I would be lying if I said I wasn't worried about the crank snout, I have one of Mark Remmel's billet cranks, Hopefully it holds up. I'll be using a distributor for the cam sync with a blank cap and a smart coil setup.

 

That should be a good crank, but RPM and snout loading for your belt tension will be the deciding factors.

What is your boost target and drive belt length?

The challenge of trying to control belt slip with belt tension vs. the ever-increasing resistance from the head unit will be a fight. It may be just fine if you have good wrap on both drive and driven pulleys with close idlers and a wide 10 rib belt.

There is always a cog or Gilmer setup that requires much less tension and snout loading and has zero slip. You can make them quiet by drilling air escape holes on the pulley tracks.

The cam sync should be fine. I am only seeing a degree or less of variance with a good melonized gear on my dual-sync. I am keeping an eye out for gear wear though, and I will possibly get one of the composite gears to put my mind at ease.

Watch out for rough gear teeth on your dual sync distributor drive gear. I had a few teeth that were really rough on the drive side where they had been dropped and dented in during manufacturing. I dressed those little high spots with a fine stone.

 

Belt length at this time is unknown but, it will be as short as possible. My plan is to mount the driven pulley directly above the crank pulley with only enough room to fit the tensioner. Belt wrap is a non issue as I can design in however much I want when I place the tensioner. I have talked to a couple sources (Brute Speed and Star machine) about the pulley stack prior to purchase and both confirmed that the alternator pulley should be behind the Crankshaft blower pulley....I'm with you though, I do have my doubts. As far as boost goes, The blower is completely maxed out to 62,300 RPM with the 7.8" and 3.85" pulley combo at 7500 RPM which should yield about 32psi. Unfortunately a cog drive is only possible with a F-1 or bigger blower....Bonus is that I can fit up to an F-2 in the bracket I build since it has the same mounting pattern. Thanks for the heads up on the distributor gear.

 

Arts and crafts day is done. The templates are set up for a 9.5" distance in crank and blower shaft centerlines, I'll probably add an idler pulley for good measure. Time to cut some wood (make a mess)and see how this all comes together.

 

Where did you get those valve covers from?

 

Andy Miller, he's the only one who had them in stock.

 

First version of the mock up brackets are cut and fit...Final product will be 0.750" thick 6061. I will definitely be adding an Idler pulley opposite of the tensioner...I'm sure things will move around a bit before it's ready to transfer to aluminum. Hopefully I can get into SCL before the end of the week to pick up some 6061 round stock for the standoffs.

 

Finally got a blower hanging.

Standoffs are made from 1.125" diameter 6061 round stock...They are about 0.080" long to be faced in a lathe. The tensioner needs to be clocked up about 0.200" as it hits the crank pulley ever so slightly at the rest position. I think I may add some material to the top of both brackets to add another standoff.

 

Freakin rad. I love it!

 

Badassery!

 

Thanks guys!

I think I'm going to let it hang for a few days while I drink about it...I can see a few things I can do better.

 

Had to take a break and get a few side jobs done. Here is the V 2.0 bracket, running the shortest belt possible will give me a minimum of 260* of belt wrap. I have added another stand off, 2 tensioner locations, idler pulley and trimmed up the front bracket. I believe this is what I'll transfer to aluminum.

 

Fiberglass rear bumper is assembled.

 

I got tired of looking at a ratty dashboard so I tried to make it not so ugly. I used a plastic dash cap and blended it together with expanding foam then smoothed it out with flexible filler and flocked it. Not too terrible.

Time to let the car sit idle and focus on building the shop!

 

Any updates?

 

Unfortunately no updates. The contractor started the shop about 2 months late and my garage is filled with materials to wire and finish the inside of the shop. I should be able to start wiring the first week of December. I hope to be back on the car by the end of January, I need to get the front engine and midplate mounted so I can send the engine out to be built. After that I will repair and prime the front fenders, assemble the front end and figure out what I need to do with the core support to fit the radiator.

 

Keep at ‘er!

Thanks for sharing your progress and how the reality of life when building or improving other things can slow our car progress.

Also, please feel free to share some pics of the new place!

 

No doubt, things in life can and will slow progress on projects. The upside is I will have a much more efficient place to do it which should speed things up. They are getting close, just need the bay door and insulation installed, then I can get started on the inside and build an awning over the man door. The driveway will happen in spring

 

Sweet shop!!!!

 

Thanks fleming, getting closer to move in day!

 

It does look great, no surprise there with your talents.

I am waiting until May to get my garage upgraded and repoured at the house we just bought. It is not a shop, but at least a roomy 3 car garage, so I still am blessed with that.

Happy New Year to you and yours!

 

Finally, move in day! I'm running off of an extension chord for the time being. The power company should be here in a couple weeks to change out my power meter and I'll be fully operational.

 

Great job, it all looks awesome!

cheers!

 

Ok, now back to the hotrod, please!

 

Thanks man, I hope your garage project goes well!

 

Most definitely, time to pick up where I left off. I'll get the front and mid plates mounted and send the engine off. As far as the blower goes, I'm waiting to see more info on the P1-R before I send it in for the upgrade. It sounds like it might be a better fit for me than the D1-X.

 

Mid plate is in place and ready to be attached to the frame. Now I find myself needing my welder and air compressor...the clowns from the power co. wont be here to install the new meter until the 12th.

 

Front and mid plate brackets are done, need to fab up some limiters. AN fasteners are on the way for the plates and limiters.

 

Engine travel limiters are mocked up and ready to burn in.

 

Engine is all bolted up and looks kinda cool sitting in there....better get some guts in it now.

 

Badass!!

 

Thanks Flemming!

Here I sit thinking about the cooling system packaging and plumbing. I don't think the radiator will be much of an issue, below is a picture of how I think it will be oriented. Obviously, I will have to fab up a core support...no big deal. This will provide plenty of room for a couple 14" fans producing just shy of 4000cfm total. I will be using a remote or radiator mount electric water pump with two -12 lines feeding the engine and use four -8 lines from the intake merging into a -16 line for the outlet. Due to the blower congesting the front cover area, I am thinking of having the machine shop tap and plug the holes for the stock water pump and run the feed lines to a core plug (tapped with bushings) on each side of the engine. This should work even if I fill the jackets to the bottom of the core plugs.

Next is thinking about ducking for the blower since this will need to fit, in conjunction, with the radiator. The preferred option will be to duct the "W-25" scoops into a custom carbon fiber air box at the blower inlet with a removable filter. If this doesn't work out, I can always replace the inner headlamps with bellmouths and duct them to a custom filtered air box at the blower inlet.

Can anybody shoot holes in the above ideas...if so, blast away

 

Have you considered an inline coolant pump? It would definitely make room for the blower.

 

Without a doubt it will have a Meziere remote pump, whether it's radiator mounted or in-line. As it sits, there is no room for a cover mounted pump but, there is enough space to fit a couple -12 lines to the water pump holes. Right now I'm thinking of shortening the stand offs for the blower bracket by 0.750" and plumbing the pump lines to a core plug on each side of the block.

 

Radiator and fans showed up and got the fenders cleaned off and ready to be repaired. Once I have the fenders in primer, I'll assemble to front half of the car and get the core support figured out.

 

Fenders are repaired, hopefully I'll get some time next weekend to get them in primer.

 

Nice save on the fenders, it is coming along nicely!

 

Nice work!

 

Thanks guys!

Working on finalizing the lower rear mounting points of the fenders and gaps. After that I'll fab up a tube core support. I did have to oversize the core support bushing holes to accommodate the aluminum bushings.

 

Not much has happened with the car so, I thought I would share the method I used to align the doors. I used 2 scissor jacks and 2 strips of 3/16" steel strap. The straps have a slight bend for the door to sit on. Alignment was quick and easy for one person. I do need to widen the gap at the lower door and quarter panel to be consistent.