Eddie Hansen's '69 Cutlass Convertible
#321
Congrats...
Glad to hear Eddie. It's better years later than never at all. You're making great progress. Also good job sanding and painting underneath while laying on the concrete mattress. Your back probably wasn't liking you very much but very nice finish product.
#322
Thanks Lil No!!
Thank You Sir, yes it has been a long haul and as I have said elsewhere that money that was meant for the car went elsewhere, or I had to deal with life in General and all that entails in time, money and I guess focus, the good part about the amount of elapsed time is this forum was created, knowledge base is vastly improved, my patience has grown, reproduction parts are better, and I get the best damn advice anywhere on the planet !! Thank you everyone!!
I have made more progress on the car since joining this forum, then the entire 15 years before!!
#323
and your threads no different we see what you do and it inspires us too !!!
nice work so far eddie
#324
I know right you start coming on here and seeing people getting their cars together and show pics and body work and everything else and suddenly your motivated and focused....it helps to to get ideas from other peoples projects for your project....Im tellin ya its great incentive
and your threads no different we see what you do and it inspires us too !!!
nice work so far eddie
and your threads no different we see what you do and it inspires us too !!!
nice work so far eddie
#325
Lifting method
OK here is the spreader bar set up I made for lifting the rear, I took an approximately 32" piece of 2 x 2 square tube, and put some pool tube float on it by splitting it down the middle with a razor and just fitting it over the metal, I mean I know it isn't a show car (yet LOL ) but why scratch the underside paint, I added some threaded rod to the top to keep the chain from squeezing in, it worked like a charm
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
#326
for the front...
I used a 52 Inch piece, I drilled a couplee of holes about 1 inch in from each end and slipped a link into the bar and used a bolt to secure it, I used 5/16th chain from home cheapo, with 1/4 inch hooks into the boxes, it worked very well I stuck a piece of pool noodle between the bar and the firewall just in case
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
#327
mounts..
Allan asked for some pictures and my body mount kit came from in line tube it came with three types of mounts, normal ones which is the single one on the right, the hockey puck type which has no bolt or reinforcement and then these smaller whole mounts
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
#328
smaller hole mounts
I did not use as there were 14 mounts in my kit, I put the standards along the frame and the two hockey pucks under the rear cross brace by the differential
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img811/6017/img5185fc.jpg[/IMG]
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
IMG]http://imageshack.us/a/img811/6017/img5185fc.jpg[/IMG]
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
By thunderboat59 at 2012-09-18
#329
I think?
the mounts with the smaller diameter, and smaller bolt hole would have went in the middle ( under the door) position, and perhaps the hole is smaller to line up the body, smaller hole, less side to side clearance will have to fiddle with alignment more and be darn close. I don't know just throwing it out there, but I did not use them, after speaking with more knowledgeable people there are only the 10 mounts and the two pucks plus the two core support, and that is whjat my assembly manual shows, the extras are probably for cars other than ours, ( pontiacs or buicks) I have heard also 70 chevelles had that.
#330
I agree...
Thank You Sir, yes it has been a long haul and as I have said elsewhere that money that was meant for the car went elsewhere, or I had to deal with life in General and all that entails in time, money and I guess focus, the good part about the amount of elapsed time is this forum was created, knowledge base is vastly improved, my patience has grown, reproduction parts are better, and I get the best damn advice anywhere on the planet !! Thank you everyone!!
I have made more progress on the car since joining this forum, then the entire 15 years before!!
I have made more progress on the car since joining this forum, then the entire 15 years before!!
Keep the pics coming and you have an excellent thread going here. Even motivated me to put rear disc on mine when I get to that point . Now I just need to finish cleaning up and painting the inside shell of the quarter so I can hang and trim the new skin and tack it in.
#331
i know right you start coming on here and seeing people getting their cars together and show pics and body work and everything else and suddenly your motivated and focused....it helps to to get ideas from other peoples projects for your project....im tellin ya its great incentive :d
and your threads no different we see what you do and it inspires us too !!!
Nice work so far eddie
and your threads no different we see what you do and it inspires us too !!!
Nice work so far eddie
#332
Thank You, now get busy mister that elephant isn't going to eat itself LOL.... I will be at the quarters soon, I really can not wait, but I am a bit daunted make no mistake, but I a,so feel confident that with the valuable assistance offered here, we will get it done...
#335
she did help me!!!! at least she left the garage door into the kitchen open so if something did happen, she could speed dial the insurance company's claim department LOL.... J/K she is great and she manned one of the engine hoists when I manned the other and climbed under to check the alignments... I couldn't ask for better!!
Thanks for the Kudos Craig....
#336
frivolous...
spent the weekend cleaning up and doing little odds and ends to complete other bigger chunks like suspension.
I don't know if folks know the goal of the build, but my resto will be completed as a 69 hurst olds tribute,
to me the difference between a tribute and a clone is a clone is making your car exactly like the original, a tribute is taking styling cues and making it your own.
ok so to continue, I replaced the front and rear suspension, I was looking at various shocks, etc and decided that a basic quality shock would suit my purpose, I picked up Monroe sense-a-tracs as others here have used them, and if I don't like them or need something more I haven't spent a ton.
basically they came in at all four for the price of 1 " super shock" and I figured how bad could they be? they will be fine...
so I get 4 from rock auto open the box and well 4 black shocks...
geez louise nothing sexy about these guys..LOL
what to do...
well in keeping with a day 2 hurst olds theme, or a modern interpretation, what about hurst drag shocks? yeah I know don't make em any more, when I was a kid these were Hot...
well an internet search gave me this...
I don't know if folks know the goal of the build, but my resto will be completed as a 69 hurst olds tribute,
to me the difference between a tribute and a clone is a clone is making your car exactly like the original, a tribute is taking styling cues and making it your own.
ok so to continue, I replaced the front and rear suspension, I was looking at various shocks, etc and decided that a basic quality shock would suit my purpose, I picked up Monroe sense-a-tracs as others here have used them, and if I don't like them or need something more I haven't spent a ton.
basically they came in at all four for the price of 1 " super shock" and I figured how bad could they be? they will be fine...
so I get 4 from rock auto open the box and well 4 black shocks...
geez louise nothing sexy about these guys..LOL
what to do...
well in keeping with a day 2 hurst olds theme, or a modern interpretation, what about hurst drag shocks? yeah I know don't make em any more, when I was a kid these were Hot...
well an internet search gave me this...
#337
well these shocks were originally white, that is not going to do for me, stock shocks were gray, HMMMMM nope that won't do either, so off I go to the local parts store, yeehaa... duplicolor wheel spray paint in graphite... best of both worlds LOL...
so I scuff the shockjs, and talpe up the rubber bits...
so I scuff the shockjs, and talpe up the rubber bits...
#339
all four done
so I finished all four the same way, scuffed with a 3m purple scotch brite pad, cleaned after with lacquer thinner, and then sprayed with the graphite wheel paint.
somebody called this yard art LOL... I hear you... behind the shocks is the " beer Garden" I built for the wife for being supportive of the project, it did take a small amount of working time from the project ( a week or so) but somebody also reminded me of happy wife Happy Life LOL.... besides Hello BEER GARDEN!!!!
somebody called this yard art LOL... I hear you... behind the shocks is the " beer Garden" I built for the wife for being supportive of the project, it did take a small amount of working time from the project ( a week or so) but somebody also reminded me of happy wife Happy Life LOL.... besides Hello BEER GARDEN!!!!
#340
I ordered 4 sets of the declas but only 2 sets came 2 were back ordered
well decided to finish the rears
I know it isn't everybody's style and geez you won't see it but if someone is intrepid enough to stick his head under there, he will see a Hurst Drag Shock LOL...
well decided to finish the rears
I know it isn't everybody's style and geez you won't see it but if someone is intrepid enough to stick his head under there, he will see a Hurst Drag Shock LOL...
#341
sooooo
I coated them with the same manufacturer protective clear it buried the decals a little, will do the same for the front when they arrive on Monday and then the install. For some unknown reason I have become crazy for original fasteners so I manged to find original 5/16ths phosphate fasteners for the shocks, grade 8, that cost waaaayyyyy mofre that the stainless steel ones I had...
but OK I am on board....
I also installed the new axle snubbers and I will install the new pinion snubber when I am under there to install the shocks....
till next update.
but OK I am on board....
I also installed the new axle snubbers and I will install the new pinion snubber when I am under there to install the shocks....
till next update.
#342
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Eddie,
Thank you for the body mount pictures. BTW, I love your shock tree - it's impressive. You are going full tilt on the shock resto I see. Strange, for 72 the front shocks are supposed to be gray and the rear black. 69's are cast? I like the look. Don't scratch them putting them in.
How tough was getting the axle snubbers in? I found that my front CA bumpers needed a little vaseline to put that round alignment part through the control arm. I know the design is different for the back. Any tips there?
Thank you for the body mount pictures. BTW, I love your shock tree - it's impressive. You are going full tilt on the shock resto I see. Strange, for 72 the front shocks are supposed to be gray and the rear black. 69's are cast? I like the look. Don't scratch them putting them in.
How tough was getting the axle snubbers in? I found that my front CA bumpers needed a little vaseline to put that round alignment part through the control arm. I know the design is different for the back. Any tips there?
#343
Eddie,
Thank you for the body mount pictures. BTW, I love your shock tree - it's impressive. You are going full tilt on the shock resto I see. Strange, for 72 the front shocks are supposed to be gray and the rear black. 69's are cast? I like the look. Don't scratch them putting them in.
How tough was getting the axle snubbers in? I found that my front CA bumpers needed a little vaseline to put that round alignment part through the control arm. I know the design is different for the back. Any tips there?
Thank you for the body mount pictures. BTW, I love your shock tree - it's impressive. You are going full tilt on the shock resto I see. Strange, for 72 the front shocks are supposed to be gray and the rear black. 69's are cast? I like the look. Don't scratch them putting them in.
How tough was getting the axle snubbers in? I found that my front CA bumpers needed a little vaseline to put that round alignment part through the control arm. I know the design is different for the back. Any tips there?
If you ordered your pinion snubber from the parts place they don't come with the nut, I was disappointed to find out it is a m10x 1.0 thread what's up with that? Lol not the most
common nut to find.
I believe original shocks were gray all around for a 69 plain gray not metallic but the graphite looks great IMHO
#344
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Interesting tip on the micro. Dang! I ordered the rear snubbers and completely forgot about the pinion one. I order mostly from ILT as I've found their quality, professionalism and service outstanding. I need to look at the one in the car. I'm sure you know how it is when you're under there and forget to look 'up' in the right spot.
#345
Eddie,
You are sure making the case to flip that bad boy upside down and make a coffee table out of it! I've yet to see the shinny side of it! Nice work! I love the "Yard Art" maybe you have a second career!
Craig
You are sure making the case to flip that bad boy upside down and make a coffee table out of it! I've yet to see the shinny side of it! Nice work! I love the "Yard Art" maybe you have a second career!
Craig
#346
Thanks Craig!! LOL yeah all I need is the "dualing Banjo's" from deliverance playing in the back ground hehehehehe....
got the gas set up for the welder, topside commences soon....
I am also going to swing the driveline in shortly, need to make some room yeehaaa.....
got the gas set up for the welder, topside commences soon....
I am also going to swing the driveline in shortly, need to make some room yeehaaa.....
#347
Well , I had a chance now to start this thread from the begining , and I'm really impressed ! Like I said earlier , I'm not looking forward to the underbody when I get to it .... If ever ! Good Job !
#348
I have to say Bryan it was a thankless Job and if done on your back under it like a human drop cloth , really tedious, but to me it mattered . You can anything you set your mind too Bryan, I am tackling the rear quarters next:-) thanks for the nice comments
#349
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Your opinion counts
Eddie, sorry to back track you on this thread. Brian (69442C) suggested I read your progress on the differential because I'm doing mine right now and have hit a few roadblocks.
My axle was an SA code and the carrier was an open with 2:73s. I've had it changed to a series 2 from Jim Mitschke (monzaz aka JD Race) and 3:42 ring/pinion. The work was done at a 'reputably good' shop locally. I too would have loved Jim to do my work too, but same problem as you.
When I brought the differential home, the axles had been plastic wrapped as per my request so I could clean the axle tubes. Found they did not replace the bearings/races or axle seals as requested. So they'll be doing that tomorrow.
Here's the big issue I have 'doubts' about. The back lash. I don't have a tool to measure the back lash. When I change the yoke direction from forward to reverse, there's about 1/32 - 1/16" of play and a slight clunk. Don't know if that translates to .009 on your caliper. Can you please tell me if you have a similar finding?
Here's a picture of the alignment on the ring/pinion. I think it looks good but a second opinion wouldn't hurt.
My axle was an SA code and the carrier was an open with 2:73s. I've had it changed to a series 2 from Jim Mitschke (monzaz aka JD Race) and 3:42 ring/pinion. The work was done at a 'reputably good' shop locally. I too would have loved Jim to do my work too, but same problem as you.
When I brought the differential home, the axles had been plastic wrapped as per my request so I could clean the axle tubes. Found they did not replace the bearings/races or axle seals as requested. So they'll be doing that tomorrow.
Here's the big issue I have 'doubts' about. The back lash. I don't have a tool to measure the back lash. When I change the yoke direction from forward to reverse, there's about 1/32 - 1/16" of play and a slight clunk. Don't know if that translates to .009 on your caliper. Can you please tell me if you have a similar finding?
Here's a picture of the alignment on the ring/pinion. I think it looks good but a second opinion wouldn't hurt.
#350
What do you think Eddie? I am by no means an expert on setting up gears and in fact have never done it. But to me, the way the paint or paste is showing the gear mesh doesn't look right to me. Again, I may be completely wrong. I always thought the gears should wipe most of the paste away where the gears meshed.
#351
I'll chime in as I went thru this.... and with the help of Eddie's excellent thread (& monzaz & 507olds help)...I am confident mine is OK now... but I am in no way an expert...
A light clunk is normal, but 1/32" = .031" That would be huge sloppy if that's correct. You can pick up an inexpensive dial gauge set up for ~ $20. Set it up per the manual. It took me a couple of hours of fiddling with the gauge & swapping shims to get mine perfect. I think that's the only way to know for sure....
I agree with 69442C that the pattern does look odd, but its very hard for me to tell from the pics.
..........Here's the big issue I have 'doubts' about. The back lash. I don't have a tool to measure the back lash. When I change the yoke direction from forward to reverse, there's about 1/32 - 1/16" of play and a slight clunk. Don't know if that translates to .009 on your caliper. Can you please tell me if you have a similar finding?
Here's a picture of the alignment on the ring/pinion. I think it looks good but a second opinion wouldn't hurt.
Here's a picture of the alignment on the ring/pinion. I think it looks good but a second opinion wouldn't hurt.
A light clunk is normal, but 1/32" = .031" That would be huge sloppy if that's correct. You can pick up an inexpensive dial gauge set up for ~ $20. Set it up per the manual. It took me a couple of hours of fiddling with the gauge & swapping shims to get mine perfect. I think that's the only way to know for sure....
I agree with 69442C that the pattern does look odd, but its very hard for me to tell from the pics.
#352
clunk?
Gents I am not an expert either that was my first time but I do not get a clunk at all!!! The dial indicator as mentioned is really cheap from say harbor freight etc and there is also a specification for the amount of torque required to spin the yoke, I used an ancient metered type torque wrench that has a gauge and needle type affair
#353
pattern
There are drive pattern interpretations at drive train.com it seams like the contact is even across the tooth neither too much heal or too much toe ( side to side ) and looks good from the depth top to bottom point , I am concerned about the clunk? But perhaps clunk isn't the right word? If it is indeed .031 that is way too much if you wish I am willing to take a chance and send you my indicator and set up if you give me your word you will return it .
#354
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
There are drive pattern interpretations at drive train.com it seams like the contact is even across the tooth neither too much heal or too much toe ( side to side ) and looks good from the depth top to bottom point , I am concerned about the clunk? But perhaps clunk isn't the right word? If it is indeed .031 that is way too much if you wish I am willing to take a chance and send you my indicator and set up if you give me your word you will return it .
I checked with AD and they set the back lash at .010 So if there's any problems it will go back there under warranty (1 yr). That means I have to get this sucker back in the car so it can get driven in the Spring. I also asked Brian Trick for his opinion on this and he thinks the gear contact is really good on the drive side, and the coast side is where it is because the backlash is .010 instead of .008 or .009. His suggestion was to drive it and listen for gear howl in coast. If there's howl the pinion will need to be re-shimmed. Has to wait till prolly next April.
Perhaps the clunk I'm hearing is because the differential still doesn't have fluid in it. Then again, as you suggested I may be using the wrong word to describe this.
#355
Eddie, nice progress on the project! BTW, I like the shock paint and decals. When you go to shows, you'll need to put some mirrors under there so everyone can admire your hard work and attention to detail.
#356
Allan , a lot of part stores seem to have tools you can buy , and then take them back when your done for a full refund . I'm not sure how much the indicator and set up would cost , and whether it would justify buying one .... Just an FYI
#357
Thank you sir, no progress yet caught some kind of funk head cold that put me on my back last weekend and catching up on honey do s now, plus the missus volunteered me to drive into the city today for an evening soiree I say volunteered because as I am driving that means no adult beverages for this'po boy lol will get something done tomorrow lol promise
#358
agree...
Good point Bryan and worth checking, but I am sure we do not have to twist allans arm much lol to buy a tool or two....... I seriously suspect once he sets his mind to something we will be seeing a lift going into that garage as well MAW :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
#359
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I have no issues about buying tools I need, and my wife lets me. She knows it will keep me out of her way in the house. I also know about the tool loaner program that Autozone/Part Source has. Some things I don't mind renting for free, others I don't want something someone else has messed up. I'm sure you guys know what I mean.
Eddie, I would seriously think about a lift except my garage has a low ceiling to accommodate the family room over top and the heated sub structure. Bit of a PITA, but that's ok. I have a nice new 3 1/2 ton jack that works well.
#360
You kidders!
I have no issues about buying tools I need, and my wife lets me. She knows it will keep me out of her way in the house. I also know about the tool loaner program that Autozone/Part Source has. Some things I don't mind renting for free, others I don't want something someone else has messed up. I'm sure you guys know what I mean.
Eddie, I would seriously think about a lift except my garage has a low ceiling to accommodate the family room over top and the heated sub structure. Bit of a PITA, but that's ok. I have a nice new 3 1/2 ton jack that works well.
I have no issues about buying tools I need, and my wife lets me. She knows it will keep me out of her way in the house. I also know about the tool loaner program that Autozone/Part Source has. Some things I don't mind renting for free, others I don't want something someone else has messed up. I'm sure you guys know what I mean.
Eddie, I would seriously think about a lift except my garage has a low ceiling to accommodate the family room over top and the heated sub structure. Bit of a PITA, but that's ok. I have a nice new 3 1/2 ton jack that works well.