Allan R

Been there. That's why when I tag and bag, everything goes into a storage box. Nothing like semi organized. It saved me a ton of time looking for stuff. You're gonna kick yourself when you find those suckers hiding in plain sight...

CLcutlass

Low and behold while looking for someting else....there they were right in a tagged bag in the bankers box right where I put them. Oh well ...will have a nice new shiney set with some new shims in a couple of days. Hoping to have the chassis rolling in a couple of weeks.

CLcutlass

mixed emotions on this stuff.....looks good after a coat of diamond clear and black rust inhibitor. This is a before and after right out of the solution. I blasted the bolts first.

Allan R

I was going to try that stuff too, but since they won't ship through the mail I decided to just wire wheel and paint. Here's how my upper control arm bolts/nuts turned out after about 1 1/2 hours. Takes time to get good results. I've also tried soaking rusty bolts in vinegar for a couple of days. Does a reasonable job too, just takes a lot longer than I have patience for.

CLcutlass

awesome job....well one thing about that eastwood product it only took a couple of minutes.

CLcutlass

I neglected to take a pic of my stablizer and I am a little confuzed about the re-install. On the round side there is a letter C... on the square end there is no stamping. The CSM states to put the identifier on the right which is the round side but the CSM also has a C listed in teh chart with a square end. Which side go where ???

Also I am a bit leary of torquing up the bracket and the new rubber on the .92 " bar....seems like it will be difficult to get the brackets to go tight to the frame. I got the rubber from Fusick. Anyone know the moog p/n ?

Allan R

What part about installing the stabilizer confuses you? It only fits one way. The ends you are referring to were used by the factory to determine which car (vert, or perform) got which stabilizer bar. The link kit can be put in 'upside down' or 'right side up'. It doesn't matter much unless you're doing concourse restos. Those bushings snug down nicely too.

re: the stabilizer bushing and bracket? The bolts are self tapping and will snug in nicely. The fear you have was shared by a few of us. After the fact, here's the bottom line. Install the bushing with the split toward the front. Then snug the bolts down to 30 ft/lbs. The bushing rubber will squeeze down really nicely with actually very little effort.

CLcutlass

Hi Allan,

I still have the car frame suspended from my lift with no weight on the wheels...I do not have them all together. Basically the only thing I have done is the control arm, springs and spindles in. When I put in the stabilizer the links kits are not lining up perfect and I am having trouble getting all the pieces on. I was wondering if the arm was upside down but I did not think it was.

I may have the slit toward the back on the bracket as well...will check tommorow night.

Thanks for your help.

Allan R

When I did my front suspension, I had no weight on the control arms either. Once you have the upper/lower ball joints and spindle connected and torqued, it shouldn't make any difference. I'll assume you put in new stabilizer link kits. What do you mean when you say it's not lining up perfectly? I assembled mine loose (so yes there is a lot of slop to start with) then tightened them with my air ratchet. (same for the stab bushings/brackets). Tighten the links 1/2 way on each side, then do them up the rest of the way. I put mine in so the bolt head is close to the upper control arm (opposite of the factory install) because it was much easier to do it that way. Don't get any interference on the upper ball joint castle nut.

CLcutlass

Thanks for the advice...got it done now, I did have the slit in the rubber wrong. One thing that I am wondering about is where do the tapered part of the spring sit in the lower control arm. I am refering to the end of the spring.

Allan R

You're putting the spring in upside down if you do it that way. The way I'm reading this is that you are putting the 'flat' part of the spring into the LCA. That's wrong. The heavy cutoff end goes to the bottom LCA. The LCA has a pressed ridge the spring end butts up against to ensure it's in the right place. You should also refer to the Assembly Manual or CSM for proper spring placement. It will wiggle around using hand force to get it to the right spot.

CLcutlass

starting to come together

CLcutlass

%$#*....I watched a video where the guy said to do it that way. I did not see this pressed ridge that you are talking about. It only took me about 10 min to get the last one in but now I have everything in it is a PITA.

CLcutlass

The AM shows it perfectly clear...kicking myself for not looking at that.

Allan R

Sorry to be the 'messenger of bad news', but on the good side, putting the spring in right will make all the difference in how the car sits and rides. When you took out the LCA, you must have noticed that little ridge in the bottom of the spring seat - along with the drain hole. Just probably forgot what it was for. The 'flat' side of the spring sits up in the frame seat where the support is flat - a perfect match.

I totally understand the frustration of taking something apart after it's all together. Done that plenty rebuilding my front end. Good thing though is you're working with new parts that aren't all coated with grime/grease or been in for 40 years!

CLcutlass

Apart from the ball joints/link kits I am reusing all the front end metal parts. I cleaned them up real good and used some new energy suspension boots. The springs are new.

Allan R

Pretty much what I did too, except I kept my old springs. They were proper ride height. So I spent a couple hours on each one cleaning, sanding and painting them. Turned out really nice. It's all detailed in one of my albums. Still have to finish off the inner fender liners, bleed the brakes and torque the upper/lower control arms.

CLcutlass

Hi Allan,

I went back to an old post I had on here....not sure how to share it with you so I am going to run something by you. I am switching from a 70 350 to a 455 that came out of a 68 delta 88. I used the frame and motor mounts off the 350 and place 455 on the frame tonight....milestone. (I never had the heart to face those springs tonight and needed something more positive.) I purchased a set of headers that were second hand but new in the box...I think they are flowtech. They look like they will never fit in there just as it sits on the frame now...and I do not have a starter or brake dist block installed. I am starting to wonder if there is someting wrong with the headers or if I have something mounted wrong. Fusick sells a mounting kit for a 350 to 455 conversion but I read on here ( somewhere ) that you do not need to use that. Any advice....I would like to use the manifolds but would like to have a dual exhaust.

Allan R

Well, not sure on the headers. They are a personal choice - some people swear by them. As far as dual exhausts? You can keep the stock manifolds on the 455 and just block of the one side with a metal block plate, then run the pipes straight back. Or you can pony up about 300 + shipping and get the W / Z dual exhaust manifolds from Thornton's for that big block.

I think you should consider changing the engine mounts on general principle. They are cheap and the old ones may be starting to stress crumple. Jim had that happen on his 70 455. That may be why you're looking at such reduced clearances for the headers.

Curtiss has a 70 Cutlass with headers. There is NO clearance on his at all between the headers and starter. The moron who put the headers on actually cut the dip tube shaft and left the dipstick out because it would be pressing on the side of the headers and coming into contact with the battery lead. It all has to come off to fix that now.

If you're asking whether headers are a good idea? I'm not the guy you want to talk to. I've had too many bad experiences with them. When you bought those Flowtech's did you check to see that they were for a 455?

CLcutlass

Hi Allen...I think that I am going to ditch the headers and stick with a set of manifolds. I just have to decide whether to reuse the ones that came on the 68 engine...or bolt the 350's to the 455. I hear they will work.

CLcutlass

Here are a couple of pics I took today...soon be finished withthe chassis and on to the body.

costpenn

Lookin good!!!

CLcutlass

Well...bit of a setback today. I learned on this site in the transmission section that my TH400 that came out of a delta 88 does not have a plug where the speedometer goes. I want a speedometer so I can't use that.


I am going to put the orgional TH350 back in. Instead of taking the time to clean it up this time I am going to bring it to a shop to get it checked out and re-sealed. It was leaking a bit.

CLcutlass

Thought I was going to have my chassis rolling by the end of may but the tranny issue has set me back. I decided to keep m 350TH and just change all the external seals myself. While waiting for the parts...I am off to the body. Started by stripping the undercoating in one of the rear wheel wells. I have tried three methods...heat gun, propane tourch and needle scraper. All three worked but I think that I going to stay with the tourch. the needle scaler was loud as hell...cant hear the tunes in the background, plus it was messy. The tourch made more of a smell but was quick. There are a couple of area that need patching that I am going to try myself.

CLcutlass

thanks man...I am having fun as well.

Allan R

The torch seems to have worked really well. Most of it looks pretty solid. I envy you guys who can fabricate and fix those holes and rust. Glad to hear you have a plan for the tranny. Your front end pic of the engine side and r.f. suspension reminds me of the living hell I went through doing that last year. Only you don't have the rest of the car around to make it more fun!!

CLcutlass

Believe me I'm no pro but I an going to try and patch it up. I have access to a few good welders if I can't pull it off. I can imagine it being a lot tougher with the rest of the car intact.

CLcutlass

front cowl in rust encapsualtor...coat of underhood black tomorrow.

motor brackets blasted waiting for underhood black from eastwood.

hood latch blasted and blackened with eastwood product.

Brake line kit I ordered is awesome fit

Allan R

Looking really good. Did you get the brake lines from ILT? Got a set last year, but haven't straightened them out for installation yet. Looks like you went with new Prop valve too.

CLcutlass

yes the kit came from ILT...opted for the stainless for the little extra.

No the prop valve is just cleaned up and hit with some gold engine paint I had.

CLcutlass

Had to steer myself back on course. I started at the body while I still had work to do on the frame. As much as it hurt I had to get my springs in the right orientation...a little easier the second time around. Painted the fan, pullies etc....have the OEM altenator but I like the chrome one better

Allan R

Everytime I see these frame off resto's and new lines being run, I kind of get the itch to lift the body and do that to. I need a helper and more lifting power I think.

CLcutlass

And I am almost regretting starting this...at least last year I had something to drive. Wonder will the wife let me get something else in the meantime

Allan R

Of course she will. Just go buy what you want. It's much easier to ask forgiveness than permission.

CLcutlass

We finally back at it....we had such good weather that it seems like every weekend we are gone somewhere.

Finished the chassis and now on to the body full time. Finally using the rotisserie. Attached is a pic of removing the undercoat....still nice an black under all that undercoat. Torch and nice wide metal scraper works well. Plan is to clean it up and give it a good coat of POR15. I am going to undercoat the rear wells again.

At this pace I may be finished by the time my kid gets his license.

CLcutlass

well here it is first coat....may get the body back on the fram by Sept after all. Got to do some seam sealing before the next coat.

CLcutlass

off comes the old paint...not too bad, only been repainted once. Started using stripper...to slow and messy. I am using the eastwood stripper discs/ paint removal pads. these are prtty good...very little heat and no gouges.

CLcutlass

My kid is actually wanting to paint the car green...his favorite color I am not sold on the green but the car was orgionally green

Allan R

You're making good progress there. Keep at it and go light on the sanding. I learned that the hard way.

re: color? If you want green, expand your horizons on the color index. My car was originally code 14 pewter silver. I didn't really like it so I expanded my color choice to a 1978 Corvette silver. I'm glad I did and would do it again.

Paint is a very personal thing. The good thing about it is you can always change it if you don't really like it. Kind of a pain after you already have the jambs done, just more work.

Also re: the bumper? The only thing different about the 70 from the one I got is the tail lights being vertical. Other than that it should be identical. Based on mine, I would still recommend the Tamraz bumper with cutouts. I will probably have a used set of trumpet flares if you're interested. What size exhaust are you going with?

CLcutlass

I am really not sure what I am going with for exhaust....I was considering the inline tube OEM kit for a 455 for the ease of bolt up but my manifolds are not from a dual ( 68 delta 88 ) and that kit is expensive. I priced a set from the thorton but I am still waiting for shipping price.

If you still got the tips when I decide I will look you up....thanks