parts place OAI hood.
Is there a mount issue ??...or is the edlebrock performer causing the grief.


