Its the performer manifold. Need to have the carb base milled down and holes retapped to accomdate the OAI setup because its about 1.5 inches taller than stock intake.

 

Thanks....thats what I seem to be finding. Will deal with this over the winter

 

Well another milestone day...in colour and I am pleased with it. I did a pretty good job getting this thing straight for a rookie. I did not lay the color. The painter just laid the color and clear on.

It is not cut and buffed yet....will wait awhile for that. Not sure if I am brave enough for that myself yet.


Now lets see if I can get this together without scratching the hell out of this.

 

Nice! Congrats

 

Thanks...

 

Body looks straight. Great job!

Dave

 

OOOOh That looks real purdy.

From the pictures it looks straight as an arrow, great job.

Scott

 

Looks great. I'm guessing that since the wheels aren't painted you'll be putting a different rim/tire combo on?

BTW, Love the rope holding the steering wheel!

 

haha..with no seats the rope was my safety net.

I am going to a gray rim color..keeping the same tires I just have to scuff them back to life. I would like to have 15" of the same style but have to wear these out first....or try and sell them

 

picking at the grills and trim. Can't seem to locate my headlight adjustment screws....I know I have them.

Switching gears a little< i just recased my rear seat bottom..pic to follow.

Did anyone ever use that roof material from home depot. I seen it on u tube and it is a hell of a lot cheaper than dynamat.

 

Never used it, but from what I've heard, it works really well if you don't mind the smell.

Scott

 

Hey guys:
Here is an alternative to DynaMat that's about 30% cheaper. It works on the same physical principles as DynaMat, (constrained layer damping) and it comes in two thicknesses, 45 mil and 60 mil. Follow the link to check it out.

http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html

Rodney

 

 

[QUOTE=cdrod;737962]Hey guys:
Here is an alternative to DynaMat that's about 30% cheaper. It works on the same physical principles as DynaMat, (constrained layer damping) and it comes in two thicknesses, 45 mil and 60 mil. Follow the link to check it out.

http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html

Rodney[/QUOTE


Thanks....I'll check it out . any of this stuff is heavy and shipping is bad here

 

mixed emotions here..

back seat bottom I recased and it looks great. The upper section I did not do and am not sure if I want to try and put on a new cover. It is in good shape and pretty close to the new color. I am afraid if I take the cover off the cotton will fall apart.

I did the front seat before the overhaul...very first thing I did when I brought it.

 

does anyone have a link or can you provide some tips on how to put on drip rail mouldings.

I picked up a good used set and I dont want to damage them. Whoever put mine on before damaged the hell ut of them.

 

This should help.

Scott

 

 

got the trim on the drip rails...with an extra set of hands. Only one small dent.

Its been that long since I took out the rear quarter glass....i cant seem to get it to go back in. as it interfers with the top. Any suggestions ?

 

weatherstripping question/pic

Anyone have a pic of how the weatherstrip ties into the quarter glass ? I have it in place but it does not look right. Took lots of pics...none of this.

 

doors and weatherstripping

installed new weatherstripping on the doors...now they dont close right/align with quarter....with this get better with time. Without it the close/align fine.

Should mention that I uses glue on the doors as well....the kit was from steel rubber. Not sure if I was supposed to ?

 

Can you post a pic? They should not interfere with the alignment of the door...

 

Here you go....wow the camera shows the dust

 

Pic of the weatherstrip with car door open. Will the door close properly when the glass is down?

 

Hi Allan...here you go. Just tried it with the window down..still not correct but I have some looseness in that I can push the doors in a little. It seems to close a bit better.

These are not the doors that came off the car...are there any adjustments on the doors ? ..besides moving the striker.

 

pics with door open

 

another

 

The rubber seems to be 'leaning in' too much compared to mine which is OEM. Yes, you can adjust the door outward at the front hinge plates by loosening those 3 bolts that attach the door to the hinge. Just make sure you have someone helping you and there's some support under the door. It's buggerishly heavy as you probably know. If your sheet metal already is lined up properly, this isn't the time to start re-aligning it. The door should close firmly with the rubber installed. It should close very easily with the window down, but a bit of a slam with the window up.

There are only some parts of the door seal that are supposed to be glued with the 3M butyl. The rest of it should have plastic pins that locate the rubber on the sheet metal.

 

The door closed well without the rubber ans seems to be getting better...I may wait it out and see what happpens. I played with the front hinges enough already and I agree now is not the time to go there again.

 

found these in a box marked interior....went thru my dismantle pics and dont see what it is.

Anyone have any idea ....I dont have my doors all buttoned up yet...or seat belts in.

 

is it the part that goes on top of the door that the door panel hangs onto ? I havent seen mine in a while but that comes to mind

haha just scrolled up and saw your door pics thats not it...so consider this a free bump

 

Those look like window stops, used to set the upper and lower limits of the window regulators.

 

Thats what I thught as well...but they are already there..and look different. Unless there is another set.

 

Not should I put this in the engine forum or not...Took the car for the first test drive tonight..and it needs some work.
Sounded good....but when engine got hot it was hard to start...would not start until cooled. I don't have a heat shield on the starter but I do have the one from the 350.
Also...for a freshly rebuilt 455 .....the old 350 had what seemed like more pep. May call in a fried to check the setup/ timing.


What should the oil pressure be when the engine is hot?

 

seen on a the engine forum to adjust the timing to 34 @ 2400-2500rpm. Did that and it made a huge improvement. Lots of pep and power....idles a little high for my liking now however.

 

Just turn your idle speed adjustment screw on the carb. Your project is looking great.

 

What exactly is the idle speed? Are you using the CSM specs for tuning?

 

I am out of room on the adjustment I think...will take another look. Have not touched anything on this out of the box holly so there may be a few things that can be done.

 

I'll have to hook my temp tack back up and check. Should replace my clock with a tach. I am guessing 1000 rpm

I have not set against the CSM specs...I tried the initial timing from the csm,

 

I checked with a tach today...my idle is at 1100 rpm and I don't like it. The thing really has a lot of power on take off from standstill but I noticed today a bit of a a ping/gas knock when I step it down especially on a hill. I hope its the gas and not my timing.

i liked it when it idled a bit choppy but it did not have the power.

Spoke to a guy I know and he said I probably have too much vacuum on the holly...it will be a month before he can look at it. may have to figure this one out on here