CLcutlass

Thanks Allan...I have a quart of satin black so my plan is to reduce it and spray. There are a few bad spots there but I can patch that up. I need to pull the dash pad off to spray it right. Not looking forward to that.

Allan R

A quart is plenty. Take your time removing the dash pad. Do you need the exploded view to help out or have you got a CSM and AM for the car yet. If you break any of the plastic mounts, they can be repaired with JB Weld. For the dash re-color, you will need to clean, prep first for adhesion. Lots of guys doing this use SEM product and have posted really good results. You can also just re-dye it - doesn't cost a lot. Here's the SEM website link if you're interested http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=191. You can use this stuff on all the black trim on the interior.

Rickman48

Don't know if it's the picture, angle of the tire, or what, but it seems to me that the left frame rail is bent out a couple of inches.
Hope I'm wrong, but it wouldnt hurt to find the correct measurement and check it!
Were the core support bolts on any kind of angle?
There's a certain amount of room to be 'within spec' but being on the 'high side' doesn't leave much more room for adjustment!!
I'd measure it, just to be safe, even if it is a 'optical illusion' to this old man!
Great job, BTW, and keep the kid interested!
My Dad was a Ford mechanic, and I was out in the garage at about the same age!
Was a little upset when I took the head off the Briggs + Stratton lawnmower @ 10, because it wouldn't start, but had it running by dinnertime!

CLcutlass

Never noticed anything bent and the support bolts were in staight from what I remember. I will measure everything up when I have the frame on stands

CLcutlass

I do have the CSM ..what is the AM ? I have the Fisher Body service manual ?

CLcutlass

Body mount cage bolt is spinning....any ideas. I snapped of a mount bolt while removing the frame. I thought that I was going just weld a nut on what was left and back it out. Thought it was working but now the cage nut is spinning. Think that I am screwed here....It is the one in the rear....do I have to cut a hole in the trunk ?

CLcutlass

Here is the body coming off....

CLcutlass

next warm day this is going olds blue...that old intake is just laid there so I do not get paint on the new edelbrock. That is a high heat primer on there.

starfire

AM is the Assembly Manual.

Go to: www.wildaboutcars.com and register (for free), then you can look at the 1970 Assembly Manual (for free).

Allan R

AM is short for "Morning". You are only allowed to work on your car in the AM...after coffee....ok now measure your left leg and see if it's longer than your right one! Assembly Manual. Sorry I should have spelled it out.

Looking Good. Did someone paint that car green at one time? Looks like green on the cowl (drivers side). Whle you've got th body off, check the frame numbers to see if the VIN will match up. ref: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ped-frame.html

X2 and thx Starfire. Excellent Advice for anyone. I use that site and refer it a lot myself!

CLcutlass

Thanks Starfire...lots of good info there.

Allan From what I can tell the green is the orgional colour. I got the body off and drivetrain out....I will check the vin...Thanks

Allan R

Green exterior paint codes for 70 were:
45 - Aspen Green
48 - Sherwood Green

You won't find this on the VIN, it will be on the cowl tag next to the PNT stamping. Probably will show as 45 45 or 48 48. This means same upper color as lower.

CLcutlass

Awesome Allan thanks..

I am about to take apart my front end....I seen a nice thread on here somewhere did this restoration but cant find it now. Any help ? I want to salvage what I can but I expect to be buying some new parts. I think my front springs are toast for a start.

CLcutlass

what a day....got the control arms of one side and steering linkages off. Can't wait to start doing some rebuilding instead of teardown....I need a beer.

Not looking forward to removing the bushings and installing new ones.

Allan R

You've got most of the hard work already done. Bushings are ok as long as you have the bushing press. That kit is amazing - honest. Once you use it you will want to replace everyone's bushings just for fun...

I started out using the Ball Joint Press. Awkward to say the least - except on the LBJs.

I know how you feel. Now go have that beer.

CLcutlass

Will the princess auto kit do ? I see they have one online.

CLcutlass

After fighting with a driver side upper control arm bolt...last one of course I finally have the chassis stipped down. Now to load it on my skidoo trailer and haul it of to the sandblaster on Tuesday. Thought of trying it myself but I would need to buy a lot of supplies. I'll post some pics when I get it back.

Allan R

Got a part number? The only press kit I saw on line was for ball joints/universals. Where abouts are you? If there's a Partsource near you, most of them have tool loaner programs so you don't have to go and buy all this stuff. You pay a deposit that gets returned when you return the tool. The Ball Joint press will work for taking out the bushings, but you have to make some of your own spacers to prevent collapsing the 2 ears where the bushings sit.


Yeah the UCA shaft bolts are a royal PITA. Hope you followed the info in the CSM and didn't pry against the steering shaft. It will be a good idea to replace those splined bolts with new ones - they run about 24.00 a set at ILT and fusicks. I bought ILT ones and am very happy with them.

Farming out the sandblast is the best way to go IMO. Is the price reasonable in your area?

CLcutlass

I was at princess auto today and looked at their kit...pn 8363814. I am just outside of St.John's NL...no parts source.
I cannot see how that thing would work. I do have the ball joint press and I am going to try that out. I did not pry against the steering shaft from what I remember but I did not follow the CSM. I have to but a new UCA bolt because I had to cut the head off and air hammer the bloody thing out, it was the bushing bolt I had trouble with.

I got a price of 300.00 for the sandblast job...he would have painted it for 700 but I already picked up the Eastwood ceramic and encapuslator kit. I'll post some pics when I get it back. I have a small booth here for the smaller items....never tried it out yet.

Allan R

I also don't see how that bushing kit would help you, it's not even close to the one I used and has no 'c' clips that you need to press the upper shaft bushings out.

I ended up using the ball joint kit for most of my work. Borrowed a busing press kit from a mechanic to put in the last 2 upper control arm bushings though. I learned how to do all this stuff last summer (very interesting learning experience) and got caught up in the dreaded "might as well' syndrome.... this is my thread that shows the progress and also some of the mistakes you could run into. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post321575
My bushings and upper ball joints were originals so everything had 39 years of rust holding it tight

Rob Young has a better description and picture thread than I do that shows how he role modeled the bushings removal/replacement for me: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post287763

300 for sandblast sounds like a good price for your area. Are you planning to spray the encapsulator or do it by hand? I like the idea of spraying because you can get into the frame holes with it.

If you run into any issues with your control arms or bushings let us know and we'll jump in with suggestions / answers.

CLcutlass

Awesome...thanks for the help. Good threads...I am sure I will have to revisit.

I plan on spraying the encapsulator...I also purchased a couple cans of the eastwood internal frame spray to use first.

CLcutlass

While waiting for my frame to get blasted I figured I get some prices on some front end parts. NAPA only carries front springs for a 70 supreme with a 455 with AC. My car has no AC so will that make much of a difference or should I go to Fusick or Supercars and take the shipping hit.

Allan R

I'm calling BS on them. They can order them in. They probably just don't stock them.
I just went to their site and used 72 442 with a 455 w/o air conditioning. It shows the following:

NCP Part number 2772059
Description Coil Spring - Front - heavy duty
Attribute Features & Benefits:Coil Springs Support Vehicle Load & Maintain Ride Height For Proper Alignment.,
Features & Benefits:Precision Engineered Coil Springs Are Supplied In Matched Sets.
Product Features: Type:One Tangential End; One Square End,I.D.:3.62",Wire Diameter:.69",Load Height:12",# of Coils:9.89,Design Load:1642,Spring Rate:450,Free Height:15.63"
Comment: w/o Air Conditioning - Heavy Duty
Warranty Limited Lifetime

CLcutlass

I will check back with them on the p/n....thanks.

I was looking at the screen as well...maybe we should have selected the 442 instead of the supreme/holiday 2 dr hardtop. I did replace the rear springs with " heavy duty" last year and I had to return them. The ride height was too low. Got the regular duty and she sat just right. Maybe the wrong part came in.

CLcutlass

Got the fram back from the blaster today....cleaned up real nice for a 40 year old canadian Chassis. The car came from Calgary...not too many 40 year olds chassis' from around here.

Snow storm here tonight but I managed to get 2 cans of Eastwood interior chassis coating used. Hope to put a fire in the woodstove tommorow night and paint the chassis. That interior chassis paint really sprayed on well...made a mess on my floor however. I am going to washdown the frame with acetone and use the rust encapsulator and chassis kit from eastwood. The rust in gone but eastwood tells me I can still use the encapsulator.

I saw some stamping on the frame but I an not sure what they are....pics to follow.

Allan R

Most of the really good frames will come from south of Calgary - it's really dry there.

The numbers on the frame are from the VIN of the car the chassis was built for. See this thread for more details about the locations. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ped-frame.html

Lady72nRob71

300 for sandblasting was well worth it. Looks like you are on a cleaner road to reassembly!

CLcutlass

Here are some pics of the frame blasted and with the first coat.

I would have done done the control arms too but I did not face the front bushings yet.

CLcutlass

This is fresh ceramic paint of the engine....also my garage needs a good tidying up.

CLcutlass

It sure was....I asked the guy how much sand he went thru and he told me 2 pots. I thnk that each of his pots holds 7- 25 kg bags. I could not do it for that cheap.

CLcutlass

Final paint on Chassis....waiting for black oxide kit to blacken the OEM bolts/nuts before I put the rear end back in.

Not sure how that is going to work...may end up painting the blasted bolts. Dont want to buy new ones.

Still dont have my front control arms cleaned up with new bushings...rear ones are done.

Allan R

Looking good! I wouldn't have your son in the same room when you do the front control arms and bushings. He might learn some words that he shouldn't know for a few years! Actually it's not that bad. If you got the rears done, I'm guessing you have a press?

Did you find the VIN derivative and factory numbers on your frame?

CLcutlass

I had access to a press , I do not own it but my cousin let me use his garage. It is only a small princess auto jobbie but it worked. I am not looking forward to the front control arms. I do have one sand blasted and ready for paint- 3 to go.

I did find a number behind the wheel well opening 3960733 S(circle) 275 and then 12 16 M1 Xu

I think that there was a number on the passenger side just below the door..14 I think

Allan R

The pic doesn't have the numbers I was looking for. Nice photos BTW.

If it's any consolation? The front control arms aren't that brutal. The lowers are just as easy to do as the rear control arms - just remember to start them straight!. The uppers are a piece of cake with a press. Just do one side, slide in the upper shaft, then press in the last bushing. You will need the "c" clip adapter to press it in right.

Upper ball joints are really easy. Lower ball joints took me all of 5 minutes. And most of that time was setting up the press. Once you get it done you'll breathe a sigh of relief and realize it wasn't all that bad. I know you will be just fine. If I can do it - you sure can.

Willidog

Looks great, wish I had a garage like that to tidy up, or any garage at all for that matter, or even my car here so I could look at it once in a while.

CLcutlass

Have 3/4 of the front control arms sandblasted....soon be ready for primer and paint once I remove the bushings.

Love my new garage sign!

Never cleaned up the rear end cover...getting the after market W27 cover as a gift to myself

CLcutlass

had a bitch of a time getting my upper control arm bushings out...they were in there good and tight. Off on vacation for 10 days...heading to the US on vacation, hoping to get a good price on ball joints while there. Rockauto has good prices...shipping is brutal in my area.

Allan R

Ah ha ha ha ha ha.... Sorry to laugh. Not at you though. It was about the bushings. I learned all the same curse words you did!! You are 100% right in your description. They go back in a lot easier though.

Vacation to the good ol US of A? Enjoy! The bushings aren't all that big as you know, but be prepared for customs to ask you WTH you're doing with them. Have a great vacation. Whereabouts do you hail from? Not in your sig line...

CLcutlass

I hail from the far east of the western world....newfoundland and labrador.
Got thru customs with some parts without any issue. Hoping to paint my control arms this weekend.

CLcutlass

Well I thought I did a great job of bagging and tagging....after finally getting my front control arms blasted, painted, new bushings, etc ...I went to reinstall and I can only find one side of the splined control arm bolts and shims......after hours of looking I reordered them online. I need a drink.